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Looks like the old route is prolly a better option than the river route.
Thanks, Anamya for the update.Hi all
Finally I found some time to write after all the craziness of the last weeks. We just finished the Camino Lebaniego and got back home after the most intense 15 days or our lives (due to camino and non-camino reasons).
Many of you followed my husband situation and recovery here in the forum ( this thread ), and we are thankful for every positive wish. Every day of our walk, we would stop at the churches and make a prayer for everyone who wished us well and helped us on this journey.
In a nutshell, the Lebaniego was very, very tough, and had little to zero facilities at many points. The landscape, however, was mindblowingly beautiful. Given what we went through last week, it was very challenging physically and mentally, even though we were only doing 15-20km days. The trail was never flat, we were always going up and down.
Our stages:
Day 1- San Vicente de La Barquera to Cades (25km)
Day 2 – Cades to Cicera (16km)
Day 3 – Cicera to Potes (19km)
day 4 – Potes to the Monastery of Santo Toribio and back (6km)
Would I recommend this camino? It is quite tough. Probably not for someone who has not done other caminos or other hikes before. But definetly if you are more experienced and can deal with the loneliness and lack of infrastructure, because it is gorgeous. And our arrival in Santo Toribio was on of the most welcoming, beautiful experiences we have ever had, beyond any expectation.
And I was usually walking in front of my husband, because the trail was quite narrow in many places. Every time I looked back, I saw his smile and his expression of awe with magnificent landscapes as a background.
After all we went through, there wasn't a more beautiful view in the universe
That said, I will post some comments on what we did each day and my impressions on the trail.
I’ll walk Camino Lebaniego/Vadiniense starting Saturday , I know it’s a different and difficult one even I’m use to walk mountains and Camino Frances and also Camino de Invierno.Hi all
Finally I found some time to write after all the craziness of the last weeks. We just finished the Camino Lebaniego and got back home after the most intense 15 days or our lives (due to camino and non-camino reasons).
Many of you followed my husband situation and recovery here in the forum ( this thread ), and we are thankful for every positive wish. Every day of our walk, we would stop at the churches and make a prayer for everyone who wished us well and helped us on this journey.
In a nutshell, the Lebaniego was very, very tough, and had little to zero facilities at many points. The landscape, however, was mindblowingly beautiful. Given what we went through last week, it was very challenging physically and mentally, even though we were only doing 15-20km days. The trail was never flat, we were always going up and down.
Our stages:
Day 1- San Vicente de La Barquera to Cades (25km)
Day 2 – Cades to Cicera (16km)
Day 3 – Cicera to Potes (19km)
day 4 – Potes to the Monastery of Santo Toribio and back (6km)
Would I recommend this camino? It is quite tough. Probably not for someone who has not done other caminos or other hikes before. But definetly if you are more experienced and can deal with the loneliness and lack of infrastructure, because it is gorgeous. And our arrival in Santo Toribio was on of the most welcoming, beautiful experiences we have ever had, beyond any expectation.
And I was usually walking in front of my husband, because the trail was quite narrow in many places. Every time I looked back, I saw his smile and his expression of awe with magnificent landscapes as a background.
After all we went through, there wasn't a more beautiful view in the universe
That said, I will post some comments on what we did each day and my impressions on the trail.
I’m walking alone and I think I’m ready for that , but I don’t want to give it for granted because anything can happen on the way.Good luck, Pruden!
Last year I wanted to walk there, but after all didn't dare to walk alone.
Maybe next year.
Wonderful. Just wonderful.After all we went through, there wasn't a more beautiful view in the universe
...Hard to say as I have not walked the old road route. In hindsight, could have been a better option for us - the shorter route, maybe more infrastructure...Maybe just breaking the first day into 2 (SVdlBarquera-Serdio-Cades) already solves the problem.
I’ll walk Camino Lebaniego/Vadiniense starting Saturday ,
I walked this way with my sister in 2017 and it was fantastic. It was my sevens camino and for sure the one with the most beautiful nature. We walked the route at Rio Nansa and for us it was like Garden Eden. But every pilgrim has another background of sportiness and health situation. For us it was perfect.
Take care of enough water in your backpack, there are sometimes long distances without any chance to fill up the bottles, especially on the second part of the way.
...will soon post day 4, thanks everyone for the support
Clint is much better now...
