LIVE from the Camino Chrissy on the Camino Sanabrés

[Camino Chrissy]

After a smooth and uneventful flight from Chicago to Madrid on Iberia, the last three days we have been doing some sightseeing in Salamanca and Zamora, and our days have been sunny, a little cool and not a cloud in the sky.

We took the train from Madrid to Salamanca and its historical area is really lovely. Hotel San Palo was right in the midst and we had beautiful views of the cathedral out our windows. We enjoyed lunch on the huge Plaza Mayor and probably our favorite standout thing to do was climbing the Scali Coeli Tower with viewing platforms of the city all around. Directly across on one side at eye level were stork nests with the parents and babies...so cute.
The Salamanca cathedral is huge and the tour was excellent with an audio guide. I am always impressed with the hand carved wooden choir stalls and the beautiful organs above. This one had nearly 100 seats on two levels.
I was glad for the tip from a forum member to go to the Art Nouveau Museum as it was so interesting. The Art Deco period in the early 1900's has its own special "look" and the unique museum had many incredible pieces on display.

Zamora is a much smaller city, but is not lacking for things to do and on this Monday seemed to have fewer tourists. The grounds and parklike setting around the exterior of the old castle made for some great photos; unfortunately the interior is closed on Mondays. We did a tour of the Zamora cathedral nearby and got my first proper looking pilgrim sello.
We met a gal from Amsterdam who was walking the Sanabres to Santiago while her husband rides his bicycle south on the VdlP.

Tomorrow morning we leave, taking an hour+ bus ride to be dropped off two miles from Rionegro del Puente, where we will stay at the albergue in town and hopefully have dinner at Me Gusto Comer in the evening. Many forum members have mentioned to me to be sure not to miss the incredible experience.
We will officially begin walking the next morning.
Random photos...

 

[Tassie Kaz]

Great start Chrissy!
Now you have to switch modes from tourist 🎟 to the serious business of walking
Enjoy, stay safe & can't wait for your updates.

 

[VNwalking]

Buen camino, You two.
May it be a joy. (It sounds like you've had a great start!)

 

[mspath]

Thanks for sharing your journey ; looking forward to reading/seeing each new day's events as you walk along.

Carpe diem and in the truest sense, Ultreia!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 1-
After a quick breakfast of a cafe con leche and a tapas that caught my eye at the counter because it had avocado and shrimp on it, we headed for the bus station. After a 1.5 hour bus ride from Zamora, we walked the remaining two miles to Rionegro del Puente on the Camino path. There were lovely wildflowers to enjoy much of the way on this crisp, sunny day in addition to hearing cuckoo birds



We enjoyed a fantastic 4 course gourmet meal at Me Gusto Comer; recommended by several forum members and it did not disappoint. Photo is the 1st course.


The albergue was exceptional, and looked quite new with tasteful furnishings and cooking and laundry facilities. There were only eight of us in the 20+ bed dorms in two floors.


Later in the afternoon, we walked around for awhile and I was intrigued by these stone stairs that went up to the bells on top of what was left of an old crumbling church with a stork's nest on top...so I climbed up, picking my way to avoid the plants as the steps seemed in good shape.




In addition, the town is situated on a pretty little river and we saw two fly fisherman, hoping for success.

 

[Tassie Kaz]

Love your curious nature Chrissy ; those stairs were begging to be climbed especially with the provision of a sturdy handrail for reassurance!

 

[CarolamS]

Buen Camino Chrissy. I'm enjoying your reports. I'm hoping to walk the Sanabres this autumn.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 2-
We walked 21k in sunshine again today from Rionegro del Puente to Entrepenas. The Camino paths and other dirt roads were good for the feet with no loose, rolling rocks, so it was easy to look around at the pretty landscape and flowers. The white broom is everywhere and I love it. The yellow broom has barely blossomed yet. I also took time to climb another set of stone stairs to a church tower to the top; plenty of weeds on these steps too.





