UnniElisabeth
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- Time of past OR future Camino
- Camino Frances
Camino Sanabres
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Yes, there is some asphalt walking but 95% on minor roads. You hardly see more than 3 cars per hourHow was the albergues ? Did you have a lot of asphalt walking? I heard that they are building a new Highway in the same region, did it make problems for you? Grateful for your advice!
Not sure if the following, which are my notes from walking the Sanabrés might help, though hope that it might :Looking for advice and please share your experiences ! Plan to start C Sanabres 18th of June.
I have walked Camino Frances from SJPDP (2013) and Camino Portuguese from Porto ( 2017). This year I plan to walk Camino Frances from SJPDP to Astorga, and move Sanabres for the rest of my pilgrimage to Santiago. Can you give me some good advice about this route ?
Having done the Sanabres route twice, in 2016 and 2018, and taking the Laza route and stopping in Lalin, I agree with Juans comments..an accurate account of that walk....arduous in parts but worth it.Hey Elisabeth,
I cycled that camino in... 2018? There are enough motorways around, but they are still finishing the Hi Speed Railway at some parts. That was the reason for getting extra asphalt at that time—not that there wasn't enough. I really used a lot of blacktop in that journey, although I am pretty sure there must be more unpaved roads up to Alberguería than the ones I did. There are indeed after that stop and Orense too.
Josefus gave you good advice too about the climbs—Padornelo being the toughest.
The Sanabrés is not the main choice and so it is both calmed, solitary and it will make you feel both lonesome and somehow free. I got some tips from the bottom of my rucksack...
It's likely that you will find yourself alone for long stretches and in many of the lodging facilities you will use. Make sure they are open the day of your arrival to avoid surprises.
- From Astorga to San Cristóbal or Benavente you are walking the Vía de la Plata backwards for 60 km. La Bañeza is a large town half the way and the public swimming complex is really impressive and calm. You should consider staying overnight at La Bañeza and either of the former, as you might not find pilgrim's lodging from there to Santa Marta de Tera (38 Km). The hostel in Santa Marta is modern, should be tidy and comfortable still.
- All along the river Tera and as far as Requejo you will find riverside beaches and pools in almost every town. Usually great places to rest.
- At Gudiña, you will have to decide which way to go—either through Verín or Campobecerros-Laza-Alberguería—. I can vouch for the latter as great from every point of view, but you will have to plan spending your nights both in Campobecerros and Laza—the Camino lodging here was very good too.
- Once you arrive Alberguería there are no more climbs until exactly the day you leave Orense. At Orense you will find thermal springs—there are both public and private facilities. No way you can miss those!
- From the biggest climb right after Orense to Lalín, and then to Santiago, it's pure Galicia: rolling hills, one after another, good food, cheap prices... I loved to stay at Lalín (private hostel, ran by very welcoming family at that time, clean and calm.
Have a very pleasant camino!
Juan
Hi, I totally agree with what Josefus said in his reply. Attached is a photo I took on the Sanabres in April of 2016 on the way to Lubian. You won't come uponLooking for advice and please share your experiences ! Plan to start C Sanabres 18th of June.
I have walked Camino Frances from SJPDP (2013) and Camino Portuguese from Porto ( 2017). This year I plan to walk Camino Frances from SJPDP to Astorga, and move Sanabres for the rest of my pilgrimage to Santiago. Can you give me some good advice about this route ?
The albergue in Castro Dozón is closed and won't open during this year as it is undergoing renovations. There are few other alternatives.Yes, there is some asphalt walking but 95% on minor roads. You hardly see more than 3 cars per hour.
As Juandemor told the highway will not bother you much and AVE works are nearly finishing. So the problems from there will be minor ( if any).
I stood in the following albuerges (beginning out of Zamora):
Montamarta - Basic but OK , and a bit outside of the village
Granja de Moruela - Basic but OK
Tábara - Fine
Santa Marta de Tera - Fine
Rio Negro del Puente - Fine
The next “Port of Call” should have been Asturianos. Very small Albuerge in Polydeportivo. Very Basic, was overfilled. I refused to stay and took a taxi to Puebla de Sanabria. - Fine albuerge
Lubián - OK
A Gudiña - Found it not so good but I heard they built a new one.
