LIVE from the Camino CF April 2024

[hikingcat]

Today I started my camino, walking fom Pamplona to Puente La Reina. More on that later.

After what was possibly the longest transit ever from Australia, I finally made it to Pamplona. I wanted to say thanks to all the forum members who posted about Madrid airport and connecting to the train to Atocha station. It was really helpful and turned out to be very straightforward.

In Pamplona, I spent two days resting, gathering supplies, and exploring. I loved the old town, and walking along the city walls. I also had the good fortune to meet up with three other forum members! It was so nice to meet you and hope to cross paths again.

On to the camino. What an incredible walk today. The views were spectacular. Rolling green hills and views of the mountains as far as the eye could see. There was even a rainbow!

It was very cold for most of the day (about 8C) but this didn't affect my enjoyment of the walk at all. I was warm in my many layers.

Feeling blessed to be here, and immersed in the wonder of it all.

 

[MARSKA]

Today I started my camino, walking fom Pamplona to Puente La Reina. More on that later.

After what was possibly the longest transit ever from Australia, I finally made it to Pamplona. I wanted to say thanks to all the forum members who posted about Madrid airport and connecting to the train to Atocha station. It was really helpful and turned out to be very straightforward.

In Pamplona, I spent two days resting, gathering supplies, and exploring. I loved the old town, and walking along the city walls. I also had the good fortune to meet up with three other forum members! It was so nice to meet you and hope to cross paths again.

On to the camino. What an incredible walk today. The views were spectacular. Rolling green hills and views of the mountains as far as the eye could see. There was even a rainbow!

It was very cold for most of the day (about 8C) but this didn't affect my enjoyment of the walk at all. I was warm in my many layers.

Feeling blessed to be here, and immersed in the wonder of it all.

Sounds wonderful! I'm a few days behind you - so glad we had chance to meet!

 

[hikingcat]

Day 2: Puente La Reina to Estella

The promise of better weather lay ahead. Sunny skies and a warmer day of 15C were forecast. Indeed, it was a glorious day, and very warm in the afternoon.

It was a cool and misty start to the morning leaving Puente La Reina along the river, before climbing through a forest and walking in to Maneru. The climbing theme continued, with a very hilly stage today. The views were once again spectacular - bright blue skies, rich green hills, and bright yellow flowers. Also in abundance were red poppies and purple iris.

Walking beside the stone walls between Ciraqui and Lorca we came upon a beautiful oasis - The Olive Gardzen (not a typo)! A donativo pilgrim rest stop offering water, tea, coffee, snacks, and some misc items. Chairs and tables were set up under the olive trees in the shade, providing a lovely spot to rest.

Another great day!

Tonight I am staying at Hostal la Rua. Recommended without hesitation for the lovely rooms, and the warm and helpful host.

 

[hikingcat]

Sounds wonderful! I'm a few days behind you - so glad we had chance to meet!

Yes, me too! Hope to cross paths again.

 

[Jo H]

Sounds wonderful! I'm a few days behind you - so glad we had chance to meet!

Hope you had a good first day walking, Kate. Buen camino and lovely to have met you in SJPP. Buen camino. Jo

 

[J Willhaus]

Day 2: Puente La Reina to Estella

The promise of better weather lay ahead. Sunny skies and a warmer day of 15C were forecast. Indeed, it was a glorious day, and very warm in the afternoon.

It was a cool and misty start to the morning leaving Puente La Reina along the river, before climbing through a forest and walking in to Maneru. The climbing theme continued, with a very hilly stage today. The views were once again spectacular - bright blue skies, rich green hills, and bright yellow flowers. Also in abundance were red poppies and purple iris.

Walking beside the stone walls between Ciraqui and Lorca we came upon a beautiful oasis - The Olive Gardzen (not a typo)! A donativo pilgrim rest stop offering water, tea, coffee, snacks, and some misc items. Chairs and tables were set up under the olive trees in the shade, providing a lovely spot to rest.

Another great day!

Tonight I am staying at Hostal la Rua. Recommended without hesitation for the lovely rooms, and the warm and helpful host.

I think our first Camino a couple of buskers were set up here playing Spanish guitar. We sat and ate our bocadillos and felt enchanted. Good memory.

 

[hikingcat]

Day 3: Estella to Los Arcos

The weather is warming up - today was warm and sunny and it was 23C when I reached Los Arcos.

It was another beautiful day on the trail. A steep climb early on, a few hills along the way, but not difficult. More incredible scenery.

A highlight for today was taking a break at the cafe in Azqueta. Best coffee that I have had in Spain so far, and my first tarta de queso. It was OMG delicious!

For those behind me, the Pilgrims Oasis rest stop and food truck is open between Villamayor and Los Arcos. It is approx 7km after Villamayor. No services or water in this section, so plan accordingly.

Today I am feeling grateful for new-found friends.

 

[hikingcat]

Day 4: Los Arcos to Viana

It was forecast to be 27C today, and I had planned to make an early start to avoid the heat. Life had other plans, and some calls home had to be made. On the trail by 0730 nonetheless.

It was another very scenic walk today. Lots of flowers, especially poppies. I am enjoying walking in spring so much.

In the early part of the day, I chatted to an American couple that I had crossed paths with a few times. Then it was time for the Aussie onslaught! Five of us walking together at one point.

