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Hey, go easy on Decazeville. It reminded me of several bomby old mining towns in Oz. Plus it's a rugby mecca and it has a huge department store reminiscent of an Aussie Big W. It even has feral kids hanging out the front...but they're way too smooth and polite, being French 'n all. Really...
Stayed with three friends at the hotel, ate aligot like Magnara did. Really enjoyed the stay, but it was early spring and the Aubrac...so this is what greeted us when we woke:
https://slowcamino.wordpress.com/2010/06/20/sleet-relieved-by-snow/
Next morning, as you can see, was even more rugged...
I went from Le Puy to Pamplona in the cooler time of year (very cool at the start, on the Aubrac!). I used mostly single accommodation because the dormitory scene just doesn't suit me, though the common meals etc are wonderful. My guess is that if you are going at a busier time of year a phone...
Agree with all the above suggestions, and I'd add Espalion. Quite buzzy and shoppy (is that a word?) after the plateau. A flat stroll to the Romanesque church of St. Hilarion-de-Perse will give you a foretaste of Conques; and those bridges over the Lot are worth a ramble.
Bon chemin a tous
Rob
I wrote a fictional piece about the Via Podiensis as a blog entry. The plot covers the route from Le Puy to Conques. The photos are mine, though artificially antiquated to fit the yarn.
I started writing as a discipline post-Camino and post-retirement, so professional finish is out of the...
While I always try to get separate sleeping accommodation - it can be snagged various ways - I loved the shared meals, such as lentils and snags with new friends on the snowy Aubrac. Still remember special hosts, too: Trigodina, Montredon, Dubarry, Saint-Chely etc. Walking in the cool season I...
All of those places mentioned I loved. The cloister at Moissac is a big to-see. When a cloister is really good I lap it. Moissac was good for several laps. Vespers at Saint-Pierre next door!
I'm not much of a judge, but I find places like Lauzerte and Lectoure have a real finish to them...
I ended up in Pamplona after hesitating in Saint-Jean due to the risky conditions in 2010 (in late May!). Finally took the Valcarlos route just to get a whiff of Spain. I found Pamplona to be a great town and easy place to start again, which I did the next year.
Getting back to Paris from...
Agree so much, Michael. I find myself missing Le Puy and the Auvergne (especially), the people being a big part of that feeling. I have hopes of getting back there, maybe to do the Regordane or Stevenson...or both! Great part of the world to retire, no doubt.
I've had a bit to do with languages other than English and one thing I'd say to non-French speakers on the Le Puy route is to be a bit more formal than usual, even if you are speaking English. An example: remembering to say hello and goodbye even to people nearby and not just to those you are...
Margaret, that was rather fast for me. But I've been lying around all day sipping tea to recover. By the way, we're all wondering if you are going to go again this winter.
I loved the whole Chemin, even those flat bits where you walk through the south end of Les Landes. Made a nice change from non-flat bits! The people of "France Profonde" are wonderful. Agree about Miam Miam Dodo, and buying latest edition.
Just be aware that the first word learnt by a French...
The French aren't know for cornbread, but in the maize country before the Bearn there is a lot of cornbread, and delicious it is. I imagine there would be a wheaten component but it might be worth talking to the locals and the bakeries. I found the people very obliging in that part of the Landes...
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