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Hey Hel&Scot, how are ye now and how is the way treating you ?I leave today on my convoluted journey to get me to the start of my Camino. Unlike past trips where we simply set off and went where the fancy took us, this time I am coordinating with other family members as we each make our own different way to Santiago and on to Finisterre.
I'm tired before I even start, organising care for stock, the farm, aged parents, my dog and house. I thought it was bad enough when a giant gum tree landed on the farrowing sheds and had to be cut up before I left. But today I had to deal with emergency water systems repair after someone drove over the irrigation pipes and ripped them out of the field. Then dealing with a grumpy boar who can't understand why he has to wait another fortnight before being turned out with the sows. Still I will soon leave all of this behind me and just focus on carrying enough water to get me to the next village.
Given early posts it looks like there is a veritable invasion in the Vdlp thus September, I may see you out there. I'll be the one trying to smuggle piglets into their pack to diversify my farms stud.
Barcelona is very temperate, they say it's rained a lot here recently and the heat has gone. Last time we walked the Vdlp in Sept Oct it was also ok, hot out of Seville but got frosty around Salamanca and wet in Gallicia, looks to be similar this year.Hope you enjoy the Estrella and foot soak!
Starting from Mérida next week!
I phoned the Embalse this morning and he said they are open. Would be great to hear it is.
Would you have time to post bits and pieces of your VdLP? I would love to hear what sort of weather it is as it looked still quite hot last week?
Elaine
I leave today on my convoluted journey to get me to the start of my Camino. Unlike past trips where we simply set off and went where the fancy took us, this time I am coordinating with other family members as we each make our own different way to Santiago and on to Finisterre.
I'm tired before I even start, organising care for stock, the farm, aged parents, my dog and house. I thought it was bad enough when a giant gum tree landed on the farrowing sheds and had to be cut up before I left. But today I had to deal with emergency water systems repair after someone drove over the irrigation pipes and ripped them out of the field. Then dealing with a grumpy boar who can't understand why he has to wait another fortnight before being turned out with the sows. Still I will soon leave all of this behind me and just focus on carrying enough water to get me to the next village.
Given early posts it looks like there is a veritable invasion in the Vdlp thus September, I may see you out there. I'll be the one trying to smuggle piglets into their pack to diversify my farms stud.
John, not sure if you stayed in Aljucén, but if you did, did you notice if Albergue Anna Lena was still open?Hey Hel&Scot, how are ye now and how is the way treating you ?
I am in Casar de Caceres, relaxing
John.
I am currently soaking my foot in a bucket and drinking Estrella after a 27km march around Barcelona visiting the usual haunts. .....
Hi Lainey,John, not sure if you stayed in Aljucén, but if you did, did you notice if Albergue Anna Lena was still open?
I have been trying to contact Anna, as I am hoping to stay there on the 21st, but no reply. A couple of previous comments have suggested she may be closed? I know she has closed the Casa Rural La Boveda but thought the Albergue might still be going despite a bit of a spat (I think) between her and the newer private Albergue Rio?
Hey Lainainy, I did not stay there. I stayed in the alburgue near to Las Vagas bar/restaurant Casa Antonia I think it is called. It was grand. A big fiesta was taking place while I was there as it was Extremadura day, good funJohn, not sure if you stayed in Aljucén, but if you did, did you notice if Albergue Anna Lena was still open?
I have been trying to contact Anna, as I am hoping to stay there on the 21st, but no reply. A couple of previous comments have suggested she may be closed? I know she has closed the Casa Rural La Boveda but thought the Albergue might still be going despite a bit of a spat (I think) between her and the newer private Albergue Rio?
Thanks Lauri, chances are it might be closed all together. I will report back when I am there.Hi Lainey,
It was open in June but barely. Not much in the way of upkeep, I was told. Go to the main bar in town when you get there, across from the church, and they will know because they had the keys.
Thanks for that, sounds like a good night!Hey Lainainy, I did not stay there. I stayed in the alburgue near to Las Vagas bar/restaurant Casa Antonia I think it is called. It was grand. A big fiesta was taking place while I was there as it was Extremadura day, good fun
Hi Laney, I am now in Carcabosa and I stayed in Grimaldo last night. I enjoyed it, lovley quiet village, one pilgrim was traveling with a horse and Small buggy and is going to Santiago ! Nice hospitilaro and clean alburgue.Thanks for that, sounds like a good night!