Heat was the theme of the day. When walking in warm weather it is easy to get deydrated or heat stress (trust me, I'm Australian). For those behind me, please note the trail in this section is very exposed without much shade. Dress for conditions and take lots of water. The last place to refill is at the cemetery just past Torres del Rio.

Walking a short day to Logrono tomorrow.

 

[hikingcat]

Day 5: Viana to Logrono

A short day walking to Logrono today.
I started the morning feeling tired and out of sorts. But as soon as I stepped outside, took a breath of cool, fresh air and started walking, I felt calm and happy.

Leaving Viana, the sun was still coming up and there were beautiful views of pastel coloured skies over the mountains. The walk wound through farml and forest before reaching the concrete paths leading to the bridge into Logrono.

In the city, I visited the cathedral, and had a wander through the old town. Had a good rest in my room in the afternoon.

PS. The 'add photo' function appears to be working again I hope I've added this thumbnail correctly.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Beautiful photo, and thanks for taking the time to post. Buen Camino!

 

[hikingcat]

Skipping ahead in posts to Day 11. Rest day in Burgos today.

To summarise how things are going so far, I'm still enjoying the walk very much. The weather cooled down again and last two sections were a mix of rolling green hills - very cool and misty into Belorado - and walking beside the highway. The highway walking is unpleasant, but was made much better by the company of other pilgrims.

I am doing an average of 20-25km days. I am feeling fit and strong. I am happy with the progress I am making.

Every day I step out on to the path in the early morning, when the air is cool and the sun still rising, and I feel happy and calm, and ready to let the day ahead unfold.

 

[hikingcat]

Day 12: Burgos to Rabe de las Calzadas

It was a cool but bright and sunny morning as I set off from Burgos, happy to be back on the path.

I left the city by the river route. This was a great start to the day, walking under the trees, listening to the birds and the sound of the water. I didn't see any other pilgrims until the bridge where the city and river routes meet.

It was a short and easy walk today and the hostal/restaurant La Fuente is comfortable. I used the afternoon to catch up on some admin tasks. Looking forward to a longer walk to Castrojeriz tomorrow.

 

[J Willhaus]

Day 12: Burgos to Rabe de las Calzadas

It was a cool but bright and sunny morning as I set off from Burgos, happy to be back on the path.

I left the city by the river route. This was a great start to the day, walking under the trees, listening to the birds and the sound of the water. I didn't see any other pilgrims until the bridge where the city and river routes meet.

It was a short and easy walk today and the hostal/restaurant La Fuente is comfortable. I used the afternoon to catch up on some admin tasks. Looking forward to a longer walk to Castrojeriz tomorrow.

We stayed at LA Fuente in 2016 when it was relatively new. The owner wanted us to "tell our English speaking friends" to stay with him. Good memories.

 

[David Tallan]

I left the city by the river route. This was a great start to the day, walking under the trees, listening to the birds and the sound of the water. I didn't see any other pilgrims until the bridge where the city and river routes meet.

I know there is a river route into the city. I used that on my last Camino Frances. I wasn't aware of a river route out of Burgos.

 

[hikingcat]

I know there is a river route into the city. I used that on my last Camino Frances. I wasn't aware of a river route out of Burgos.

Pretty sure I read about this option in the Brierley guide book. It was a really nice walk.

 

[hikingcat]

Day 13: Rabe de las Calzadas to Castrojeriz 29km

Left before 7am this morning due to the long day. It was still semi-dark. Beautiful to walk as the sun came up over the hills.

Today we entered the meseta proper. It was sunny but cold and windy for most of the day. Very exposed up on top of the ridge. It was still a beautiful walk through bright green landscapes and old stone walls.

After lunch, it warmed up quite a bit and layers were discarded. Stopped to explore the ruins of Saint Anton and rest there for a while. Didn't see many other pilgrims on the trail today.

Arrived at Castrojeriz just before 3pm. At 29km, today I've set a new personal record for distance walked, either on or off the camino.

 

[hikingcat]

Day 14: Castrojeriz to Fromista

Another cold morning as our little group of four set off this morning. When I arrived at the guest house where my friends were staying, the host invited me to stay for a cup of coffee before we left. So kind!

There was a steep climb to start the day and the wind was fierce. Nearly lost a trekking pole in one strong gust! The descent was equally steep, with a sign warning of an 18% gradient. Mostly flat after that. Enjoyed the walk along the canal in the last section.

It was cold and blustery all day. After lunch, the sun came out and it warmed up a little, but not really enough to stop the cold blowing in on the wind.

 

[hikingcat]

Day 16: Carrion los Condes to Ledigos

Not much to say about today. It ws 23km of flat walking across the meseta. A cool morning turned into a bright sunny day, making for good walking conditions. I met a Spanish gentleman who was walking his seventeenth camino!

For those coming behind me, the section between Carrion and Calzadilla is the 17km with no services or water - prepare accordingly. The food/coffee truck rest stop was operating today about 8km past Carrion. Coffee, sandwiches, cakes, snacks, fresh orange juice, and cold drinks all available.

 

[MARSKA]

Hola Hikingcat!!!!! I'm in Boadilla tonight. Onto Carrion tomorrow.