We had pre-arranged lodging to stay at Casa Azul; a newly remodeled small one bedroom house and we had it all to ourselves. The owner drove us to a restaurant just a couple of miles away for dinner, which was a nice gesture as there is nowhere to eat. We had another Pilgrim from Germany eating with us and she spoke good English, which made for nice conversation.


We have a short day tomorrow of 16k because we sometimes break up long stages shown on Gronze.

 

[VNwalking]

Wonderful! So good to see, Chris...buen camino!

 

[Peregrinopaul]

Day 2-
We walked 21k in sunshine again today from Rionegro del Puente to Entrepenas. The Camino paths and other dirt roads were good for the feet with no loose, rolling rocks, so it was easy to look around at the pretty landscape and flowers. The white broom is everywhere and I love it. The yellow broom has barely blossomed yet. I also took time to climb another set of stone stairs to a church tower to the top; plenty of weeds on these steps too.
Gronze.

There are quite a few of those unique churches up ahead, Chrissy. I read somewhere that they are templar churches built with outside steps to the bell tower to provide convenient look-outs for approaching raiders. One of my favourites is the church of Santiago at Terroso just before Requejo, located all on its own in woodland.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

One of my favourites is the church of Santiago at Terroso just before Requejo, located all on its own in woodland.

We are staying in Puebla de Sanabria for two nights and Requejo is the following night so I will watch for it. Thanks for the info, Paul.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 3-
This shorter day of 15.4k going from Entrepenas to Pueblo de Sanabria seemed to take longer than it should have; mostly because I stopped often to take many pictures. For me, it is one of the joys of walking Caminos...the slow walk and seeing new sights unfolding step by step.
Speaking of steps, we had a few stretches of watery mud and searched for ways to keep our shoes dry, with little success.
We only saw five pilgrims today, and all of them passed us up; no surprise. We did have a conversation with a gal from Finland for awhile as she knew some English.


Eventually the terrain became hillier and more colorful as we reached a higher elevation.
The day started cloudy, but ended with lots of sunshine halfway through the day.



We saw our first cows today and watched as their owner parked his vehicle by us, stepped out and called them from the field over to him. The cows started heading over to him, and they kept coming and coming, forming a processional line. It was entertaining to watch and I speculated it to be nearly a hundred cows!


A couple of photos from the villages we walk through.


We have two nights here and plan to take a tour of the castle tomorrow. We are staying in the historic area and hope to find a few other things to do.

 

[DenWhite]

A wonderful Camino so far with the bonus of spring colour. Our inspiration is gaining momentum for commencing from Porto tomorrow morning.
You Camino Provides patch is still with us from 2018!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 4-
Today was a tourist/rest day in Pueblo de Sanabria. I'm glad we took some forum advice to allow the extra day. We had a bit of sunshine the first half of the day for visiting the castle, which was extremely nice and interesting, with some great views and a small museum.



Castle museum...


We later walked around the pretty little residential streets in the historic area...



Tomorrow we have a short day to Requejo of about 12k...works for me!

 

[DenWhite]

Agree with taking time to soak it all in if time allows. We have reduced our average distance on our Camino Porto starting today to 16ks, with 22.5 the longest and a 10k snuck in for good leisure. Shorter routes allows the luxury.

 

[ginniek]

Day 2-
We walked 21k in sunshine again today from Rionegro del Puente to Entrepenas. The Camino paths and other dirt roads were good for the feet with no loose, rolling rocks, so it was easy to look around at the pretty landscape and flowers. The white broom is everywhere and I love it. The yellow broom has barely blossomed yet. I also took time to climb another set of stone stairs to a church tower to the top; plenty of weeds on these steps too.
View attachment 168617
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We had pre-arranged lodging to stay at Casa Azul; a newly remodeled small one bedroom house and we had it all to ourselves. The owner drove us to a restaurant just a couple of miles away for dinner, which was a nice gesture as there is nowhere to eat. We had another Pilgrim from Germany eating with us and she spoke good English, which made for nice conversation.
View attachment 168628

We have a short day tomorrow of 16k because we sometimes break up long stages shown on Gronze.