Campobecerros - Basic but OK
Albuergeria - Epic place. Was not in a good state when I was there. But I heard the owner renovated it and it just reopened ( check beforehand)
Xunquera de Ambia - was in a private albuerge in the center because the public albuerge (told to be good) was a bit outside
Ourense - stood 2 days in a hotel. (The thermal springs are a must)
Céa - OK
Castro de Dozón - Fine
Sillleda - Was in a private albuerge (OK) because parroquial was closed at that time.
Outero - Fine albuerge, but in the middle of nowhere. Take enough food for the evening and the next (and last) day with you. From there it’s just an easy 16- km walk to Santiago.
Ultreia
Thank you for information !The albergue in Castro Dozón is closed and won't open during this year as it is undergoing renovations. There are few other alternatives.
Thank you so much! I now know that I don’t have to worry about the asphalt roads and highway constructions. Very useful information about the accommodations too. I’m looking forward to my Camino, and very grateful for your advice!Yes, there is some asphalt walking but 95% on minor roads. You hardly see more than 3 cars per hour.
As Juandemor told the highway will not bother you much and AVE works are nearly finishing. So the problems from there will be minor ( if any).
I stood in the following albuerges (beginning out of Zamora):
Montamarta - Basic but OK , and a bit outside of the village
Granja de Moruela - Basic but OK
Tábara - Fine
Santa Marta de Tera - Fine
Rio Negro del Puente - Fine
The next “Port of Call” should have been Asturianos. Very small Albuerge in Polydeportivo. Very Basic, was overfilled. I refused to stay and took a taxi to Puebla de Sanabria. - Fine albuerge
Lubián - OK
A Gudiña - Found it not so good but I heard they built a new one.
Campobecerros - Basic but OK
Albuergeria - Epic place. Was not in a good state when I was there. But I heard the owner renovated it and it just reopened ( check beforehand)
Xunquera de Ambia - was in a private albuerge in the center because the public albuerge (told to be good) was a bit outside
Ourense - stood 2 days in a hotel. (The thermal springs are a must)
Céa - OK
Castro de Dozón - Fine
Sillleda - Was in a private albuerge (OK) because parroquial was closed at that time.
Outero - Fine albuerge, but in the middle of nowhere. Take enough food for the evening and the next (and last) day with you. From there it’s just an easy 16- km walk to Santiago.
Ultreia
There is however a casa rural near Cea which will come and collect you in the car and return you there the next day for 9 euros. It's called alojamiento Pazos.The albergue in Castro Dozón is closed and won't open during this year as it is undergoing renovations. There are few other alternatives.
Day 14: Ourense - stayed in Ourense
Day 15: Ourense - San Cristovo de Cea
Started walking at 6:30am arrival at 12:11pm
Recorded distance 24.26kms / 29514 steps walked
Another of those days that started so well, with coffee and the most fantastic toast at the Cafeteria Niza, which was already open as we passed at a little after 6am. IMHO, this was the breakfast start to the day that merits the Breakfast of the Camino award, and if you believe that all toast is equal, then you have not been here (Cafeteria Niza, Progresso 64). A great breakfast is always a good start to the day, and this was no exception. We once again headed across the lovely bridge and out of Ourense. We were then confronted with two options for continuing the Camino - turn right or continue straight ahead. Turning right is via Cudeiro, while continuing ahead is via Mandrás. We chose to continue walking straight ahead, and the rather long and quite steep climb on road up to Mandrás. This was quite a challenging first day for my wife. Having had such a good breakfast before leaving Ourense, we did not stop at Casa César in O Reguengo, but did stop for a coffee at the bar in Mandras, before passing through Casanova, where we were able to buy a large loaf of Cea bread directly from the baker, and then shortly later finishing in Cea itself. This was one of the few Albergues that ticked most of my personal boxes : an historic building, very sympathetically converted, located close to the centre and a kitchen that was equipped with the basics. A very sympathetic Hospitalero with a love for the Camino oversaw the place, though the negative was that the interior warranted a deep cleaning, while at an early hour in the morning, at 5.40am, the lights within the dormitory automatically came on, though a quite soft light, mercifully, as we were 'sleeping-in-late'!
