gollygolly
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Hi, gollygolly,
I have walked the Primitivo twice, my stages here for purposes of comparison if you're interested:
http://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/my-stages-on-the-camino-primitivo.4841/
http://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/back-from-the-primitivo-june-2012.14728/
I would suggest one little tweak -- instead of staying in the monastery in Cornellana, which then would give you a long day 1 and a short day 2, you might want to consider shortening day 1 and walk to San Juan de Villapanada. There is a lovely albergue there, great views, clean and comfortable, with a hospitalero "character" who loves the Camino, orchestrates dinner, and enjoys keeping the albergue in good shape. Buen camino, you will love the primitivo. Laurie
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Looking forward to reading your own account of how your Camino and experience unfolds. I can read that my own tentative plans are more than ambitious, and so a little bit of extra time is now being built into the planned stages so that it will be slightly longer in terms of days on the Camino, but the distance covered on some of days will not be so extreme. Buen Camino for your own May experience!!!Hi Gollygolly,
I'm planning to make my way along the Salvador and Primitivo this spring, hoping to start in May so i'll be ahead of you. I promise i'll post any surprises i find along the routes. I am so grateful to Laurie for her wonderful posts on these routes and to Tia and all the others who have posted supplementary info across this forum. Personally I think some of your stages are ambitious, they certainly would be for me, but you will know your own capabilities and those of your companion. I found, on the Frances, that it was not the individual days mileage but the aggregate that was the challenge. I can, and do occasionally, walk marathon distances in a day but walking long distances, with a pack, on consecutive days puts additional strain on the good body. Perhaps either moderate some of your stages or factor in some rest days. i'm sure your companion will would appreciate them.
Buen camino
Hi there Ta ValeriaThe caveat was Terry's thought rather than mine. He walked more like the Gronze length stages, but with some different stops. A further consideration will be availability of provisions - eg. Berducedo has bar/shop etc but La Mesa has none (although a tiny temporary facility was open in 2013 in the high season apparently).
Gollygolly you can see Terry's stages here at Terry's Walk to Compostella May which gives his stages and distances. A few were short because he wanted to see places and the longest was Cádabo to Lugo, which we broke at Castroverde when together. Terry suggests too that Puente Romana (Ferreira) to Melide would be far enough at 26km - it is another 11km to Ribadiso - again because of the terrain.
Happy planning.
I am flying into Madrid on July seventh and am drawn to irun to santander then believe I might bus to Oviedo or somewhere close with maybe a bit of beach time inbetween but the long and short is I will be with a nine year old and look forward to Basque country a bit of the north coast then the topography of the primitivo. It would be fantastic for the young ones to know they aren't the only ones.Hola a todos
Any comments, suggestions and thoughts are welcomed, particularly current views on the albuerges and places to stay as well as any recommendations for where to eat well but economically!
Having had such a good time walking on the Camino Ingles last July, the intention is that we set out on the Camino Primitivo in late July 2014. The "we" is myself and a 9 year old, who is a determined, proven and strong walker.
The following are the plans, though these plans are subject to feed-back received
Oviedo - Cornella
Cornella - Bodenaya
Bodenaya - Campiello
Campiello - Berducedo
Bedrducedo - Castro
Castro - Fonsagrada
Fonsagarda - O Cadavo
O Cadavo - Lugo
rest day in Lugo
Lugo - Puente Romano
Puente Romano - Ribadiso da Baixo
Ribadiso da Baixo - Pedrouzo
Pedrouzo - Monte de Gozo
Monte de Gozo - Santiago de Compestela
Many thanks for any responses.
The Primitivo is truly beautiful. As others have noted, there is a lot of up and down, so plan stages accordingly. Also, be ready for some seriously muddy walking, especially near Tineo. We found plenty of places to stay (mix of albergues and small pensions) in 2012. For a day by day description of the stages we walked and a few photos, take a look at our blog here.
Buen Camino.
Hi there! Just a little correction here: Ferreira to Melide will rather be 20 or 22 km than 26km. You have about 25km from Ferreira to Boente, which is 5km passed Melide.... Terry suggests too that Puente Romana (Ferreira) to Melide would be far enough at 26km - it is another 11km to Ribadiso - again because of the terrain.
Happy planning.
Beatrice, what dates?? We're looking at fall also..probably late September into October!!Just listening as I aim for the same this autumn.
Don't know yet. Probably a month before you.Beatrice, what dates?? We're looking at fall also..probably late September into October!!
Hi ksam,Beatrice, what dates?? We're looking at fall also..probably late September into October!!
The Primitivo is truly beautiful. As others have noted, there is a lot of up and down, so plan stages accordingly. Also, be ready for some seriously muddy walking, especially near Tineo. We found plenty of places to stay (mix of albergues and small pensions) in 2012. For a day by day description of the stages we walked and a few photos, take a look at our blog here.
Buen Camino.
Hi Gollygolly,
I'm planning to make my way along the Salvador and Primitivo this spring, hoping to start in May so i'll be ahead of you. I promise i'll post any surprises i find along the routes. I am so grateful to Laurie for her wonderful posts on these routes and to Tia and all the others who have posted supplementary info across this forum. Personally I think some of your stages are ambitious, they certainly would be for me, but you will know your own capabilities and those of your companion. I found, on the Frances, that it was not the individual days mileage but the aggregate that was the challenge. I can, and do occasionally, walk marathon distances in a day but walking long distances, with a pack, on consecutive days puts additional strain on the good body. Perhaps either moderate some of your stages or factor in some rest days. i'm sure your companion will would appreciate them.
