Le Puy to SJPP

[crslater]

I'm planning to hike the Via Podense in May 2008, previously did the camino francés from SJPP to Compostela in May 2006, becoming a confirmed camino-head. Any advice would be welcome, esp how do gîtes compare with albergues? Thanks - Chris, Asheville, N.C.

 

[Deleted member 397]

Chris
I walked the route you are planning in late june/july/ausgust. Be prepared for stiff climbs out of le puy for quite a few days-but quite beautiful. The gites were generally nicer than on the CF and a little dearer.You also get the option, in many of them, of half board-dinner,a bed and breakfast-usually aroud 26 euro so not a cheap option. There are some very attractive towns on the way; cahors, conques moissac etc.
I liked the french portion MUCH better than entering spain when you get all the idiots racing for beds by lunchtime. You can book gites ahead but i never found one that was full and I was walking in a busy period-not that there many walkers at all. The Raju book is not the best but the red and white signs are everywhere.
Good luck!

 

[vinotinto]

I didn't start from Le Puy (I did the Camino from St. Jean to Santiago in July-Aug of 07), but I met an older Norwegian man on the Way who did begin there (and he had two artificial knees!). He liked walking that route, but mentioned that the afternoon rains often prevented his laundry from drying out. When that happened, he had to pin it to his pack in hopes of drying it while walking - but sometimes even that didn't help due to rain during the day.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Chris,

I have walked the route between LePuy and SJPP a couple of times, never all at once unfortunately. I've been there in May and in June and never saw anything approaching the crowds on the Frances at that time. We usually called ahead a day or two in advance and were always able to find something in a gite, or sometimes in a small hotel. It's an incredibly beautiful walk of varied terrain but as many others have noted, it does not have the same "feeling" as the Camino Frances. We met many Europeans taking a two or three week vacation walk, so there were many more people starting and stopping at different places. So we rarely saw the same people, except for those few going either to SJPP or on to Santiago. I think the Miam Miam Dodo guide is very good for places to eat and sleep, and you really don't need a guide for navigating, because those red and white markers are very well maintained.

I would highly recommend that you consider taking the "detour" route along the Cele River, it may add a day or two but it it just beautiful, with lots of very small beautiful villages. It's a well marked turnoff, soon after Figeac I believe. I've got a journal or two filled with notes if you have specific questions. Lucky you, it's a great walk.

 

[brendan nolan]

Hi Chris,
I've walked the Le Puy route twice, once in 1996 and again in 2005, both times in one go, leaving Le Puy towards the end of April. The route is tough but beautiful and as you leave Le Puy you climb on to the Aubrac Plateau where you are very exposed and the weather conditions can be very wet, with visibility down to 30 metres at times. You will descend 1st or 2nd day into St. Privat d'Allier - in wet weather the descent can be quite dangerous under foot - I got away with some stitches in my face but I heard that others had broken bones.
I found the gites comfortable; those that are run locally have to have both showers and cooking facilities and therefore needn't be too expensive. There is also plenty of private accommodation.
Regarding numbers there are some things to be considered. Firstly, there are about 50 pilgrims a day leaving Le Puy in the final days of April, this rises to about 200 per day at the height of summer; so on that count you should be ok for accommodation. Secondly, as you move along the route numbers may build as pilgrims who have walked for a week or two in previous years pick up their pilgrimage again. Then there is the third factor, the route is popular with walkers and so numbers may also increase at weekends or around the time of feast days, eg Pentecost; once or twice had to go off route for a bed.
You will probably be one of the exceptions on this route in that you intend to walk all the way, I found most pilgrims could only spare the time to walk for about 2 weeks. There were one or two others walking all the way but they but they were going at a different pace from me, but I eventually finished walking with 2 pilgrims who had started again at Cahors and Moissac and we arrived in Santiago the same day.
It is different from the route in Spain in that there are fewer pilgrims and certainly far less than in Spain in summer. With fewer mumbers the atmosphere can be calmer, more relaxed, less stressful.
That's all for the moment but if you have a questions, feel free.
Best wishes,
Brendan

 

[KiwiNomad06]

Chris
I am planning to start mid-April in Le Puy. But I will definitely be "slow" so you may well catch me up. Say hi if you see a Kiwi with a red pack on!
Margaret

 

[KiwiNomad06]

as you leave Le Puy you climb on to the Aubrac Plateau where you are very exposed and the weather conditions can be very wet, with visibility down to 30 metres at times.
Brendan

Brendan,
As one who is about to start walking in mid-April from Le Puy, I am wondering how hard is it to follow the route on the Aubrac Plateau when the visibility is so low? Is the track itself fairly clear underfoot or do you need to rely on being able to see the waymarkers?
Margaret

 

[crslater]

Omar504, vinotinto, peregrina2000, brendan nolan, Kiwi Nomad 06, thank you so much for your comments. These flavours from kindred spirits are so helpful.
Margaret, I'll look out for you, I'll have a purple pack!
Happy trails to all
Chris