Day 16: San Cristovo de Cea - Monasterio de Oseira
Started walking at 8:25am arrival at 12:11pm
Recorded distance 11.81kms / 14896 steps walked
One of those poor decisions was to go to the Bar/Cafe Sol y Luna in Cea, which had promoted that it provided early morning breakfast to peregrinos. After the phenomenal early breakfast that we had enjoyed in Ourense, this was a let down. Slow in arriving, the coffee was ordinary, the toast as hard as a board and the jam was mostly syrup. And not cheap - so strongly advise ignoring this place. With such a short day, we did not walk at a strong pace, and passed beautiful scenery as we headed to the Monasterio de Oseira. The Albuergue is run by the monastery, and is quite spartan, but what it may lack in comfort is made up for the beauty of the Monasterio, the warmth of the welcome of the Hospitalero and the location. And how often is one able to sleep the night within what was once a large chapel. The place is incredible and enormous - we were told that it is the second largest Monastery in Spain. We felt totally privileged to be staying here and to be able to join with the few monks that currently live at the Monasterio for their morning and evening service. This detour was, we strongly felt, very worthwhile, though when we were there the eating possibilities at the two nearby bars was limited to bocadillos.
Day 17: Monasterio de Oseira - A Laxe
Started walking at 6:01am arrival at 15:11pm
Recorded distance 34.17kms / 43774 steps walked
This was a much longer walking day then that which was expected, with a few deviations for the construction of the AVE, and the final part of the walk to A Laxe seemed to take for ever. The sello from the Albergue in the Credencial states Albergue de Lalin, but this seemed quite removed from the town of Lalin. I was also told that it is known as Albuergue de Bendoiro. The Albergue has a stunning architectural design, combining very harmoniously the varies materials used in the construction. The place is enormous, and the interior is quite impractical, with huge areas for sitting in, but the dormitories relatively small. We were exhausted and wanted a late siesta, though my deep sleep and dream were soon broken by some major commotion downstairs. I descended to see what was happening, to find that one of the large rest areas had been taken over by a children's dance class. There is "Mariá José", a bar/restaurant about half a kilometre or so away from the Albergue, or the much longer walk of about 2 or more kms to get to Bar/Supermercado Xeitoso in the direction of Santiso. I chose to go to the latter, and stock up on food to prepare our supper at the Albergue, which had an enormous kitchen. The real challenges of this incredibly poorly and strangely located Albergue were to be discovered during the night, when we were all seriously bitten by quite vicious mosquitoes.
Day 18: A Laxe - Outeiro (Vedra)
Started walking at 7:02am arrival at 17:42pm
Recorded distance 42.31kms / 53141 steps walked
The distance recorded reflects some doubling back by myself, as I had left the wife and daughter to walk together, and walked ahead before walking back to join them. We had a damp start to the day, with what we were told were the first rains to fall since late May. After the many long days of heat and more heat, the rain was very welcome, and it felt strange to be finally using our ponchos. We stopped for a good coffee in the very recently opened Bar Gerardo, located about 50metres before the Church of Santiago de Taboada. An unusual church, which opens most days at 9.00am for peregrinos to visit. While the church would be hard to miss, one needs to look for the Bar Gerardo, which is located immediately on the right after climbing the path, which emerges onto the road just before the Church. There was a need to use the ATM in Silleda, before continuing the descent to Bandeiro and the stronger descent to Pont Ulla. At Pont Ulla, on the path that leads to the bridge, carefully look out on the path for the very small frogs, about the size of a 1€ coin. There is a choice between a private Albergue in Pont Ulla or ascending to the Albergue in Outeiro. Having been advised that it was best to take food with us, we stocked up in the large Dia supermarket before the final stretch leading to the Albergue. Oh my goodness, another architectural jewel, strangely located and with a Hospitalera, Pilar, who we later learned had a reputation that was not positive, and who was fretting in the extreme as wet peregrinos entered. She appears to be operating the Albergue as a personal fiefdom and commercial venture, preparing supper for the captive peregrinos who have almost all arrived with little or nothing to eat. And once again, we were all woken by the automatic lighting coming on at 5:45am, though unlike in Cea, this time it was a direct and harsh light. Major upset for everyone, as we were all solidly asleep.
