Bed race on the VDLP…

[JustJack]

One reason for me choosing the VDLP is to avoid the constant stress of the bed race on the busier routes. Alas I haven’t escaped it. Literally every bed (that I’m able to contact) is full from where I am (Canaveral) for the next 45km or so. Everywhere I contacted last night and this morning are ‘completo’. The albergue at the next stop has 20 beds and they are all booked. I suspect/hope I'm just in a bubble. Seems to be about 30-40 walking the same stage as me, making it a bed race, ala the CF. I’ve looked at every option (under 100 euros) and there’s no way I can walk to a bed tonight. So I’m going to try taking a bus to Aldeanueva del Camino, about an hour away by bus. Hopefully that will get me out of this bubble. Racing for a bed every day on the VDLP is not what I signed up for. The stages are too long and accommodation to sparse for this nonsense.
Just an FYI for others about to embark.

 

[Antnix1]

I remember Cañaveral well, because it was my longest day due to walking from Cáceres. 48km iirc

Not sure if it's fully book due to pilgrims, other holidaymakers or workers. I know pilgrim groups as large as 10 wreak havoc on availability in smaller albergues.
Actually in Santiago I'd planned on a second night in km.0 only to discover a single group of 50 booked it out. Another albergue elsewhere i wanted to stay was also block-booked by 1 group. Obviously private albergues are not going to turn down the income.

The albergue at Embalse de Alcántara needs to reopen pronto.

 

[davejsy]

Maybe if you have the luxury of time take a rest day and that might make all the difference?

 

[Jay_Walker]

You could try a municipal albergue. First come first served. There's one in Grimaldi, 12 beds only 8km from Canaveral. Almost everyone has to stay in Canaveral because it is 33 km from Casar de Caseres with nothing in between. Things should spread out a bit after that.

 

[JustJack]

You could try a municipal albergue. First come first served. There's one in Grimaldi, 12 beds only 8km from Canaveral. Almost everyone has to stay in Canaveral because it is 33 km from Casar de Caseres with nothing in between. Things should spread out a bit after that.

I considered that, and maybe that’s what I should have done. But I’m in the bus now to Aldeanueva. I should be there before noon so will walk to Bano de Montemayor. I was able to make a reservation at a private albergue there. Hopefully this gets me out of the bubble I may have been in and I won’t have any more problems finding a bed. I’ll update in a day or two.

 

[Jay_Walker]

I considered that, and maybe that’s what I should have done. But I’m in the bus now to Aldeanueva. I should be there before noon so will walk to Bano de Montemayor. I was able to make a reservation at a private albergue there. Hopefully this gets me out of the bubble I may have been in and I won’t have any more problems finding a bed. I’ll update in a day or two.

I finished yesterday. Municipals and donativos were never full but twice I saw private albergues sell out. You meet more people as well. Anyway, it is your Camino, enjoy it. Buen Camino.

 

[JustJack]

I finished yesterday. Municipals and donativos were never full but twice I saw private albergues sell out. You meet more people as well. Anyway, it is your Camino, enjoy it. Buen Camino.

Thanks for your input, particularly your note that you meet more people at a municipal albergue. I wasn’t aware.

Unfortunately not every little town and village has a municipal albergue.

 

[JustJack]

Found a beautiful albergue at Baños de Montemayor. Albergue Turístico Vía de la Plata. The little town is beautiful as well. A bit of a change from the somewhat nondescript towns I’ve been stopping as so far. But it’s Monday, and once again almost every place is closed. Found the o ly bar open for another hour so could get a bocadilla. Sundays and Mondays can be tough finding food and drink.

​

 

[Robo]

Found a beautiful albergue at Baños de Montemayor. Albergue Turístico Vía de la Plata. The little town is beautiful as well. A bit of a change from the somewhat nondescript towns I’ve been stopping as so far. But it’s Monday, and once again almost every place is closed. Found the o ly bar open for another hour so could get a bocadilla. Sundays and Mondays can be tough finding food and drink.

​

Yep. I stayed there last year, great place. But the only open shop was closing in 15 mins and the only place for lunch was taking last orders for menu del dia. Lucky... I used Google maps alot to check a day or two ahead for shops, bars etc, and opening hours.

 

[JustJack]

Yep. I stayed there last year, great place. But the only open shop was closing in 15 mins and the only place for lunch was taking last orders for menu del dia. Lucky... I used Google maps alot to check a day or two ahead for shops, bars etc, and opening hours.

Thanks Rob, looking at Google maps there may or may not be some place open to eat this evening. Most are closed til tomorrow or the day after. One restaurant says open. Hope Google is correct or it’s going to be a hungry evening…

 

[JustJack]

I was spoiled last year on the CF. They cater to pilgrims on that route. Here I’m just a dude with a backpack. Understandable, as there aren’t enough pilgrims on this route to make it worth their while to cater to them. I need to take weekends more seriously and plan accordingly. Lessons being learned along the way.