Buen camino
Strongly suggest that the private albuerge located in Campiello, about 3.5kms prior to Borres, is the far better option. Another negative of the destination is that the only bar in Borres is serving poor food and is overpriced. Note: if on the following day you are going to walk the 'Hospitales' route, there are no shops at all after Campiello. Stock up with provisions at Campiello!
Day 5: Borres - Montefurado
started walking at 7:38am arrival 4:04pm
not sure at all, but was told that it was 21.4kms
Hi gollygolly!, really sorry that we were fully booked the day you passed in front of us and you had to keep on to As Seixas, especially because it must have been a long first day of walk for your wife; would have been nice to meet another forum member! However, as you said, the albergue in As Seixas, and also Marifé, the hospitalera, are wonderful, so no sorrow!Day 12: Lugo - As Saixas
started walking at 6:26am arrival 15:14pm
again, not sure of the accurate distance, but believe it is about 37.4kms.
Poor start to the day, as we followed the original stone way markers out of, I believe, the gateway known as Porta Miña. After following the camino and descending the hill we came to a section that is now a quagmire, and impassable. We retraced our steps back to the walls of the old town, and found a sign indicating a deviation, which we now followed in order to exit Lugo, crossing the old Roman bridge, subject to a recent serious over-restoration, leaving it looking spanking new. As we ascended out of Lugo we passed the way marker indicating that just over 100 kms were left to walk to get to Santiago. The intended destination was full, and we forged ahead to the albuerge at As Seixas, a delightful place...
This makes a normal size of the cake: http://chocolatepimienta.blogspot.se/2011/01/tarta-de-fonsagrada.html It looks like an ordinary "sponge cake" with a special blend (almonds in the custard) for the custard between the layers and on top.We liked Fonsagrada, good place to stay and food. The Tarta de Fonsagrada was wonderful. I am still looking for a recipe that doesn't serve an entire restaurant
Gollygolly -- THANKS for the detailed account of your trip! I am collecting info for the guide I am maintaining and all your detail was very helpful. Congratulations to your daughter expecially -- walking 39 k days is really impressive -- I sure try to avoid doing so!
I have a questionfor you. Where did you stay in Montefurado? Is there an albergue? or a Casa Rural? Thanks again for all the info.
We liked Fonsagrada, good place to stay and food. The Tarta de Fonsagrada was wonderful. I am still looking for a recipe that doesn't serve an entire restaurant
We liked Fonsagrada, good place to stay and food. The Tarta de Fonsagrada was wonderful. I am still looking for a recipe that doesn't serve an entire restaurant
"[/we were not taken by the town of Fonsagrada, with the sprawl of ugly, recently built blocks of flats and decided to walk a bit further, to stay at the very friendly albuerge at Padrón. The additional 1/1.5kms was worth it for the tranquility of the location, the friendliness of the place - and a washing machine! Once we settled in, we walked back to Fonsagrada for a late lunch, which was easily the worst meal of the Camino, and stocked up on provisions at the local super-market. This included buying some food for our late supper, before our walk back to the albuerge"
I'm sorry for your bad meal. Where did you eat?
In my case I had by far my best lunch in my Camino.
A Fonsagrada is a mythic place for pulpo in North East Galicia and Western Asturias and there are organized trips from these areas just to have pulpo in Candal and O Caldeira restaurants.
Also caldo galego, pimentos de Padrón, and other Galego dishes are usually good.
I have already posted a response to Tia Valeria on the lunch, which was a follows : the lunch we had was in Restaurante pulpería A Parrilla, which is located just at the beginning as one enters Fonsagrada ; the poor meal may have also been because of the lateness of our eating, and the possibility that the cook had left.
We had been given recommendations for eating in Fonsagrada : the Caldeira and the O Candal - but no success at finding these open when we were looking for our late lunch (it was also Monday).
.
Hi gollygolly!, really sorry that we were fully booked the day you passed in front of us and you had to keep on to As Seixas, especially because it must have been a long first day of walk for your wife; would have been nice to meet another forum member! However, as you said, the albergue in As Seixas, and also Marifé, the hospitalera, are wonderful, so no sorrow!
Buen Camino!,
The Camino passes through Montefurado which ever route you take from Campiello as it is after Puerto de Palo. There is a chapel and a few empty buildings.Help !!
I am feeling that a senior moment has come on, and cannot now recall ; my hand written summary state Montefurado, and yet when I look at our credencial, I see the stamp on the 1st August is showing BORRES and the next dated albuerge is the next day, 2nd August showing Albuerge de Peregrinos LA MESA. I recall our abandoning/departing from Berducedo and heading to La Mesa, but cannot recall Montefurado. Did we pass through Montefurado if we came via Hospitales ??? I actually cannot recall Montefurado, and must go and scratch my memory a lot harder and see where my notes are adrift.
Except that we found it closed when passing there one early morning in September last year.Yes O Acebo is a solitary bar, that is the first house after passing the Asturias/Galicia border. I think it is the perfect place to celebrate the arrival in Galicia with a Ribeiro and a tapa.
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