Day 19: Outeiro (Vedra) - Santiago de Compestella
Started walking at 6.25am arrival at Santiago at
Recorded distance 20.08kms / 26329 steps walked
Hello Elisabeth, I think June will be a good time do hike the Sanabres. I’ve been there in April 2018. And yes, had some snow when passing the Padornelo pass.
The landscape is fine, the track now is well marked and the infrastructure for pilgrims is quite good (well, not comparable with the France).
There are only three or maybe four significant climbs: The Padornelo, the next day from Lubián to the Galician border (maybe then again the next day from A Gudina to Campobecerros and maybe the last part to Albergeria and maybe the first part of the stage from Orense to César). OK, now there are more than three. But that’s nothing to be afraid of.
I’m sure you will love it.
Ultreia
Thank very much you for your advice! Hopefully no snowHi, I totally agree with what Josefus said in his reply. Attached is a photo I took on the Sanabres in April of 2016 on the way to Lubian. You won't come upon
snow in June, but it could be hot before you really get into Galicia. Buen Camino.
View attachment 122799
Thank you for sharing your notes and experiences. This is very useful for my planning and l will go through my plan for the route, and compare it with your notes. Anything you would change if you plan for another Camino here?Day 14: Ourense - stayed in Ourense
Day 15: Ourense - San Cristovo de Cea
Started walking at 6:30am arrival at 12:11pm
Recorded distance 24.26kms / 29514 steps walked
Another of those days that started so well, with coffee and the most fantastic toast at the Cafeteria Niza, which was already open as we passed at a little after 6am. IMHO, this was the breakfast start to the day that merits the Breakfast of the Camino award, and if you believe that all toast is equal, then you have not been here (Cafeteria Niza, Progresso 64). A great breakfast is always a good start to the day, and this was no exception. We once again headed across the lovely bridge and out of Ourense. We were then confronted with two options for continuing the Camino - turn right or continue straight ahead. Turning right is via Cudeiro, while continuing ahead is via Mandrás. We chose to continue walking straight ahead, and the rather long and quite steep climb on road up to Mandrás. This was quite a challenging first day for my wife. Having had such a good breakfast before leaving Ourense, we did not stop at Casa César in O Reguengo, but did stop for a coffee at the bar in Mandras, before passing through Casanova, where we were able to buy a large loaf of Cea bread directly from the baker, and then shortly later finishing in Cea itself. This was one of the few Albergues that ticked most of my personal boxes : an historic building, very sympathetically converted, located close to the centre and a kitchen that was equipped with the basics. A very sympathetic Hospitalero with a love for the Camino oversaw the place, though the negative was that the interior warranted a deep cleaning, while at an early hour in the morning, at 5.40am, the lights within the dormitory automatically came on, though a quite soft light, mercifully, as we were 'sleeping-in-late'!
Day 16: San Cristovo de Cea - Monasterio de Oseira
Started walking at 8:25am arrival at 12:11pm
Recorded distance 11.81kms / 14896 steps walked
One of those poor decisions was to go to the Bar/Cafe Sol y Luna in Cea, which had promoted that it provided early morning breakfast to peregrinos. After the phenomenal early breakfast that we had enjoyed in Ourense, this was a let down. Slow in arriving, the coffee was ordinary, the toast as hard as a board and the jam was mostly syrup. And not cheap - so strongly advise ignoring this place. With such a short day, we did not walk at a strong pace, and passed beautiful scenery as we headed to the Monasterio de Oseira. The Albuergue is run by the monastery, and is quite spartan, but what it may lack in comfort is made up for the beauty of the Monasterio, the warmth of the welcome of the Hospitalero and the location. And how often is one able to sleep the night within what was once a large chapel. The place is incredible and enormous - we were told that it is the second largest Monastery in Spain. We felt totally privileged to be staying here and to be able to join with the few monks that currently live at the Monasterio for their morning and evening service. This detour was, we strongly felt, very worthwhile, though when we were there the eating possibilities at the two nearby bars was limited to bocadillos.