So pleasant to read the account of someone taking it relatively easy and truly enjoying the sights. Buen provecho.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 5-
This morning we left the wonderful Hostel Carlos V in Pueblo de Sanabres where we spent two nights. It had rained overnight and was quite chilly and started sprinkling on and off. We had on our Frogg Togg rain jackets and also carry umbrellas. I had on my buff, a warm beanie, and fleece gloves, in addition to all three of my wicking layers. I decided not to wear my down puffy in case it made me too hot.

The walk was really great and had a nice variety of landscape. A short stretch along a little used road had mountains straight ahead and a few peaks had snow as we walked towards Requejo. I think we are headed that way uphill starting tomorrow.




The day became colder rather than warming up like it sometimes does. I would be miserable on the Sanabres without my "tried and true" layering system, so I did quite well. A variety of town photos in Requejo.





The majority of our lodging has been prebooked in Hostels and small hotels, but tonight we are staying in the municipal albergue with six others and it is quite chilly. Thankfully there are blankets which will help. The 20 beds all have the top bunks with no "fences" whatsoever on the sides for safety; there recently was a thread started discussing this very thing.

There usually is nowhere to stop for food, coffee, or to take a break, so carrying enough provisions is important. So far we are only filling our water bottles a little over half full since it has not really been warm yet, but I'm sure that will change eventually.

Tonight we will walk the half mile to the "Tu Casa" restaurant, where they not only have a complete inexpensive pilgrim meal, but other options that look appealing; it will be a hard decision to decide.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

There are quite a few of those unique churches up ahead, Chrissy. I read somewhere that they are templar churches built with outside steps to the bell tower to provide convenient look-outs for approaching raiders. One of my favourites is the church of Santiago at Terroso just before Requejo, located all on its own in woodland.

Paul, I was so disappointed to not take the turn off at Terroso today to see the church, but the cold day with intermittent drizzle and some muddy spots had me focused on getting to the albergue. There are only six of us here tonight.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 6-
It was rather cold this morning when we checked out of the albergue in Requejo at 8:30am, so I layered and wore my puffy jacket. It was suggested we take the road at first instead of the Camino due to rain overnight with muddy trails in the low valley. I am very impressed with the nice N525 because there was no traffic since the interstate A52 was built nearly paralleling it. We stayed on the road, crossing its bridge and 345 meter tunnel before later joined up with the Camino path. Only one pilgrim passed us today; our new friend from dinner; Pete from Holland.



After entering the adorable village of Acibros with its lovely renovations of homes, church and ancient grain grinding stones, including new slate roofs, we entered the Camino nature path again. It was gorgeous with heavy bright green moss on old stone fences, and large soft lichen growing on humongous twisted tree trunks, reminding me of a fairytale Hobbit forest. I liked these colorful bee hive houses amongst the green and brown.




We reached Lubien about 4k later, and it was a larger town going through many similar very attractive renovations. I have a little theory about all of this renovation work going on in the two villages. The newly completed AVE train goes in the middle between the two and I speculate funds were possibly allocated to improve these villages on either side of the tracks.





We have settled in our room at Casa Cesar and had calamari and homemade croquettes for a quick dinner at the nearby restaurant.

 

[VNwalking]

Beautiful, just beautiful.
Thanks for the words and photos, Chris. For some reason I especially like the one of the beehives.
Buen camino!

