Undermanager
Veteran Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Madrid (x2)
VDLP
Salvador
Primitivo
Finisterra / Muxia
Lana
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It's worth a quick visit but isn't overly thrilling.
Thanks so much, Undermanager! This is a great help.Day 24 - Borres - Montefurado - Lago - Berducedo - 28kms
The weather forecast was fine for today, although there was a threat of rain or thunderstorms in the afternoon. I left at 6.00am with a few others to take advantage of the cool temperature and good walking conditions. Today is generally a pretty hard day, with a lot of walking up and down and some of it very steep. Walking poles would help. It's very well marked along the whole stage, with many sections marked every 20 metres or so. Even in difficult conditions, it would be hard to get lost. By 11.00am, it was really hot. I took two litres of water, which was just about okay. If it was much hotter or you left later, you should certainly have no less than two litres of water plus a lunch. There are stunning views all day long on this stage so have the camera at the ready!
From Borres, it took about three hours to the top. It's a fairly hard slog at times but quite okay. It was 11.45am when I stopped at the pretty collection of houses and old pilgrims' hospital in Montefurado for lunch. There is a fountain here as well as being a pretty place to rest. From here, it's uphill for about 10 minutes again and then a long, mostly downhill section, which is both steep and welcome. Eventually, you come to Lago, which has a bar. I didn't stop but pressed on for another hour to get to Berducedo at 1.45pm, checking in to the municipal albergue, which is the first building on the right. It only has 12 beds, is basic but perfectly fine. There are a couple of Spanish pilgrims who are really loud and have no concept of eight other pilgrims resting after a hard day. There is a well-stocked shop if you walk further down the road and turn right, just before the bar.
This has been a great day. I'm really glad the weather turned out to be fine and it wasn't too hot for most of the day and didn't rain. Looking forward to more adventures tomorrow!
I enjoyed Bodenaya last year. I remember that we were asked "as a family" to decided when would all get up the next morning. I can see this wouldn't suit everyone, but it seemed to go well with the place and its philosophy. I remember nice solid fuel stove too. And very enjoyable meal.Day 22 San Juan de Villapanada - Cornellana - Salas - Bodenaya - 30kms
The albergue is excellent and interesting. It got quickly full whilst I was there and with good reason, although if you do arrive and can't get in, there are two more albergues just a kilometre or two further along the Camino in La Espina so all is not lost. The albergue is set just before the start of La Estonia in the countryside and has a strong 'family of pilgrims' philosophy, is by donation only, dinner and breakfast are taken together 'as a family' and even washing your clothes is done by the albergue! It's a tidy, clean, interestingly designed place run by a couple of nice guys and would thoroughly recommend that you try to make the effort to plan your Camino so you can stay there. Be prepared for some long, intensive listening sessions delivered by the host, though. This may not be what you want if you are very hungry and tired! If you lack resilience and patience, consider walking on to La Espina!
Bearing in mind that Santa Eulalia is VERY closed on Sunday!!I would suggest walking the Camino Verde from Lugo to Sobrado (on the Norte).Then alternate route from Boimorto to St Irene or to Pedrouza. If you take the Verde don`t miss the ruins of Santa Eulalia de Boveda. Information and links in the Camino Primitivo section
Buen camino
I stayed in Casa Benigno tel no 982375028 or 982375152.I would ring ahead and reserve a room.Also had dinner and breakfast in the bar.Going from Lugo to Friol, where did you stay in Friol?
Still enjoying every step of your way, even though I am visiting Liverpool at the moment. It's a shame about the weather. I remember the views making up for a rather hard stretch. That downhill through the forest seemed to go on for everDay 25 - Berducedo - Grandes de Salime - Castro - 27kms
Then it's through a large forest all the way until you are standing on the dam of Rio Navia. The route down is long and can be steep and slippy and I didn't get to the dam until 9.15am. Walking poles really helped. If you have never tried them, buy a cheap pair, read up or watch a YouTube video on how to use them and why they help and then go and walk down the steepest, muddiest hill you can find, and up as well. Then you'll see how they help, then buy a decent pair. I'm using these, which I can recommend:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01826FAXU/?tag=casaivar-21
The views were great at times, when the mist cleared for five minutes. Most of the time, however, you couldn't see anything. It was also one of those days when you found out just how good or bad your wet weather gear was! My jacket is definitely on its last outing although my over-trousers are still doing their job well. A tried and tested top quality rucksack cover is also a must.
From the dam, it's about 6kms to Grandas de Salime, all uphill and mostly along a road. 15 minutes from the dam was a hotel where you could get a coffee and an over-priced can of drink. There was no food in the hotel for breakfast today but others I spoke to later reported expensive snacks. I didn't see any other places to get a drink, no shops and no water fountains. I just put my headphones on, got my head down and marched all the way to Grandas de Salime, stopping to admire the magnificent views when possible. The Camino goes off the road at times, but you can also decide to stay on the road as I did, if the weather is grim. I arrived a Grandes de Salime at about 11.15am.
