On the road (again)...

[PEI_Heather]

Here it is, day five: Beautiful Tomar.

I've declared today, and maybe tomorrow, a rest day. I've, alas, developed the start of achilles tendinitis and am using RICE (rest, ice, compression and elevation) as well as Ibuprofen, massage and stretching to help deal with it. The first four days of walking 30-32 kms are a shock to the body--at least to THIS body (even after training at home). My two friends and I walked perhaps a bit too fast, my pack was (was--now not) perhaps a bit too heavy, the breaks were a bit too few. It's early days of the injury and fortunately I have treated enough such overuse conditions in my practice that I know what to do with this one. And am listening to my body and not my ego (though it was a struggle for a wee bit). I've stopped walking for a day or two.

The downside: not walking. The upside: I get to explore a bit more of our landing stage than if I was walking all day.

But and so, here is the trip so far (not necessarily in order, but from memory):

Day one and two: not so bad. There is some highway walking, but now there has been rerouting to riverside boardwalks. There is one case where the Camino has not been rerouted, but if you go straight up a dirt road to a parking lot, you'll come to a boardwalk that avoids walking alongside of the light industrial area. I'll look in my journal to find out where this is, but it's in another room right now.

The industrial areas were not so terrible as I read them here. There isn't any heavy duty manufacturing but industrial parks. In Portugal, many companies have fences up and between their buildings and the fence, gardens or trees and other plants. It's not that offensive.

The highway walking. Also not so bad. We left Lisbon on Sunday so the traffic was light. The two places that were the most disconcerting were a country road that had no shoulder but lots of traffic (even on a Sunday) and some fast drivers at that. Again, I'll get my book in a bit to give the location. And the road Laurie mentions with the wide shoulder on the national highway...lots of trucks. But the shoulder IS wide. The Portuguese ride their bikes and walk on these roads, so... I was expecting 4-6 lane highways from the sounds of concern here. The roads are not the super highways, but two lanes. People/cars/trucks pull over to the other side of the road when passing walkers. You just have to walk defensively...as you would on the Camino Frances or at home.

The boardwalks are lovely...have el fresco cafes, pretty views, trees...

The credential is NOT available on Saturdays or Sundays at the Cathedral OR the church of the Martyrs in Lisbon. Apparently they are available at the Church of Santiago... I'm not sure if the Sat/Sun deal applies there as well. If you, like me, intended on buying one when you got to Lisbon and go on these days, you are out of luck. (I got in to Lisbon on Friday evening.) You can get a carimbo (stamp/sello) at the Cathedral however on Sat/Sun. I used the back of my Brierly book until we got to Santarem, when I was able to buy one at the Santarem Hostel. I had no trouble with accommodation.

Oh, carimbos have been available at all of our accommodation. And I think at more places--you can ask. All the person you ask can say is no, if he/she doesn't have a stamp.

So far the waymarking has been fine. It just requires a bit of attention, but the markers are there. Maybe because we are three walkers; someone is always looking for the yellow arrows. Two places to be aware of, however:
0 After Santarem, in the grape vine fields/corn fields, there is a fork in the road. There doesn't seem to be a marker but there is a white steel shed where the road divides. The yellow arrow is in the upper righthand corner of the shed, indicating to go straight. There is another arrow soon after, on a small concrete marker close to the ground on the right. (Before a farm road going into the fields.)
0 Before Golego, where there was a fork in the road. One path went up a hill to the right and the other path (road) went straight...was in the cork plantation that Brierley talks about. There was some clearing/cutting so lots of brush (branches, twigs, sticks) in a big pile on the side of the pathway to the right. In the midst of this was the big stone marker with the yellow arrow...pointing to the pathway up the hill. We covered put a big cross using sticks over that and put a stone arrow in a visible spot before the fork pointing in the right direction. If you go up the hill to your right, you will be off the Camino. Walking straight ahead--you will pass a derelict building--then turning right after that building, you will see a yellow arrow leading you in the proper direction.

The worst day for us was Day three. There was a long stretch before we arrived in Santarem--15 or 17 km-- in the hot, intense, unrelenting sun with no places to stop for rest or water. Brierley indicates that there are several cafes/bars in this section, but there are none; they are closed. Take LOTS of water. If you see a woman in a car offering help, it will be Teresa from the Santarem Hostel. Take it. Take the water and take her help. She is not offering it for an insignificant reason. (She wasn't on the road when we were; she told us this at dinner...she's helped a number of pilgrims, she said.)

The new hostel in Santarem is SPECTACULAR. Brand new and beautiful. 15E including breakfast. Mario and Teresa will make dinner, by donation. We had a delicious chicken and pasta dish with wine and ice cream (with homemade hot chocolate sauce) for dessert...a fresco on the beautiful terrace off the kitchen. Both Mario and Teresa speak English, some Italian and I think, French (as well as Portuguese).

