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Beer is so much more than just a breakfast drink on the Camino......Now that the weather has improved I'm sitting outside writing this post. It might time for another beer.
Oh no. this is not necessary. See the beautiful thing about the Camino is you don't have to carry the survival stuff. I walk in the Sierras in CA, so I know what you mean. I carry 1 liter of water. There are always places to fill up, (if you like tap, personally the smell of chlorine in my water, smells like, victory.)For those that have been on the Primitivo route should I be adding water purification/filtration to my pack?
Except on the Hospitales portion (if you take that option) where there is about 20 km between potable water sources. In the summer they advised carrying 3 L of water. Although I think I could have managed with 2 or maybe even 1.5, only carrying 1 L in the summer for 20 km is really pushing it.Oh no. this is not necessary. See the beautiful thing about the Camino is you don't have to carry the survival stuff. I walk in the Sierras in CA, so I know what you mean. I carry 1 liter of water. There are always places to fill up, (if you like tap, personally the smell of chlorine in my water, smells like, victory.)
On the Primitivo, not always. It’s easy to go 10km without a tap. Personally I carried - and used - 1.5l.Oh no. this is not necessary. See the beautiful thing about the Camino is you don't have to carry the survival stuff. I walk in the Sierras in CA, so I know what you mean. I carry 1 liter of water. There are always places to fill up, (if you like tap, personally the smell of chlorine in my water, smells like, victory.)
Leaving Tineo this morning
I love this little bar with its cold beer!
Wow, were you lucky with the Hospitales! I just had mist almost the entire day - a 15 minute break in the weather near the mid point, but whilst the sun shone it was just shining on the clouds below. Then the mist rolled back in - which I loved. Beautiful temperature for walking, so no complaints - and I resolved to come back again, so that I can see the much vaunted views....
I felt like I got my "camino legs" yesterday and decided to go for it. I had always packed planning for the need to stay outdoors, just in case. Not something I would recommend to everyone but if you are prepared then go for it. I just wish I had a longer pad between me and the concrete!...
Clearly your leg is ok if you hammered out a 40km day...
Enjoying reading, keep writing !
Leaving Tineo this morning
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Last time I went through, this place was closed. How great that it is open. What I remember is that it was owned by someone with a connection to Argentina, and his family, but that he had closed it. Either he is back or someone else has taken over, terrific, This is a very nice place to take a break, especially if it’s raining, as it frequently is! But apparently not for you, @cruiser75.We stopped for a lunch break at an old farmhouse with log stumps for seats and tables outside.
If it is the same place as the photo with the blue trim on the door and the stumps outside, it is still closed unfortunately. It didn't look as if anyone had been there for a while.Last time I went through, this place was closed. How great that it is open.
I'm not too sure where that would be but I can say that there looks to be some recent work done with concrete/gravel trail surfaces and some wooden walkways with railings to keep pilgrims separated from traffic and off the narrow shoulders. This was in a few spots along the route today.And I’m wondering if you took the down and up before A Lastra. The last time I was there, the Xunta’s attempts at trail improvement had turned this wooded path into gravel, but the weather had washed much of it away and it was looking much worse than when it was just a regular “unimproved” trail. There was also a guy in that hamlet down there (Gronze suggests it might be called O Couto) who was trying to fix up his grandparents’ home and was talking about an albergue, but I didn’t see any signs of that the last time I was through.
Your photos are beautiful
Really appreciating your sharing. My husband and I will be starting on Sept 25 in Oviedo and it is getting me very excited! Buen Camino!Leaving Tineo this morning
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Peregrino gasolino...Back at the pension and it is time to get up to date and have a beer.
Where was this? It is something I will definitely want to look for next time I walk the Primitivo!A hand drawn stamp from an artist, craftsman and musician and a free bunch of grapes from the vine above their door was a special camino moment of the day.
Yes, I'm really happy to have made that detour. Following the arrows behind the church takes you past a mill house next to stream and then past a small church with gargoyles and arches from the start of the 13th century. The quiet road meets up with the camino again without having to go back on the road you come in on.I see you made the same detour I did to Bóveda between Lugo and Ferreira.
Beautiful LugoO Cádavo Baleira to Lugo
No alarm needed! My body just wakes me up now and tells me it is time to start walking.
I took advantage of the kitchen this morning and made myself an instant coffee with leche, it wasn't the same but it got me going. I wanted a little extra to get me going plus it gave me time to check the weather, send a few messages, eat my yogurt and say hi to some fellow pilgrims.
We left the pension and opted to go straight to the camino thinking there wouldn't be a long walk to the next coffee opportunity! The next coffee didn't come until Castroverde. When we arrived there were many pilgrims there and more came after us.
Leaving Castroverde can be a bit confusing if you decided to get a coffee. Head towards the church with the fountain in front and from there you will see the camino markers again.
Despite there being no big climbs most of us felt like today was harder. Some said it was because there was no big views and others said it was because of the walk from the previous day. Either way, I got to two kilometers from Lugo and couldn't go further. We stopped on a large rock group just before the bridge that crosses the highway.
Everyone, that walked by or stopped to share some food, was feeling the same, tired! We packed up just as the rain started and a walked into Lugo.
If I haven't mentioned it before, I haven't planned or booked anything for this camino. The first place we tried didn't have any single rooms left, the second didn't answer the bell and the third was Hotel Exe Puerta de San Pedro. We got a room with two beds for €65 per night including breakfast.
A shower and a 20 minute nap later I was back on the street heading to the Prime Colada laundry to wash and dry clothes. There I met Leon and Julie from England also doing chores! Thanks to them for the heads up about the high heat setting being too much! I used the lowest setting and it was just enough heat. If you want a wine or beer while waiting for the self service wash, go across the street to the bar!