And weekends seem to include Mondays.

 

[Bradypus]

I was spoiled last year on the CF. They cater to pilgrims on that route. Here I’m just a dude with a backpack. Understandable, as there aren’t enough pilgrims on this route to make it worth their while to cater to them.

In many ways the VDLP today is very like the Camino Frances of 30 years ago. Though the accommodation is better. There is a pilgrim infrastructure but it is fairly sparse. Which means long stages. And as you have discovered the towns and villages along the route do not revolve around pilgrims as so many of the small villages on the Frances do. You will not find the infamous menu peregrino very often and business hours are mostly traditionally Spanish rather than deliberately international. Worth bearing in mind that the Frances is very much the exception rather than the norm. On my two VdlP walks I have always felt welcome but I never had the impression that pilgrims were a major part of anyone's day unless they happened to run an albergue.

 

[JustJack]

In many ways the VDLP today is very like the Camino Frances of 30 years ago. Though the accommodation is better. There is a pilgrim infrastructure but it is fairly sparse. Which means long stages. And as you have discovered the towns and villages along the route do not revolve around pilgrims as so many of the small villages on the Frances do. You will not find the infamous menu peregrino very often and business hours are mostly traditionally Spanish rather than deliberately international. Worth bearing in mind that the Frances is very much the exception rather than the norm. On my two VdlP walks I have always felt welcome but I never had the impression that pilgrims were a major part of anyone's day unless they happened to run an albergue.

Agreed

 

[Robo]

Thanks Rob, looking at Google maps there may or may not be some place open to eat this evening. Most are closed til tomorrow or the day after. One restaurant says open. Hope Google is correct or it’s going to be a hungry evening…

Always have a snack in your pack just in case.. I had one day with no food till night. The CR promised breakfast but didn't turn up. The cafe in the next village was closed... but at the end of the day I got a meal... a packet of nuts kept me going....

 

[Grousedoctor]

Thanks for your input, particularly your note that you meet more people at a municipal albergue. I wasn’t aware.

Unfortunately not every little town and village has a municipal albergue.

Hey JustJack. Sorry to hear about the difficulty finding beds in the albergues. When I did the VDLP in 2019, I did it a month earlier and very fortunately never had any difficulty finding an albergue or a bed for the night.

My only comment on this particular thread is that I have never found that I met more or fewer fellow pilgrims on my Caminos based on the type of albergue where I stayed. On numerous routes, I have stayed in both municipal and private albergues. The category of albergue did not seem to determine my meeting people. I’m not really sure why this would determine relationships. Every night, regardless of where I stayed, I’d bump into familiar faces that I had met along The Way as well as meet new folks. It was this human factor that made the Caminos so meaningful.

Anyway, good luck with finding beds rest of your journey. Buen Camino.

 

[JustJack]

Hey JustJack. Sorry to hear about the difficulty finding beds in the albergues. When I did the VDLP in 2019, I did it a month earlier and very fortunately never had any difficulty finding an albergue or a bed for the night.

My only comment on this particular thread is that I have never found that I met more or fewer fellow pilgrims on my Caminos based on the type of albergue where I stayed. On numerous routes, I have stayed in both municipal and private albergues. The category of albergue did not seem to determine my meeting people. I’m not really sure why this would determine relationships. Every night, regardless of where I stayed, I’d bump into familiar faces that I had met along The Way as well as meet new folks. It was this human factor that made the Caminos so meaningful.

Anyway, good luck with finding beds rest of your journey. Buen Camino.

Thanks for your comment, and I do hope that I was in a bubble of 30+ pilgrims, that I am now ahead of. The next few days will tell. While 30 pilgrims isn’t a lot, it’s more than most albergues can handle. And when there was municipal albergue it was turning into a literal bed race for those beds. I found myself unable to stop and enjoy the walk because I had to keep going to get to the albergue ahead of most of the pack to get a bed. That’s not conducive to a good Camino. But as I said, hopefully the past few days were an anomaly and it’s behind me now. And I too haven’t noted any differences regarding the quantity or quality of fellow pilgrims at a municipal versus private albergues.

 

[LTfit]

I've walked the Plata twice and parts a third time and although I never had an issue finding a bed (July and February) I did hear that April is or at least was the busiest month in the year as most northern Europeans prefer walking in cooler temperatures.

I hope that you have now gotten out of the bubble. The Plata is definitely not for everyone (I've read your other threads). It was my second Camino, like you, the year after walking the Francés. Since I had no particular expectations - a Camino Family is not my thing and long stages don't deter me - I was able to enjoy the landscape, small villages and solitude. Of course speaking Spanish was a real advantage.

There are two great cities coming up (Salamanca and Zamora) with nice municipal albergues which can't be reserved. I hope that you'll be able to experience the hospitality of these donativo albergues run by volunteers.