Also the German hostel in Golega mentioned in Brierley's book, is closed. The people there haven't taken in any guests in over a year. We stayed at Boutique do Bolo on Rua D. Afonso Henriques... 60 Euros for a two bedroom salon beside the cafe of the same name...It had a big living area with table, couch (one dble bed) and settee, a bedroom (dble bed) and a big bathroom. Fresh sheets and towels. So 20E each. The owner of the cafe, Mario, speaks some English and French.

Now I'm at the Hostel 2300 Thomas in Tomar and it is equally as wonderful as the Santarem Hostel. Price is 12.50 Euros for pilgrims. We're in a six bed dorm. It is as clean as a whistle with fresh sheets. Towels are 1 Euro each to rent. Free internet. Beautiful deco and furniture. A kitchen. Laundry (4E wash; 4E dry or 7.50E for both; or wash in the sink and dry on the patio/terrace). TV. Friendly.

That's all I can think of for now. Actually what I'm thinking about is WHAT am I doing online when Tomar is out there! I'm heading out to see the sights...to see some Templar buildings. I've discovered an ancestor of mine was (may well have been) a Knight Templar, so this will be interesting! Must go get some pastry...the pastry here is amazing! (OH and so far, the food has been cheap but not in taste...very rich and delisious. A+ for the food!)

Cheers for now!
Heather

 

[naplesdon]

I'm feeling for you. Slow your pace after your rest day and then let your body, legs and feet tell you what you are capable of doing.

 

[Diogo92]

Hello my friend! Glad to hear something from you.

I really enjoyed knowing that it's almost everything ok with you. Be aware of the pastries, they are a killer for budget and to get fat!

Hope you improve in the next days. For what you described in there, the ways near the river and with gravel probably are near Póvoa de Santa Iria and Alverca. I'm sure that at least one of these places, it's one of the ones that you mentioned on your text.

Tomar it's really wonderful. I'm trying to go there on my December vacations.

Get well soon!

Bom Caminho Peregrino

Best Regards
Diogo

 

[PEI_Heather]

Thanks Don and Diogo! Sorry we missed each other in Lisboa, Diogo but maybe another time!
I met someone today here in the hostel who has walked the Camino (Frances and Portugal) several times. He said that there really isn't the need for such long days--there are pensions and residencials in every town. It's just a matter of finding those...
I'll decide tomorrow morning if I walk or get transport to the next stop; I'll see how I feel in the morning. My friends had a helluva day today, they said. The 30 plus km days are getting to them too.
I'll be back when there is another computer handy; I'll be able to confirm if those are the spots, Diogo.
(No worries on the pastries; I'm enjoying them especially when we are walking. The calories are getting burned off...and I'm already pretty stick-like! Hahah!)

 

[KatWanderlust]

Sounds very sensible Heather! Dad and I just came through from Santarem and decided after all those 30km days we were knackered so took the train the 34km into Porto. Brilliant choice and our bodies are super grateful! It's pouring rain here in Portella right now so I hope you're warm and dry too!!!

- Kat

 

[Albertinho]

Sounds very sensible Heather! Dad and I just came through from Santarem and decided after all those 30km days we were knackered so took the train the 34km into Porto. Brilliant choice and our bodies are super grateful! It's pouring rain here in Portella right now so I hope you're warm and dry too!!!

- Kat

From Santarèm to Tomar is about 70 kms. From there to Coimbra another 100 kms and so on to Porto is another 100 kms so I wonder where you took the train for 34 kms to Porto ?

The last step before Porto is São Joāo da Madeira , about 30 kms and there was no train but we found after about 15 kms walking from there in Grijó a busstation and I thought for 3€ each the bus brought us to the Batalha bus station in the center of Porto , avoiding a bouring piece of asphaltos and busy trafic in the Porto suburb Vila Nova da Gaía.

Bom caminho and hoping the weather improves

 

[Diogo92]

From Santarèm to Tomar is about 70 kms. From there to Coimbra another 100 kms and so on to Porto is another 100 kms so I wonder where you took the train for 34 kms to Porto ?

The last step before Porto is São Joāo da Madeira , about 30 kms and there was no train but we found after about 15 kms walking from there in Grijó a busstation and I thought for 3€ each the bus brought us to the Batalha bus station in the center of Porto , avoiding a bouring piece of asphaltos and busy trafic in the Porto suburb Vila Nova da Gaía.

Bom caminho and hoping the weather improves

I'm sure it will improve, rain for at least one week

Best Regards
Diogo

 

[Urban trekker1]

Here it is, day five: Beautiful Tomar.