This forum is filled with awesome people
Cantabria has its own website with Camino Lebaniego and Norte information. Not sure how current it is: https://www.caminolebaniego.com/camino-lebaniego/descripcion-de-etapas
These videos are also worth seeing
Yes I have some information and also I got the App Camino Lebaniego, but usually I go my way and don’t use much of technology , even I got lost doing Camino de Invierno 2 year ago.Wish you all the best, Pruden! Take care of the weather.. it might be dangerous in the mountains in bad weather.
There are some other forum topics about this Camino. Have you read them?
Also, while I am reading Anamya's report, I am following her and her husband on the map and videos.
Day 4 – Potes to Santo Toríbio de Liébana (+- 6km return)
We slept until later on our last day in the Camino – around 8h30 instead of 7h, as most days. For the first time, we had a 'typical camino breakfast': orange juice, bread, coffee in a bakery somewhere in the town. Temperatures dropped a lot and it was also raining.
Surprisingly, we were so happy with our Camino that the rain was not a problem at all. “Looks like the guy up there sent some rain so we would not carry our ponchos for nothing”, Clint said. Our packs were really light for this camino (5.5kg and 4.7kg, without water), and everything was used.
We wore our ultra-light ponchos (mine I got for free in a fun run in Australia) and started walking out of Potes. A quick stop at the Pilgrim centre to get the last stamps and on our way up to the Monastery!
The trail up there is quite simple. It goes beside the highway, first on a large sidewalk, then on a red painted especial lane. We were going up when a tourist bus passed by us, and we started laughing. “We really chose the hard way up, right?”, we joked, while walking in the rain. Then a second bus passed, prompting more laughter. A few more turns and a third bus passed, this time with people on the windows taking photos os us! We became touristic attractions! The wet pilgrims! We were in such good spirits and having such a good laugh that we did not feel at all the 3km of uphill towards the Monastery. And almost there, a fourth bus passed by us.
What was our surprise, however, when we got there and someone probably mentioned to the priests and volunteers that they saw pilgrims alog the road... they waited for us! Everyone on the buses, they stayed outside the Pilgrim Office and formed a corridor for us to enter. A volunteer, Ms Marga, welcomed us and almost could not believe we had come all the way from Australia. “Two days flying and 4 days walking to get here! Welcome, peregrinos! Welcome, everyone, to the Monastery of Santo Toribio!” And then everyone (us, the people in the buses, Marga) started clapping, hugging each other, rejoicing that we were all there.
View attachment 56920
The following moments were magical. We entered the Monastery and the priest (which I cannot recall the name and really apologize for it) invited all of us inside the large part of the church. He made a beautiful presentation about the history of the place and how the Lignum Crucis came to Spain. He then took it from its golden altar in a side chapel and brought it to the front, and asked people to line up if they wanted to approach it.
We lined up as well, but Marga called us on the side and said “if you are willing to stay for the Pilgrim mass, you can get closer”. We agreed – it was our intention to stay for the mass anyway. We then just observed people approaching the cross. The reactions varied a lot, from expressions of complete devotion to instagrammable excitement. Once that presentation was over, however, most people went away, and we admired the simple, but beautiful, architecture of the church.
View attachment 56921
We entered the side chapel and waited for the Pilgrim mass at midday. It was just us, a family with two teenage kids and probably more 6-7 people. The priest stopped by my side and asked if I wanted to make the reading during the Mass. In Castillian. With my heart beating like a dum, I went to the altar with him and opened the book to read the page he pointed.
We had not mentioned to them that Clint was bedridden before the trip. The passage he asked me to read? I kid you not. “I have no silver and gold, but what I do have I give to you. In the name of Jesus Christ of Nazareth, rise up and walk! Taking him by the right hand, Peter helped him up, and at once the man’s feet and ankles were strengthened.”
I just could not keep in my chest all the gratitude I was feeling – for everyone that helped Clint's recovery, the doctors, the friends, the support from family, forum, work... Gratitude for seeing my husband strong again, for being in Spain, for walking another Camino, for being so welcomed at the monastery, for having such an amazing life so full of opportunities. Omg, the list was immense.
We are not the most religious people, but we do have faith. That service was so moving, Clint was replying in English, myself in a broken Spanish, the people singing with the priest, I had never been to a mass that moved me so much. Then the priest once again opened the altar and got the cross out. And this time, we could approach it, touch it, say a little prayer if we wanted. So I did, and then turned to look at Clint behind me.