Glad you stayed there. Exactly how I would describe it, a gem!Day 26 - Castro - A Fonsagrada - 21kms
This albergue is another shining gem and worth heading for. Lots of luxury with plenty of everything you could need and all for only €10. It is on the Camino in the centre and is well signed so you can't miss it.
Yes I would agree with @Me Fein . I am not sure what other options there are. It is easy to find - you follow the main road into the town and near the bridge on your right is Benigno. It is a big enough place. I arrived on a Sunday afternoon and had not booked ahead and was a bit disconcerted to find it locked and shuttered. More in hope than expectarion I rang the number on the front door, and said I was there. Two minutes later the door was opened from within and I was welcomed as if an old friend. I was the only person staying that night. They opened the restaurant just for me and produced a huge meal. It was strange on the Monday morning to find it was a 'normal' hotel and and that people were having breakfast in the bar.Going from Lugo to Friol, where did you stay in Friol?
Hmmmm. Was going to stop in Lugo and head down to Portugal for a few days, but this might be a game-changer. Will hope to hear how the merge into the big flow is for you, and thank you for taking us along with you!Day 30 - Friol - Sobrado - 26kms
There is a shop / cafe with a enough basics to get fed and for breakfast a few doors down from the Pension in Friol. Having said that, I went to a local restaurant and had a meal with too much beer and wine and got to bed later than normal. That meant a later start today, at 7.00am.
It was quite cool and very misty for the first few hours but then the day turned very warm and sunny. The way from Friol was fairly well signed but I needed to use the gps track and map on a number of occasions. Some of the tracks were very muddy indeed today and I found myself using road alternatives on two occasions as I got miffed at battling though cowshit- filled muddy waterlogged tracks. Walking poles are a must here, to help find the firmer ground ahead. Apart from that, the walk is really pretty. You go through forests, countryside and lots of villages, although you will find no water fountains, cafes, bars, shops or any other facilities for the first 20kms, until you get to Meson Suso. Shortly before this, you join the Camino Norte and will start seeing the familiar yellow arrows again. The walk isn't particularly hard today so a nice stage all in all.
The monastery in Sobrado is absolutely brilliant, as is the albergue, which is clean, well-resourced and a great place to stay, costing €6. I arrived at 1.45pm, just as it was locking up. Between 1.45pm and 4.30pm, the albergue in the monastery is closed, and if you are already registered and inside, you can either stay locked up inside until 4.30pm, or leave but not get back in until 4.30pm. I decided to stay inside, was the only one and had a great time wandering around the highly spooky monastery on my own. Sobrado itself is very pretty and has banks, bars, shops, hotels and a couple of albergues. Don't forget to attend Vespers at 7.00pm On the dot. It's in a room up the stairs close to the albergue dormitory. Excellent!
I'm not sure yet but will probably just head to an albergue in Santa Irene tomorrow, then Santiago on Wednesday, before heading off to Finisterre and Muxia the day after that. I need to tape up a sore little toe at the moment. I've been using Leukopor tape, which you can get from any Spanish pharmacy. Just wrap short lengths around the bits that are sore and it helps keep them from rubbing against other toes or your shoe.
The Camino Verdi was an excellent couple of days, very enjoyable, pretty, quiet and interesting. Use a map and a gps track for added reassurance, though, as it is not always clear which path to take, and you may need to skirt around waterlogged muddy tracks.
Getting to that point in your trip and not wanting it to finish is fantastic. When things come together, there is a certain indefinable magic.Day 31 - Sobrado - O Pedrouzo - 37kms
Very happy days at the moment but not looking forward to the walking finishing! Really in the zone at the moment, despite my shoes falling apart and consequently, a few blisters appearing.
Can I chip in - even though I usually avoid (now) discussion of boots/bags/bedbugsThat was my take on that last bit into Santiago also - quite a slog. I know you're occupied, but if you have a second after you're settled in for the night, could you tell me if you saw anyone doing OK on the Primitivo in trail runners? I've been planning to wear a high-quality pair I've trained in, but am hearing that everyone is in hiking BOOTS on the Primitivo, and that even hiking shoes are causing problems. I have only 11 days left until return and am having trouble finding the size/width hiking boot that I need locally to have a little time to break them in. My good hiking shoes from last Camino are unlikely to survive another one. Which kind of shoe did you hike in? Thanks very much and will be eager to hear how your walk to Finisterre and Muxia is. Beth
Thanks so much! Yours look similar to my old hiking shoes. I wore them 26.5K in the mountains today to make sure they still fit, so if you did well in yours, that's good news. Sounds like your shoes deserve a good sendoff - take pictures:0)!I used these:
http://www.gooutdoors.co.uk/bodmin-low-iv-weathertite-p352306
and will buy another pair on my return, one size and a bit bigger than I normally take. They have been the best walking shoe by far. I broke them in before using them for a few months. I have walked in expensive leather walking boots before but wouldn't again. They get your feet too hot IMO, which leads to sweat and blisters, and they are far heavier than walking shoes. I also wear ankle length tights under everyday normal socks. A few weeks prior to leaving, and daily on the Camino, I rubbed this stuff into my feet:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000KOQ85M/?tag=casaivar-21
For blister treatment, I have been using Compeed patches (available anywhere) and Leukopor tape (any Spanish pharmacy).