I've declared today, and maybe tomorrow, a rest day. I've, alas, developed the start of achilles tendinitis and am using RICE (rest, ice, compression and elevation) as well as Ibuprofen, massage and stretching to help deal with it. The first four days of walking 30-32 kms are a shock to the body--at least to THIS body (even after training at home). My two friends and I walked perhaps a bit too fast, my pack was (was--now not) perhaps a bit too heavy, the breaks were a bit too few. It's early days of the injury and fortunately I have treated enough such overuse conditions in my practice that I know what to do with this one. And am listening to my body and not my ego (though it was a struggle for a wee bit). I've stopped walking for a day or two.

The downside: not walking. The upside: I get to explore a bit more of our landing stage than if I was walking all day.

But and so, here is the trip so far (not necessarily in order, but from memory):

Day one and two: not so bad. There is some highway walking, but now there has been rerouting to riverside boardwalks. There is one case where the Camino has not been rerouted, but if you go straight up a dirt road to a parking lot, you'll come to a boardwalk that avoids walking alongside of the light industrial area. I'll look in my journal to find out where this is, but it's in another room right now.

The industrial areas were not so terrible as I read them here. There isn't any heavy duty manufacturing but industrial parks. In Portugal, many companies have fences up and between their buildings and the fence, gardens or trees and other plants. It's not that offensive.

The highway walking. Also not so bad. We left Lisbon on Sunday so the traffic was light. The two places that were the most disconcerting were a country road that had no shoulder but lots of traffic (even on a Sunday) and some fast drivers at that. Again, I'll get my book in a bit to give the location. And the road Laurie mentions with the wide shoulder on the national highway...lots of trucks. But the shoulder IS wide. The Portuguese ride their bikes and walk on these roads, so... I was expecting 4-6 lane highways from the sounds of concern here. The roads are not the super highways, but two lanes. People/cars/trucks pull over to the other side of the road when passing walkers. You just have to walk defensively...as you would on the Camino Frances or at home.

The boardwalks are lovely...have el fresco cafes, pretty views, trees...

The credential is NOT available on Saturdays or Sundays at the Cathedral OR the church of the Martyrs in Lisbon. Apparently they are available at the Church of Santiago... I'm not sure if the Sat/Sun deal applies there as well. If you, like me, intended on buying one when you got to Lisbon and go on these days, you are out of luck. (I got in to Lisbon on Friday evening.) You can get a carimbo (stamp/sello) at the Cathedral however on Sat/Sun. I used the back of my Brierly book until we got to Santarem, when I was able to buy one at the Santarem Hostel. I had no trouble with accommodation.

Oh, carimbos have been available at all of our accommodation. And I think at more places--you can ask. All the person you ask can say is no, if he/she doesn't have a stamp.

So far the waymarking has been fine. It just requires a bit of attention, but the markers are there. Maybe because we are three walkers; someone is always looking for the yellow arrows. Two places to be aware of, however:
0 After Santarem, in the grape vine fields/corn fields, there is a fork in the road. There doesn't seem to be a marker but there is a white steel shed where the road divides. The yellow arrow is in the upper righthand corner of the shed, indicating to go straight. There is another arrow soon after, on a small concrete marker close to the ground on the right. (Before a farm road going into the fields.)
0 Before Golego, where there was a fork in the road. One path went up a hill to the right and the other path (road) went straight...was in the cork plantation that Brierley talks about. There was some clearing/cutting so lots of brush (branches, twigs, sticks) in a big pile on the side of the pathway to the right. In the midst of this was the big stone marker with the yellow arrow...pointing to the pathway up the hill. We covered put a big cross using sticks over that and put a stone arrow in a visible spot before the fork pointing in the right direction. If you go up the hill to your right, you will be off the Camino. Walking straight ahead--you will pass a derelict building--then turning right after that building, you will see a yellow arrow leading you in the proper direction.

The worst day for us was Day three. There was a long stretch before we arrived in Santarem--15 or 17 km-- in the hot, intense, unrelenting sun with no places to stop for rest or water. Brierley indicates that there are several cafes/bars in this section, but there are none; they are closed. Take LOTS of water. If you see a woman in a car offering help, it will be Teresa from the Santarem Hostel. Take it. Take the water and take her help. She is not offering it for an insignificant reason. (She wasn't on the road when we were; she told us this at dinner...she's helped a number of pilgrims, she said.)

The new hostel in Santarem is SPECTACULAR. Brand new and beautiful. 15E including breakfast. Mario and Teresa will make dinner, by donation. We had a delicious chicken and pasta dish with wine and ice cream (with homemade hot chocolate sauce) for dessert...a fresco on the beautiful terrace off the kitchen. Both Mario and Teresa speak English, some Italian and I think, French (as well as Portuguese).

