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I have done the Norte twice and plan on doing it again this summer. I personally believe the whole route is grand and none to be missed. It can be rugged at points but the scenery is spectacular.Hi all. Having completed the CF/ Muxia- Finisterre over 5 years, finishing in 2017, my feet are starting to get itchy again ( least I hope it's an itch and not the start of a blister!) . I'v been thinking of maybe doing part of del Norte. For those in the know, how does it compare to CF and Finisterre. I've heard that there's more road walking But more bearable temperatures in the summer And wonderful scenery . What about, for example, availability of albergues and just how much road walking. I would be going in July or August (most likely July) and walk for about a week to 10 days. As I'll be travelling from Dublin my flight options are Biarritz (for Irun), Bilbao and Santander. Has anyone any recommendations for this part of del Norte for a 7/10 day trip, and are there any not-to-be-missed sights/landmarks, in the way CF has for example Cruz de Ferro. Thanks.
Thanks H. On the CF I was averaging about 25km a day and I tend to take the alternative path when there was one, (eg, the Dragonte after Villafranca on the CF was a must for me!).To address your question about the road walking, it is hugely dependent on:
a) which section of the camino you are in
b) which alternative routes you take
The worst section for road walking is straight after Santander, where you will have several days which are largely asphalt only. However most of the Basque country and early Cantabria is mud trails.
There are often alternative routes taking you over mountains or along coastlines that avoid the asphalt. The down side to this is they may add many kilometers to your day, which not only means walking further or more stops, but also means you may easily get out of step forever with walking companions who take the faster routes.
Thanks Nathanael.I have done the Norte twice and plan on doing it again this summer. I personally believe the whole route is grand and none to be missed. It can be rugged at points but the scenery is spectacular.
I haven’t walked the CF in a long time but if you like variants then you picked the right Camino. There are variants to the variants on the Norte. It is beautiful. Especially if you like looking at the sea. It is tougher than the CF. I have heard in the summer, I walked in fall, it cN be tougher to find beds as there are not a lot of Albergues. I would think some of the private facilities would be more crowded and I would think more money because it is summer and there are lots of tourists and surfers. Although it seems the surfers in the fall were often camping.Thanks H. On the CF I was averaging about 25km a day and I tend to take the alternative path when there was one, (eg, the Dragonte after Villafranca on the CF was a must for me!).
Hi all. Having completed the CF/ Muxia- Finisterre over 5 years, finishing in 2017, my feet are starting to get itchy again ( least I hope it's an itch and not the start of a blister!) . I'v been thinking of maybe doing part of del Norte. For those in the know, how does it compare to CF and Finisterre. I've heard that there's more road walking But more bearable temperatures in the summer And wonderful scenery . What about, for example, availability of albergues and just how much road walking. I would be going in July or August (most likely July) and walk for about a week to 10 days. As I'll be travelling from Dublin my flight options are Biarritz (for Irun), Bilbao and Santander. Has anyone any recommendations for this part of del Norte for a 7/10 day trip, and are there any not-to-be-missed sights/landmarks, in the way CF has for example Cruz de Ferro. Thanks.
Thanks Peregrina2000Hi, MMcA,
The asphalt on the Norte is a force to be reckoned with. Those whose feet don’t mind asphalt are sometimes surprised to hear me complain about all the asphalt on the Norte. But I once wound up with my foot in a walking cast/boot for months after my return from the camino. I had undoubtedly exacerbated the problem by walking with a custom hard plastic orthotic. Fast forward more than 10 years, I now have a silicone orthotic, I now walk in extremely well-cushioned trail runners (no more hiking boots or shoes for me), yet I still try to find alternatives to the asphalt. You will probably come across this thread, but just in case, there is a great discussion about the various coastal alternatives on the Norte. Lots of times you can SEE the ocean from the camino as it runs along the national highway, but with just one little detour you can actually WALK along the coast. These alternatives made my most recent norte heavenly.