 

[Undermanager]

I always assume that there's no food ahead, unless totally sure otherwise. Carry a few light snacks, a croissant, a pot noodle, some energy bars, a bit of cheese. It's no fun being in a bubble. It takes all the fun out of the walk. Good luck.

 

[Antnix1]

I always assume that there's no food ahead, unless totally sure otherwise. Carry a few light snacks, a croissant, a pot noodle, some energy bars, a bit of cheese. It's no fun being in a bubble. It takes all the fun out of the walk. Good luck.

Yea. A brick of noodles and can of sardines can stay at the bottom of your pack until you need them.

 

[JustJack]

I always assume that there's no food ahead, unless totally sure otherwise. Carry a few light snacks, a croissant, a pot noodle, some energy bars, a bit of cheese. It's no fun being in a bubble. It takes all the fun out of the walk. Good luck.

I do have a jar of peanut butter I’ve been carrying since seville. It’s better than nothing.

 

[t2andreo]

One reason for me choosing the VDLP is to avoid the constant stress of the bed race on the busier routes. Alas I haven’t escaped it. Literally every bed (that I’m able to contact) is full from where I am (Canaveral) for the next 45km or so. Everywhere I contacted last night and this morning are ‘completo’. The albergue at the next stop has 20 beds and they are all booked. I suspect/hope I'm just in a bubble. Seems to be about 30-40 walking the same stage as me, making it a bed race, ala the CF. I’ve looked at every option (under 100 euros) and there’s no way I can walk to a bed tonight. So I’m going to try taking a bus to Aldeanueva del Camino, about an hour away by bus. Hopefully that will get me out of this bubble. Racing for a bed every day on the VDLP is not what I signed up for. The stages are too long and accommodation to sparse for this nonsense.
Just an FYI for others about to embark.

This is the "pig in the python" dynamic. If a large group of pilgrims - whether actually a formal group or just a lot of pilgrims who start on a Sunday, they will cause a "clog" as they move on any Camino route.

Over several days, this clog elongates, so not all people follow the same route and move at the same speed. Even if the clog of people overtax accommodations at the beginning, by mid-week, options free up.

This is why I always advise people NOT to start their Camino on a Saturday, Sunday or Monday. I also encourage people to adjust their walking pace and destinations so they do NOT end at a major place with transportation nodes - like trains - on a Friday or Saturday night at a major place, especially if it is a place where other pilgrims will join the flow.

Sometimes, you will need to add a "rest day" to pause, so others can get in front of you. It is like surfing. The smart surf rider waits beyond the breaking waves, observing each approaching wave, waiting for just the right wave before committing. This paradigm is exactly the same. Watch what most others are doing, and do something else.

On the VDLP, examples pf these nodal places might include Sevilla, Zamora, Merida, or Caerces. On the Frances: SJPdP, Pamplona, Logrono, Burgos, Leon, Ponferrada and Sarria come to mind.

These transportation nodes exist on every Camino. But, they all have one thing in common. It is easy to get there using a train or intercity bus at the end of a workweek. Logically, if you are Spanish or Portuguese, and to some degree French, you would work, then ride to your starting place on Friday evening, Saturday or Sunday.

Don't forget to factor-in holidays. If a holiday falls on a Thursday, assume everyone will take the Friday as a "bridge" day.

This is only going to be more pronounced as the school year ends in late May and June.

Avoiding these clogs, pulses or bubbles in the flow and accommodations is not complicated. It DOES require some foresight and planning. In retrospect, the best way to avoid all this unpleasantness is to simply be where the other pilgrims are not.

As mentioned above, in the peak season - now -the best method is schedule-shifting. Seen from a higher level, the best preventative is to do your Camino in the hip seasons: March - end of April; or, October - end of November. We cannot all go to the same place at the same time, and expect readily available accommodations.

With a bit of planning, you can arrange to arrive at a transportation node city or town on Tuesday, Wednesday, or Thursday. This avoids the "pig in the python" phenomenon.

Hope this helps.

Tom

 

[MajorBozo]

JJ,
I am ahead of you. The bed race continues. I am in in El Cubo de Tierra del Vino. I had to book this 3 days in advance. It seems that a lot of pilgrims dive in the middle do a few stages then bail. Thus creating random bottlenecks. I agree this not what I desire. I also picked VDLP to avoid that stress. Ahead of me reports are that it is reduced. But then again it looks to be random.

 

[JustJack]

It’s 6:10pm, and so far I’m the only one in my albergue… so hopefully I’ve escaped the crowd for the moment at least.

Another lesson I’ve learned - the price of accommodation in the bigger cities doubles on weekends. I was hoping to reach Salamanca during midweek, but looks like I’ll be there Thursday and Friday night, if I hurry. Friday night is twice the cost of Thursday. Cheapest I can find is 88 euros for the two nights. That’s a single room with private bath. If I’m taking a rest day I want a private bath.