Also the German hostel in Golega mentioned in Brierley's book, is closed. The people there haven't taken in any guests in over a year. We stayed at Boutique do Bolo on Rua D. Afonso Henriques... 60 Euros for a two bedroom salon beside the cafe of the same name...It had a big living area with table, couch (one dble bed) and settee, a bedroom (dble bed) and a big bathroom. Fresh sheets and towels. So 20E each. The owner of the cafe, Mario, speaks some English and French.

Now I'm at the Hostel 2300 Thomas in Tomar and it is equally as wonderful as the Santarem Hostel. Price is 12.50 Euros for pilgrims. We're in a six bed dorm. It is as clean as a whistle with fresh sheets. Towels are 1 Euro each to rent. Free internet. Beautiful deco and furniture. A kitchen. Laundry (4E wash; 4E dry or 7.50E for both; or wash in the sink and dry on the patio/terrace). TV. Friendly.

That's all I can think of for now. Actually what I'm thinking about is WHAT am I doing online when Tomar is out there! I'm heading out to see the sights...to see some Templar buildings. I've discovered an ancestor of mine was (may well have been) a Knight Templar, so this will be interesting! Must go get some pastry...the pastry here is amazing! (OH and so far, the food has been cheap but not in taste...very rich and delisious. A+ for the food!)

Cheers for now!
Heather

Heather, so glad to here from you. I'm happy for you on your first few days of walking and sorry about the planter fasciitis. My first Camino I pushed to hard the first few days and developed blisters, tons of hot spots and a lot of pain. Fortunately for me the pain reach a tolerable level of discomfort and I was able to continue walking. For me it was a case of the wrong shoes. I think I have the shoe issue licked. Time will tell. Glad for the update on lodgings. My trekking partner and I have decided to train to Porto and start our Caminho there. Looking forward to you updates. Stay safe get better and Bom Caminho. Tony

 

[stevenjarvis]

Heather, thanks for sharing ! Hope you are feeling better and able to move on . It's great to share your journey. Bon Camino

PS "hot, intense, unrelenting sun" sounds challenging, but fabulous from a cold dull grey autumnal England. The grass often seems greener....

 

[PEI_Heather]

Sounds very sensible Heather! Dad and I just came through from Santarem and decided after all those 30km days we were knackered so took the train the 34km into Porto. Brilliant choice and our bodies are super grateful! It's pouring rain here in Portella right now so I hope you're warm and dry too!!!

- Kat

I think we were halfway to Alvaiazere when that rain hit, Kat. Sebastian has an Altus so was warm and dry; both Sheila and I had raincoats and pack covers and were soaked by the time we got to the residential. Best buy ever though: I picked up a cheap dry bag before I left Canada so my stuff was also dry. There was no laundry facilities nor even a clothesline so the room was strewn with soggy wet things. And, alas, they were (most) still damp in the morning. Last night we were at the hostel at Rabacel and fortunately there was a space heater there. The still soggy things (it rained a bit yesterday too, en route) were quickly dried. Tonight: Mealhada! And laundry!!!! (With no laundry, our handwashing hasn't provided exactly...um, spectacularly clean clothing. We´ve been sporting the Eau de Horse aroma for the last couple of days. Erk!) Soon that will pass!!!

 

[PEI_Heather]

From Santarèm to Tomar is about 70 kms. From there to Coimbra another 100 kms and so on to Porto is another 100 kms so I wonder where you took the train for 34 kms to Porto ?

The last step before Porto is São Joāo da Madeira , about 30 kms and there was no train but we found after about 15 kms walking from there in Grijó a busstation and I thought for 3€ each the bus brought us to the Batalha bus station in the center of Porto , avoiding a bouring piece of asphaltos and busy trafic in the Porto suburb Vila Nova da Gaía.

Bom caminho and hoping the weather improves

Thanks for the tip, Albertinho; we´re a pretty stubborn bunch so will probably walk in to Porto. The weather today was excellent for walking: overcast and warm. And a little breeze! But oh! Oh those damned flies!!!!!!

 

[PEI_Heather]

Heather, so glad to here from you. I'm happy for you on your first few days of walking and sorry about the planter fasciitis. My first Camino I pushed to hard the first few days and developed blisters, tons of hot spots and a lot of pain. Fortunately for me the pain reach a tolerable level of discomfort and I was able to continue walking. For me it was a case of the wrong shoes. I think I have the shoe issue licked. Time will tell. Glad for the update on lodgings. My trekking partner and I have decided to train to Porto and start our Caminho there. Looking forward to you updates. Stay safe get better and Bom Caminho. Tony

Hey Tony! That sounds great! The Portuguese trail is certainly challenging to start from Lisboa and not for everyone. Even with my break due to my short bout with achilles tendonitis (sorry, not plantar fasciitis...knock on wood)(the achilles seems to be doing OK....knock on wood again!) I wouldn´t have missed this part...very similar to walking to Finisterre and Muxia, there are so few people. The Portuguese people are lovely as is the landscape. And the hostels? Fresh sheets and towels anyone?!

