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Buen Camino!I will be arriving in Seville on March 3 and then starting to walk on the 4th.
So you are back on the trail, really enjoyed following you on instagram and here last time. You probably will catch up with me, I’m back next week continuing from Casar. I’ ll look out for a happy penguinGreat news! Albergue Municipal in Castiblanco just reopened after a few years break. Not sure if still as donativo but will find out tomorrow passing by it.
I also recommend Hostel Italica if someone wishes to take a half a day walk from Seville (like I just did). 16 euro. Coffee and tea, cotton sheets and towel included
I think I will be following the stages I placed on the map I made (tinyurl.com/Penguinplata) so you can estimate when we will see each otherSo you are back on the trail, really enjoyed following you on instagram and here last time. You probably will catch up with me,
The stream between Santiponce and Guillena is full of muddy water so look for a steel beam on the right (and test your vertigo)
I had wondered whether the beam was still the way across. I was very nervous coming up to that spot on 7 April 2019 - I just shuffled across ok though. There were a few amigos coming up behind me. Two pics below from April 2019 show the beam then plus looking back after crossing.I wonder if you would repost a picture of the stream crossing before Guillena. I remember shimmy-ing across a branch a couple of times, but that sounds like more fun that walking across a beam!
I'm planning a shorter distance today and I'll try to post some more pictures and more info in the afternoon. Freezing here in Monesterio (Extremadura) at night: 2 degrees Celsius = 36 F.Enjoying this thread a lot, HP!
I wonder if you would repost a picture of the stream crossing before Guillena
I can see storks on every bell tower, like here in Fuente de CantosWhen you pass the church, the one with the blue checkered roof, see if the storks are still there.
The're storks. Certainly not larks.Maybe those are not storks?
Grf. Confusing. Gracias!Follow the horseshoe on the top.
San Isidro Chapel 2.0 before Monesterio
Errr.Follow the horseshoe on the top.
The original (now emply) San Isidro Chapel is at the place where newly built highway restricted easy access to it. You walk by it, soon after you pass the Complejo Leo half way between El Real and Monesterio This is why I named the new one '2.0'Wow, what planet did that thing come from? And I thought the Capilla near Covarrubias on the San Olav was bad.
Yep I mentioned it as well in my postErrr.That "horseshoe" is the Arco de Caparra
Thanks for these posts and updates Happypenguin. What are you using for warmth at night? Sleeping bag or small blanket? I'll be there in a under a month and wondering if my "costco" small duvet type blanket is enough or if I should bring an actual sleeping bag.I'm planning a shorter distance today and I'll try to post some more pictures and more info in the afternoon. Freezing here in Monesterio (Extremadura) at night: 2 degrees Celsius = 36 F.
Update:walking out of Monesterio.
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I edited out some politically sensitive thoughts from the post.
Thanks for this info/warning.Extremadurian cubes
I explained it in my previous post but today I found supporting case. It is important that you don't assume that vertical yellow stripe shows direction where to go. It is the symbol of Caparra on the top that determines the direction. Look here.
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If you don't pay attention seeing this cube you may continue to go straight ahead (because of yellow stripe). In fact, you are supposed to turn left.
And now look what is on the other side of cube:View attachment 119887
It's a proof that yellow stripes are not Camino marks. Follow the horseshoe on the top.
Hi, I think in a month it will be very warm. It is still winter here. April is very nice and beautiful in the South of Spain. At this moment at night I am using a typical cheap decathlon sleeping bag but it is not enough. I usually sleep in some of my clothes and use blankets. They seem to be everywhere I slept in, unfortunately they are not clean. But you can make an igloo with them, my Eskimo neighbors do it. Look how nice igloo I made here at Valdesalor albergue.What are you using for warmth at night? Sleeping bag or small blanket? I'll be there in a under a month and wondering if my "costco" small duvet type blanket is enough or if I should bring an actual sleeping bag.
Hi, I think in a month it will be very warm. It is still winter here. April is very nice and beautiful in the South of Spain. At this moment at night I am using a typical cheap decathlon sleeping bag but it is not enough. I usually sleep in some of my clothes and use blankets. They seem to be everywhere I slept in, unfortunately they are not clean. But you can make an igloo with them, my Eskimo neighbors do it. Look how nice igloo I made here at Valdesalor albergue.
