In Hindsight

Kev&Kath · Oct 14, 2022

VdlP planning for '23 continues at pace, and today I was re-examining our expected 'rest days' in the quite obvious places such as Zafra, Merida, Caceres, Salamanca, Banos de Montemayor and Ourense. While reviewing, my mind casts back to the Frances and the 'in hindsight' position that there were quite a few places we would have liked to have spent more time in...but didn't (Ponferrada and Santo Domingo de la Calzada immediately come to mind). So...for those that have walked the VdlP...do you have an 'in hindsight' perspective on towns that you might have really wanted to spend more time in?

Thanks, in advance, for any feedback.

Corned Beef · Oct 14, 2022

I assume not mentioning Seville was because it was obvious. But a couple of days there plus Italica is worth while.

Kev&Kath · Oct 14, 2022

Corned Beef said:
I assume not mentioning Seville was because it was obvious. But a couple of days there plus Italica is worth while.

Yep...Seville is getting three days. We're actually starting in Cadiz, so Seville is nicely positioned for an extended break. Cheers.

J Willhaus · Oct 14, 2022

Of course Zamora also has a lot of interesting history as does Salamanca.

Kev&Kath · Oct 14, 2022

J Willhaus said:
Of course Zamora also has a lot of interesting history as does Salamanca.

J thanks. I think Salamanca will be a rest day. I've read some pretty positive pilgrim reports on this town. Cheers.

Peregrinopaul · Oct 15, 2022

My vote would be Zamora. I found Salamanca exhausting!
A problem would be that you probably wouldn’t be permitted 2 nights at the beautiful albergue.
The old town is so compact, and a delight to soak in. I went into overdrive with my camera just at the Cathedral. Wait till you see those tapestries. And the river with it’s waterwheels.
I once posted that I wanna see more o’ Zamora.

lovingkindness · Oct 15, 2022

If you are able, have a few rest days with Don Blas at the Casa Paroquia in Fuenterroble de Salvatierra, before Salamanca.

Cheers!
Lovingkindness

Videos

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/fuenterroble-de-salvatierra.13740/

OzAnnie · Oct 15, 2022

Peregrinopaul said:
My vote would be Zamora. I found Salamanca exhausting!
A problem would be that you probably wouldn’t be permitted 2 nights at the beautiful albergue.

I agree with Paul. Loved Zamora., but we all don’t look at places in the same way.
The scenes around Zamora and the river & bridge are gorgeous ; especially if you get the timing right before evening of shots back toward the bridge.
Re accommodation: lots of reasonably priced hostels there.

@Kev&Kath I’m wondering how much time you are planning for your trip from Cádiz to Santiago?
Are you planning Baños de Montemayor and Ourense in order to enjoy some time at the baths?

Depending on time available ; you can sometime work a ‘rest day’ into the schedule by walking a short day and having a free afternoon there.

You may find that some of the lesser discussed places may appeal to you and you’ll call a rest day there.

Happy planning and it’s a wonderful route.
Buen camino.
Annie

Peregrinopaul · Oct 15, 2022

lovingkindness said:
If you are able, have a few rest days with Don Blas at the Casa Paroquia in Fuenterroble de Salvatierra, before Salamanca.

Cheers!
Lovingkindness

Videos

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/fuenterroble-de-salvatierra.13740/

I thought of suggesting this myself, too. Fuenterroble was an experience I shall never forget. It is the epitome place of rest and contemplation. By co-incidence I posted this on another thread 2 days ago, initially referring to the Baños albergue:
" I have fond memories of the place from 2012. Shared the albergue with one other peregrino, a Spanish gentleman, walking. (I was on a bike). He turned out to be the Professor of Sociology at Barcelona University, spoke excellent English, and was a fount of knowledge on all things camino. He suggested the baths.
He also insisted that I should stay at Fuenterroble, which I would have missed because I was doing two walk-stages per day. That turned out to be a wonderful experience, and remains my all-time favourite Albergue, still run by Fr Blas, I understand."

mla1 · Oct 15, 2022

I would also stay in Zamora!

peregrina2000 · Oct 15, 2022

Just depends on what you’re interested in, but I would put Zamora above (actually way above, if you like romanesque architecture, castles, and love modernist neighborhoods) Zafra, Ourense, and Baños de Montemayor.