I got blisters my first two days but now am only dealing with sore feet from all the walking. No blisters. Now, if you looked at my feet, you´d think differently...I´ve got so much moleskin and bandaides on them! That´s preventative, to avoid rubbing from the straps of my Tevas. Sandals are the way to go.

It is now pouring rain now. I´m glad we´re in and not out. But every bit of my clothing has been washed and on a clothes line outdoors. Methinks I will be walking in wet, if not damp, clothing tomorrow. *Sigh*

 

[Urban trekker1]

Heather, I monitor the weather in Santiago and sorry to say the weather picture is not good. Looks like rain or sun with rain showers for the next 4 days. Hope you got that poncho and umbrella. Be glad it was the Achilles tendon and not plantar fasciitis. The latter is easier to treat and deal with and responds to ibuprofen very well. You can also strap your ankle and keep going if you have to. The plantar fasciitis is a different beast. As far a the mole skin goes, a once of prevention is worth more than a kilos of cure. Have fun rain or shine young lady. Bom Caminho Tony

 

[Urban trekker1]

I think we were halfway to Alvaiazere when that rain hit, Kat. Sebastian has an Altus so was warm and dry; both Sheila and I had raincoats and pack covers and were soaked by the time we got to the residential. Best buy ever though: I picked up a cheap dry bag before I left Canada so my stuff was also dry. There was no laundry facilities nor even a clothesline so the room was strewn with soggy wet things. And, alas, they were (most) still damp in the morning. Last night we were at the hostel at Rabacel and fortunately there was a space heater there. The still soggy things (it rained a bit yesterday too, en route) were quickly dried. Tonight: Mealhada! And laundry!!!! (With no laundry, our handwashing hasn't provided exactly...um, spectacularly clean clothing. We´ve been sporting the Eau de Horse aroma for the last couple of days. Erk!) Soon that will pass!!!

Heather, it's the Camino! We all smell like Eau de Horse and sometimes Eau de the other end and no one cares.. The cleanliness of ones washed clothing is, I guess, a state of mind. To my mind, if I washed them or went swimming with them on, they are clean.

 

[PEI_Heather]

Heather, it's the Camino! We all smell like Eau de Horse and sometimes Eau de the other end and no one cares.. The cleanliness of ones washed clothing is, I guess, a state of mind. To my mind, if I washed them or went swimming with them on, they are clean.

Hahaha! Yeah, I hear ya! What was worse about smelling like a horse (either end) was knowing that I had NO clean clothes! In Mealhada, I borrowed a sweatshirt from Sebastian (the guy does not pack light) and wrapped my sleeping bag liner around me a la sarong! It worked while my clothes were being washed and dried.

Today, arrived in Porto. Up for a 6am departure and in the city (at the Yes! Hostel--recommended) at 4:30pm. I don´t recommend such early risings in a strange town, looking for small markings such as yellow arrows...lots of wild goose chases will be had. (Was not my idea, by the way...) In order to stave off the 34km day, we walked to the outskirts of the city and caught a bus into the central. Now that was genius! Having an 8km (+/-) slog after today´s walk was not what I would have looked forward too. The bus driver actually pulled over beside me and asked if we wanted a lift. Baby! You´ve got it!!!
The achilles tendon seems to be fine, but now a new problem has arisen (and I´m not pleased!!!). I have a blister or infection or corn on the bottom of my foot by toes 2 and 3 (big toe is #1). It was very uncomfortable walking in today. I might just stay here in Porto another day, to let it heal (or start to). I am feeling that it might also be time for me to do some walking on my own here on this Camino....meet my two friends in Santiago.

But other than that, I just got a box I mailed to myself from Somewhere On The Camino...in it is the new uber rain poncho I bought in Lisbon. (Silly me...never buy anything before the Camino, and in the same vein, never ship something to yourself that you may have second thoughts about!) I saw on the news the weather in Spain and especially in Santiago...yikes! Hopefully, however, in 10 or 11 days, everything will be a big more calm. And dry. But I do want to try my new fancy rain poncho... maybe even better than an Altus?!!

 

[PEI_Heather]

Heather, it's the Camino! We all smell like Eau de Horse and sometimes Eau de the other end and no one cares.. The cleanliness of ones washed clothing is, I guess, a state of mind. To my mind, if I washed them or went swimming with them on, they are clean.

No one cares if the person sitting beside you is a pilgrim! If you are, however, a dainty little old lady, there is much ado about something!

 

[Urban trekker1]

No one cares if the person sitting beside you is a pilgrim! If you are, however, a dainty little old lady, there is much ado about something!