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(inside)
When I leave I fold the blanket nicely and bring back where I took them from.
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Update: 9:00 and still raining. Do humans walk when it is raining?
wow.. thanks for the detailed reply with photos! That sure looks quite wet! I hope you get dried out soonHi, I think in a month it will be very warm. It is still winter here. April is very nice and beautiful in the South of Spain. At this moment at night I am using a typical cheap decathlon sleeping bag but it is not enough. I usually sleep in some of my clothes and use blankets. They seem to be everywhere I slept in, unfortunately they are not clean. But you can make an igloo with them, my Eskimo neighbors do it. Look how nice igloo I made here at Valdesalor albergue.
View attachment 120220View attachment 120221
(inside)
When I leave I fold the blankets nicely and bring back where I took them from.
View attachment 120224
Update: 9:00 and still raining. Do humans walk when it is raining?
Update 16:00 I started walking at 10:00 and didn't get a drop of rain! Although there were many puddles on the way.
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Thank you so much for your summary. Will add snacks to bring along this stage for sure.. thanks.I just finished the first 300 km of the VdlP
With one exception - slept in Valdesalor instead of Aldea del Cano - I follow the map I prepared.
Places where I stayed (continued).
1. Fuente de Cantos to Torremejía
- From Calzadilla de los Barros I went to La Almazara, a beautiful and warm albergue (literally and hospitalera is great), in an amazing place. Modern albergue in an ancient olive oil factory. I highly recommend it as an alternative to Villafranca.15 euro, supper 8.50 very tasty but not filling. I wished I ate or brought some food from the previous town (los Santos)
- From La Almazara to Torremejia, very flat and easy but very monotonous stage. Respect for those purists who don't take any music with them on the Camino. I couldn't. Stayed in hostal Millenium, pilgrim price 20 euro. Supermarket right next to it.
- Torremejia via Merida to Aljucen. Noisy before Merida, beautiful lake and a park on the way to Aljucen. Albergue 12 euro, menu at the bar (called a special of the day) 10 euro, again, tasty but not filling.
- Aljucen to Valdesalor, I extended my initial plan to walk to Aldea del Cano and went another 11 km to Valdesalor to get closer to Caceres. Albergue Municipal 6 euro, quite okay for this price. Food in Hogar de Pensionista where we register and get the key.
- Valdesalor via Caceres to Casar de Caceres, staying in a private room at Albergue Rural in Casar de Cáceres. Room 26 euro but worth it. Spacious and modern.
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2. Torremejia to Mérida
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3. Stork nests on the aqueduct in Mérida
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4. Aljucén
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5. Aljucén to Alcuescar
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6. On the way to Cruce de las Herrerias
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Another wonderful day unfolding on Via de la Plata! Picture taken at sunrise out of Casar heading towards Alcantara lake
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The rain that drenched early-starters* yesterday morning is a distant history now!
Update. 7,5 km from Casar I met those two cuties. They are superfriendly and big. Could they be the dogs @Pawel was talking about? They're harmless and want to play
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Update 10 am. These rock formations 14 km from Casar are mindblowing!
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Possibly they were formed before Roman Empire, maybe during the Ice Age?
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__________________
* Happywatched the downpour from a window of Valdesalor albergue and started to walk at 10 am not getting a drop of rain More details in my posts above
Lovely park. Could do without Calvary hill at the end of it thoughView attachment 119778⁹Park Sierra Norte between Castilblanco and Almaden
Finally I figured our what I was doing wrong with pictures. When you upload a picture it appears TWICE and you are not supposed to delete the other one. Which I did because I thought I uploaded it twice. I don't know why it is appearing twice though...
Great practical tips for pilgrims there. Thanks for your photos. I did this section of the VdlP two years ago before COVID and the photos are great to seeSo I have walked first 132 km of VdlP from Wednesday to Sunday today. I think those walking here now have quite unusually cold weather as for Southern Spain, but at least we are not getting any rain. Days are sunny with maybe 12-15 C and at night the temperature drops to nearly zero. So be warned because I wish I had more warm clothes.