I'll stay in Lugo for an extra day to see the sights!View attachment 155836
Well I'm starting in Santander on the 20th so you never know we might meet up at some point. Your pictures and descriptions are really making me look forward to it.Really appreciating your sharing. My husband and I will be starting on Sept 25 in Oviedo and it is getting me very excited! Buen Camino!
Thank you so much for posting this. I start on October 5 and I’m a little nervous because the route is so desolate. I’d love to keep hearing from you.I was a bit apprehensive about getting out the door this morning, I'm not sure why. After leaving the key at the front desk I got a coffee at the restaurant next door.
With the rain persisting to fall I put on the rain cover for the backpack and left the hotel. It never occurred to me to ask for a stamp before I ventured out.
I didn't expect the cathedral to be open at such a ghastly hour (08:00) but I was hoping that the small church behind it would be. It wasn't but I did meet Francisca from Malaga and she was starting the Oviedo to Lugo route and between the two of us we located the first shell that marks the way from the cathedral. It was a little bit harder than expected.
I returned to the hotel and asked if they had a stamp and they did. So I was officially on my Camino but not before stopping for a breakfast pastry from one of the local bakeries.
Finding and following the shells out of the city is a bit like a treasure hunt. I didn't always take the right path but the locals were very helpful in pointing out the right way to go.
When you are just about out of the city there is a nice statue that remembers the very first to take the the Primitivo route.
I took lots of photos and videos for the first hour or so and would have taken more if the weather was better. I ate wild blackberries along the way before catching up with Francisca at the first capilla or small church/shrine, Capilla de Carmen. I stamped my book and put on my poncho again as the rain started up again. I left it on for the rest of the day.
Francisca and I parted ways after about an hour but not before agreeing to meet up again in Paladin for a beer. I walked ahead and enjoyed the scenery even with the continuous rain.
I arrived at Paladin around 13:40 and booked myself in, changed into dry clothes and ordered a beer. It wasn't long before others started to arrive and eventually Francisca arrived in and we had beer and a pilgrim plate for lunch.
Francisca took advantage of the break in the rain and continued on to Grado where her backpack was waiting.
After a quick, hot shower I shared the laundry machine with another pilgrim. Now that the weather has improved I'm sitting outside writing this post. It might time for another beer.
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@keenmargo, it’s not clear where you actually live or are traveling from as you have chosen to declare yourself as from “Primitivo” on your profile page. Nonetheless the Camino Primitivo is scarcely “desolate”. It is a well way marked path connecting a series of villages and small towns. There is ample provision of inexpensive accommodation, opportunities for rest and refreshments at reasonably regular intervals and the entire route runs through a friendly, civilized country.Thank you so much for posting this. I start on October 5 and I’m a little nervous because the route is so desolate. I’d love to keep hearing from you.
My friends who haven’t walked it.@keenmargo, it’s not clear where you actually live or are traveling from as you have chosen to declare yourself as from “Primitivo” on your profile page. Nonetheless the Camino Primitivo is scarcely “desolate”. It is a well way marked path connecting a series of villages and small towns. There is ample provision of inexpensive accommodation, opportunities for rest and refreshments at reasonably regular intervals and the entire route runs through a friendly, civilized country.
Perhaps you could explain where your fearful misapprehensions have originated?
Always reliable sources.My friends who haven’t walked it.
Well, let me add my voice as someone who has walked it, I would hardly call it desolate. It may not have as much infrastructure as the Frances or Portugues route from Porto, but it has plenty to meet pilgrim needs.My friends who haven’t walked it.
I’m not sure how to use the app yet. I have only read about the route
Hah. I'm now re- reading your posts, and I've got to say that, for whatever reason, the stretch into Lugo was brutal. I guess I feel better about my horrific day...?O Cádavo Baleira to Lugo
No alarm needed! My body just wakes me up now and tells me it is time to start walking.
I took advantage of the kitchen this morning and made myself an instant coffee with leche, it wasn't the same but it got me going. I wanted a little extra to get me going plus it gave me time to check the weather, send a few messages, eat my yogurt and say hi to some fellow pilgrims.
We left the pension and opted to go straight to the camino thinking there wouldn't be a long walk to the next coffee opportunity! The next coffee didn't come until Castroverde. When we arrived there were many pilgrims there and more came after us.
Leaving Castroverde can be a bit confusing if you decided to get a coffee. Head towards the church with the fountain in front and from there you will see the camino markers again.
Despite there being no big climbs most of us felt like today was harder. Some said it was because there was no big views and others said it was because of the walk from the previous day. Either way, I got to two kilometers from Lugo and couldn't go further. We stopped on a large rock group just before the bridge that crosses the highway.
Everyone, that walked by or stopped to share some food, was feeling the same, tired! We packed up just as the rain started and a walked into Lugo.
If I haven't mentioned it before, I haven't planned or booked anything for this camino. The first place we tried didn't have any single rooms left, the second didn't answer the bell and the third was Hotel Exe Puerta de San Pedro. We got a room with two beds for €65 per night including breakfast.
A shower and a 20 minute nap later I was back on the street heading to the Prime Colada laundry to wash and dry clothes. There I met Leon and Julie from England also doing chores! Thanks to them for the heads up about the high heat setting being too much! I used the lowest setting and it was just enough heat. If you want a wine or beer while waiting for the self service wash, go across the street to the bar!
I'll stay in Lugo for an extra day to see the sights!View attachment 155836
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