View attachment 56922
He did not ask the priest or the cross for health or protection or anything. He took an envelope from his backpack, and inside he had six photos – six of his Army friends who died serving in the Afeganisthan war. He started crying like I had never seen before, the tears rolling down his face and the sobs echoing accross the chapel. He put the photos near the cross, made a prayer, and the priest hold hands with him and said a few words. The entire chapel went silent, and then the family with the teenagers approached us and hugged Clint. “Thank you for coming here”, they told him. “And thank you for never forgetting your friends.”
At this point I was a mess of emotions. I have never, ever felt so much and so intensily as I did on that day in that monastery. There was so much love pouring out of people that 30 minutes before were complete strangers, I just wish I could give it back somehow. If any of those people is reading this, please, know that those moments were unforgettable.
By the end of the mass, Marga took us for a mini-tour around the open areas of the Monastery, and wrote our certificates (which they ask for a 1 euro donation to make... we were pleased to leave more than that). Then it was time to walk down the road. More hugs, smiles, and long lasting memories created.
So, the monastery is a very interesting building. The Lignum Crucis, undoubtfully an impressive item, kept inside a gorgeous gold and glass case. But the experience, wow, the experience was unbelievable. We walked down the road, back to Potes, in the rain and wind, but there was not a drop of pain or tiredess in our bodies.
We got back to Potes, looking for a place to have lunch. Holding hands. Smiling. Laughing. There is definetively a lot of love in the world, and along the last two weeks, we were blessed with the opportunity to feel a lot of it.
Thank you all. Sincerely,
Ana and Clint.
This is like watching “Footprints” again... gracias por compartir... we wish to have the same experience next year..
I really hope you have a similar experience, Kolbist! It was a tough trail, but so special!
like doing Cebreiro after Cebreiro (CF), followed by the Alto da Portela (CP).
For us the most difficult section was between Lebana and Cabanes. It was so steep and the sun was burning and in between I wished just to sit here in the middle of the small road and wait for the end. Fortunately not every wish is fulfilled immediately
But when we where on top, life came back into my bodybecause the view was incredibly beautiful. This ascent is worth every drop of sweat.
Guessing because I always called it La Bruja...followed by the Alto da Portela (CP)...
Interesting to read your comment about Cisternia Alberge. I knew that I was going to be arriving late to cisternia about 2 weeks back. I used the first telephone number from one of the lists. Spoke to a nice lady and in fact the phone was passed to a Spanish speaker who asked all the right questions..and then said no problem, just arrive and ring the number on the door and someone will come with key. I turned up at door to a sign OCCUPADO, and local people tut-tutting as I think they were disappointed for me. A local lady stopped and I explained that I had telephoned in advanced. We then rang another number and this lady spoke to Roberto. He said it was OCCUPIED and that was that. This lovely lady then pointed me up the the street again to a helpful family out enjoying the sun, and a senior from this family walked me to Hotel Moderno and I paid €25. I warned the people one day behind me on Olvidado, and then opted for camping .. but that was not a hut.. it was like army beds raised off the floor in an non completely enclosed rent and they FROZE (even though it was really hot during those days). Perhaps, Cisternia has some internal issues to work out. Who knows? The Cisternia people were friendly though.I walked this way with my sister in 2017 and it was fantastic. It was my sevens camino and for sure the one with the most beautiful nature. We walked the route at Rio Nansa and for us it was like Garden Eden. But every pilgrim has another background of sportiness and health situation. For us it was perfect.
If it fits into your plan, I have a BIG recommendation for the albuerges in Lafuente, Portilla de la Reina, Horcadas and Gradefes. Portilla de la Reina is more a hostal, but the others are "real" albergues. The (I think polish") hospitalero in Lafuente cooked a wonderful meal and we had an amazing evening with campfire in front of the house. The meal in Portila was to fall on your knees and in Horcadas is a complet house with a very good equipt kitchen (buy your stuff in Riano). The Albergue in Gradefes is at the very end of the village and is also full equipt. In general, all the Albergues on this way were good, except Cistierna. There is no doubt that this Albergue also has everything that is needed for accommodation, but the situation around the house was quite unpleasant. And it was right between the two grandiose hostels in Horcadas and Gradefes.
Take care of enough water in your backpack, there are sometimes long distances without any chance to fill up the bottles, especially on the second part of the way.
We met between the split of the Norte in Serdio and Leon only a few pilgrims, the last one in Potes, and we enjoyed it very much to have so much time together as siblings, first time since our childhood..
It will be a special experience.