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The number of pilgrims is low (at least that's my experience). Met total of 4 and this hasn't changed today. If I get to Villafranca tomorrow (38 km) I may catch up with some pilgrims who started a day before me.
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(give a wide berth to a cow like this)
Places where I stayed.
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- Santiponce Hostel Italica. 16 euro. I can recommend if someone wants to get out of Seville in the afternoon or spend a day visiting Roman artifacts (is that a word? heard it in Narnia)
- Castilblanco - stayed in Casa Salvadora which gives nice family feeling. Recommended. Now the price is 15 euro + 2 optional for heating or AC
- Castilblanco Albergue Municipal Donativo. I like that place stayed there a few years ago. I remember sleeping on a mattress on a terrace under blue sky!
- Almaden. Visited albergue municipal, is clean and nice as it always have been, Recommended. Myself I stayed in Casa Concha which I also like and it has heating. Unfortunately I can't recommend "menu" there. Almost got sick. Please eat in town.
- El Real de la Jara, only passed that town, worth noting that Molina is open, between the albergue at the entrance and Molina I would take Molina. But for those with higher budget, I can recommend Mari Carmen, and good food at Meson Cochera
- Monesterio, stayed in hostal Extremadura and it was very cold. I recommend but not now. Maybe April. Noisy bar downstairs. Both albergues in Monasterio are open and I like both.
- Fuente de Cantos, I just stopped in Casa Victoria for a coffee and already knew this is not my place to stay (15 euro). Kind of macho feeling, only very loud men in the bar so I continued to...
- Calzadilla de los Barros and I am staying in hostal Rodriguez. I have my room but it is cold. Very run down place. Room cost 15 euro, menu 10, laundry 3 euro, so I washed almost all I have with me for the coming week. Food for the menu was good, but the owner (serving food) was
rudegrumpy. I don't know if I would be glad to come back here. But there is few alternatives around.
Quite interestingly, I finished first 132 km and spent 131 euro. So perfect 1 euro/km fare. But I often buy food in supermarkets. For most of pilgrims this ratio would be probably hard to keep. But I am pretty sure it is still possible.
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Photo: San Isidro Chapel 2.0 before Monesterio
To be continued.
On this section from Grimaldo to Galisteo I saw a group of about 10 deer in the early section. It was amazing to hear them galloping through the park land, then suddenly stop when they saw me, before galloping on again.Another super sunny day on Via de la Plata !
I am walking towards Galisteo trying to spot that tame deer that @Sunopo saw here yesterday
I have to wear a different hat today as I already burned my penguin ears walking in the sun a few days ago
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I saw just a moment ago entire carcass of a sheepOn this section from Grimaldo to Galisteo I saw a group of about 10 deer in the early section. It was amazing to hear them galloping through the park land, then suddenly stop when they saw me, before galloping on again.
Hola,Hi HP!
Thank you for your updates.
We start (wife and I) in a couple of days.
Can you tell something about the availability of the kitchens in the albergues/hostels? Are they still closed mostly or open?
As I have diabetes eating out every day is not so healthy and I prefer to cook myself as much as possible.
Thnx and B. C.
Exactly my feelings. It has just the right amount of adventure without danger.The Camino is amazing and I recommend Via de la Plata to anyone who wants to discover something totally different from Camino Frances, and test their endurance and enjoy the spirit of adventure!
Hola,Can you tell something about the availability of the kitchens in the albergues/hostels? Are they still closed mostly or open?
Thank you @darcelona for this list, you really did a good job, you were certainly more perceptive than meHola,
I started Feb 28 from Sevilla. I've stayed in a mix of accommodation, but these are the cooking facilities I know about:
Guillena (Camino del Luz): kitchen open to use. I didn't cook in it but other pilgrims did. No heat in Albergue but blanket provided.
El Real de la Jara (Alojamiento Molina): basic but acceptable kitchen with gas stove, pots, pans, utensils, dishes and had olive oil and salt too. No heat in albergue though, but they had a stack of blankets.
Monesterio (Parrochial Albergue): fully outfitted kitchen (no grater tho) with extensive amount of spices, staples like rice and pasta left from other pilgrims presumably, beer and coke in fridge (1 euro each). Grocery store is very close.
Galisteo (Albergue Turistico): kitchen available but very limited. Only microwave. No dishes, not even a mug.