Would you do me another favour, if you plan staying in Alcantara at the Embalse, just confirm that it´s open? I did ring the other day and they said it was.
thanks and buen camino
Thank you so much the info about Embalse!Hi Laney, I am now in Carcabosa and I stayed in Grimaldo last night. I enjoyed it, lovley quiet village, one pilgrim was traveling with a horse and Small buggy and is going to Santiago ! Nice hospitilaro and clean alburgue.
I text a guy who I walked with for a few days and he stayed in Embalse last night and he enjoyed it. So it’s definatly open
Thanks Lainey, I am really enjoying the VDLP. Low 30’s at the moment, lots of water needed.Thank you so much the info about Embalse!
Sounds as though you are really enjoying your iterinary. Hope the weather has cooled down a bit. Carcabosa is on my list of places as well. Good luck and keep posting!
we are staying 2 nights so my daughter can visit the sites .
Phew, have made it to Merida, was still 30 degrees at 8pm as we headed up the hill to the parador, confession as we are staying 2 nights so my daughter can visit the sites we felt we better leave the alburgue beds to those who have walked.
@Saint Mike II, I use to work for the breweries so I usually check the label and date stamp, but I promise this thread will not be overtaken by a running cervesa commentary.
Hahaha...never mind that you can walk the legs of of most everyone, Laurie...And as a retired old person, I got the whole shebang for 7.5€
Thanks for that great bit of information Laurie. I only knew that there were many sites to see in Mérida but I didnt know about the combined ticket. Now on my "to remember" list!Since you are experienced with the Vdlp, you may already know this, but your comment prompted me to let others know that you can buy a combined ticket to visit the Alcazar (castle), Roman theater and amphitheater, the Casa Mitreo (a villa) and a couple of other sites.
It's a good deal pricewise, but one of its most valuable aspects is that you can buy the pass at any of the sites and then skip the line at the Roman Theater, which is the only one that ever gets lines. When I was there this year, the lines were blocks and blocks long to get into the theater. I had bought my pass in the Alcazaba (right near the roman bridge and very much worth a visit), so I skipped right by those crowds.
And as a retired old person, I got the whole shebang for 7.5€
Hope you enjoy every minute there, Hel, lucky you to be with your precious hija! Buen camino, Laurie
Short day today as it was 37'C so started at dawn, 7.30 sun up half an hour later but we're at Aljucen before the heat of the day set in. Passed the newly built alburgue in El Carrascaleo locals say it is open now but not the cafe that is supposed to service it. New alburgue at Aljucen looks good and is handily located opposite the new bar, by the shop and up the road to the Hogar. Good to see services improved since last time, don't miss the Therma, they offer pilgrim discount and meals, lovely green garden with a pool... I have had to break it to Fran that not every place on the Vdlp has a pool.[/QUOT
@hel&scott , can you use the Therma and restaurant if you are not booked at the hotel? I am going to be there on a Friday but they don't have any rooms. Is it called the Aqua Libera?
Amazing sunset and thunderstorm last night, heavy rain cooled things down to the 20s, but it was back up to the 30s for the slog into Valdesalor. Glad to see we don't have to sleep in the mayoral chamber, but in there damn fine alburgue complete with washing machine.
May look at it for an evening meal, just back from a tour of the sites and had lunch at he Kabab place in the shady side of the square down from the information centre, cheap as chips, actually very good chips, and for vegetarian sick of plain lettuce it's good to have some falafel and garlic sauce on the greens for a change. Weather cooler just climbing to 32 in the afternoon.If you are planning to stop and rest and luxuriate a bit in Caceres, I just want to pass on @SabineP's recommendation for a place to eat. It's Minerva, right smack dab in the Plaza Mayor. In my experience, it's hard to get good food in a plaza mayor, usually it's pretty mediocre and includes a charge for the view (which is understandable). But I thoroughly enjoyed a long Sunday lunch outside in the square here. All those little kids in their Sunday best, it was just wonderful. No pressure to move on from anyone -- the waiter who took my order was sure I wouldn't be able to down the entire tapas menú, which was pretty hefty for only 16 €. But I had been walking a lot the previous few days and told him I was sure I could handle it. The last course was some meat part that I didn´t eat, but the rest was delicious! They had a very good looking menú del día, too.
When I am home I don't eat any cos lettuce because I get so much of it in Spain! Also thankfully cos lettuce doesn't grow well in my part of Ireland - yippee!