 

[gns]

Day 6-
It was rather cold this morning when we checked out of the albergue in Requejo at 8:30am, so I layered and wore my puffy jacket. It was suggested we take the road at first instead of the Camino due to rain overnight with muddy trails in the low valley. I am very impressed with the nice N525 because there was no traffic since the interstate A52 was built nearly paralleling it. We stayed on the road, crossing its bridge and 345 meter tunnel before later joined up with the Camino path. Only one pilgrim passed us today; our new friend from dinner; Pete from Holland.
View attachment 168986
View attachment 168987

After entering the adorable village of Acibros with its lovely renovations of homes, church and ancient grain grinding stones, including new slate roofs, we entered the Camino nature path again. It was gorgeous with heavy bright green moss on old stone fences, and large soft lichen growing on humongous twisted tree trunks, reminding me of a fairytale Hobbit forest. I liked these colorful bee hive houses amongst the green and brown.
View attachment 168988View attachment 168989
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View attachment 168991

We reached Lubien about 4k later, and it was a larger town going through many similar very attractive renovations. I have a little theory about all of this renovation work going on in the two villages. The newly completed AVE train goes in the middle between the two and I speculate funds were possibly allocated to improve these villages on either side of the tracks.
View attachment 168992
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We have settled in our room at Casa Cesar and had calamari and homemade croquettes for a quick dinner at the nearby restaurant.

This brings back happy memories of my first Camino. On the advice of locals we walked on the road in the snow (it was April then as well) before it turned to sunshine on the other side of the tunnel.

Glad you are enjoying it.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 7-
This was a very long walking day for us as 24k from Lubien to A Gudina was in the mountains with quite a few ups and downs. We literally walked for ten solid hours, minus a quick lunch break and a zillion pictures due to the absolutely stunning scenery that unfolded as the day progressed. We only had one couple pass all day, and I think, once again, that any walkers were encouraged to take the N525 road. I am so glad we did not do that, although nearly the first third of the route was a continuous uphill slog on wet creek beds full of mud and all sizes of rocks. For me, it was quite a brutal ascent as I envisioned a fall that might end my Camino. I was definitely watching each step and was very slow.



Our weather was sunny and perfect temps for walking, and thankfully the rest of the day was dry underfoot, which helped navigating the ever changing terrain. We saw no wildlife of any kind, but heard plenty of songbirds and cuckoo's.



After that, the trail quality improved dramatically as it leveled out as we passed over to Galicia. What a relief, and as more time passed the trail became even more beautiful with huge boulders strewn around amongst the flowering broom.

 

[CarolamS]

It's looking like a truly lovely Camino. Thanks for your reports and photos I'm really enjoying following your progress Chrissy.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 8-
We walked from A Gudina to Campobecerros today, a total of 21k. It is supposed to be one of THE most beautiful stages on the Sanabres, and after such a gorgeous day yesterday, I was looking forward to this stage. Unfortunately we woke up to cold, fog and intermittent mist and light rain. Oh yes, we had some wind at times, too. I had forgotten we had crossed over and entered Galicia yesterday, but Galicia didn't let us forget!
Two tour groups of about eight to ten walkers in each passed us up early on wearing day packs, but after that we saw no one else the rest of the way.

The good news is that the whole trail snaked back and forth along a small, paved mountain road with no traffic and few ascents and descents. I found it to be the absolutely perfect surface to be walking in the rain and our dirty shoes were even washed clean.
We kept dry and "fairly warm" except for our fleece gloves that eventually got wet and it became difficult to keep our hands warm after six hours of walking. The temp hovered between 48 and 54°F the whole time. We had no opportunity to stop and eat the lunch we'd brought, nor to stop at a cafe/bar for a break.

We could barely see anything the whole way, which made me thankful for the sunshine and beauty of yesterday. Finally about an hour before we arrived at Casa Nunez (thanks to @peragrina2000 calling in a reservation for me), some of the fog and rain lifted, so I was able to take several pictures with my wrinkled, numb fingers.


The beautiful reservoir peeked out.



I will mention that every mojone along the Sanabres has been in pristine condition with absolutely no graffiti whatsoever; possibly because this more remote area draws mature, dedicated walkers in general.
(Our destination of Campobecerros in the background.)


We finished our walk with a cafe con leche to warm us up and much later a nice meal of homemade soup, beef stew, potatoes, vino tinto, and chocolate ice cream cones.

