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I agree with Mendywalker. Walk shorter distances and start very early in the morning as long as it is hot outside. We always tried to be at our next place to sleep before lunchtime. 15 to 20 kms max and that is possible on the Ingles except for Betanzos to Bruma which takes you some more timeDay 1 Ferrol to Pontedeume
Well that was one long tough day.
Neither of us are walkers and didn't do any training so we knew this would be tough. It turned out a lot tougher than expected.
We made a mistake at the start leaving hotel Suizo and going to tourist office in 12 Rua Magdelena for our sello only to be told by them the starting point was behind hotel Suizo so we had to back track on ourselves.
When we got to the start point we had trouble finding the post with the Camino sign to get our pictures taken next to. It is actually not near the water but across the road outside the cafe in case anyone else has the same problem.
The walk out of Ferrol was nice and we passed three lady perigrinos just past the statue of the Sacred Heart of Jesus. A quick chat and we were on our way only seeing them again a distance behind us at the Neda alburgue.
The 28 degree heat was causing us trouble, feet were swelling and suffering too. We stopped at the Iglesia de Santa Maria, put compeed on our new forming blisters and both decided on a change of footwear. Off came the walking shoes on went the sandals. Walking in these was much better. Lesson to be learnt here is only bring footwear you have walked distances in.
We got lost for half an hour at the section just past the 1957 lavadero were it says 'Proceed down to the main road'. I think it should read ' go left uphill slighly then down to the main road' as at this junction you can see the main road on your right but not your left.
There was also another section where it is very easy to take the wrong turn as we did. At the Cafeteria Vilar do Colo, Johnnys instructions tell you to take a sharp left but there are temporary Camino posters pointing to turn right. I spent a while walking down each way to find signs with no joy. The route in now actually straight ahead down past the Estrella factory and you pick up the new signage here. These eventually lead back onto Johnnys route.
My partner Wendy was really suffering with the heat and walking was becoming a struggle. With 10k to go I was carrying both ruck sacks. We carried on at a slow pace taking plenty of breaks and finally made it to Pontedeume. We would never have made it without Johhnys guide, it is essential.
Found Bar Luis got the key and collapsed on our beds exhausted. Wendy is in a bad way suffering some heat stroke and our Camino may be over. We will see what the night brings.
Ask for a sello in a bar or restaurant. Any will do in the pilgrimsoffice later in Santiago as long as you can prove that you have been somewhere on the route.Day 2 Pontedeume to Betanzos
(Due to wifi access blog running late)
Woke up in Pontedeume feeling stiff and sore but refreshed. Wendy had been praying for God to take the pain away during the night and was feelling much better also.
We decided to try walking today to see how we get on and if we made it to the Alburgue in Minos it would be a bonus.
Started by going to to get the sello but they were closed so continued up the Rua Real calling into the chemist to get compeed and ibrufen.
So happy to read that your day 2 went so much better! Did you actually walk the whole way with sandals and flip flops? (Even the hill after the golf course?) How nice to see a refreshment stand on the route. We didn't see that last month but we talked about how nice it would be...and even nicer, perhaps, to be the one hosting. Can't wait to read your day 3 update. Buen Camino!
You have a very popular strategy! One downside of shorter camino walks is that you never really reach the point where you are well conditioned. The first week is one of aches and pains. After two weeks, you find your strength, but on a 100km walk, you may be home already.Today we had a change of tactics were we did less stops and kept pushing on. We found that when we stopped we were seizing up so better to keep going.
Well done !Day 3 Betanzos to Bar Julia
We decided on a very early start today out from Betanzos. Both left our walking shoes at the alburgue with a note saying 'Free to Pilgrims'. We would not be wearing them again this trip so hopefully they will aid other pilgrims.
The only problem with leaving in the dark it can be hard to see the signs and almost took wrong turn out of Betanzos.
Its a bit of a climb so early on in the day but I suppose its better getting this over at the start. There were a lot less Up Hill, Down Hill today which was welcomed.