Any recommended "should see" places in Caceres?
... still mulling over tomorrow's options regarding the Caparra arch.
Wow, I didn't remember you were heading out so soon. Best of everything @laineylainey, now you need your own "live" thread.@hel&scott thank for your updates.
I have just got to Seville, so Mérida tomorrow - can't wait!
Gosh it's a bit warm here even at midnight. Fermanagh was a tad chillier when I left this morning.
Today we were rewarded by the sight of a family of imperial Eagles, we have seen them circling higher and higher in the air, but today they were on the ground next to us, amazing to see just how big they are.
We have made it to the arch at Caparra, currently having a siesta in the shade, will walk on when it gets cooler. Today Fran found a giant eagle feather, it's as tall as her pack, so now her Camino name is Walks with Eagles.Much more exciting that what I am mulling over. So where are you today?
Mail your surplus stuff to Salamanca, it is hot this year and you can pick up the cooler stuff from the correos when you get ther.Hope good company tonight helps ease the headache. In Mérida myself and can't believe how hot it is. Wish I hadn't brought my sleeping bag!!
Literally on the monument, we arrived just after 2pm when the interpretation centre was closed and had to wait till 5pm for it to reopen so we could get more water to continue, had a siesta and refuelled but by them we decided 30kms was enough for the day so bedded down for the night in a quiet spot on the ruins, didn't get thrown out and didn't leave any rubbish behind, meant we could walk on the next day 30kms to Banos.When you say "slept out", where out?
Sorry to hear that Hel...feet are not happy.
And snakes, by the roadside.But...bats? eagles?? On top of everything else?
Wonderful.
Continued buen camino to you both!
That does it. Now I am envious.And snakes, by the roadside.
Oh my...one of those camino adventures...but you have a lovely sense of humor about it all - I hope the infection heals quickly! It hurts my feet to think of it...the toes remember all too well how that feels.so here I am, looking like a mummy, entertaining tourists in the garden outside the alburgue. Many thanks to the folks at Fuenterroble and to Fran who has carried her gimp of a mother across town. Time for empanadas and a rest.
I have found a very good bottle of Scotts favourite red wine and it is doing wonders on the pain killing front. I have also told my daughter that if I ever mention going on another Camino again she had just better take a hammer to my toes and remind me of how it feels.It hurts my feet to think of it...the toes remember all too well how that feels.
Ouch. It's a very good thing for wine, and Salamanca.I have found a very good bottle of Scotts favourite red wine and it is doing wonders on the pain killing front. I have also told my daughter that if I ever mention going on another Camino again she had just better take a hammer to my toes and remind me of how it feels.
It is closed... I was looking forward to a meal there but he has gone on holiday.... Oh well, we did get some nice biscuits and a coffee with the hosts of the lovely alburgue at Villar Farfon earlier in the day and set the world to rights in a long winded discussion.If you still have any appetite and if it's still open (I read somewhere that it might not be) Me Gusta Comer, opposite the albergue, is really outstanding. Michelin "bib gourmand" standard cooking and a most engaging chef who not only cooks up a treat, but also broadly shared my politics, and shared a carafe of wine with me while we put the world to rights (I was the only customer that November).
Thanks @Kanga, I have hobbled across the road to the Hostal where I am being well looked after, which helps a lot. Looking across the hills as the train cut through and the progress of the AVE I am reminded of the great hiking we did through here and am sad to miss it, but glad Fran can strike out with her long legs without being slowed by her gimpy mother. As you say, not much else to do but rest and read.Oh dear, I know that feeling. While you wait for Fran, I prescribe a nice place to sleep, somewhere comfortable to sit and watch the world, a glass of slightly sweet red wine, and a good book downloaded onto your smartphone. Tell yourself it is a holiday!
No I haven't disappeared. I have made it to Ourense, dignosis of my foot has confirmed I have pulled my Archillies tendon. Not what one wants in the hills of th Sanbres. Fran has left me soaking in the thermal springs while she makes the final push into Saniago, I will take the train to Santiago to meat with the other family members congregating there. The waters are working there magic and I am hopeful that I may hobble onto Finisterre which is our target this trip... Some might say deluded. We will see. I am learning patience and fate has reminded me that life doesn't alway work out the way you want it to.
Well it was more complicated then expected, but I eventually made it into Santiago, into Muxia and Finisterre. My Camino is over. My burden has been laid down. Now maybe I can recover.
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