Oliva da Plasencia (CASA RURAL /SAN BLAS): beautiful old house that has been restored. Great kitchen with everything you need including some spices and oil.
Aldeanueva del Camino (Albergue La Casa de mi Abuela): basic kitchen for cooking with only essentials like a two burner hotplate and microwave. Has a vending machine with some processed food items if you don't have other options. Great albergue over all.
Pedrosilla de los Aires (albergue): kitchen area, but no facilities to cook.
Hope this helps... Buen Camino!
Did you see Alan Syke's account?even considering extending this Camino so that it takes longer to reach Santiago. I will probably make decisions in Benavente.
A wonderful read. Thank youGreetings from Benavente! That's about 645-650 km from Seville. In two days I should be in Astorga where Via de la Plata merges with Camino Frances.
A short summary of my spending, during the 20 days which took me to get here I spent 542 euro which makes 27.10 euro per day or about 0.84 euro per km. I don't spend much money on food. I also don't drink alcohol during this pilgrimage. That's why the cost of my Camino is fairly low. I prefer to have a private room every other day rather than experience Spanish cuisine. There will be another time for that. I try to treat Camino with respect and clearly the Camino treats me the same way. I also don't use any transport and I absolutely don't judge others who do it. The rules I made are for me and for me only.
Via de la Plata, Seville to Astorga, compared to northern Caminos, Frances, Norte, Primitivo, is a very flat Camino. It has those two bumps at the beginning in Andalusia, but they are like 100-150 meters high, and there is no way to compare it for example with climbing o Cebreiro or 1300 vertical meters on the way from Saint Jean PdP. That is why I do long stages, and I believe most of forum members could do them as well. Except for my first warm up 10 km stage to Hotel Italica, majority of my stages were longer than 30 km. Even today I was planning an easy day but I left a hat on the Camino and did 3 extra km to pick it up!
In Merida I met two ladies from Austria, one of them I am guessing in mid 70s, the other one in late 60s and yesterday I walked with them to Granja de Moreruela, which is 400 km north of Merida, they were doing almost exactly the same stages like me, including several 40 km ones. So age is not an issue for making long stages on VdlP but wrong mindset often brought from C.F. is. Via de la Plata is not a Camino where you walk until lunch and the rest of day spend socializing. Almost nobody does that. This is the Camino that offers so much natural beauty and let you immerse so deeply into what it has to offer, that spending one afternoon after another imbibing countless glasses of vino tinto is just out of place here. People come here to walk, and as you know there is no luggage transport on most of the VdlP, which brings a certain feeling of equality of pilgrims, each of us carrying our belongings, something lost on the Camino Frances many years ago.
I know that those planning to come here love to read all kind of details, where to eat, where to sleep, when the bar opens etc. I feel providing too much details is taking away the fun and excitement of discovery. Of course it is important to tell others if there is something dangerous, or of some recent changes on the Camino, but the more I walk, the more i want to see the Camino as it really is, not through the eyes of other people. And I encourage you to try the same. I love to read forum posts before going on the Camino as they bring this special mood, but there is nothing better than just arrive to Seville, make your first step going north, and the rest will be revealed to you at the right time in the right place.
Gee. What am I even writing about? Wanted to make a recap of the last stages and instead I wrote some weird essay.
I'll better have a dinner in my hostel la Trucha before even the Spanish will go to sleep
Buen Camino!
Photo: road to Benavente that I walked today. Does it look real to you? It's not a photoshopped image, the VdlP can be as surreal as it gets.
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and where would this be? Great fun following your posts!Well it seems I made another mistake because it turned out that the numbers on those new milestones (mojones) which I found in Astorga are supposed to go down, not up! That's different because the numbers on millarios (milestones on VdlP) were going up as I was going
north. So I walked for a day and half from Astorga and found myself in another place that looks like Disneyland! I will have to find another way to Santiago from here
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This is where I ended up!
This is where I ended up!
Thank you for this great solution but HappyMaybe bus ahead to Ponferada and take the Invierno?
Hoping to find some people walking to Astorga on the VdlP. Everyone we have met so far are going to Santiago following the Sanabres wayI felt like you on the Plata...I also walked to Astorga.....thank you and enjoy
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