I've had a good run so far, with few problems. My current shoes are falling apart, but they had two months wear prior to leaving and have had 5 weeks of daily pounding and have been over three mountain ranges, so no complaints. I'm looking forward to burning them in Finisterre!
Those look like real hiking shoes too, so I'll just stick with what I've got and relax. Thank you so much! 25K running??? Holy camoly, Tim.Can I chip in - even though I usually avoid (now) discussion of boots/bags/bedbugs?
I wore my usual trail-runner-y type of things last year with no problems on Primitivo. I think they were North Face Hedgehogs. They look like running shoes on top, but with stronger vibram soles, but definitely a shoe and not a boot. And since then for 3 outings I have worn Keen walking shoes. Similar in style to what @Undermanager mentions. I haven't worn boot-like boots for years now and have no temptation to go back to them. They don't last forever.....but I look out for them in sales and usually have a pair spare. One advantage I find is you can use them straight out of the box. No wearing in or running in at all if you buy the identical model. Having said which I changed from North Face to Keen's about a year ago.
Same rule for me for running shoes, I never change the model and can run 25k in new shoes straight out of the box. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it"!!
I used these:
http://www.gooutdoors.co.uk/bodmin-low-iv-weathertite-p352306
and will buy another pair on my return, one size and a bit bigger than I normally take. They have been the best walking shoe by far. I broke them in before using them for a few months. I have walked in expensive leather walking boots before but wouldn't again. They get your feet too hot IMO, which leads to sweat and blisters, and they are far heavier than walking shoes. I also wear ankle length tights under everyday normal socks. A few weeks prior to leaving, and daily on the Camino, I rubbed this stuff into my feet:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000KOQ85M/?tag=casaivar-21
For blister treatment, I have been using Compeed patches (available anywhere) and Leukopor tape (any Spanish pharmacy).
I've had a good run so far, with few problems. My current shoes are falling apart, but they had two months wear prior to leaving and have had 5 weeks of daily pounding and have been over three mountain ranges, so no complaints. I'm looking forward to burning them in Finisterre!
There isn't a shop in Vilaserio anymore? Last year it was opened in a first house when you turn left from the tarmac road down the hill to the village.Albergue A Nosa Casa is fine, although at €12, more than I was used to paying for a bed in an albergue. The only real issue here is that there are no shops or other facilities near by, although the albergue has a perfectly good bar and restaurant attached to it. The weather forecast is not good for tomorrow and I want to get as close to Finisterre as possible. Let's see what happens ....
That's exactly my set-off hour, 8am...I set off at a very late 8.00am and took my time walking round the coast to a Finisterre. Cee was a nice enough town but around the coast another kilometre or two is Corcubion, a very pretty fishing village with a few albergues and pensions and would probably be a much better option. It is much smaller and with all the facilities you would need but oozes the charm that Cee lacks.
That's my picture perfect every year.Exactly what I did every time around. I do like the view over Cee beach and I'm always amazed by the Fisterra one, but at Sardineiro that's just perfect. I'd buy you a beer there and politely asked you to be quiet...village and beach of Sardineiro de Abaixo, where I stopped for a coffee and sat and gazed at the sea. It was very quiet and absolutely wonderful, watching and hearing the waves and seagulls. A picture perfect place with a few pensions, so would make a really nice bolthole for a night or two.
10 seconds later, I had three blank passports in my hand and was running out the door in case it was a mistake.
I've enjoyed your trip, Undermanager, and hope you'll link your Japan Camino someday. Great information in your posts, and fun to read as well.Day 37 - Muxia - Santiago by bus
The hostel last night was okay, although I'm not a fan of mixed toilets and showers, where the doors have massive gaps at the top and bottom. With hindsight, I wouldn't stay there again, but would choose the very first albergue as you enter Muxia, Albergue de Costa. The views over the sea are spectacular, they have cheap singles if you need your own space and the only compromise is you have a few hundred metres to walk into Muxia. A couple of people I spoke to raved about the sea view and great atmosphere.