Sorry about the foot. I'm a retired Navy Corpsman and nurse. Not sure what you have. Could be a callus acting up too. Rest is always a good idea. Use caution though if it is an infection. A mild cellulitis can become a life threatening emergency real fast. If you can, get someone with a medical background to look at it before you continue your Camino.
For what its worth, my wife is convinced that she will die if she can't shower on a daily basis. We like to camp but I'm limited as to where we can go. No showers. no go. Me, I was in the Navy. Once the ship I was on was only able to make enough fresh water for the boilers. With the exception of food handlers, the crew went 14 days with a shower. Talk about gammy. Bom Caminho Tony

 

[PEI_Heather]

I used to have some friends who were submariners, Tony...I´ve heard their stories!!!! Gah! ;P

The foot...it was a splinter that wedged itself in pretty deep. Took a day plus to emerge--prior to that that Good Doctor Sebastian got me some penicillin from a farmacia. (He really is a doctor.) And when the splinter came up (in a blister, "#$%& thing!!!), he got it out for me. The area is still slightly inflammed--was a really deep piece of a tree but I´m on the mend. Walking is fine.

Arrived in Pont De Lima almost two hours ago. Even though it´s dark, it is obvious it is a beautiful town. Oldest in Portugal! Tomorrow is only 18.4 (?) km so we´ll stick around for a wee bit to explore.

You should really consider starting your Camino Portuguese further south, Tony: Lisbon.... Santarum.... Tomar.... Coimbra... You will miss so much by only starting in Porto... This is such a a beautiful plce, right, Diogo?!

A couple positives: oh my, the pastries! The residentials (like B&B hotels...small and wonderful. And cheap!) And with the exception of only one or two, every single bathroom in every single cafe, bar, gas station was clean as a whistle--and had soap and towels--as well as was beautifully designed or decorated! Truth!

Have to go and get off this 1978 Compaq computer ...it is slow and driving me crazy! (Plus I´m in a dimly lit room so can´t see what I´m typing!)

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Heather, I don't know how it is possible, but I have not seen this thread till now. I've read it all in one gulp and I am so happy to hear that things are going well for you. It sounds like things have improved a lot between Lisbon and Porto in terms of the route and the accommodations. The food has always been great.

Thanks so much for writing to us, I will keep a lookout for future posts. Ponte de Lima is one of my favorite cities in Portugal, it is just beautiful. Enjoy enjoy, buen camino, Laurie

 

[Urban trekker1]

Remember Heather, it's not normal to serve on a ship that they sink on purpose! Submariners are not normal! so the stories they told are probably true. As for me, I was a fleet sailor and served on greyhounds. One of our jobs was to look for and sink Subs.

How did you get a splinter in your foot? Sounds like you have it under control. Be sure to keep an eye on it for a few more days. Take the PCN until its gone not until your foot feels better!

I would love to start closer to Lisbon and while I'm retired and have lots of time, my traveling companion still works and has time constraints. Still we will look into it. My wife will join me on the day my friend Craig goes home. We are going to rent a car and spend a few weeks traveling the Sun Coast.

Thanks for the heads up on the residentials. We will keep them in mind on our trip. How did/do you find them on your trek? Bom Caminho Tony

 

[Albertinho]

Ola Heather !
Lots of succes walking your next trail to Rubiaes tomorrow. 18,4 kms.
These kms are still in my mind. Unforgetable.
Best regards
albertinho

 

[Doratheexplorer-13]

Heather,
I am glad you have sorted out your feet!! I am waiting to board my plane in Vancouver... via Montreal.. Geneva for a few, before my start in Porto!!!!

I guess the arrows will good enough for me to follow- you won't have to leave breadcrumbs!
Dora ... aka Patti

 

[Diogo92]

Ahhhhh Ponte de Lima. One of my favourites places in the Caminho Português. I'll start from there next year. Are you going to stay in Rubiães @PEI_Heather ?

I'm sorry to hear that you had to take penicillin. That sucks, I really know how it feels, I once done a treatment that I had to take one every 2 days. It was 40 doses, and at the end, my ass was black!

I hope you have a rest and better Caminho

Best Regards
Diogo

 

[PEI_Heather]

In Caldar De Rei (sp?)...the albergue was such that we chose to stay at the Hostel Lotus. Very nice and very clean. There is a lot of water here...LOTS of rain making walkng a clean event. Lots of puddle walk throughs!
Tony, I have been walking this Camino in Merrell sandals, which is how I got the splinter. All is well. No residual anything and the good doctor said there was no need to continue the penicillin.
But about the good doctor...very sad but we lost him to home the other day. Sebastian had to go back to Germany early; his father had had a (minor) heart attack two days before. We´re waiting to hear from him as to the condition of his dad. I wish I could remember the password for my email...he might have wrtten!!!
Two more days left until Santiago...tomorrow I hope to stay in Hebron. Santiago after that then off to the Atlantic to Finisterre and Muxia.
Laurie, I´ll send you a note with my updates when I get home...
Oh...one: Sheila and Sebastian got off track in the eucaluptus forest...there had been a fire there as well as clearing so there are NO markers at all. They walked until they got to the highway and made their way to Golgia (sp?) from there...
Tony...the names of the residentials are in Brierley´s book. Outside of that help, I wouldn´t use it. Laurie´s CSJ guide is far more accurate.
Cheers!