 

[JustJack]

JJ,
I am ahead of you. The bed race continues. I am in in El Cubo de Tierra del Vino. I had to book this 3 days in advance. It seems that a lot of pilgrims dive in the middle do a few stages then bail. Thus creating random bottlenecks. I agree this not what I desire. I also picked VDLP to avoid that stress. Ahead of me reports are that it is reduced. But then again it looks to be random.

That’s a 36km day from Salamanca. I see there’s a donativa there with 16 beds. Hopefully I arrive early enough for one of those. After spending so much in Salamanca I need a cheap option for the next night in El Cubo.

 

[LTfit]

That’s a 36km day from Salamanca. I see there’s a donativa there with 16 beds. Hopefully I arrive early enough for one of those. After spending so much in Salamanca I need a cheap option for the next night in El Cubo.

But as I said there is a donativo in Salamanca. The first night you could stay there and the second night in the other place.

If you're taking the Sanabrés there is also a great donativo in Tábara.

 

[Antnix1]

That’s a 36km day from Salamanca. I see there’s a donativa there with 16 beds. Hopefully I arrive early enough for one of those. After spending so much in Salamanca I need a cheap option for the next night in El Cubo.

Cubo del tierra is expensive for what you get. Also the albergue owner has another house where he puts the overflow from the albergue.


Don't miss the pilgrim's hostel in fontanillas de castro a few days later.

Salamanca.. you can only stay 1 night in pilgrims hostel and can arrive early to drop off backpack.. i forget if it's 12-1 or 1-2. So spend thur in a hotel/hostel and Friday in the albergue to save money. No race because you'll be there already

Always a good idea to start earlier/walk shorter stages if you don't want to rush. Book ahead if you're planning a long day, like my 48km day - I didn't arrive til 8pm and you can be sure i booked ahead and rang later on to make sure i still had a bed. (This is the place you didn't find a bed).

Be careful of gronze stages as groups often follow them. If you find yourself with several groups, take a day off , walk shorter/longer/skip a day or detour to another town.

On the sanabres there were about 20 pilgrims in the albergue at one stop, the next stage had no albergue other than a place with 9 spaces over 3 shared rooms, after that a fully booked hostel. So it was 33km to the municipal, or 30km to a town off the camino (the option i took)

The next day i did a short day..... There were only 5 people in the municipal. The mob must have continued on to the next stop.

If the bed race (which doesn't exist) is a concern, just book the whole way and you can enjoy your walk.

 

[Caminowalkers]

One reason for me choosing the VDLP is to avoid the constant stress of the bed race on the busier routes. Alas I haven’t escaped it. Literally every bed (that I’m able to contact) is full from where I am (Canaveral) for the next 45km or so. Everywhere I contacted last night and this morning are ‘completo’. The albergue at the next stop has 20 beds and they are all booked. I suspect/hope I'm just in a bubble. Seems to be about 30-40 walking the same stage as me, making it a bed race, ala the CF. I’ve looked at every option (under 100 euros) and there’s no way I can walk to a bed tonight. So I’m going to try taking a bus to Aldeanueva del Camino, about an hour away by bus. Hopefully that will get me out of this bubble. Racing for a bed every day on the VDLP is not what I signed up for. The stages are too long and accommodation to sparse for this nonsense.
Just an FYI for others about to embark.

It seems like that on other routes too. Could you tell me please about the weather at this time because in planning my walk on that route, I’m concerned about heat

 

[Stivandrer]

I am in two minds about these conceptions of "bed race".

If you take for a minute the premise that an albergue will not willingly let all the beds be in the prebookable status, and thus will have a percentage of beds available for the first come, first serve category,
- then some of the pre-book customers will be confirmed in the belief that they will hear "all booked up" answers when they phone the Albergues when their quaota is full...
All the while,the non bookers arrive and find they will get a bed because there will still be space in the non book quota.

So both persuasions will be confirmed in a) albergues book up easily and camp b) there will always be a bed for me!!!

I am in the latter category and have had bookings for SJPdP and Roncesvalles and on the VdlP in both Aprils of 2017 and -19, I have had no pre bookings.
Only exception was Caceres, as a folk music festival filled up every available booking in town! We had to leave town and move on in a taxi and get a room...

What I have found too, is that if push come to shove, there will be in groups an immediate problem solving capacity to solve such a booked out situations...3 to seven people will more often than not produce a genius that will find a place on a mobile phone and in no time everybody will bundle into a taxi and take off ...

Mind you, it is not always just the camino that provides, but the group dynamics that find a way out , fueled by the hope of a bed and a meal and some red wine in the other end...

 

[Antnix1]

If you take for a minute the premise that an albergue will not willingly let all the beds be in the prebookable status,

Where did you get that from?

My understanding was municipal and not for profit are usually cheapest but usually don't allow booking.. private albergues usually let anyone book, pilgrims and tourists.