I had about 5 hours to kill before the 2.30pm bus to Santiago, so drank coffee, chatted to some people, walked up a hill, round the harbour and to the church. Then had a snooze. 5 hours later, I was on the bus to Santiago. With all the thousands of tourists they get each year, you'd think they would have a Bus Stop sign where you catch the bus! It can't be that hard to think through how difficult it is for some non-Spanish speaking people to work out where to catch the bus. I had half a dozen people ask me if this was where the bus to Santiago was! There is absolutely no indication, except for others milling about and some yellowing timetables in the window of the Night and Day cafe.
Two hours later, I was in my hotel in Santiago and on the way to the Pilgrims Office, to see if I could get a blank Credential for next time. A miracle happened! I walked in, said I needed a blank credential (thanks for the advice, Faith) and was directed through the ridiculous queue for the certificates to the door on the right. 10 seconds later, I had three blank passports in my hand and was running out the door in case it was a mistake. I never in a million years believed the Spanish could organise a desk just for blank credentials! Well done Spain! Mind you, some of the poor sods in the very very very long queue didn't look so chuffed. The single spotty bored twenty something at his desk adding names and signing the certificates, in between checking his mobile phone of course, seemed to be on a go-slow for a bet. I think he was winning. The Camino industry must be worth hundreds of millions of Euros to Spain, going directly into the pockets of Spanish families, and this is how the pilgrims are treated right at the end, queuing up for hours instead of being out and about enjoying Santiago (and spending money). It was exactly the same the previous visits I made so didn't bother collecting a certificate this time.
On my return to the hotel, I met Peter the German again, who was on the last day of his holiday, and grabbed some wine and nibbles. It's back to the hotel, throw open the windows to let the sun in and chill. It's time to go home tomorrow and I'm tired. I'll be getting the airport bus in the morning and will be in London a few hours later.
It's been a great trip and I've met some really amazing people. The Camino, with the exception of the Frances stages, were fantastic. I hope someone has found this blog useful and helpful (as I found reading others' blogs when planning my trip) and you'll write your own account if you do the same trip. This is the last entry, so thanks for reading. I'm off to research the 88 temples Camino in Japan now .....
Buen Camino
Undermanager
There was no places to stay in between?? 36 km, would be too far for me
Day 9 Puente Duero - Simancas - Cigunuela - Wamba - Penaflor de Hornija - 26kms
I had coffee and toast at the albergue for a very reasonable €2 and left at 8.00am. There really is no reason to stay in this drab and uninteresting town apart from the slightly wacky albergue, especially when Simancas is only a further 6kms away. It took an hour and a half to get there along a dirt track that ran beside the road. The bridge you cross as you enter the hilltop town is great but gets better as you climb higher. Take note of the fantastic cafe at the far end of the bridge with hundreds of chairs - ideal for hot evenings. Climb up to the town and relax in the lovely Plaza Mayor, explore the medieval lanes, the castle and museum and of course, the church. There are cheap hostels here but no albergue but it is definitely worth a stay overnight.
The walk from Simancas to Cigunuela is just fantastic, along a valley with high rolling hills either side. It's quite an ancient area, with a stone monument you can visit a short distance outside of Simancas. It's about one kilometre off the Camino and well signposted. Cigunuela had little of note that I found and quickly passed through, on to Wamba.
The walk to Wamba is along a dirt track, flat, warm and a fantastic walk. The countryside is so big here. I had music blasting out as I strode along the dirt track and could have kept going for miles. Wamba appeared after about an hour and a half. This small pretty village has working water fountains as you enter the village, and a few bars. I had lunch in the only open one, which is on the left down a small side road - follow the Camino arrows and keep your eyes peeled - you can't miss it. It has a really nice seating area at the back and did a brilliant range of great sandwiches. After half an hour, I climbed out of Wamba and walked more flat dirt track in glorious weather all the way to Penaflor de Hornija.
This place is another wonderful Spanish hilltop village. The village is really pretty as you approach it in the distance, but as you get closer, you will see that you have to descend and climb up two small valleys. I got the albergue keys by asking in the bar a few buildings down from the fruit shop, near the working water fountains. The albergue is big, clean, has beds for 8 people, a shower and toilet, fully functioning kitchen and a drying area. It's really nice and a bargain for €3. The bar does do food and the fruit shop is there, but you might want to bring some supplies just in case they aren't open and also for breakfast the next day. I didn't see any other facilities in the village. As it happened, I did eat in Bar Hornija and the dinner was fantastic. If you walk around the outskirts of the village in the evening, you'll get some fantastic views and great photos. It's a stunning place to stay.
Really looking forward to tomorrow. It should be even warmer than today and more blue sky. I love the big blue skies in Spain!
Thanks jp flavin, I will check it out!There are places to stay in the Pueblo's in between. Just look at the www.gronze.com guide
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