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Ah ha, you should have seen it in 2005On my second Camino Frances, and it's been 9 years.
The single biggest surprise has been Foncebadon. Oh my goodness, what a transformation since 2014. It's gone from a small collection of buildings, some still ruins being resurrected, with a stony track up the centre.
It's now a collection of elegant stone buildings, which include what might be the best general store I've seen in Spain.
We ate at the Albergue Gaia and had a fantastic venison stew, and the biggest delicious hamburger ever.
Some may mourn the passing of the eery, quirky old Foncebadon, but this current version is a hamlet full of quality businesses, doing things with a lot of love.
Thanks @Anitra A friend of mine spoke glowingly of Foncebadon when she walked the Frances a few years ago. I was last there in 2013 and her description in no way matched my memory. At the time I wondered if she was confusing it with somewhere else.On my second Camino Frances, and it's been 9 years.
The single biggest surprise has been Foncebadon. Oh my goodness, what a transformation since 2014. It's gone from a small collection of buildings, some still ruins being resurrected, with a stony track up the centre.
It's now a collection of elegant stone buildings, which include what might be the best general store I've seen in Spain.
We ate at the Albergue Gaia and had a fantastic venison stew, and the biggest delicious hamburger ever.
Some may mourn the passing of the eery, quirky old Foncebadon, but this current version is a hamlet full of quality businesses, doing things with a lot of love.
As did Shirley Maclaine and Nancy Louise Frey around that time. They both describe it as a bleak, remote wilderness haunted by packs of stray dogs. Even by the time we passed through in 2018 it had been transformed into a bustling, thriving little community (and the dogs were gone). People often complain about the commercialisation of the camino but another way of looking at that is to accept that the camino has revitalised a lot of villages and communities along the route in areas that would otherwise be depopulated and depressed.I passed through Foncebadon in 1990 when only one building was occupied
Buen camino! This is why we also try to promote some of the alternative caminos, not only do you have more contact with local people, you can subsidise the bars and cafés that keep the communities alive. Plus you get to visit even more parts of an amazing country.As a curiosity, I'll be beggining my next but not last Camino on June the 22nd, exactly from Foncebadon!!
On my second Camino Frances, and it's been 9 years.
The single biggest surprise has been Foncebadon. Oh my goodness, what a transformation since 2014. It's gone from a small collection of buildings, some still ruins being resurrected, with a stony track up the centre.
It's now a collection of elegant stone buildings, which include what might be the best general store I've seen in Spain.
We ate at the Albergue Gaia and had a fantastic venison stew, and the biggest delicious hamburger ever.
Some may mourn the passing of the eery, quirky old Foncebadon, but this current version is a hamlet full of quality businesses, doing things with a lot of love.
Possibly Shirley walked through there in 1960 and those mad dogs are now resting in peace.In 2001 Foncebadon was run down.
Having read Shirley MacLaine’s book prior to setting off on initial Camino; I spent the night in Rabanal quaking in fear awaiting her mad dogs of Foncebadon.
Following morning no dogs, and nothing much else either.
On my next camino I may spend a night there instead of Rabanal.
I had the same surprise when re-visiting Foncebadon in 2017, the changes since my first Camino in 2008 were quite amazing!On my second Camino Frances, and it's been 9 years.
The single biggest surprise has been Foncebadon. Oh my goodness, what a transformation since 2014. It's gone from a small collection of buildings, some still ruins being resurrected, with a stony track up the centre.
It's now a collection of elegant stone buildings, which include what might be the best general store I've seen in Spain.
We ate at the Albergue Gaia and had a fantastic venison stew, and the biggest delicious hamburger ever.
Some may mourn the passing of the eery, quirky old Foncebadon, but this current version is a hamlet full of quality businesses, doing things with a lot of love.
una mochila en la cama?There are other places that have blossomed like Foncebadón. In her book What The Psychic told the Pilgrim, Jane Christmas talks about the dismal pub and its owner in Redecilla. Since the publication of her book, that dismal place, now a pub/one-star hotel has been purchased by Lourdes who runs the business with smiles and efficiency and the help of her employee Christian. The rooms are affordable, beautifully decorated and comfortable with modern bathrooms... things change. In The Camino is not just for Walking, you can read about Redecilla as it is now. Quite a change. Indeed, our meagre dollars and other currencies are helping a bit.
Possibly Shirley walked through there in 1960 and those mad dogs are now resting in peace.
Yes, that's how I remember it in 2014 also!View attachment 149556
I digged up an old photo album. I took this picture in August 2014. This is what I wrote:
Foncebadón is deserted from everything, on a plateau where a chill wind blows. The only road in the village is a dirt track. There are about 15 buildings, of wich 4 or 5 are an albergue. There is a shop, a restaurant, a single house and some ruins. No wifi. An interesting contrast with the touristy infrastructure on this route. The village would most likely have ceased to exist if the Camino Francés wouldn't have started its second flowering about 20 years ago.
In 2008, I recall only one albergue in the village! But I fell in love with the place and was so excited to return in 2017 and witness the changes.View attachment 149556
I digged up an old photo album. I took this picture in August 2014. This is what I wrote:
Foncebadón is deserted from everything, on a plateau where a chill wind blows. The only road in the village is a dirt track. There are about 15 buildings, of wich 4 or 5 are an albergue. There is a shop, a restaurant, a single house and some ruins. No wifi. An interesting contrast with the touristy infrastructure on this route. The village would most likely have ceased to exist if the Camino Francés wouldn't have started its second flowering about 20 years ago.
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