 

[Antnix1]

It seems like that on other routes too. Could you tell me please about the weather at this time because in planning my walk on that route, I’m concerned about heat

I'm bad with the heat so i walked earlier in the year.
Where and when are you starting?

A few weeks ago in ourense the temps hit 32 degrees by 3pm or so. Impossible for me, so i started walking at 7 one day and 6.30 the next. But since before easter this year, from maybe a week before Salamanca, the days have been overcast and often wet and cold. There's probably the same chance of temps being higher than average as lower than average.

To be safe, start from Seville in winter. It should be mild. You'll probably have more chance of foul weather especially as you go further north, but you can't have it every way.

Further north eg salamanca they often say 9 months invierno (winter) 3 months infierno (hell). Once you get to galicia the weather will be wetter and milder

 

[Stivandrer]

You have got to ask the pilgrims that meet the full up albergues as to which category their albergue was.
I have not met albergues that were full up, what can I say....

 

[RodlaRob]

You could try a municipal albergue. First come first served. There's one in Grimaldi, 12 beds only 8km from Canaveral. ...

Recommend that too. I stayed Grimaldi to break largish group. Good Albergue. Very good Bar next door for food (you register for Albergue here). Arrived early morning, caught bus to Plasencia to visit great historic buildings, bus back in arvo great menu del dia at the Bar!

 

[pelerine]

Thanks Rob, looking at Google maps there may or may not be some place open to eat this evening. Most are closed til tomorrow or the day after. One restaurant says open. Hope Google is correct or it’s going to be a hungry evening…

Don't forget to factor-in holidays. If a holiday falls on a Thursday, assume everyone will take the Friday as a "bridge" day.

JJ,
I am ahead of you. The bed race continues. I am in in El Cubo de Tierra del Vino. I had to book this 3 days in advance. It seems that a lot of pilgrims dive in the middle do a few stages then bail. Thus creating random bottlenecks. I agree this not what I desire. I also picked VDLP to avoid that stress. Ahead of me reports are that it is reduced. But then again it looks to be random.

Wednesday, the day after tomorrow, is May 1st. Is this a public holiday in Spain as in lots of European countries? If so, it explains some of the “bed race” and you have to plan your meals as well as your acommodation!

 

[Rita Flower]

I considered that, and maybe that’s what I should have done. But I’m in the bus now to Aldeanueva. I should be there before noon so will walk to Bano de Montemayor. I was able to make a reservation at a private albergue there. Hopefully this gets me out of the bubble I may have been in and I won’t have any more problems finding a bed. I’ll update in a day or two.

When one is walking 1007 km taking a bus doesn't seem too bad. I did it twice due to accomodation problems in autumn - once due to a giant fiesta in Zafra that filled up the next town in which the albergue was closed - and then the 30+ km section past the Embalse de Alcántara.
Other notes - for other readers
1. Grimaldi is gorgeous and cute. Well worth a short day and long rest.
2. I hit Bano de Montemayor on a weekend - oops - this spa town was completo - but there is a wonderful albergue at Puerto de Béjar a few km further on - and a lovely walk.
3. I also took a detour to Hervas - well worth seeing the old Jewish quarter and the towns commitment to this history. A highlight for me.
4. You can walk the greenway from around this point - an old railway track converted into a very pleasant walking route. I wasn’t aware of how long it was and strolled a small section in the afternoon I stayed at Puerto de Bèjar. It goes through Hervas. I believe the notes are in Gerald’s guide.

 

[Rita Flower]

I finished yesterday. Municipals and donativos were never full but twice I saw private albergues sell out. You meet more people as well. Anyway, it is your Camino, enjoy it. Buen Camino.

Perfectly true except when the albergue is unexpectedly closed - twice for me - or the town doesn’t have one. I found that while I could generally just turn up in a town on the Via there were a few times (edit- a number of times) when that didn’t work.

 

[Rita Flower]

Found a beautiful albergue at Baños de Montemayor. Albergue Turístico Vía de la Plata. The little town is beautiful as well. A bit of a change from the somewhat nondescript towns I’ve been stopping as so far. But it’s Monday, and once again almost every place is closed. Found the o ly bar open for another hour so could get a bocadilla. Sundays and Mondays can be tough finding food and drink.

​

Yes - I used to forget what day it was and got stuck a few times.

 

[Bradypus]

When one is walking 1007 km taking a bus doesn't seem too bad.

Depends on your own point of view. For me walking every step of a pilgrimage from start to finish is very important. Skipping a section by bus or taxi would undermine the whole journey for me. I'd rather just keep walking to the next village or find somewhere to bivvy outdoors than do that. On the VdlP I have occasionally broken up the longer stages by sleeping outdoors when the weather allowed.

