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Thanks, it helped me pushing forward today as I desperately looked for accomodation. I told myself: if I don't find anything, it will at least be a funny story to share on the Forum!
Yup. No more bugs after that. And I know you’re going on the Ebro after Gallur but I have to say the Castellano-Aragones is ESTUPENDO. So put it on your list!I remember Gronze or Guidebook saying something about a train station, yes. But I also knew the Camino would follow the river. So I walked back the same way I came the day before and continued along the river walk. There were arrows everywhere, and granite-like mojones with the shell regularly along the way. So they must have brushed up the waymarking in recent years.
Did you get rid of the bed bugs after Zaragoza??
Brava to Abuela!
I'm impressed. You're moving right along, already in Tudela. It sounds like getting there was a series of head-scratchers. JP, just ahead of you, didn't mention that at all, so who knows? Maybe wrong day, wrong time?
And it looks gorgeous, especially that amazing portico.
Turns out it's famous:
Do they have a stork cam streaming on the internet?
Yeah! Alfaro is a nice town. Although when I was there it was a Sunday and quieter than quiet.
Hope the hostal is clean and decent? Just read some recent revieuws and the opinions seem to vary. Anyway, when I stayed there it was very acceptable and staff was extremely helpful.
Really like the poem.
Currently in Alcanadre, no albergue or other accomodation. The people in the bar La Unión are telling me there is an albergue in the next pueblo: Arrúbal. But that is 13 kms from here. At least I am getting closer to Logroño...
I see la Casa Azul de Raymonm y la Asun
as a place to stay there?
In Alcanadre.
View attachment 103904
Maybe ask also if there is anything in Lodosa. It's backtracking a bit and on the other side of the river, but much closer. I don't see anything, but someone closer at hand might know better.
The storks had settled on the roof of the Colegiata, the cathedral-like church at the main square.
Description: El albergue-hostal Villa Lodosa es propiedad de los hermanos Zubiri Castillo, Juan Pedro, Alberto, Mari y Eduardo. La familia (propietaria de Talleres Zubiri de Peralta) adquirió un chalé de 800 m2 , construido en 1991 y que está situado en el número 147
I am so sorry to hear the albergue in Alcanadre is closed. It is a 5* luxury one, and the kind alcaldesa came round in the evening and opened up the church for me. It`s not that exciting, but the hexagonal tower (complete with storks` nest, claro) was fun, and the interior included a glorious ?12th century Romanesque font from an earlier church on the site. Some claim it was near Alcanadre that Don Quixote and Sancho Panza first saw the Ebro, "y el verle fue de gran gusto a don Quijote, porque contempló y miró en él la amenidad de sus riberas, la claridad de sus aguas, el sosiego de su curso y la abundancia de sus líquidos cristales..."Currently in Alcanadre, no albergue or other accomodation. The people in the bar La Unión are telling me there is an albergue in the next pueblo: Arrúbal. But that is 13 kms from here. At least I am getting closer to Logroño...
I headed north up the canal de Castilla, passing crayfish-mad Herrera de Pisuerga and joining the Olvidado at lovely (biscuit-scented) Aguilar del Campoo.There are all sorts of possibilities from the meseta northwards:
Drop your napolitanas and stop searching! I am inside the municipal albergue in Arrúbal now! Thanks SabineP: had I read your post before leaving Alcanadre, it would have reassured me... But I had no idea about the status of the albergue when I got to Arrúbal, so it was a pleasant surprise that it was open!Ah so sorry to hear! You might already have the link but here it is again.
I see la Casa Azul de Raymonm y la Asun
as a place to stay there?
In Alcanadre.
Maybe ask also if there is anything in Lodosa. It's backtracking a bit and on the other side of the river, but much closer. I don't see anything, but someone closer at hand might know better.
Ooops, sorry, I see from my notes that the 5* albergue (arguably the best between the Mediterranean and Logroño, and only 5€) was at Arrúbal, not Alcanadre, as was the hexagonal church tower and the font.
Train, train!!!I have decided to postpone the Camino Olvidado to another year, and aim straight for Ponferrada and the Camino de Invierno. I guess one can go there by bus, or train. We'll see.
The Logroño to Burgos bus would likely be simpler; am I detecting a hint that the train ride is visually stunning?Train, train!!!