 

[DenWhite]

Similar conditions to the Porto Central Rates to Bercelhos yesterday but the rain was much heavier with no wind. The photos you got highlight the magic.

 

[Dani7]

Your pictures are stunning. You have a natural talent there. Thanks for sharing your daily experiences here with us. Burn Camino Chrissy.

PS now I want to do the Sanabres as well. Camino list is getting long

 

[peregrina2000]

Finally about an hour before we arrived at Casa Nunez (thanks to @peragrina2000 calling in a reservation for me),

I know that several Forum members have posted very negative opinions about this place. What’s your opinion, Chrissy?

I haven’t been following your Camino since I’m on the Invierno right now, but a quick skim through the posts and beautiful pictures show that you’re having a wonderful camino.

I’m in Galicia now too (leaving Quiroga today), and it looks like we will have enough rain for the next week to keep us good and wet every day!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I know that several Forum members have posted very negative opinions about this place. What’s your opinion, Chrissy?

Well, you get what you pay for. At 35 euros for a private twin room and bathroom, I'll not complain, but since you asked, it was not the cleanest; a bit grungy. I checked for bedbugs and found no signs. The water was very hot and we put our washed socks and shoes on the wall heaters, which were warmer and stayed on longer than most places, and were dry this morning...apparently only to get wet again today. Most importantly, the sheets were clean with warm blankets.

I'm not sure where else we could have stayed in this much needed stopping point, but I was glad to have a place to lay my head. I'd heard the worker lady (owner?) was a bit of a sourpuss, so I made sure I was smiling and appreciative, and she quickly became sweet as pie.
Dinner was a full Pilgrim meal for 12 euro. The bar was quirky with interesting tables and chairs and local men were enjoying each other's company. The language seemed a bit different; possibly Galician dialect? I had to use Google translate, but she and I stumbled through.

 

[jungleboy]

I'd heard the worker lady (owner?) was a bit of a sourpuss, so I made sure I was smiling and appreciative, and she quickly became sweet as pie.

Turning on the charm — love it!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I see I had my credit card purchase emailed to me automatically this morning and I was only charged $25.77 US for the Casa Nunez room; no idea why it was so cheap...go figure.

 

[Scott...O]

I see I had my credit card purchase emailed to me automatically this morning and I was only charged $25.77 US for the Casa Nunez room; no idea why it was so cheap...go figure.

Given the current exchange rates, one possibility is that the host keyed in a charge of EU25 and not EU35 by mistake.

 

[J Willhaus]

I see I had my credit card purchase emailed to me automatically this morning and I was only charged $25.77 US for the Casa Nunez room; no idea why it was so cheap...go figure.

Maybe you got the pilgrim discount?

 

[VNwalking]

. I'd heard the worker lady (owner?) was a bit of a sourpuss, so I made sure I was smiling and appreciative, and she quickly became sweet as pie.

Kindness always spreads...wonderful, Chris.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 9-
We went from Campobecerros to Laza today. It was a shorter day at 14.4k and still kind of coldish, but intermittent light rain would come and go with periods of sunshine to warm us up. Best of all, no fog got in the way of looking around and taking pictures, so I was happy. Once again, the path was a narrow untraveled road and the majority was a gradual downhill, snaking around the mountainsides. Two groups of speeding bikers passed us by, probably having fun on Spain's May 1st holiday. In addition, about five other walkers passed us by today.







We were not sure we would not find a spot to eat our lunch in the rain, but at about the right time we stumbled on this "hippie" type pilgrim respite; a donativo snack spot with a covered roof and chairs...it even had a cute sello stamp. No one was around, but we made our sandwiches and added a piece of lemon cake and a banana from the little stash of items offered...yes, we put in a few euros in the box and signed the "guest book".


(Continued)...

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 9- (part 2)
We walked through a couple of very small villages and I am always intrigued by quirky, stone properties in ruins through the passing of time and neglect.