 

[Blister Bill]

Sounds like you've jumped ahead to Banos so this is probably moot. I took a bus back to Caceres for a rest day to get myself out of a bubble from Galisteo, but was going to suggest as an option Hotel Astaurius near Jarilla. I walked there from Carcaboso then took the via verde the next day to Aldeanueva del Camino and back on the vdp proper. A great night and great food and it only works out about a 1 km deviation and that lined up nicely the next day to Banos. Buen Camino

 

[Caminowalkers]

I'm bad with the heat so i walked earlier in the year.
Where and when are you starting?

A few weeks ago in ourense the temps hit 32 degrees by 3pm or so. Impossible for me, so i started walking at 7 one day and 6.30 the next. But since before easter this year, from maybe a week before Salamanca, the days have been overcast and often wet and cold. There's probably the same chance of temps being higher than average as lower than average.

To be safe, start from Seville in winter. It should be mild. You'll probably have more chance of foul weather especially as you go further north, but you can't have it every way.

Further north eg salamanca they often say 9 months invierno (winter) 3 months infierno (hell). Once you get to galicia the weather will be wetter and milder

I’m from Western Canada (thick blood) and was planning to go mid February but couldnt get it together in time. So thats why I was asking as I’m also curious about spring on the trail

 

[domigee]

I do have a jar of peanut butter I’ve been carrying since seville. It’s better than nothing.

If you run out of peanut butter - and for those who don’t have any- don’t forget you can buy turrón ! Wonderful stuff!

 

[makingtrax]

You could try a municipal albergue. First come first served. There's one in Grimaldi, 12 beds only 8km from Canaveral. Almost everyone has to stay in Canaveral because it is 33 km from Casar de Caseres with nothing in between. Things should spread out a bit after that.

Unfortunately now the common rule in municipals is that u can also book them as well so here on Francis it can be they r also all booked out like last night here in Age. All full by midday!

 

[brian560]

Found a beautiful albergue at Baños de Montemayor. Albergue Turístico Vía de la Plata. The little town is beautiful as well. A bit of a change from the somewhat nondescript towns I’ve been stopping as so far. But it’s Monday, and once again almost every place is closed. Found the o ly bar open for another hour so could get a bocadilla. Sundays and Mondays can be tough finding food and drink.

​

I stayed there. Very nice it is too,

 

[Macker]

For me there is no competition for beds. I also don't book beds in advance. If I can't get a bed in a hostel, I sleep in my tarp (tarp from zpacks = 147 g, sleeping pad TaR ProLite Small = 378 g) somewhere in the wilderness. My backpack with equipment still only weighs 4.2 kg (without food and water). The magic word is ultralight trekking. In Germany, the ultralight trekking scene can be found in the forum https://www.ultraleicht-trekking.com.

 

[sunrise5am]

One reason for me choosing the VDLP is to avoid the constant stress of the bed race on the busier routes. Alas I haven’t escaped it. Literally every bed (that I’m able to contact) is full from where I am (Canaveral) for the next 45km or so. Everywhere I contacted last night and this morning are ‘completo’. The albergue at the next stop has 20 beds and they are all booked. I suspect/hope I'm just in a bubble. Seems to be about 30-40 walking the same stage as me, making it a bed race, ala the CF. I’ve looked at every option (under 100 euros) and there’s no way I can walk to a bed tonight. So I’m going to try taking a bus to Aldeanueva del Camino, about an hour away by bus. Hopefully that will get me out of this bubble. Racing for a bed every day on the VDLP is not what I signed up for. The stages are too long and accommodation to sparse for this nonsense.
Just an FYI for others about to embark.

Very useful to know. I hate the bed race thing and was going to continue with my VDLP (still have Merida to SdC to complete) on 18th May. I plan taking a bivvy bag, so I can do a responsible wild camp if Albergues are full, or if there are times I end the day in the middle of nowhere.

What have night temperatures been like, and have there been a lot of mosquitos?

 

[sunrise5am]

For me there is no competition for beds. I also don't book beds in advance. If I can't get a bed in a hostel, I sleep in my tarp (tarp from zpacks = 147 g, sleeping pad TaR ProLite Small = 378 g) somewhere in the wilderness. My backpack with equipment still only weighs 4.2 kg (without food and water). The magic word is ultralight trekking. In Germany, the ultralight trekking scene can be found in the forum https://www.ultraleicht-trekking.com.

That's amazingly light. How heavy is your sleeping bag and how warm? Rather than tarp I was thinking of a bivvy (360g) but I'm still at 4.3kg without sleeping bag (hoping to sleep with my clothing on, in a silk liner in the bivvy...???). Do you have problems with mosquitos, with your setup? I saw a hooped bivvy with mozzie mesh vent opening but it pushes my pack weight up to 4.8kg. As I want to run 20km of the way each day (I enjoy running), this would be getting heavy.

 

[BikeHikeChai]

Here’s a data point that may help some people south of Merida.

On the 3rd May the Pilgrim Albergue in Merida was full.

Indeed one especially disorganised bicigrino who arrived late bought a plastic inflatable thing (meant for a pool) and just plonked himself on the floor uninvited.