Buen Camino
Hey, Anamya, I just came across your description of this walk. It sound lovely, albeit difficult, and if it weren't for COVID....Hi all
Finally I found some time to write after all the craziness of the last weeks. We just finished the Camino Lebaniego and got back home after the most intense 15 days or our lives (due to camino and non-camino reasons).
Many of you followed my husband situation and recovery here in the forum ( this thread ), and we are thankful for every positive wish. Every day of our walk, we would stop at the churches and make a prayer for everyone who wished us well and helped us on this journey.
In a nutshell, the Lebaniego was very, very tough, and had little to zero facilities at many points. The landscape, however, was mindblowingly beautiful. Given what we went through last week, it was very challenging physically and mentally, even though we were only doing 15-20km days. The trail was never flat, we were always going up and down.
Our stages:
Day 1- San Vicente de La Barquera to Cades (25km)
Day 2 – Cades to Cicera (16km)
Day 3 – Cicera to Potes (19km)
day 4 – Potes to the Monastery of Santo Toribio and back (6km)
Would I recommend this camino? It is quite tough. Probably not for someone who has not done other caminos or other hikes before. But definetly if you are more experienced and can deal with the loneliness and lack of infrastructure, because it is gorgeous. And our arrival in Santo Toribio was on of the most welcoming, beautiful experiences we have ever had, beyond any expectation.
And I was usually walking in front of my husband, because the trail was quite narrow in many places. Every time I looked back, I saw his smile and his expression of awe with magnificent landscapes as a background.
After all we went through, there wasn't a more beautiful view in the universe
That said, I will post some comments on what we did each day and my impressions on the trail.
In any case I am curious about the ST monastery. Do pilgrims stay there? About how much do they charge? Do they allow women to stay?
When you say facilities are sparse, do you mean you brought tent and sleeping bag, camp stove, etc?
Many thanks, Anamya! I hope the world opens up again for my pilgrimage plans. Walking vicariously through the forum really helps me!Hi Mycroft!
I highly recommend this walk. Maybe not for those pursuing a first camino, but for more seasoned walkers, sure.
Pilgrims do not stay in the Monastery, they have to walk back to Potes for a place to sleep, or keep walking towards Arenos and Fuente De (https://www.gronze.com/etapa/potes/fuente). I recommend arriving at opening (10am) for a visit and then staying for the Mass at noon.
In Potes there are albergues and affordable hotels (and probably fancy ones as well).
I did not bring a tent or a camp stove, and actually wouldn´t feel safe, terrain-wise and weather-wise, to camp in that region. What we did was to study the maps well to always evaluate how much we would have to walk to get to the next food/water/bed location. We always carried bread, salami and water with us, and that was our lunch in some occasions.
We normally don´t do it, but for this walk we booked our accommodation in advance so we would risk being without a bed in the mountains. There are not many options, so Munorrodero, Cades, Lafuente, Cicera, Cabanes e Potes are the common pics.
I hope that helps and you can eventually live this experience. It was amazing
I thought there's an albergue right next to the Monastery of Santo Toribio which is managed/owned by the monastery
Unfortunately, it is closed. At least that was my experience in 2011, and is also the current situation according to Gronze.
When I walked, we were allowed to spend two nights in the Potes albergue, which I liked a lot even though it is in the old jail! This gave everyone time to go out to visit the monastery and come back on the day after arrival in Potes.
@Anamya - Hi, I thought there's an albergue right next to the Monastery of Santo Toribio which is managed/owned by the monastery. In fact, in my research you can actually call for reservation. Was it closed when you got there in your camino?
Oh my gosh, how beautiful and moving to read of your experience at the monasteryDay 4 – Potes to Santo Toríbio de Liébana (+- 6km return)
We slept until later on our last day in the Camino – around 8h30 instead of 7h, as most days. For the first time, we had a 'typical camino breakfast': orange juice, bread, coffee in a bakery somewhere in the town. Temperatures dropped a lot and it was also raining.
Surprisingly, we were so happy with our Camino that the rain was not a problem at all. “Looks like the guy up there sent some rain so we would not carry our ponchos for nothing”, Clint said. Our packs were really light for this camino (5.5kg and 4.7kg, without water), and everything was used.
We wore our ultra-light ponchos (mine I got for free in a fun run in Australia) and started walking out of Potes. A quick stop at the Pilgrim centre to get the last stamps and on our way up to the Monastery!