Everyone has different opinions, of course, but I found that Zafra was fun for an afternoon (two plazas, nice ambiente) but the nickname of “the little Sevilla” is hyperbolic, IMHO. Ourense is not one of my favorite Spanish cities but the pórtico in the cathedral is apparently Maestro Mateo or his workshop and retains a lot more of what I think is the original paint than in Santiago. If you want a visit to the baths that would be a good reason to spend an extra day, though one year when I was there, we got the little train out in the afternoon, had our bath, and were back in time for regular bedtime. Baños de Montemayor is a pleasant place, but again unless you want to partake of the baths, I never found a whole lot to take my attention.

Let me stress, that these are my OPINIONS, and just like noses, everyone’s is different.

Robo · Oct 15, 2022

Peregrinopaul said:
My vote would be Zamora. I found Salamanca exhausting!
A problem would be that you probably wouldn’t be permitted 2 nights at the beautiful albergue.
The old town is so compact, and a delight to soak in. I went into overdrive with my camera just at the Cathedral. Wait till you see those tapestries. And the river with it’s waterwheels.
I once posted that I wanna see more o’ Zamora.

Why was Salamanca "exhausting"?

Anthony Rocco · Oct 15, 2022

To all who have made comments: Thank you, thank you, thank you. I just bought the guide on the Sanabres and have started planning for next year. I wish there was one forum thread to go to called "In Hindsight," devoted to places not to be missed on the many camino paths. My wife and I have returned to places on the Frances we missed in our first walk. It's taken a number of years and creative paths, but we've done them all. Since that first camino, we have made sure we spend extra time on other caminos we have walked. We just got home from walking the Portugues, and we did not miss the highlights, which include Tomar, Coimbra, Porto (four days!), Ponte de Lima, Valenca/Tui and Pontevedra.

Skinnybiker · Oct 15, 2022

Kev&Kath said:
Yep...Seville is getting three days. We're actually starting in Cadiz, so Seville is nicely positioned for an extended break. Cheers.

To my mind Cadiz & Sevilla are both great cities, worthy of a couple of days each, but the walk between them must be pretty mundane as it is nearly all across the Guadalquivir flood plain. Take the train or bus so as to save yourselves for the more interesting landscapes.
PS: why plan in such detail, if you like a place stay, if you don't move on? Plenty of interesting cities on this route.
PPS: I'm a bicigrino so my opinions may not count for much on this forum

RussB · Oct 15, 2022

Kev&Kath said:
VdlP planning for '23 continues at pace, and today I was re-examining our expected 'rest days' in the quite obvious places such as Zafra, Merida, Caceres, Salamanca, Banos de Montemayor and Ourense. While reviewing, my mind casts back to the Frances and the 'in hindsight' position that there were quite a few places we would have liked to have spent more time in...but didn't (Ponferrada and Santo Domingo de la Calzada immediately come to mind). So...for those that have walked the VdlP...do you have an 'in hindsight' perspective on towns that you might have really wanted to spend more time in?

Thanks, in advance, for any feedback.

Granada for sure, prob also Cordoba.

OzAnnie · Oct 15, 2022

RussB said:
Granada for sure, prob also Cordoba.

They are wonderful stops but they are on the Mozárabe well before it joins the Vdlp.

RussB · Oct 15, 2022

OzAnnie said:
They are wonderful stops but they are on the Mozárabe well before it joins the Vdlp.

Oopppsss

Peregrinopaul · Oct 15, 2022

Robo said:
Why was Salamanca "exhausting"?

There is too much to see. After one "rest day" my knees were killing me.

Kev&Kath · Oct 15, 2022

Peregrinopaul said:
My vote would be Zamora. I found Salamanca exhausting!
A problem would be that you probably wouldn’t be permitted 2 nights at the beautiful albergue.
The old town is so compact, and a delight to soak in. I went into overdrive with my camera just at the Cathedral. Wait till you see those tapestries. And the river with it’s waterwheels.
I once posted that I wanna see more o’ Zamora.

Not too worried about the albergue in Salamanca. For 'rest days' we've always opted for a hotel/pension. Such simply allows a more relaxed day where you can leave your gear and wonder the streets without the backpacks.