Of the people occupying the 16 beds, four were Mozarabe Pilgrims who ended in Merida.

Of the rest all appeared to be continuing bar one (but that’s somewhat speculative).

Two were bicigrinas who will be immediately out of step with the walkers.

In addition an even later arrival showed up at about 22:00 with no conception that it could be full. He was starting in Merida (and of course there may be others doing the same who I didn’t see). He left understandably disappointed.

So that’s a “lump” of at least ten.

Additionally all the private rooms in Merida appeared to be full too (a friend was looking for something and eventually decided to leave for Malaga).

At about 11:20am that morning there had been maybe 8 or nine people waiting at the albergue plus the two cyclists.

If you have been on the Mozarabe this crowding will come as a bit of a shock. Staying in Trujillanos the night before makes it a nice short day (12km) and an early arrival is no stress.

The trick will be to get out of sync ideally by taking a rest day in an interesting place. But that may mean planning ahead, building in sufficient buffer time and crucially knowing where the “lumps” are positioned.

Sometimes the hospitaleros keep track with one another about how many are passing through at various points. Sometimes a rare person is walking in the other direction and can give a heads up of what is ahead.

Less reliably a bicigrino might have overtaken a group that is approaching behind you.

There’s no easy fix for this especially at some pinch points. Choosing less travelled routes and out of season seems to be one option. Carrying one’s own shelter is another, but that is probably a somewhat niche approach. However it may gain in popularity if the alternative is a stressful “bed race”.

Buen Camino

 

[domigee]

What have night temperatures been like, and have there been a lot of mosquitos?

I walked it in June so temperatures at night were high, prob. Mid twenties I can’t remember but high enough to make sleeping in albergues (obv. without a/c) very unpleasant. We often all ended on the patio on garden chairs.
My point is, there were no mosquitoes!

 

[DeansFamily]

Back in 2019 we had no alternative but to bus back to Salamanca or bus forward to Zamora as everything in walking distance was full. The reason we found out was that the Green Energy companies were placing maintenance crews in whatever cheaper accommodations they could find. After slogging it out in wind, rain and mud (there were no footprints apart from our own so we knew it wasn't other pilgrims) ourselves and our very cheesed off 15 year old daughter went back to Salamanca to dry off and warm up. There will always be "blips" on any Camino, it's just a case of adapt and overcome.

 

[Macker]

That's amazingly light. How heavy is your sleeping bag and how warm? Rather than tarp I was thinking of a bivvy (360g) but I'm still at 4.3kg without sleeping bag (hoping to sleep with my clothing on, in a silk liner in the bivvy...???). Do you have problems with mosquitos, with your setup? I saw a hooped bivvy with mozzie mesh vent opening but it pushes my pack weight up to 4.8kg. As I want to run 20km of the way each day (I enjoy running), this would be getting heavy.

Of course, if possible I sleep in hostels. I prefer the public pilgrim hostels. If I can't find a bed there, I'll use my tarp. I'll have to carry it with me, but it's worth it to me. Going out early in the morning with a headlamp just to find a bed in time is not my style of hiking.

My quilt is from AsTucas (APEX 133, comfort temperature approx. 10°C, weight 525 g). When temperatures are lower, I sleep in my hiking clothes. I don't have any problems with mosquitoes because I added a mosquito net to my tarp. You can read how I did this in my blog (MYOG project C20). That would go too far here.

In February/March 2024 I walked the Caminho Portugues from Lisbon to SdC. There was obviously a big problem with bed bugs in some hostels there. In hostels I only sleep in my bivouac bag (also from AsTucas) and, if the temperatures require it, in my quilt.

In summary, my sleeping setup inside consists of a bivy bag and quilt, but never with the blankets that may be available in the hostels. For outside, i.e. in emergencies, I use the tarp, the sleeping mat, the bivy bag and the quilt.

I'm also thinking about using a waterproof bivy bag instead of the tarp. Wild camping is also forbidden in Spain/Portugal, but as far as I know, a bivouac bag is not. That's why I bought a bivouac bag from Alpkit (Kloke, 306 g). Its pack size is only half the size of the tarp. I will therefore be traveling with a waterproof bivouac bag on the Way of St. James in Spain/Portugal in the future. That's only for emergencies.

 

[sunrise5am]

I walked it in June so temperatures at night were high, prob. Mid twenties I can’t remember but high enough to make sleeping in albergues (obv. without a/c) very unpleasant. We often all ended on the patio on garden chairs.
My point is, there were no mosquitoes!

Thanks for the info

 

[duncanwhyte]

I used a bivvy bag and tarp on the Mozarabes last year for 4 nights, when I couldn't get a hostel. I took the setup again this year on the VDLP. But didn't need it. Along with cooking kit, nigh on 25lbs. Which I'll carry regularly to stay fit for more demanding walks elsewhere. Those might require 35lbs.