Day 17: Monasterio de Oseira - A Laxe
Started walking at 6:01am arrival at 15:11pm
Recorded distance 34.17kms / 43774 steps walked
This was a much longer walking day then that which was expected, with a few deviations for the construction of the AVE, and the final part of the walk to A Laxe seemed to take for ever. The sello from the Albergue in the Credencial states Albergue de Lalin, but this seemed quite removed from the town of Lalin. I was also told that it is known as Albuergue de Bendoiro. The Albergue has a stunning architectural design, combining very harmoniously the varies materials used in the construction. The place is enormous, and the interior is quite impractical, with huge areas for sitting in, but the dormitories relatively small. We were exhausted and wanted a late siesta, though my deep sleep and dream were soon broken by some major commotion downstairs. I descended to see what was happening, to find that one of the large rest areas had been taken over by a children's dance class. There is "Mariá José", a bar/restaurant about half a kilometre or so away from the Albergue, or the much longer walk of about 2 or more kms to get to Bar/Supermercado Xeitoso in the direction of Santiso. I chose to go to the latter, and stock up on food to prepare our supper at the Albergue, which had an enormous kitchen. The real challenges of this incredibly poorly and strangely located Albergue were to be discovered during the night, when we were all seriously bitten by quite vicious mosquitoes.
Day 18: A Laxe - Outeiro (Vedra)
Started walking at 7:02am arrival at 17:42pm
Recorded distance 42.31kms / 53141 steps walked
The distance recorded reflects some doubling back by myself, as I had left the wife and daughter to walk together, and walked ahead before walking back to join them. We had a damp start to the day, with what we were told were the first rains to fall since late May. After the many long days of heat and more heat, the rain was very welcome, and it felt strange to be finally using our ponchos. We stopped for a good coffee in the very recently opened Bar Gerardo, located about 50metres before the Church of Santiago de Taboada. An unusual church, which opens most days at 9.00am for peregrinos to visit. While the church would be hard to miss, one needs to look for the Bar Gerardo, which is located immediately on the right after climbing the path, which emerges onto the road just before the Church. There was a need to use the ATM in Silleda, before continuing the descent to Bandeiro and the stronger descent to Pont Ulla. At Pont Ulla, on the path that leads to the bridge, carefully look out on the path for the very small frogs, about the size of a 1€ coin. There is a choice between a private Albergue in Pont Ulla or ascending to the Albergue in Outeiro. Having been advised that it was best to take food with us, we stocked up in the large Dia supermarket before the final stretch leading to the Albergue. Oh my goodness, another architectural jewel, strangely located and with a Hospitalera, Pilar, who we later learned had a reputation that was not positive, and who was fretting in the extreme as wet peregrinos entered. She appears to be operating the Albergue as a personal fiefdom and commercial venture, preparing supper for the captive peregrinos who have almost all arrived with little or nothing to eat. And once again, we were all woken by the automatic lighting coming on at 5:45am, though unlike in Cea, this time it was a direct and harsh light. Major upset for everyone, as we were all solidly asleep.
Day 19: Outeiro (Vedra) - Santiago de Compestella
Started walking at 6.25am arrival at Santiago at
Recorded distance 20.08kms / 26329 steps walked
Spend more time in Zamora - at least a whole full day, perhaps even a couple of days !Thank you for sharing your notes and experiences. This is very useful for my planning and l will go through my plan for the route, and compare it with your notes. Anything you would change if you plan for another Camino here?
Hope that you have been able to enjoy some of the Semana Santa processions in Sevilla while there and Bon Camino for when you start walking on Tuesday !Hi @gollygolly - thanks so much for your frank and candid account of the Sanabres. I really enjoyed reading your two posts and have found them to be really helpful.
I’m currently in Seville and will start walking on Tuesday. I hope to be at the start the Sanabres third week of May.
Thanks again and cheers -
Jenny
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