Kev&Kath · Oct 15, 2022

lovingkindness said:
If you are able, have a few rest days with Don Blas at the Casa Paroquia in Fuenterroble de Salvatierra, before Salamanca.

Cheers!
Lovingkindness

Videos

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/fuenterroble-de-salvatierra.13740/

Thanks Lovingkindness. I have read of Padre Blas and appreciate your reminder to visit when passing through Fuenterroble. The conundrum here is we're stopping for a rest day in Banos de Montemayor...with Fuenterroble the likely night stop after our rest day. We really do need to just take MORE time!!

Kev&Kath · Oct 15, 2022

OzAnnie said:
I agree with Paul. Loved Zamora., but we all don’t look at places in the same way.
The scenes around Zamora and the river & bridge are gorgeous ; especially if you get the timing right before evening of shots back toward the bridge.
Re accommodation: lots of reasonably priced hostels there.

@Kev&Kath I’m wondering how much time you are planning for your trip from Cádiz to Santiago?
Are you planning Baños de Montemayor and Ourense in order to enjoy some time at the baths?

Depending on time available ; you can sometime work a ‘rest day’ into the schedule by walking a short day and having a free afternoon there.

You may find that some of the lesser discussed places may appeal to you and you’ll call a rest day there.

Happy planning and it’s a wonderful route.
Buen camino.
Annie

Annie thank you...and yes it is always 'happy planning'!

I have 'scheduled' a relatively short day walking from Villanueva de Campean to Zamora (18.5km)...so should hit town early enough to get a sense of it all. I suspect (looking at the ticks of approval/recommendation across this thread) Zamora will just demand a rest day!

The above aside, Cadiz to Santiago is currently programmed for 61 days in total - inclusive of 9 rest days (three of which are in Seville). Currently thinking rest in Seville, Zafra, Merida, Caceres, Banos, Salamanca and Ourense......and Zamora (?)

Cheers Annie

Kev&Kath · Oct 15, 2022

peregrina2000 said:
Just depends on what you’re interested in, but I would put Zamora above (actually way above, if you like romanesque architecture, castles, and love modernist neighborhoods) Zafra, Ourense, and Baños de Montemayor.

Everyone has different opinions, of course, but I found that Zafra was fun for an afternoon (two plazas, nice ambiente) but the nickname of “the little Sevilla” is hyperbolic, IMHO. Ourense is not one of my favorite Spanish cities but the pórtico in the cathedral is apparently Maestro Mateo or his workshop and retains a lot more of what I think is the original paint than in Santiago. If you want a visit to the baths that would be a good reason to spend an extra day, though one year when I was there, we got the little train out in the afternoon, had our bath, and were back in time for regular bedtime. Baños de Montemayor is a pleasant place, but again unless you want to partake of the baths, I never found a whole lot to take my attention.

Let me stress, that these are my OPINIONS, and just like noses, everyone’s is different.

Peregrina...thanks so much for your input. Just another strong 'vote' I suppose for Zamora! With such guidance from the experienced walkers here I'd be foolish to not opt for a night in Zamora!

I identified Banos as an overnight because of the baths. I picked Ourense as (on current planning) we'll need a rest stop somewhere on the Sanabres. Ourense looked interesting because of its size (but expect it's the Sanabres equivalent of Sarria). Judge is still out on this leg of the pilgrimage.

Thanks again!!

Kev&Kath · Oct 15, 2022

Skinnybiker said:
To my mind Cadiz & Sevilla are both great cities, worthy of a couple of days each, but the walk between them must be pretty mundane as it is nearly all across the Guadalquivir flood plain. Take the train or bus so as to save yourselves for the more interesting landscapes.
PS: why plan in such detail, if you like a place stay, if you don't move on? Plenty of interesting cities on this route.
PPS: I'm a bicigrino so my opinions may not count for much on this forum

Oh I think bikers can provide some great advice. I enjoy the different perspective and comments. A friend of mine just completed the Frances, and taking a view of that 'path', from his perspective, was really fun.

I had read that the path from Cadiz to Seville was not that interesting and, initially, had planned to simply start the VdlP in Seville. We were always going to visit Cadiz - with a train ride into Seville after the visit. However, I came across a YouTube series by a Spanish guy that presented the walk (Via Augusta) in quite a positive light. I didn't understand a word he said (all in Spanish), but he filmed enough to spark my interest, and a bit of follow-up research on the region. Given we're not too restricted inv time...we're now really looking forward to a week's walk along the Via Augusta.