 

[Diogo92]

@PEI_Heather , what Albergue are you talking about? There is a lot of Albergues in Caldas, the best is the one near a cafe named 5 Jotas. The Albergue it's called D. Urraca.

I'm glad to see that you are almost in the end

Best Regards
Diogo

 

[Urban trekker1]

You go girl! Got the book. Read it over and over. Glean something every time I review it. Congats on completing your Camino. Due to time constrains I took the bus to Finisterre but walked out to the End of the World. Your posts have been full of insight and useful information. Thanks a lot. Looking forward to seeing your pictures. Buen Camino Urban T aka Tony

 

[PEI_Heather]

@PEI_Heather , what Albergue are you talking about? There is a lot of Albergues in Caldas, the best is the one near a cafe named 5 Jotas. The Albergue it's called D. Urraca.

I'm glad to see that you are almost in the end

Best Regards
Diogo

Hi Diogo!
The albergue was the municipal, Posada Dona Urraca. We walked in, then walked out and up to the Lotus Hotel/Hostel, which was lovely, clean and had a fantastic hot hot hot wáter shower!

 

[PEI_Heather]

You go girl! Got the book. Read it over and over. Glean something every time I review it. Congats on completing your Camino. Due to time constrains I took the bus to Finisterre but walked out to the End of the World. Your posts have been full of insight and useful information. Thanks a lot. Looking forward to seeing your pictures. Buen Camino Urban T aka Tony

Thanks Tony! This Camino has been fraught with injury and pain; not what I expected (but how can we ever expect anything, right?). We landed in Muxia today after three days of walking in the rain. Today was the most intense day for the wet stuff, but we did see a rainbow for a few minutes! I walked into Muxia in pouring driving rain with a wind that would knock your socks off, if not your hat!
Tomorrow will be to Finisterre but I am thinking that I may just take the bus and meet Sheila there. The first week of this Camino with its 30+ km/days plus a number of downhills have done a number on my legs. My knees are crying so a nice magnesium drink with a bit more stretching is called for tonight. I´m OK with taking the bus and getting to Finisterre early to look around.

We´re at the best albergue in town--Bela Muxia--so are warm and dry and welcomed. The owner gave us a big hug when she saw us--recognized us from last year!

Oh, the other good news (outside of staying at Bela Muxia) is that we Heard from Sebastian. His father is doing well and has gone home from the hospital! Very happy about that!

 

[Urban trekker1]

Congrats Heather on completing your Camino. Long or short, finishing your Camino is a major accomplishment. Happy to hear your friends father is OK. Glad to hear your OK. There is a restaurant across the street from the Finisterrre bus station, it has a big outdoor seating area overlooking the bay. Good food, reasonable prices, and great people. Clean restrooms! Tony

 

[PEI_Heather]

Sheila has left the building. I will be heading to Finisterre on the 10:30 bus to Cee then the bus from there to Finisterre. Hmmmm, what to do, what to do, what to do when I get there... Maybe I´ll find me a good massage therapist to work out my legs (priority). Have a café con leche (priority!!) Walk on the beach coming into Finisterre to find a whole whack of scallop shells! (I can do the same at home but it´s just not the same as finding them on the beach here...) Now, to just remember the albergue (private) that we stayed at last year. I can picture it but am not 100% sure of its location. Maybe 90% sure so that´s good...I´ll find it. There are only 8 bunks in the dorm room so that eliminates the chance of someone snoring (I am a very light sleeper...even ear plugs don´t quite do it!

 

[Albertinho]

Sheila has left the building. I will be heading to Finisterre on the 10:30 bus to Cee then the bus from there to Finisterre. Hmmmm, what to do, what to do, what to do when I get there... Maybe I´ll find me a good massage therapist to work out my legs (priority). Have a café con leche (priority!!) Walk on the beach coming into Finisterre to find a whole whack of scallop shells! (I can do the same at home but it´s just not the same as finding them on the beach here...) Now, to just remember the albergue (private) that we stayed at last year. I can picture it but am not 100% sure of its location. Maybe 90% sure so that´s good...I´ll find it. There are only 8 bunks in the dorm room so that eliminates the chance of someone snoring (I am a very light sleeper...even ear plugs don´t quite do it!

As did Elvis ! Can't remember he walked all away to Santiago and further on. But anyway he left the building for sure !