 

[sunrise5am]

Of course, if possible I sleep in hostels. I prefer the public pilgrim hostels. If I can't find a bed there, I'll use my tarp. I'll have to carry it with me, but it's worth it to me. Going out early in the morning with a headlamp just to find a bed in time is not my style of hiking.

My quilt is from AsTucas (APEX 133, comfort temperature approx. 10°C, weight 525 g). When temperatures are lower, I sleep in my hiking clothes. I don't have any problems with mosquitoes because I added a mosquito net to my tarp. You can read how I did this in my blog (MYOG project C20). That would go too far here.

In February/March 2024 I walked the Caminho Portugues from Lisbon to SdC. There was obviously a big problem with bed bugs in some hostels there. In hostels I only sleep in my bivouac bag (also from AsTucas) and, if the temperatures require it, in my quilt.

In summary, my sleeping setup inside consists of a bivy bag and quilt, but never with the blankets that may be available in the hostels. For outside, i.e. in emergencies, I use the tarp, the sleeping mat, the bivy bag and the quilt.

I'm also thinking about using a waterproof bivy bag instead of the tarp. Wild camping is also forbidden in Spain/Portugal, but as far as I know, a bivouac bag is not. That's why I bought a bivouac bag from Alpkit (Kloke, 306 g). Its pack size is only half the size of the tarp. I will therefore be traveling with a waterproof bivouac bag on the Way of St. James in Spain/Portugal in the future. That's only for emergencies.

That's very useful information. Many thanks. I think I'll get the Alpkit Hunka (360g), silk liner (126g) and a suspendable mosquito net (90g, just needs the head end tied up to an object or draped over a rucksack placed by your head so the mesh doesn't touch your face).
I've got a week to test whether sleeping in clothes but without my current sleeping bag (it weighs 962g) works. Night temperatures here now (Sussex) are similar to the Camino.
Happy walking.

 

[Robo]

It’s 6:10pm, and so far I’m the only one in my albergue… so hopefully I’ve escaped the crowd for the moment at least.

Another lesson I’ve learned - the price of accommodation in the bigger cities doubles on weekends. I was hoping to reach Salamanca during midweek, but looks like I’ll be there Thursday and Friday night, if I hurry. Friday night is twice the cost of Thursday. Cheapest I can find is 88 euros for the two nights. That’s a single room with private bath. If I’m taking a rest day I want a private bath.

Stop hurrying

 

[JillGat]

One reason for me choosing the VDLP is to avoid the constant stress of the bed race on the busier routes. Alas I haven’t escaped it. Literally every bed (that I’m able to contact) is full from where I am (Canaveral) for the next 45km or so. Everywhere I contacted last night and this morning are ‘completo’. The albergue at the next stop has 20 beds and they are all booked. I suspect/hope I'm just in a bubble. Seems to be about 30-40 walking the same stage as me, making it a bed race, ala the CF. I’ve looked at every option (under 100 euros) and there’s no way I can walk to a bed tonight. So I’m going to try taking a bus to Aldeanueva del Camino, about an hour away by bus. Hopefully that will get me out of this bubble. Racing for a bed every day on the VDLP is not what I signed up for. The stages are too long and accommodation to sparse for this nonsense.
Just an FYI for others about to embark.

Weird
I was just on the Sanabres and did not see ONE other person walking for about ten days. In albergues there were often like 9 people and 40 beds.

 

[domigee]

and a suspendable mosquito net (90g, just needs the head end tied up to an object or draped over a rucksack placed by your head so the mesh doesn't touch your face).

But I never encountered mosquitoes on the VdlP… Did anyone else? Maybe I was just lucky.
Plenty on the Via Francigena though

 

[Bradypus]

But I never encountered mosquitoes on the VdlP… Did anyone else? Maybe I was just lucky.

Me neither. But mostly I walked the VdlP in the middle of winter when they might have had to break the ice to get out of the water.... But those zanzare tigre in the Po valley were horrendous. At one point I had fantasies about draining every rice field and pouring concrete from Genoa to Ravenna!

 

[domigee]

Me neither. But mostly I walked the VdlP in the middle of winter when they might have had to break the ice to get out of the water.... But those zanzare tigre in the Po valley were horrendous. At one point I had fantasies about draining every rice field and pouring concrete from Genoa to Ravenna!

Well in my case I thought they might have been roasted by the dry heat!
Oooh…. The Po valley…. Impossible to stop even to re-tie your shoe laces! Not just 50 mosquitoes -which would be bad enough- but thousands of them, diving into you! Taking my T-shirt off to have a shower, there were always 3 or 4 dead in there!!!
But I disgress, sorry.

 

[JillGat]

There is one albergue on the Camino Sanabres in A Laxe that apparently has its own micro-climate that is conducive to mosquitoes. I did see one a couple of weeks ago, but no more than that. You can read about it on Gronze: https://www.gronze.com/galicia/pont...albergue-peregrinos-laxe-bendoiro/comentarios.