I did that a few years ago and it was a stupendous journey:
Logroño-Haro-MdEbro-Pancorbo-Burgos...then on towards Santiago. Wow, wow, wow. (Sit on the right side of the train for the Pancorbo part...you can wave to your ghost of Via de Bayona past...)
Congratulations! It has been such a joy following you.
The daily distances you covered were impressive. I am sure I am not the only one here who admires your writing style and humour.
You stay at Calle Laurel! You lucky duck! You " must " go to Bar Angel next door and have a pintxo ( mushrooms ). Go!
Rest well! Enjoy the trainride.
Looking forward to your updates.
Buen Camino!
Yes it just dawned upon me that this is the calle Laurel that Laurie mentioned above, regarding her gastronomical exploits. It is just that... the streets were alive a few hours ago, now everything is shut down. It is Sunday afternoon! But yes, something must be open. I will give it a try.
The Logroño to Burgos bus would likely be simpler; am I detecting a hint that the train ride is visually stunning?
Stunning or not, I take the bus between 2 and 9 am... It will be dark outside so I won't see anything!
I have taken the night bus before, for example Mérida - Ponferrada, so I am used to travelling by night. My only concern is to find the right bus in a bus station in a city I don't know... Stressful...
Well done BP! I have been looking forward to your daily updates and I wish you a buen camino!Day 17: Arrúbal- Logroño, 19 kms
I am not used to being alone in such a large, empty building as a municipal albergue. It was kind of spooky. I was waiting for the usual group of cyclists to burst into the dorm with their headlamps at 11:30, but nothing happened. I decided to sleep in (until 06:00 in the morning; a deadly sin) since I only had about 19 kms to walk today.
The Camino continues from the church where the albergue is located. There are only 4 easy kms to the next pueblo: Agoncillo (first picture). But no bars were open since it was early, and Sunday morning.
After Agoncillo there is conflicting waymarking. An arrow points under the bridge, while a modern sign (the "traffic sign"; blue background, the silhouette of a pilgrim...) urges you to turn to the right, next to the train tracks. I followed the modern sign, which was perhaps not a good idea. It took me for a stroll near the airport of Logroño, then back over the train tracks. I was walking into the small town of Recajo on the highway N-232 where the cars angrily honked at me to get out of the way. This irritated me since there were modern Camino signs everywhere along the road; I was not out of place. But when the signs wanted me to walk all the way into Logroño on this evergrowing highway for the remaining 8 kms, I had enough and jumped over to the smaller carretera de Zaragoza. There was almost no traffic on a Sunday morning.
I passed three massive bodegas on my way into Logroño. I had to take a picture of the first one (second picture). It looks like a spaceship has landed in the vineyards. Or is it a missing piece of Monte do Gozo?
I aimed for the suburb of Varea where I thought I would find the arrows again. They reappeared, and took me on a river walk, like in Zaragoza, all the way into Logroño. It is the Ruta del Ebro after all so I guess they want you to be glued to the river until the bitter end.
When I approached the bridge Puente de Piedra that comes from the Camino Francés, I spotted two pilgrims who were just crossing. I thought there would be more after them, but they were the only ones. They sneaked into an albergue (there is one in every corner here; how is that possible!?) while I continued along the Camino Francés for a while. I went to the church of Santiago and saw the pilgrims' fountain (picture nr 5). The church was open, but the inside didn't look much to me.
I haven't been to Logroño for twelve years, on my first Camino. But I hardly remember anything of what the city looks like. I think there are less pilgrims now though. Of course there are a lot of foreigners at the plaza in front of the cathedral, whom I presume are pilgrims who have slipped into something more comfortable in the afternoon. But there were much more of them last time I was here.
I stay in Pensión Travesia, 29 euros, in a street stuffed with people and tapas bars. The building and the stairs look like they have not been renovated since the Civil War, but the inside is super clean and modern.
I take the bus to Ponferrada at 2 am tonight (gasp) and arrive 8:30 in the morning. That gives me a whole day to rest in Ponferrada and to prepare for the Camino de Invierno. I don't think I will write about the Invierno every day though. I will probably do a summary afterwards, and focus on things that Laurie might want to change or add to the Invierno Forum guide.
It feels weird to have completed La Ruta del Ebro! I will make a summary of this one as well, for those who think about walking it in the future but don't have time to read through my day-to-day ramblings...! I will be back!