We had a couple of nice views of the new AVE train bridge and even saw a train going past coming out of the tunnel..



Last but not least, I also "have a thing" for rocks and today I have been loving the bluestone and shale. Here are a few photos of little drainages along the side of the road that intrigued me with their "design".

 

[VNwalking]

Really loving your words and images, Chris.
It looks gorgeous.

Last but not least, I also "have a thing" for rocks and today I have been loving the bluestone and shale.

Ditto. Fossils?
(Here you go. Too much information, but you're on this gorgeous geological map:

MapasIGME - Spanish Geological Survey maps: MAGNA 50 - Sheet number 265 (LAZA)

(One map east of this one - that you just walked over on the way from Puebla de Sanabria - had some eye-wateringly old granite....)

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Really loving your words and images, Chris.
It looks gorgeous.


Ditto. Fossils?
(Here you go. Too much information, but you're on this gorgeous geological map:

MapasIGME - Spanish Geological Survey maps: MAGNA 50 - Sheet number 265 (LAZA)

(One map east of this one - that you just walked over on the way from Puebla de Sanabria - had some eye-wateringly old granite....)

Thanks, @VNwalking, i'm glad you are liking my write-ups on the Sanabres.
That link looks very interesting, but probably think I would fail a test.

 

[VNwalking]

That link looks very interesting, but probably think I would fail a test

Well, yeah. Me too. But it's fun to explore it anyway. I just discovered DeepL can translate geological nomenclature!

 

[JillGat]

There are quite a few of those unique churches up ahead, Chrissy. I read somewhere that they are templar churches built with outside steps to the bell tower to provide convenient look-outs for approaching raiders. One of my favourites is the church of Santiago at Terroso just before Requejo, located all on its own in woodland.
View attachment 168636

It is a sweet, isolated little church. We climbed the steps and rang the bell.

Chrissy, our first week and a half from Puebla de Sanabria was very warm and dry, so we were lucky. It was only cold when we got to Santiago and we had a few drizzles there.

 

[JillGat]

I know that several Forum members have posted very negative opinions about this place. What’s your opinion, Chrissy?

I haven’t been following your Camino since I’m on the Invierno right now, but a quick skim through the posts and beautiful pictures show that you’re having a wonderful camino.

I’m in Galicia now too (leaving Quiroga today), and it looks like we will have enough rain for the next week to keep us good and wet every day!

The dealbreaker for us at Campobecerros was the copious evidence of a longterm bedbug infestation. The rims of the mattresses were lined with evidence. And there was a dead bedbug on top of the sheet. Glad that wasn't apparently your room, Chrissy!

 

[Dojo]

Chrissy - I plan to do the VDP/Sanabres in May 2025 starting in Salamanca, so I am following your posts with much interest. Is there a reason you didn't start in Salamanca? How was the train from Madrid to Salamanca- did you have any issues? Your days seem rather short - did you plan it that way or did lodging drive it?

 

[davebugg]

Oh My Gosh. . . .. . the Camino Withdrawals have started up again. I really need a Pilgrimage Fix.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Glad that wasn't apparently your room, Chrissy!

I checked the mattresses and the slats first thing. Then I looked in the closet and corners of the nightstand drawers. I saw no sign of the tiny black poo buildups anywhere. I am glad you found somewhere else to stay close by...all good..

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Chrissy - I plan to do the VDP/Sanabres in May 2025 starting in Salamanca, so I am following your posts with much interest. Is there a reason you didn't start in Salamanca? How was the train from Madrid to Salamanca- did you have any issues? Your days seem rather short - did you plan it that way or did lodging drive it?