The trail up there is quite simple. It goes beside the highway, first on a large sidewalk, then on a red painted especial lane. We were going up when a tourist bus passed by us, and we started laughing. “We really chose the hard way up, right?”, we joked, while walking in the rain. Then a second bus passed, prompting more laughter. A few more turns and a third bus passed, this time with people on the windows taking photos of us! We became touristic attractions! The wet pilgrims! We were in such good spirits and having such a good laugh that we did not feel at all the 3km of uphill towards the Monastery. And almost there, a fourth bus passed by us.
What was our surprise, however, when we got there and someone probably mentioned to the priests and volunteers that they saw pilgrims alog the road... they waited for us! Everyone on the buses, they stayed outside the Pilgrim Office and formed a corridor for us to enter. A volunteer, Ms Marga, welcomed us and almost could not believe we had come all the way from Australia. “Two days flying and 4 days walking to get here! Welcome, peregrinos! Welcome, everyone, to the Monastery of Santo Toribio!” And then everyone (us, the people in the buses, Marga) started clapping, hugging each other, rejoicing that we were all there.
View attachment 56920
The following moments were magical. We entered the Monastery and the priest (which I cannot recall the name and really apologize for it) invited all of us inside the large part of the church. He made a beautiful presentation about the history of the place and how the Lignum Crucis came to Spain. He then took it from its golden altar in a side chapel and brought it to the front, and asked people to line up if they wanted to approach it.
We lined up as well, but Marga called us on the side and said “if you are willing to stay for the Pilgrim mass, you can get closer”. We agreed – it was our intention to stay for the mass anyway. We then just observed people approaching the cross. The reactions varied a lot, from expressions of complete devotion to instagrammable excitement. Once that presentation was over, however, most people went away, and we admired the simple, but beautiful, architecture of the church.
View attachment 56921
We entered the side chapel and waited for the Pilgrim mass at midday. It was just us, a family with two teenage kids and probably more 6-7 people. The priest stopped by my side and asked if I wanted to make the reading during the Mass. In Castillian. With my heart beating like a drum, I went to the altar with him and opened the book to read the page he pointed.
We had not mentioned to them that Clint was bedridden before the trip. The passage he asked me to read? I kid you not. “I have no silver and gold, but what I do have I give to you. In the name of Jesus Christ of Nazareth, rise up and walk! Taking him by the right hand, Peter helped him up, and at once the man’s feet and ankles were strengthened.”
I just could not keep in my chest all the gratitude I was feeling – for everyone that helped Clint's recovery, the doctors, the friends, the support from family, forum, work... Gratitude for seeing my husband strong again, for being in Spain, for walking another Camino, for being so welcomed at the monastery, for having such an amazing life so full of opportunities. Omg, the list was immense.
We are not the most religious people, but we do have faith. That service was so moving, Clint was replying in English, myself in a broken Spanish, the people singing with the priest, I had never been to a mass that moved me so much. Then the priest once again opened the altar and got the cross out. And this time, we could approach it, touch it, say a little prayer if we wanted. So I did, and then turned to look at Clint behind me.
View attachment 56922
He did not ask the priest or the cross for health or protection or anything. He took an envelope from his backpack, and inside he had six photos – six of his Army friends who died serving in the Afeganisthan war. He started crying like I had never seen before, the tears rolling down his face and the sobs echoing accross the chapel. He put the photos near the cross, made a prayer, and the priest hold hands with him and said a few words. The entire chapel went silent, and then the family with the teenagers approached us and hugged Clint. “Thank you for coming here”, they told him. “And thank you for never forgetting your friends.”
At this point I was a mess of emotions. I have never, ever felt so much and so intensily as I did on that day in that monastery. There was so much love pouring out of people that 30 minutes before were complete strangers, I just wish I could give it back somehow. If any of those people is reading this, please, know that those moments were unforgettable.
By the end of the mass, Marga took us for a mini-tour around the open areas of the Monastery, and wrote our certificates (which they ask for a 1 euro donation to make... we were pleased to leave more than that). Then it was time to walk down the road. More hugs, smiles, and long lasting memories created.
So, the monastery is a very interesting building. The Lignum Crucis, undoubtfully an impressive item, kept inside a gorgeous gold and glass case. But the experience, wow, the experience was unbelievable. We walked down the road, back to Potes, in the rain and wind, but there was not a drop of pain or tiredess in our bodies.
We got back to Potes, looking for a place to have lunch. Holding hands. Smiling. Laughing. There is definetively a lot of love in the world, and along the last two weeks, we were blessed with the opportunity to feel a lot of it.
Thank you all. Sincerely,
Ana and Clint.
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