/BP
The train to Ponferrada wasn't complicated at all, and yes, it was pretty nice.The Logroño to Burgos bus would likely be simpler; am I detecting a hint that the train ride is visually stunning?
it's the polideportivo in Puente de DF tomorrow, everything else is closed or completo. But I will move over to the Invierno Forum...
You mean opposite the castle here in Ponferrada? I went there the first thing in the morning...!
Holey moley, that's massive.
You better go to the fab pastelleria opposite the castle and stock up on napolitanas.
Buen camino, BP!!!
I am envious.
it's the polideportivo in Puente de DF tomorrow, everything else (cheap) is closed or completo
Yup. The very place. Fortunately they will have made some more by tomorrow morning.,You mean opposite the castle here in Ponferrada?
Have you tried the new private albergue? The forum member who told me about it said it was open.
BPHi everyone,
I may or may not begin to walk the Ebro from Deltebre next week!
I am currently investigating what I need to do to enter Spain according to the authorities. I am not a criminal!! I will comply to the rules.
I do have my credencial ready (that Ivar sent me one year ago when I thought I could still go in 2020). And I just recieved the guidebook that I ordered from Spain by mail! It is form 2006 (yikes), but I like to have something to browse through while I am walking.
If I can cross Spain legally, I plan to continue on the Olvidado and then the Invierno.
If I can go I should start from Deltebre on June 18th...
To be continued
/Bad Pilgrim
BP
Great thread! Glad I found it. Very helpful to me as I'm planning my first Camino and yours is the most current encounter that I can find.
I'm beginning CdeE April 20th-ish 2022 after a few acclimation days on the Costa Dorada. I am considering to skip the delta and start in Tortosa as that seems the easiest train ride from Barcelona. I was interested in Amposta as an ancient Port city but not sure if that is so? maybe the Delta is a "must see"? What are your thoughts?
I intend to walk towards Gallur. To visit the Gandesa museum and to pray at the Basilica de Pilar in Zaragoza. From Gallur thinking to cross the Castilliano-Argonbes ( Soriano) through Soria and on to Burgos. Yes. I can be quite introverted at times. I like the solitude. Plus there may be good Riojas and Tempernillos there? And from other threads I'm gathering this could be a very beautiful Camino.
On completing the Lana stretch from the monastery, I'm not sure what I'll do? Join the Frances or move on to Invierno? Time will tell.
Ultreia!
Haha, Whatta ya mean, "yadda-yadda"? Bird lovers unite! (Are Napolitanas just crossants and yadda-yadda?)flamingos and yadda-yadda
Having done this, I agree 1000%.And before Peregrina@2000 chimes in, I would like you to consider an alternative even more remote than the Lana: the Camino de San Olav from Covarrubias to Burgos. (In the wrong direction, but it is doable in 2-3 days.)
Hmm I like birds. I have never seen a flamingo in the wild.
Things seem to change rapidly as I plan. I just heard from a friend in Calafell. She has invited me to visit and stay for a couple of days. Wikiloc (a very new application for me) suggests I can walk straight from Calafell up to Lleida and across to Pina de Ebro to join the Cami. De Ebro. So, it looks like I may pass on the Delta this time.
San Olav sounds interesting! As you know, I plan to traverse in parallel with the Frances on the Cami Castellano-Argonnes. From St Domingo up to Burgos...is that the Olav? or Lana? I've found the "walkers Guide to San Olav" in the resources..helpful! I would be walking the way in reverse of the guide.
Thank you BP! Not so bad afterall!
I'm from Portland! "Weird" is what we do here! Is the Ermita hospitable?From Covarrubias (after Santo Domingo de Silos) you can take either the regular Lana or the quaint San Olav to Burgos. In either case, you will meet few people! I had some trouble finding accomodation and food on the San Olav, but that is probably because I should have planned better...! And I think it is more comfortable to walk it in 3 days, not 2 as I did.
And the quirky Ermita de San Olav is a sight to behold! Who needs an ancient sanctuary when you can have a fusion between a recycling bin and a slate quarry?!
I'm from Portland! "Weird" is what we do here! Is the Ermita hospitable?
I think this is the only website of a monument of any kind that I have ever seen that does not post a picture. At least not one that I could find. But it would be rude of me to suggest that a picture is likely to turn away more visitors than it will attract.They have opening hours here: http://www.capilladesanolav.com/es/c/?idsec=398
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