Dojo, I only wanted to be away from home for less than a month and always add in a few sightseeing days, in addition to the walk.
I chose the Sanabres for the mountainy views, good signage, and interesting and varied terrain. I knew that it would be a flatter route after Salamanca to Rionegro del Puente, and I had walked the Camino de Madrid last fall, which was lovely, but quite flat as I started in Segovia.
As for some shorter days I'd planned and reserved most lodging ahead, so my stages are a mixture. Also I prefer to walk around 20k when possible. I am slow because I marvel at all I see around me and stop often to take pictures.
The train from Madrid to Salamanca was not difficult to get and we purchased them ahead of time.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

We met two older Frenchmen at breakfast this morning who are walking two stages today; my one stage is already 20k.
We also met a German gal who walks alone and started in Salamanca. She is walking even farther than those men because she was unable to reserve lodging for herself on her planned stage.

 

[Kirkie]

@Camino Chrissy it is time to add my voice to the chorus of applause for your excellent posts. So glad all is going well for you, with your son. You have an inbuilt 'family' and that is all you need! Keep safe, and I look forward to the rest of the pilgrim posting from you.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

How sweet of you to say, @Kirkie. Thank you!
We are heading out now...into the gray weather. Yes, having my son accompany me is a huge plus!

 

[J Willhaus]

I read in the paper today that rain in Galicia will continue through Sunday. Keep the rain gear and your umbrella handy!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 10-
We didn't leave our very nice lodging at Casa Blanco Conde in Laza until 9:00am this morning, and our walk was a very average 19.2k to Vilar de Barrio.

The first portion is mostly uphill and was on quite a bit of stone shale and scree for a couple of kilometers, so I had to watch my footing; thankfully it was not wet underfoot.


Most of the day was cloudy with slightly warmer weather, but still chilly. The blessing was that the sun popped out "here and there", and we only had one quick ten minute rain shower in the early afternoon.
We walked for about an hour with an interesting 63 year old Irish woman, Geraldine. She and her husband lived on a 50' sailboat for thirty years and sailed around the world three times before stopping at age 50. She now walks Caminos while her husband does his own thing in their camper van and picks her up at the end of her stages every day.

There were quite a few dogs behind bars today; here are the most ferocious ones.


The last half was downhill all the way to town. Our room at Casa do Adelina is wonderful with many stone walls and we had the whole quaint two story house to ourselves as no one else booked the other two rooms. We decided to make our own dinner to hang out and make more use of this special place.

Random photos from today...

 

[Corned Beef]

I see you stopped at Rincón do Peregrino in Alberguería. Not one to miss.

 

[Lindsay53]

Enjoying following your journey Chrissy. If you are stopping in Xunqueira de Ambia I thoroughly recommend Casa Tomas.

 

[Anniesantiago]

Loving your posts, Chrissy!

 

[VNwalking]

Loving your posts, Chrissy!

Yes, me too. And the ferocious dogs.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Enjoying following your journey Chrissy. If you are stopping in Xunqueira de Ambia I thoroughly recommend Casa Tomas.

We were unable to get a reservation in that town, so are staying in nearby Pousa, 2k further. Your suggestion may be beneficial to someone else reading along.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Yes, me too. And the ferocious dogs.

The dogs were absolutely adorable and didn't yap at all.

 

[VNwalking]

The dogs were absolutely adorable and didn't yap at all.

Yeah, they really look like cuties.
May these be the only kind of dogs you encounter.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Yeah, they really look like cuties.
May these be the only kind of dogs you encounter.

Hope so! I hear that shortly after the monastery at Oseiro there have been a bad dog or two reported by Luka and confirmed by others...we shall see.

 

[VNwalking]

I don't think Jilll encountered them, so hopefully it's nothing to worry about.

 

[jungleboy]

Hope so! I hear that shortly after the monastery at Oseiro there have been a bad dog or two reported by Luka and confirmed by others...we shall see.

Chrissy will just give them the sourpuss charm treatment and they’ll be wagging their tails at her in no time!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Chrissy will just give them the sourpuss charm treatment and they’ll be wagging their tails at her in no time!

I try doing that every time I pass the barking meanies, but 4 out of 5 times my charming ways fall on deaf ears.