Today we had a change of tactics were we did less stops and kept pushing on. We found that when we stopped we were seizing up so better to keep going. Terrain was a bit rougher as more forrestry parts but very quiet and we barely saw any locals all day.
We arrived at Bar Julia earlier then expected and sat down to large beers and sandwiches, well deserved.
We gave Antonio a called from Meson Novo and he came to collect us and will drop up back here in the morning to finish this leg. Superb service.
For as much discussion that goes on about footwear, I really all boils down to what works for each individual, doesn't it? You are past the worst part terrain-wise. Great updates!
We met three outside of Ferrol. There were ten including us in the Alburgue in Betanzos.
Eleven including us staying in Meson Novo and met/saw another fourteen yesterday on route from Bruma to Siguiero. Plenty sitting outside cafés in Siguiero last night and staying in Hostal Miras.
Day 5 Bruma to Siguiero
Tea and toast for breakfast and chatted to a fellow Peregrino from Leeds this morning.
Said goodbye to our amazing hosts at Meson Novo, they really go out of their way to make your stay special.
Another wet start to the morning and wasn't long till we rejoined the route and were on our way.
We soon saw in front and behind us in the distance dark coloured poncho wearing Peregrinos. We must have looked odd with our bright pink and red water proof jackets in the middle.
When we arrived at the Cruceiro bar it was closed but there were several Peregrinos sitting outside taking a rest. We shared Buen Caminos and carried on.
We shortly passed another three Spanish Peregrinos, looked like father, mother and son.
Our pace was faster today then previous days we are definitely getting stronger.
We caught up with another two Spanish Peregrinos on the tree lined section who called us back when we took a right instead of going straight ahead at a junction.
They were in front of us the rest of the way as their pace quickened.
Today's route was mostly flat and easier on the legs and we made it to Siguiero without taking any breaks.
Got a room in Hostal Miras, showered changed and I was even feeling fresh enough to drop off some Geocoins I brought over, at a local cache, aptly named 'Camino Ingles'.
Looking forward to last stretch of the journey tomorrow.
It was a tough camiño but worthwhile to walk this.You guys will have a marvelous walk tomorrow! Well, it's today for you as I look at Spanish time. Thanks for the updates along the way. It's been fun reading them and cheering you on from afar!
Just tonight I showed my in-laws all if the pics from my Camino last month. One of my favorites was taken a flower field on the road from Meson Novo to the Camino. It was at that point that the tough parts were over and the rest of the walk was really, really enjoyable. Seems you are finding the same to be true.
Buen Camino!
What an anti-climax but you are not the only one.Day 6 Sigueiro to Santiago
Stayed in Hostal Miras, got very little sleep, what a noisy place that is.
Set out very early to make sure we made it to Santiago in time for the mass. It was still dark and misty so the torch was required for a while. Saw lots of rabbits hopping off in the distance and a deer running in the field next to us.
At close to the 5k marker when you walk out onto the main road we bumped into the Pilgrim from Leeds again had a quick chat and he was soon off in the distance as he was tight for time.
The next 7k were strange, I lost where I was on Johnnys guide and couldnt find any landmark to tie me back to the guide, only this stage is well marked or there would have been more of a panic.
I found coming into Santiago a bit disappointing when the waymarks stop completely, its as if saying 'your close enough'. I would have thought the waymarks would have went on till the final destination. Completing the final stretch by street signs wasn't what I was expecting.
We arrived at the Cathederal and I was looking forward to doing the touching, hugging, kneeling stage that for me signified the completion of the pligrimage. As soon as we entered the Cathederal a security guard chased us back out again as we were carrying back backs? Of course we were we had just walked here! Yet as we were leaving a group of about 20 tourists with back backs were let in with no issues as they had a guide with them.
So we went found our hostal, dropped the back packs off and we back to the Cathederal to catch the mass, to find the doors locked at 11:40 and they were not letting anyone in.
I found the final day a big anti-climax to be honest, it wasn't how I was expecting it to be.
Santiago is a nice place and we enjoyed an evening there before flying home.
