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Burgos, April 2019

paleoirish

Miriam
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Frances 2019
Hi, I'm starting out from Burgos on April 12th or 13th, this will be my first Camino and I'm getting very excited, despite the warnings from my physiotherapist to take it easy on the auld knee. I'll be taking it easy for the first week or so to get into the swing of things however I'll happily wave at all and sundry passing me out along the way ;)

I have 6 weeks for this wee ramble so I'm hoping to head on to Muxia and Finisterre after SdC, and then perhaps head south towards Portugal if the mood takes me. I've really no idea of what sort of mileage I'll do once I get attuned to the Way so it's all a bit of a mystery to me and will unfold as it should as I go along.
 
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Twelve Misc but Well-Intentioned Suggestions
  • Burgos. Not my absolute favorite, but possibly the most challenging/complicated city on the whole Frances. Sooooo much to see. Indulge in a sightseeing day if you possibly can. ... Tour the cathedral, of course – but absolutely visit the Monasterio de las Huelgas. Take the tour there even if you don’t speak Castilian. Visiting Burgos w/o seeing Las Huelgas would be like visiting London w/o seeing Westminster.
  • Castrojerez. Yes, you'll be tired upon arrival. But don’t just rush into town: the museum/church of Santa Maria de la Manzana is very much worth some time. And if you just push past it into town you'll never get back to it....
  • From Fromista to Villalcazar de Sirga. Take the river path. Life enhancing! And visit the Templar church.
  • Leon. Again, sooo much to see! Yes, there’s the incredible cathedral, certainly. But visit the San Isidoro Museum, with it’s Holy Grail and extraordinary Romanesque murals. Take the tour there even if you don’t speak Castilian. ... And if you’re not staying in albergues, (and I typically don’t, anymore!) make an exception in Leon and stay at the Benedictinas on the Plaza Carbajal.
  • Astorga. It’s a bit bizarre, but the Gaudi palace is worth a look, and far more interesting than the cathedral. A touch of fairyland in old Espana!
  • El Ganso. Take a break at the Cowboy Bar. Not optional! Order a sidre and enjoy the performance.
  • Las Herrerias. If you’re not staying in hotels, make an exception here at Paraiso del Bierzo. Dine well, admire the cows in the pasture, and rest up for the up-and-over climb to O Cebreiro.
  • From Samos to Sarria. The walk is easy and just about the most charming stretch on the whole western Frances. (Don't even think of taking the San Xil route!)
  • Portomarin. I find the old fortress-church here to be mesmerizing. Why a fortress-church? It was built when jihadis lived just down the way and might come burning/pillaging w/o warning. Such a difference from today's rustic calm, and the Camino's ecumenical ethos!
  • Melide. The Ezequiel Restaurant. Sorry, but you just gotta stop and eat the pulpo. Even if you don't like pulpo. Not optional. It’s required by the peregrino code….
  • Monte de Gozo. Forget the ghastly Pope JP2 monument – find your way to the Pointing Pilgrims monument, instead. Sit for a spell, and thank God for your arrival.
  • Santiago. Try not to let your arrival be anticlimactic. ... Yes, yes, yes – cathedral, botafumerio, crypt, and all that. … Waaaay too much to see in the course of one visit! ... So just absorb what you can, enjoy every minute you have! ... If you have time, visit Sant Maria del Sar. You’ll appreciate why when you get there.... Oh – and the best chorizo al vino in all Spain may be found at the CafĂ©-Bar Mazarelos, in the university district.
There's so much more that could be said. Vaya con Dios!
 
Last edited:
Buen camino Peregrina!
elle
 
Hi, I'm starting out from Burgos on April 12th or 13th, this will be my first Camino and I'm getting very excited, despite the warnings from my physiotherapist to take it easy on the auld knee. I'll be taking it easy for the first week or so to get into the swing of things however I'll happily wave at all and sundry passing me out along the way ;)

I have 6 weeks for this wee ramble so I'm hoping to head on to Muxia and Finisterre after SdC, and then perhaps head south towards Portugal if the mood takes me. I've really no idea of what sort of mileage I'll do once I get attuned to the Way so it's all a bit of a mystery to me and will unfold as it should as I go along.
Brun camino! I will start from Burgos as well but on the 18th , I did Pamplona Burgos last August and stayed 2 days in Burgos which is worth the visit!!The guided tours of the cathedral are amazingly and try to keep a few hours for the museum of evolution. Or take the bus to Atapuerca
 
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Hi, I'm starting out from Burgos on April 12th or 13th, this will be my first Camino and I'm getting very excited, despite the warnings from my physiotherapist to take it easy on the auld knee. I'll be taking it easy for the first week or so to get into the swing of things however I'll happily wave at all and sundry passing me out along the way ;)

I have 6 weeks for this wee ramble so I'm hoping to head on to Muxia and Finisterre after SdC, and then perhaps head south towards Portugal if the mood takes me. I've really no idea of what sort of mileage I'll do once I get attuned to the Way so it's all a bit of a mystery to me and will unfold as it should as I go along.

Hi Miriam-- My two sons and I will be starting out from Burgos on the 12th or possibly the 13th-- This is our third time walking, but the first time on the meseta! I expect my boys will pull ahead of me (they are 6' tall, ages 18 and 21), so maybe we can connect and walk together for a ways, or share a meal. As for knees-- use walking sticks (two) and walk diagonally downhill.

Kate
 
Hi Miriam and Kate! I'll be arriving in Burgos on the 12th with plans to start on the 13th after a visit to the Cathedral in the morning. Any chance you're up for sharing a hotel room or Airbnb? I'll be arriving too late (21:45) to get into an Albergue (and still have any friends left thereafter ;) ) but it seems like just about all the beds and single rooms in Burgos under 50€ are already booked up. Shoot me a PM if you'd be interested. Otherwise, I look forward to possibly meeting you along the way. Buen Camino!
 
Hi Miriam and Kate!.... but it seems like just about all the beds and single rooms in Burgos under 50€ are already booked up. Shoot me a PM if you'd be interested. Otherwise, I look forward to possibly meeting you along the way. Buen Camino!
Hi Nicky, unfortunately I have a double bed booked, I knew that it would be my last chance for privacy for the next while.

Would love to meet up in the morning if possible as I thought that I'd do the Evolution museum in arrival on the 12th and leave the cathedral for the walk out on the Saturday morning.
I'll send you a pm :)
 
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