Since you are a repeat camino offender, it’s likely that you will return, so I would suggest starting in Irún and seeing how far you get. It’s not the most beautiful part of the Norte, IMO, but there are a couple of early coastal alternatives (particularly on day 1 from Irún) and it will give you a good introduction.
The Norte is very popular and albergues can get filled. I walked in June and we had the advantage that the tourists had not yet arrived en masse. As a result, owners of tourist facilities were happy to rent to us, and we stayed in several very nice tourist apartments for about 15 euros each. In August,you will not get that opportunity, and everything will be much more crowded. The locals obviously prefer the tourist revenue to the pilgrim´srevenue. My recommendation would be to walk as early in summer as possible, June onward.
Buen camino, Laurie
Until you get to around day 10 of the Norte, you will have no issues at all with the asphalt, I can assure you. Until about Guemes there are always non-asphalt routes which aren't much different in length than the road routes. After Santander things start to change radically. I found I couldn't do more than about 20k on these road stages because of the impact on my feet.Thanks Peregrina2000
Unfortunately due to my work schudule July is the earliest I can make it. It was the amount of asphalt I'd heard people talking about worried me so me I thought I'd try and find a bit more about it.
Thanks also for the link the that other thread.
Buen Camino, Michael
Until about Guemes there are always non-asphalt routes which aren't much different in length than the road routes.
I had the Wise Pilgrm app on my phone. It shows the alternate routes in red and the main route in blue. I've attached a screenshot of Zarautz to Deba as an example.Oh, I would LOVE to hear more about those options. I only found off-camino alternatives when the coast was nearby, but never thought to look for them to find alternatives more in the interior, essentially Deba to Portugalete. I do remember some logging forests after Markina, and some nice off road walks after the monastery at Zenarruza, but I did think the asphalt was a factor. Not nearly as bad as in Cantabria, though!
Zarautz to Getaria is a nice "costal walk" but unfortunately it is all on a paved path!
Do the Primitivo. Finish by early July.Hi all. Having completed the CF/ Muxia- Finisterre over 5 years, finishing in 2017, my feet are starting to get itchy again ( least I hope it's an itch and not the start of a blister!) . I'v been thinking of maybe doing part of del Norte. For those in the know, how does it compare to CF and Finisterre. I've heard that there's more road walking But more bearable temperatures in the summer And wonderful scenery . What about, for example, availability of albergues and just how much road walking. I would be going in July or August (most likely July) and walk for about a week to 10 days. As I'll be travelling from Dublin my flight options are Biarritz (for Irun), Bilbao and Santander. Has anyone any recommendations for this part of del Norte for a 7/10 day trip, and are there any not-to-be-missed sights/landmarks, in the way CF has for example Cruz de Ferro. Thanks.
One small tip. Irun is honestly a bit of a pit. But the walk from there to San Sebastián is one of the better days. ( do hill route for view) We stayed in San Sebastián and caught local train back to Irun early in morning. 3€. Starts early. You can leave you pack in San Sebastián just take a day pack. May the first day a lot of fun. Enjoy one more night of tapas in San Sebastián.Hi all. Having completed the CF/ Muxia- Finisterre over 5 years, finishing in 2017, my feet are starting to get itchy again ( least I hope it's an itch and not the start of a blister!) . I'v been thinking of maybe doing part of del Norte. For those in the know, how does it compare to CF and Finisterre. I've heard that there's more road walking But more bearable temperatures in the summer And wonderful scenery . What about, for example, availability of albergues and just how much road walking. I would be going in July or August (most likely July) and walk for about a week to 10 days. As I'll be travelling from Dublin my flight options are Biarritz (for Irun), Bilbao and Santander. Has anyone any recommendations for this part of del Norte for a 7/10 day trip, and are there any not-to-be-missed sights/landmarks, in the way CF has for example Cruz de Ferro. Thanks.
Hi MMcA,Hi all. Having completed the CF/ Muxia- Finisterre over 5 years, finishing in 2017, my feet are starting to get itchy again ( least I hope it's an itch and not the start of a blister!) . I'v been thinking of maybe doing part of del Norte. For those in the know, how does it compare to CF and Finisterre. I've heard that there's more road walking But more bearable temperatures in the summer And wonderful scenery . What about, for example, availability of albergues and just how much road walking. I would be going in July or August (most likely July) and walk for about a week to 10 days. As I'll be travelling from Dublin my flight options are Biarritz (for Irun), Bilbao and Santander. Has anyone any recommendations for this part of del Norte for a 7/10 day trip, and are there any not-to-be-missed sights/landmarks, in the way CF has for example Cruz de Ferro. Thanks.
I got the impression that the pilgrims weren't particularly welcome in the tourist towns because we only stayed for one night and didn't spend enough money. Also, there just isn't enough accommodation (of any description) in some places (I went in Sep 18). The Primitivo was so much better and had much more of a camino feel.
There definitely was less of a Camino spirit in most of the towns on the Norte. Unlike the small villages on the Francés that depend on the Camino for survival. I did find more appreciation for pilgrims after the split with the Primitivo and as the trail left the coast.. I got the impression that the pilgrims weren't particularly welcome in the tourist towns
Really glad to hear your view on the Norte. On my list for 2020, ThanksI have done the Norte twice and plan on doing it again this summer. I personally believe the whole route is grand and none to be missed. It can be rugged at points but the scenery is spectacular.
I agree! A beautiful hike with lots of room!I personally believe the whole route is grand and none to be missed. It can be rugged at points but the scenery is spectacular.
Lots of rain and lots of mud ... but the beauty is overwhelming...Hi all. Having completed the CF/ Muxia- Finisterre over 5 years, finishing in 2017, my feet are starting to get itchy again ( least I hope it's an itch and not the start of a blister!) . I'v been thinking of maybe doing part of del Norte. For those in the know, how does it compare to CF and Finisterre. I've heard that there's more road walking But more bearable temperatures in the summer And wonderful scenery . What about, for example, availability of albergues and just how much road walking. I would be going in July or August (most likely July) and walk for about a week to 10 days. As I'll be travelling from Dublin my flight options are Biarritz (for Irun), Bilbao and Santander. Has anyone any recommendations for this part of del Norte for a 7/10 day trip, and are there any not-to-be-missed sights/landmarks, in the way CF has for example Cruz de Ferro. Thanks.
I'd like to sound a note of "this wasn't true for me", to balance out the views. The Norte was gorgeous. The road-walking was a pain in the @*** but occasional and managable. Accommodation was occasionally tricky to find but I was never left without a bed. There was less camino community spirit, it was true, but this was compensated by a much greater sense of exploration and adventure, and being exposed to beautiful wild forces of nature. I never felt for a moment unwelcome at any place, and in fact some of the most amazingly hospitable and unique donotivo albergues in Spain are only found on the Norte. Food on the Norte was a level better (and often cheaper) than on the Frances.Sorry to be a misery guts. Some people had a different experience but for me (and my group) it wasn't good. I would recommend doing the Primitivo instead.
Simon.
Thanks cbacino.Do the Primitivo. Finish by early July.
Thanks Shippers.Hi MMcA,
I did the Norte up to the the Primitivo and followed the Primitivo into SdC. For me and everyone else in my group of 6 the Norte got better the further west we went. There was just too much road walking on busy roads compared to the CF. I got the impression that the pilgrims weren't particularly welcome in the tourist towns because we only stayed for one night and didn't spend enough money. Also, there just isn't enough accommodation (of any description) in some places (I went in Sep 18). The Primitivo was so much better and had much more of a camino feel.
Sorry to be a misery guts. Some people had a different experience but for me (and my group) it wasn't good. I would recommend doing the Primitivo instead.
Simon.
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