As for planning in detail...well....I enjoy it a lot and it gives me a sense of what to expect on a daily basis. Did the same for the Frances and it worked for us, but scheduling does (as I noted in this thread) lead to a bit of post-pilgrimage hindsight reflections
Do appreciate you taking time to comment!

PS The Spanish guy is Alvaro Lazaga Busto

Kev&Kath · Oct 15, 2022

Peregrinopaul said:
There is too much to see. After one "rest day" my knees were killing me.

Nothing like a rest day eh!

Miguel de Flandes · Oct 16, 2022

Kev&Kath said:
VdlP planning for '23 continues at pace, and today I was re-examining our expected 'rest days' in the quite obvious places such as Zafra, Merida, Caceres, Salamanca, Banos de Montemayor and Ourense. While reviewing, my mind casts back to the Frances and the 'in hindsight' position that there were quite a few places we would have liked to have spent more time in...but didn't (Ponferrada and Santo Domingo de la Calzada immediately come to mind). So...for those that have walked the VdlP...do you have an 'in hindsight' perspective on towns that you might have really wanted to spend more time in?

Thanks, in advance, for any feedback.

Best spot in Ourense.

Buen Camino
Miguel

Skinnybiker · Oct 17, 2022

Kev&Kath said:
Oh I think bikers can provide some great advice. I enjoy the different perspective and comments. A friend of mine just completed the Frances, and taking a view of that 'path', from his perspective, was really fun.

I had read that the path from Cadiz to Seville was not that interesting and, initially, had planned to simply start the VdlP in Seville. We were always going to visit Cadiz - with a train ride into Seville after the visit. However, I came across a YouTube series by a Spanish guy that presented the walk (Via Augusta) in quite a positive light. I didn't understand a word he said (all in Spanish), but he filmed enough to spark my interest, and a bit of follow-up research on the region. Given we're not too restricted inv time...we're now really looking forward to a week's walk along the Via Augusta.

As for planning in detail...well....I enjoy it a lot and it gives me a sense of what to expect on a daily basis. Did the same for the Frances and it worked for us, but scheduling does (as I noted in this thread) lead to a bit of post-pilgrimage hindsight reflections
Do appreciate you taking time to comment!

PS The Spanish guy is Alvaro Lazaga Busto

Kev & Kath, thanks for your gracious reply. Maybe I should qualify some of my comments a little; I don't know the route of the Via Augusta but I have ridden 2 or 3 times Sevilla - Cadiz and the worst (boring, flat, uninteresting) part is from a few kms south of Sevilla to Jerez being across the agricultural flatlands of the Guadalquivir flood plain, maybe think about a train across that section. However after viewing a couple of Alvaro's videos (and he seems to be a Chambao fan) why not start in Tarifa? The coastal route from Tarifa to Cadiz is really nice. Anyway Jerez is of course a stopover to enjoy the Sherry culture and maybe some flamenco.

What's' your schedule? As you'll know the summers (and often late spring / early autumn) are hot - it's almost 30° on the coast now and hotter inland. Have a great camino, Richard

Kev&Kath · Oct 17, 2022

Skinnybiker said:
Kev & Kath, thanks for your gracious reply. Maybe I should qualify some of my comments a little; I don't know the route of the Via Augusta but I have ridden 2 or 3 times Sevilla - Cadiz and the worst (boring, flat, uninteresting) part is from a few kms south of Sevilla to Jerez being across the agricultural flatlands of the Guadalquivir flood plain, maybe think about a train across that section. However after viewing a couple of Alvaro's videos (and he seems to be a Chambao fan) why not start in Tarifa? The coastal route from Tarifa to Cadiz is really nice. Anyway Jerez is of course a stopover to enjoy the Sherry culture and maybe some flamenco.

What's' your schedule? As you'll know the summers (and often late spring / early autumn) are hot - it's almost 30° on the coast now and hotter inland. Have a great camino, Richard

Richard...oh yes...the Sherry will be interesting! I listened to a podcast some weeks ago describing the Sherry triangle between Jerez de la Frontera and El Puerto de Santa Maria (can't remember the third apex) and was, again, encouraged by what this region, along the Via Augusta, has to offer. We're quite excited by the prospect of walking this leg.