Heather. Congratulations for arriving in Santiago Enjoy your time in Fisterre and wish you a safe journey home. enjoyed reading your updates.

Best regards from this side of the world

Albertinho

 

[stevenjarvis]

Congratulations and thanks a million for sharing your experiences and advice.

 

[piogaw]

Hello heather,

Thank you for sharing your experience with us.

I hope to be walking the caminho portugues to santiago this coming february vis fatima.

God bless.

 

[Diogo92]

Hi Diogo!
The albergue was the municipal, Posada Dona Urraca. We walked in, then walked out and up to the Lotus Hotel/Hostel, which was lovely, clean and had a fantastic hot hot hot wáter shower!

There are no Municipal Albergues in Caldas de Reis, they are all private. I've slept in D. Urraca in May, and the only problem was that somebody forgot to close the windows, and since it was raining a lot, you could hear the rain and the river. Yaicks!

Best Regards
Diogo

 

[PEI_Heather]

No computer or internet since the last time I wrote but here's the update:
Home again, home again, jiggity jig.

Got to Santiago. Left Santiago. Walked three days (pouring rain; only one rainbow) to Muxia. My knee was unhappy so Sheila walked to Finisterre and I took the bus. Finisterre was delightful, especially the little beach I found to sit in the sun. We walked the next day 12 km to Cee, a place I don't think I would put on a list to return to...nothing outstanding about the place (to me). Back to Santiago by bus (or, as I called it, The Great Roller Coaster Ride...oh my roller coaster hating stomach!). Sheila left the next day; I headed to Porto for the next. Porto for a day then the next, I flew to Paris to hobnob with the be-scarved and beautiful. Seriously. The people of Paris are all gorgeous. Or maybe it's just that they all know how to dress divinely and just look gorgous!
There for a workshop and a couple of days as a bona fide tourist (in human clothes to boot; my pilgrim gear was sent home to make space in my pack for the 430 Valor chocolate bars I had purchased...!). On Monday I left Europe to fly back to Canada and arrived in Moncton, New Brunswick late late into the evening. Stayed in Moncton for the night and then the next day, Tuesday, my feet, pack and I landed on PEI courtesy of my cousin, who traveled the two hours to Moncton to pick me up.

My cats are happy. My clients are starting already to come in. My brain is still on jet lag. Must get some sleep... No more cafe con leche for this one!

I highly recommend the Camino Portugese; start from Lisbon. Do the eight days of 30-34 km walks. They'll put hair on your chest.

Cheers for now! Must go lay down now...zzzzzz!
Heather on the little red Island called PEI!

 

[Urban trekker1]

Welcome home Heather. Well Done. And yes the Parisians have a knack for looking well groomed all the time. No Walmart casual for them.

 

[PEI_Heather]

Welcome home Heather. Well Done. And yes the Parisians have a knack for looking well groomed all the time. No Walmart casual for them.

Haha! If they had WaldoMart, I'll bet they would still make the casual look fab, Tony!
Sent you a note!

 

[stevenjarvis]

No computer or internet since the last time I wrote but here's the update:
Home again, home again, jiggity jig.

Got to Santiago. Left Santiago. Walked three days (pouring rain; only one rainbow) to Muxia. My knee was unhappy so Sheila walked to Finisterre and I took the bus. Finisterre was delightful, especially the little beach I found to sit in the sun. We walked the next day 12 km to Cee, a place I don't think I would put on a list to return to...nothing outstanding about the place (to me). Back to Santiago by bus (or, as I called it, The Great Roller Coaster Ride...oh my roller coaster hating stomach!). Sheila left the next day; I headed to Porto for the next. Porto for a day then the next, I flew to Paris to hobnob with the be-scarved and beautiful. Seriously. The people of Paris are all gorgeous. Or maybe it's just that they all know how to dress divinely and just look gorgous!
There for a workshop and a couple of days as a bona fide tourist (in human clothes to boot; my pilgrim gear was sent home to make space in my pack for the 430 Valor chocolate bars I had purchased...!). On Monday I left Europe to fly back to Canada and arrived in Moncton, New Brunswick late late into the evening. Stayed in Moncton for the night and then the next day, Tuesday, my feet, pack and I landed on PEI courtesy of my cousin, who traveled the two hours to Moncton to pick me up.

My cats are happy. My clients are starting already to come in. My brain is still on jet lag. Must get some sleep... No more cafe con leche for this one!

I highly recommend the Camino Portugese; start from Lisbon. Do the eight days of 30-34 km walks. They'll put hair on your chest.

Cheers for now! Must go lay down now...zzzzzz!
Heather on the little red Island called PEI!

Thank you so much for sharing your preparation and experience, it's been fun and inspirational keeping up with you !

 

[PEI_Heather]

Aw, thanks Steven! I've had fun keeping whoever wants to read my postings posted!