So a lot to do afterwards you will keep the camiño going in your mind. After 2 camiños we can't get enough of it. We are allready preparing the next one May 2015 ,the caminho Portuges again but this time along the coast and my good Portugese friend Diogo just a minute ago send me some interesting information of a rather unknown camiño along the Galicean coast from Pontevedra to Padrón and so on to Santiago. The camino SalnésYes we received our Compostellas all ready to be framed along with a montage of pictures we took en route
I took a number of pictures on the way and hopefully will get them uploaded soon.
It has been a very good experience and if/when we decide to do another Camino we will go in a lot more experienced and prepared, that is for sure.
I like uncle Bob ! He has the right camiño spirit. A pity we did not meet him and drank a cold beer with him.Not all pilgrims claim a certificate so the stats are on the low side!
Some people have said that they found the Camino Ingles more challenging than the Aragones!
My friend 'Little John' (81 this year) walked the Camino Ingles a week before we did in June and he found it really hard going. When I mentioned this to Bob (90 in September) he said, "As far as roughness of trails and steepness of grades, I felt that it was easier than the route from Sarria."
You make a good point for those who blithely eschew planning and preparation. For most pilgrims it is not easy. The more you prepare the more enjoyable it will be. Of course, that is not a recommendation of obsessive/compulsive adherence to a plan. That may ruin the experience as well.If we do return in 2015 we will be much better prepared physically and mentally and will be able to enjoy the experience more thats for sure.
Don't we all miss the camiño ? Once done you are infected by what is called the camiño virus.Wendy said to me last night she is missing the Camino and wants to go back. Which suprised me as was a tougher week for her then for me.
If we do return in 2015 we will be much better prepared physically and mentally and will be able to enjoy the experience more thats for sure.
Wendy said to me last night she is missing the Camino and wants to go back. Which suprised me as was a tougher week for her then for me.
If we do return in 2015 we will be much better prepared physically and mentally and will be able to enjoy the experience more thats for sure.
Walk the Portuges ! Great walk either from Lisbon or Porto . We found the 120 kms of the Ingles this year more intens than the 650 kms from Lisbon last year.I have the exact same thoughts. While I had a very difficult time on the first half of the Ingles last month, and am still dealing with effects of blisters on one foot, I very strongly want to re-do the Ingles or try the Portuguese in a year or so. If you told me a month ago in Santiago that I would be saying this, I'd have called you crazy! The Camino called and it keeps calling.
Hi Balian,just read your last post-July 25 2014 about the Ingles. WE are going in September-taking it steady! Are you having another go this year? I've worried about blisters after some crackers last year (Sarria) first camino. But I had to laugh reading about you doing it in sandals!! It put my mind at rest a bit.I thought o.k. then I might try it barefoot this year!Wendy said to me last night she is missing the Camino and wants to go back. Which suprised me as was a tougher week for her then for me.
If we do return in 2015 we will be much better prepared physically and mentally and will be able to enjoy the experience more thats for sure.
P,S, We are from Solihull,West Midlands-haven't seen our place mentioned much either!Hi Balian,just read your last post-July 25 2014 about the Ingles. WE are going in September-taking it steady! Are you having another go this year? I've worried about blisters after some crackers last year (Sarria) first camino. But I had to laugh reading about you doing it in sandals!! It put my mind at rest a bit.I thought o.k. then I might try it barefoot this year!
Hi Balian,
Loved going over your experiences of the Camino Ingles which was me and my mate Craig's first Camino back in 2012. We are from Bangor so nice to see a fellow countryman on the forum! You can have a laugh at our blog by clicking the link on my signature!
So much did I enjoy the Camino that I returned the following year with my wife and kids and walked the first five days of 'El Camino del Norte' and last year five of us from Bangor walked from Ourense into Santiago...and in July me and the wife and kids will pick up where we left off on the 'Norte' from Gernika...
What I think I'm trying to say is the after my first camino experience I was hooked and am counting the days down to return in July so don't be surprised if it reels you back in!!!
Feel free to give me a shout anytime if you need any advice!
Buen Camino / Bide On!!!
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