Our schedule has us flying into Madrid on 3 Apr. Train to Cadiz on 5 Apr and we'll start walking out of Cadiz on 7 Apr (right in the middle of Semana Santa...by design). Plan to 'hole up' in Jerez Easter Sunday night and Monday. Hopefully, into Seville on 15 Apr and push on up the VdlP from there on 18 Apr. I'm eager to think the temps, by mid-April, will be on the rise and rain...less frequent. We walked the Frances in '21... late season (Nov/Dec) so we're really hanging out for days where the puffy jackets can be swapped out for shorts!! We'll see By mid June...well...God willing...a dip in the ocean off Fisterra!!

Blister Bill · Oct 27, 2022

Great to hear the planning is in full swing and that you are still planning the via Augusta ! You've identified all the great stops en route. Reflecting back there was no small town I wished I'd stayed longer in. Often it is the people you are with/meet, the body or the weather that influences the experience/decision. Just leave your plan flexible and take it as it comes. I find that I look forward to getting to one of the major places then long to be underway again ! On the Sanabres - Pueblo de Sanabria is really lovely if you were wanted a rest day between Zamora and Ourense. Not much in Funteroble and is close to Salamanca. Banos is really nice but the pools were not hot ! Really looking forward to your blog once you get underway !!

Kev&Kath · Oct 27, 2022

Blister Bill said:
Great to hear the planning is in full swing and that you are still planning the via Augusta ! You've identified all the great stops en route. Reflecting back there was no small town I wished I'd stayed longer in. Often it is the people you are with/meet, the body or the weather that influences the experience/decision. Just leave your plan flexible and take it as it comes. I find that I look forward to getting to one of the major places then long to be underway again ! On the Sanabres - Pueblo de Sanabria is really lovely if you were wanted a rest day between Zamora and Ourense. Not much in Funteroble and is close to Salamanca. Banos is really nice but the pools were not hot ! Really looking forward to your blog once you get underway !!

Thanks Blister Bill. Your comment on '...longing to be underway again' certainly resonates with me. Felt that a couple of times on the Frances...just felt like walking when a 'rest day' had been programmed. So yes....not attempting too much planning post Seville, and will just see where our efforts land us. Cheers, Kev

Camino Chrissy · Apr 22, 2024

After a smooth and uneventful flight from Chicago to Madrid on Iberia, the last three days we have been doing some sightseeing in Salamanca and Zamora, and our days have been sunny, a little cool...

JustJack · Friday at 9:11 PM

I think I’m on day 12, so not quite two weeks in. Thus far the VDLP is definitely a different animal than the CF. And I have to say, I’m struggling to enjoy it as much as the CF last year. I...

JustJack · 2024-04-29T09:29:28+0200

One reason for me choosing the VDLP is to avoid the constant stress of the bed race on the busier routes. Alas I haven’t escaped it. Literally every bed (that I’m able to contact) is full from...

Cynistra · Apr 22, 2024

After 13 days of walking I've finished my 337km walk on the Camino Sanabres, and my entire 1400km walk from Almería. Yay! If anyone's interested in a day-by-day report, you can find it on my...

ScottG · Wednesday at 12:18 PM

Hello, Has anyone travelled by train or bus from Santiago to Zamora on to Granja de Moreruela, I've checked online and it seems there is a train from Santiago to Zamora. I will be flying from the...

JillGat · Tuesday at 9:14 AM

I left them on the trail about 4-5 k before Cea I expect to be in Santiago on April 27-28. Mu email is written on the sides of the poles (for just this eventuality). If you find them and we can...

In Hindsight

Active Member

Veteran Member

Active Member

Veteran Member

Active Member

Veteran Member

Veteran Member

Veteran Member

Veteran Member

Veteran Member

Moderator

Veteran Member

Active Member

The Skinny Biker in Spain

Active Member

Veteran Member

Active Member

Veteran Member

Active Member

Active Member

Active Member

Active Member

Active Member

Active Member

Member

Attachments

The Skinny Biker in Spain

Active Member

Active Member

Active Member

Most read last week in this forum

Similar threads

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency