LIVE from the Camino Patrick’s Pilgrimage (VF)

[J.Patrick]

Arrived in Sarzana today, after taking the train from Pisa. It was pleasant, a little balmy. I was able to get my first timbro at the Cathedral of our Lady of the, Assumption. The people in town were really helpful in finding the priest who, with very good will, interrupted his afternoon to walk me to the sacristy and stamp my credenziale. Tomorrow is supposed to be 30 K. Here’s hoping the feet hold up (and the rest of me).

 

[Samos]

Hi! Enjoy your walk. The beautiful landscapes here reward you for your climbing efforts!

We have been on the Via Francigena now for a month but are now closer to Bolsena. Seems like Rome is sneaking up on us

 

[SusanSmyth]

I’ll restart next June from Brienne-le-Château

 

[Rex]

Buon Cammino!
Just finished the Martigny to Lucca part of the VF on 19 Sept. Trail conditions were good (mostly) and there were a lot more pilgrims than I met last year walking from Canterbury to Martigny. Tourists were a bit of a problem (too many of them) in some the more popular towns (Vercelli, Pavia, Lucca). Otherwise, a wonderful but physically demanding route.

 

[J.Patrick]

Thank you Samos, and you, Rex. The weather has been good, and yes, physically demanding!

 

[J.Patrick]

It has been absolutely beautiful, and for this overweight guy, taxing. Today’s walk over the hills between Camaiore and Lucca had one beautiful vista after another, one last view of the sea, and a beautiful walk towards the end on the levee on the way into Luca. Now, on to explore Lucca for a day!

 

[Samos]

Beautiful photos! I hope you have an amazing walk today.

 

[J.Patrick]

I met up with my friend, Jim, and spent a lovely day in Lucca after putting in 3 straight days with over 40,000 steps, my legs were happy for the stop, and the walled town is a terrific place to pause. So much to see.

The walk out of Lucca is a long walk through a pleasant but dull suburb, and a short walk through an intense, truck heavy industrial zone. The guidebook suggested considering taking the train through this segment. I’m glad I didn’t. It’s always interesting to me to see how people live and work. And the reward was the briefest walk through a small woods.

Had a great amaro spritz and assortment of snacks at La Docanda in Altopascio.

 

[Mareng]

Like your description of Lucca and your walk to Altopascio. Beautiful photos. Can’t wait to April 2 when I will start my walk from Lucca…. Will be following your posts.

 

[J.Patrick]

Like your description of Lucca and your walk to Altopascio. Beautiful photos. Can’t wait to April 2 when I will start my walk from Lucca…. Will be following your posts.

So far I’ve had a wonderful pilgrimage. I wish you the best in April!

 

[J.Patrick]

What a great day! 19 km / 20 miles. I don’t want to push my friend Jim too hard at 70, and my right knee appreciated the break.

If yesterday was mostly suburbs, today was largely a walk in a forest, with a couple miles at the end on a river wall.

We passed over a bridge built by Cosimo di Medici, and trod on Medieval cobblestones laid down for ancient pilgrims making their way to Rome. We decided we didn’t need to walk on cobbles again except to do penance for Jim’s many sins (kidding!).

And then we ate! Oh how we ate—in a very joyous Italian way, starting with a tagliere of treats!

 

[J.Patrick]

San Miniato — Oct 5

At the request of the moderators I will be changing my posting method, placing them all in this chain, with the name change “Patrick’s pilgrimage (VF).” I hope you find that convenient.

We walked extra a long distance yesterday, so that, after walking in the morning, we could spend half a day in San Miniato. It’s our first Tuscan hill-top town. We arrived by noon and were able to visit the cathedral and other churches, including San Francesco, founded or established (depending on which guide you read) by St. Francis, himself,

For the first time in either of our lives we tried truffles, mine on risotto. Its a very pleasant taste, which we both enjoyed while wondering if it was worth the cost.

Next to the cathedral was an art museum of spectacular paintings that had been assembled from churches in the diocese that couldn’t restore or maintain them —most were quite beautiful and a few were positively ancient

 

[peregrina2000]

We really appreciate having live threads posted as one continuous travelogue thread, because it creates such a wonderful resource when the pilgrim is done, so thanks a lot, @J.Patrick.

This seems to be a route that is really growing in popularity. It’s hard to see these posts and not be moved to think about abandoning the Iberian peninsula for a while.

Your pictures are beautiful!

 

[J.Patrick]

Gambasse Terme — Oct 6

Today Jim, who walks more slowly than I, left at 6:30, and I left 50 minutes later, giving us both some quiet time for thought. I caught up to him 4 hours later on our 16 mile , 6 hour walk.

We’ve reached classic Tuscany. Rolling Hills, Vineyards, olive orchards and small copes of pines. The rows of cedar are just as you would hope them to be. One can hear roosters crowing and dogs barking off in the mist.

The hay has been cut, and some of the fields are already plowed. There are just the earliest signs that autumn is here. There’s one bush that has leaves that are turning brown, not so much red or yellow.

Today was agricultural beauty.

We were told that between Luca and Sienna there might be extra pilgrims on the road, only going that one week’s walk. It’s a beautiful stretch, I know why they would do it.

There are five Pilgrims just ahead of me and two way off in the distance, and one behind me. I’m the slow one. They’re all young and thin.

Every now, and then, someone, usually on a bicycle, but occasionally walking by, will say “buon Camino.” the people with whom we walk, usually do not. If we greet them, they respond, but it doesn’t seem to be the custom here.

We spent the afternoon sitting in a town square with little children and adults in the shade of the trees. The older children came later, perhaps after homework was done.

We both had bacalao for dinner, with a livornese sauce..,a perfect day.

 

[peregrina2000]

Vineyards, olive orchards and small copes of pines. The rows of cedar are just as you would hope them to be.

Love that description — it’s those cedars that put the Tuscan stamp on the terrain. Thanks for another set of tempting pictures.

Wondering what the accommodations are like, and whether you have to book much in advance (written by someone who hears only about mad bed rushes on the Camino Francés).

 

[J.Patrick]

Jim and I are kind of nervous travelers and book days out. Steve (fellow pilgrim) had only one couple for companions in the large Franciscan convent in San Miniato two nights ago. Olivia struggled to find a place in Camaiore last Saturday. So the record is mixed. We notice a lot of pilgrims after Lucca. Many times what I found north of there. The journey between Lucca and Sienna has (what I think is) a deserved reputation for beauty, and many people come just for this stretch. There are more places recognizing, supporting or try to draw revenue from pilgrims here. It is also pretty expensive unless you want to eat pizza every night. Conversely, everything I’ve eaten has been DELICIOUS.

 

[duncanwhyte]

I finished on the 3rd Oct, from Lucca to Rome. As it's end of the season some of the hostels are closing, or of limited and sporadic availability. One morning we were awoken by the cleaner bearing a tray of cake and saying she would make coffee, at 6 am. In order to close the hostel.

Another day, whilst there was concern amongst most of the walkers about getting a bed, I found I was the only one in a hostel with 20 beds.

So it's a bit random how it works out.

However I found that by calling a day ahead the Italians were more relaxed and accommodating. They seemed more agitated when people called on route on the day. So if you prepare, they can too.

 

[J.Patrick]

San Gimignano — Oct 7

Just after we started walking we encountered a winery that was offering wine tasting to pilgrims walking the unpaved path. It seemed early, but we shared a single glass rather than do a full tasting. Really good.

A beautiful walk, highlighting grape vineyards, on mostly unpaved roads — a real pleasure to walk about 13 km.

Our pattern is to have breakfast and a late lunch, when we can, and maybe an aperitif in the evening. Lunch today was in our hotel with an utterly amazing view. I had lampredotto, a beautifully cooked, tender tripe variation. I’m trying everything.

For great weather, we give you thanks, oh Lord. Amen

San Giminiano is an amazing small town, beautifully preserved from Medieval times. It was crawling with tourists. We went Mass at the beautiful cathedral.

 

[peregrina2000]

I had lampredotto, a beautifully cooked, tender tripe variation. I’m trying everything.

I admire that attitude and wish I could be just like you. I have been at the table in Spain several times when callos were served and never got further than putting a tiny bit in my mouth. The texture was a dealbreaker. And “crawling” is a good descriptor!

Beautiful pictures once again, hoping the weather holds for you. I’m reading several live blogs these days and it seems like all Mediterranean Europe is experiencing warm or hot temps.

 

[J.Patrick]

Colle Val D’ Elsa — Oct 8

The day started off cool and misty. Jim set off 30 minutes ahead of me. He walks a little slower, and this gives him a chance to walk at his own pace and not feel like he’s holding me back. If I catch up to him somewhere down the road we walk the last leg together. It gives us some silence and then some lovely conversations. It’s become a lovely pattern to our day.

There are two possible routes today. Both are supposed to be beautiful. One requires a walk of 31 km, to Monteriggione , and includes a lovely walk in the wild. Jim and I decided we weren’t doing anything over 30 km, so we chose to break this route up by using the alternate route to Colle Di Val D’Elsa , at 13 km. It gives us a chance to see the old town there and boy was it worth it. The entire route has been beautifully way marked, including the point where the two options diverge from one another. There’s no need to worry. When you get there, it will be obvious.

I can’t speak about the route to Monteriggione, but the one to Colle di Val Elsa was beautifully enough !

According to the weather, prognosticators, somewhere in October, it’s supposed to get cool enough in the evenings that you need a jacket. It hasn’t happened so far. The morning of all been cool, and the evenings have been warm enough. In the mid afternoon and late afternoon it heads up into the low 80s. All in all, very pleasant.

Today, we forwarded two little brooks, jumping from stone to stone for the very first time.

For the last several mornings, there have been gunshots off in the distance. I remember reading somewhere that October was boar hunting season.

On my journey, there was a beautiful little rest off about halfway. People are so very kind, aren’t they?

 

[J.Patrick]

Monteriggione — Oct 10

This morning began in a dense fog. We were told that the warm days can create foggy morning conditions.

It was the perfect beginning, though, for our trail choice leaving the town. One option is shorter, but urban street walking. The other, apparently newer choice, not included in our guidebook, but suggested by the Sloways app, is to follow the Elsa river path. We ran out of adjectives to describe how beautiful it was along the Elsa. If it has rained recently, though, you won’t be able to get through, as you have to hop from rock to rock several times along the way.

A very pleasant walk through gradually climbing farmland and deep forest led us, to the Castle Pietraio, now serving as a hotel, but deserving of the briefest peak. Then, just before Monteriggione, we came to the well restored abbey, Abbadia in Isola (“Abbey on the Island”). The swamp that used to surround it is gone, but the abbey is still there (no monks) and still welcoming pilgrims.

At the end of the day we had a stiff uphill climb to Monteriggioni, a marvelous preserved castle but very small. It doesn’t take any more than an hour, and perhaps less to see the entire charming place.

 

[Bob from L.A. !]

Soooo many great photos. (Thanks). Soooo many good memories!

 

[J.Patrick]

Siena — Oct 10

Through a series of unexpected circumstances, we left this morning without breakfast. And nothing was open in Monteriggione. And then, wouldn’t you know it, we came upon this hidden refuge by Castle Chocciola. Some lovely people offered breakfast, at the side of the Camino, including hard, boiled eggs, sweet rolls, sandwiches, cappuccinos, tea in a donation setting. And all of our talk about fasting went right out the window. It was lovely.

Most of the morning we spent in a long forest walk. The trail was rocky and rough, and appeared, for a while, to be the remains of an old cobble stone road.

There was beautiful red earth on the plowed fields. It was a really lovely, 20 km day, though the ascents and descents left us tired, and the afternoons have been warm.

And then there is Siena! We had drinks and dinner in il Campo, where the Palio race is run! And last summer’s winners (the goose team?) came in a long procession of drummers and flag wavers. Totally fun and quasi-Medieval.

Tomorrow we will stay in Siena and rest our weary selves.

 

[J.Patrick]

Siena, day 2 —Oct 12

Today was an absolutely fabulous rest day. If you’re trying to determine where to spen one where there’s lot to do, then this is it.

We spent three hours at the Cathedral, its museum, its undercroft, and at the baptistery.

We took in the Medici fort, but found it huge and empty.

We visited several other churches, all heavily decorated, but for me, the most notable was the huge, yet simple, church of Saint Dominic that was dedicated to Saint Catherine of Siena. She was an incredibly impressive woman: intelligent, dedicated to the care of the sick and the poor, and who had the courage to tell the pope in Avignon France, that he needed to move back to his diocese in Rome. He ended up doing it.

 

[J.Patrick]

Buonconvento —Oct 12

This morning we left Siena just as all the schoolchildren of every age were busily headed off to school. A fairly dense fog kept us from seeing the countryside in the morning. We were fairly quickly out of the city and in the countryside, but still walking, primarily on asphalt .

The sun didn’t come out until 11. We found ourselves in rolling hills of what I suspect is harvested grain. The Earth color has changed from red to an earthy tannish, grayish brown. After, the morning’s three hours of asphalt walking, we shifted to primarily nicely graded roads, rolling through the hills along the ridgeline with beautiful views in every direction. You’ll want to do this.

Today, we’ve only met two pilgrims, a man from London and an Italian, living in Great Britain, a charming fellow. So the Luca to Siena pilgrim rush is over. I was told by Claudia, from Germany, that particular stretch is so popular because it can be done in one week, and there is good train, and plane access to both ends. I would add that it was particularly beautiful. I had spent two or three hours walking with and chatting with her on the way into sienna. She has gone back home already. And that is the way of pilgrimage. People pass in and out of your life. You meet them and have a good time learning about each other. You take a rest day or they do, and you’re out of sequence with one another. You meet up again down the road and it’s so pleasant to find each other again. Or they go home, because they’ve done all of the stages they intend to do, and goodbyes are bittersweet.

The path flattens out on its way into Ponte d’Arbia. There are train tracks to the left, but much of the time they are nicely hidden by bushes. Plowed fields and green fields head off to the right, with a bit of forest beyond that, really very nice!

The last push into Buonconvento is hard. It’s so good to arrive and shower, and head out for a cold beer!

 

[J.Patrick]

San Quirico D’Orcia — Oct 13

Another sweet, cool, misty morning and we were up and on our way into the hills leading up to San Quirico D’Orcia. Misty clouds hugged the lower valleys, while the sun broke through higher up.

Just a few kilometers on our way up in the hills, one of the wineries, Caparzo, offered a pilgrim meal for eight euros. It was quite a bargain but having had breakfast recently and it only been 10 AM I didn’t take them up on the glass of wine and sandwich.

The uphills were very bracing, but the views were as good as any other day on this trip. The morning walk was briefly on a trail, skirting the city, which became a beautiful graded gravel road for a couple of hours.

At 10:30, the temperature was 67. This is a little cooler than what has been in the past. Perhaps the temperatures are changing?

We skirted Montalcino off on our right side. I have no idea what direction is north or south. I’ve heard of the Brunello Montalcino wines before. It was wonderful to walk through its vineyards.

We passed through Torrenieri, leaving the country, gravel roads behind and taking up on asphalt. The road was to Rome, but the traffic wasn’t at all heavy.

The last bit up into the utterly charming walled town of San Quirico D’Orcia was a grueling uphill. But the town, with its three ancient churches, one with a beautiful Della Robbia Madonna, is a gem.

 

[J.Patrick]

Agriturismo Passalacqua — Oct 14

We had a short, 9 or 10 mile day (15/16 km?), so we got up late (6:30), and had a late breakfast (7:30)—really nice! . For the first time in a week, the sun was up from the beginning, without low,-lying fog.

We had made the decision before we planned the trip not to do any 20 mile days, anything over 30 km. So we’re staying somewhere between the nine and 10 mile mark at an agriturismo, basically a B&B at a working farm. Agriturismo Passalacqua is right on the. Francigena, and provides us a furnished one bedroom apartment. These are going to be the nicest accommodations of our month!

The day was filled with ups and downs, as we clambered over the hills. On the first rise, we came to the amazingly well preserved, Medieval Vigano Alto, where the small chapel was open, clean, and beautifully simple. Gregorian Chant was playing. It might have been the most prayerful environment yet, and the only church of the day.

Along the way, they were three places to obtain water, which were very timely, and seem to have been provided by the local farmers, who also placed a picnic bench and seats at one of them. People can be so gracious and kind!

The almost 6000 feet Mt. Amiata, an extinct volcano, hovered over our walk today as we made the steep climb to Castiglione D’Orcia — skirting both the tower and the town. A long downhill, through harvested wheatfields, already graded for next year‘s crop, brought us to our night’s rest.

You’re tired of hearing it, I’m sure sure, but the views were amazing and the chat with Jim was soul satisfying.

We’ve lugged a dinner with us, only to find out that they would have cooked it for us.

 

[Kirkie]

Agriturismo Passalacqua — Oct 14

We had a short, 9 or 10 mile day (15/16 km?), so we got up late (6:30), and had a late breakfast (7:30)—really nice! . For the first time in a week, the sun was up from the beginning, without low,-lying fog.

We had made the decision before we planned the trip not to do any 20 mile days, anything over 30 km. So we’re staying somewhere between the nine and 10 mile mark at an agriturismo, basically a B&B at a working farm. Agriturismo Passalacqua is right on the. Francigena, and provides us a furnished one bedroom apartment. These are going to be the nicest accommodations of our month!

The day was filled with ups and downs, as we clambered over the hills. On the first rise, we came to the amazingly well preserved, Medieval Vigano Alto, where the small chapel was open, clean, and beautifully simple. Gregorian Chant was playing. It might have been the most prayerful environment yet, and the only church of the day.

Along the way, they were three places to obtain water, which were very timely, and seem to have been provided by the local farmers, who also placed a picnic bench and seats at one of them. People can be so gracious and kind!

The almost 6000 feet Mt. Amiata, an extinct volcano, hovered over our walk today as we made the steep climb to Castiglione D’Orcia — skirting both the tower and the town. A long downhill, through harvested wheatfields, already graded for next year‘s crop, brought us to our night’s rest.

You’re tired of hearing it, I’m sure sure, but the views were amazing and the chat with Jim was soul satisfying.

We’ve lugged a dinner with us, only to find out that they would have cooked it for us.

I have just paid attention to your camino. Thank you very much. I know it is outside my list, but that does not diminish the chance to rejoice in your camino. I will stay tuned in! However it is in Italian, stay safe, may the wind be always at your back!

 

[J.Patrick]

Radicofani — Oct 15

By far away, our stop at the Passalacqua, Agriturismo was the best accommodations of our trip, including breakfast, alfresco, with deer off in the distance.

Walking in autumn, the hills and their fields have all been harvested, and the earth shows through. I’ve got to believe that in the spring, when the wheat is growing, it must be a completely different beauty— the cycle of life.

Yesterday, Jim came down with a small blister on the outside of his heel. Amputations were held forthwith, and all is well. We hope.

There were a couple of places where we passed through dry stream beds, that I imagine in rainy season might be difficult. Just something to be aware of if traveling through rain time.

The 1st mile and a half, or so, from the agriturismo, or Gallina, for those who stay there, were flat, on cobbled roads, but then an almost endless uphill starts, taking you all the way up to Radicofani, sometimes on asphalt, sometimes on paths.

I had the very sweet pleasure of walking with a very friendly Italian, Giovani, married to a British woman, living part time in both countries. It’s just so very rich too be able to have international conversations, to meet completely different sets of expectations and observations. We ended up walking very quickly into Radicofani, arriving much too soon for our rooms to be available at 2 pm. I sat in a square and watched as people came out of Mass, chatted with friends and had an apéritif in the piazza.

Jim takes a more meditative, spaced, walk, and came along in time for well-deserved beer, after a long, uphill slog, and a stroll through this small, but charming, town.

 

[TheBigT]

Thanks for your observations, inspiring and enlightening. I am planning this walk for the future and all the tips are v v interesting.

 

[J.Patrick]

Ponte a Rigo— Oct 16

Jim and I got our quick breakfast at a bar, which sounds very odd, but is a quite normal way Italians get their morning croissant and espresso,

There are two routes from Radicofani to Aquapendente. The traditional shorter, relatively flat route is 25 km, but has a long walk on the verge of a highway. The recommended but longer variant is 30 km, with a lot of ups and downs.

We’ve decided to do the longer one but we’re dividing it into two days. So, we took our shortest walk of the trip today, just short of Ponte a Rigo, where we stayed at the Francigena B&B. They only provide breakfast, but very kindly drove into the nearest roadside catering, where we picked up sandwiches for lunch and dinner to keep body and soul united.

It was lovely to take an absolutely leisurely two hour and some odd minutes largely downhill walk, with a stop at a pilgrimage restaurant area. It is our last full day in Tuscany. For the rest of the day we ate a little, made tea, and read, enjoying the garden.

We keep needing pinching ourselves. We’re in Italy!

 

[J.Patrick]

Acquapendente — Oct 17
Today started nice and chilly, about 50° which is nippy until after you get started and then it’s really pleasant. The first hour and a half or so of walking was on asphalt on a country road with occasional cars zipping by, as we walked past harvested grain fields.

I encountered, for the first time today, three people from France, one of whom had walked from Lausanne Switzerland.

The farmers were out, grading their fields, preparing them for next year’s harvest, with clouds of dust following them. Today had a kind of Kansas feel to it, a little mini Meseta. It’s just the kind of place for good interior inspection. Yesterday Jim and I had a wonderful discussion about growing older. I’m 64 and he’s 70. Our bodies are telling us we are no longer even middle-aged. And that both of us are probably in our last quarter or fifth of life. It’s sobering, but we both accept it. And, of course, on just such a day, as we are sitting there, eating lunch a group of young men, probably in the early 20s, go jauntily by. Neither of us looked that fresh at the end of our days. But, we’re all on this adventure together. We choose to face the future with courage, hope and happiness. There are still adventures to be had, and meaningful work for us to apply ourselves.

And then we were back in the hills, to which we have become so accustomed,

When, many days ago, I passed from Liguria to Tuscany, there were no signs. I only knew I had crossed that line because the book told me so. . But Lazio rolled out a little welcome sign for us. A new province, perhaps new food? New things ahead.

The middle of the morning had lots of graded gravel roadway, but once passing into Lazio, it has become primarily asphalt again.

The alternate route took us through the little town of Proceno. There was not one gelateria, but I’m not bitter. The way out of town had a harrowing descent, and a beautiful walk in the woods, the path led with yellow, autumn leaves, and a few glimpses of a brook running alongside.

 

[J.Patrick]

Acquapendente, day 2 — Oct 18

Today was curiously different. In the the interest of our aging bodies, today has been a rest day…and it has rained pretty steadily, and should again tomorrow, but we’re ready. Having been rained on repeatedly on the Northern Camino, I have the drill down and have conspired with Jim to do the same.

I might not recommend Acquapendente for a rest stop. There is a combined cathedral/civil museum, but it doesn’t open except Fri-Sun. There was a prisoner of war camp here, but none of my research skills or questions of people have suggested where.

The highlight of our morning was our visits to St. Augustine church, which was nice, and has a pilgrim hostel, and the Cathedral with some impressive modern art and a beautiful crypt shrine for stones upon which Christ’s blood was supposed to have fallen. As an academic, I tend to doubt the veracity of such claims, but as a person of faith, I found this a lovely place to remember His sacrifice. We touched the stone with reverence.

Jim is now onto his second nap. It’s a perfectly lovely day.

 

[Mareng]

I really enjoy reading your post, looking forward to read the next every day. You describe the route so well I wish I were there. I especially appreciate your reflections on life on the camino, meeting people, leaving people and your thoughts on beeing an older person. I am a female solowalker turning 77, planning to continue walking once a year as long as my body permits.
How was the route from Ponte a Riego in terms of effort, many ups and downs, difficult surface?
Sorry for your rainy days, but you seem so have the spirit to tackle that.

 

[J.Patrick]

Thanks Mareng! The route was fairly easy until the last 1/4 of the route, and then there were some steep up and downhills.

 

[J.Patrick]

Bolsena — Oct 20

This morning there was a chance of rain through about 10 AM. So we waterproof everything and headed out. The terrain seems much flatter than what we’ve walked through before.

Throughout the morning we walked through harvested grain fields. It was plain, so a good time to be meditative.

After St. Lorenzo Novo, we had a lovely walk in the forest, making our way down to the lake, exchanging forest for meadow. It was very different, and lovely, with the lake off in the distance, shimmering between the clouded shade and the sun breaking through.

Most of today was on graded gravel road, with just a few exceptions, and the uphills, though sometimes steep, were relatively short.

We walked down to the lake where intense winds created waves along the shore, reminding me of the Pacific coast and home.

I am reminded that I only have a quarter of the pilgrimage left!

 

[J.Patrick]

Montefiascone — Oct 20

This morning, first thing, we visited the beautiful Basilica of Santa Christina. It wasn’t as decorated as many Italian churches were, and I think I preferred it for that. It is the burial site of Saint Christina, and also the site of the miracle were in a doubting priest, while saying mass, noted that blood was flowing from the host, he was consecrating. it was after this miracle that the pope initiated the feast of Corpus Christi, the feast of the body and blood of Christ.

Repeatedly today, we saw people out, harvesting olives, by spreading large, loose tarps, shaking the trees, and then gathering up the olives.

Throughout the day, they were very strong gusts of wind. Just part of the journey.

There were a few rest stops for a pilgrims, often with a place to fill up water bottles. These are deeply appreciated after the long up Hills.

The route was extraordinarily, beautiful, shifting between lovely, ancient woods, and olive orchards, and a huge vineyard. Often we could see Lake Bolsena in the distance. Each region has had its own beauty. What a joy this is, even though they were very steep ups and downs today on the trail.

Montefiascone had the beautiful and ancient St Flavianus Church, and comparatively new and beautiful cathedral, along with spectacular views from the Rocca and the Tower.of Pilgrims.

If you were going to complete the minimum pilgrimage, Montefiascone is where you would start. Jim and I are happy to be overachievers, though we have nothing on the people we have met who started in Canterbury. It’s all good.

 

[Corned Beef]

You're not alone in liking Montefiascone. Various popes have had summer residences (Rocca dei Papi) there and would have enjoyed this view over Lake Bolsena

 

[peregrina2000]

If you were going to complete the minimum pilgrimage, Montefiascone is where you would start.

Is there a “100 km minimum” for the VF equivalent of the compostela?

Are the numbers of tourists decreasing, or are they still around in full force? I am currently in Lisbon and saw yesterday that there was a line of at least 200 people waiting to get on the famous tram car, no. 28! That struck me as quite late in the season for long tourist lines, and I know you have mentioned tourist crowds in some of your earlier posts, so I’m just curious.

And here’s another question I’m wondering about — I have seen several references to there being a lot of asphalt/pavement/road walking on the VF. My impression of reading your posts has been that you’ve been walking on a lot of off-road trails. What’s been your experience?

Sorry to pepper you with questions, really enjoying this live view of the VF.

 

[J.Patrick]

Is there a “100 km minimum” for the VF equivalent of the compostela?

Yes, 100 km for the Testimonium at St. Peter’s.

Are the numbers of tourists decreasing, or are they still around in full force? I am currently in Lisbon and saw yesterday that there was a line of at least 200 people waiting to get on the famous tram car, no. 28! That struck me as quite late in the season for long tourist lines, and I know you have mentioned tourist crowds in some of your earlier posts, so I’m just curious.

The first week of October had large numbers of tourists in Pisa, Lucca, and a week later in Siena. The numbers may be less than a summer crush, but tourist were everywhere.

And here’s another question I’m wondering about — I have seen several references to there being a lot of asphalt/pavement/road walking on the VF. My impression of reading your posts has been that you’ve been walking on a lot of off-road trails. What’s been your experience?

Anecdotally, I’d say 70-75% gravel road or trail, very often well graded, vs 25/30 % paved. It hasn’t been too bad from my perspective.

Sorry to pepper you with questions, really enjoying this live view of the VF.

Truly, my pleasure!

 

[J.Patrick]

Viterbo — Oct 21

This morning’s walk began with the constant, sometimes steep, descent from the city. Just before leaving, though, there was a break in the fog, and we could see lake Bolsena beautifully and clearly. The weather report suggested a 60% chance of rain during the walk, but once again, we only had sprinkles, not even enough to break out our rain jackets.

The countryside wasn’t stunning, yet it was pleasant, if not overwhelming in any sense. It led Jim and myself into a very rich conversation

As we approached Viterbo, we came to outdoor thermal baths, that are usually available and free. There didn’t seem to be any water though.

As as often is the case with sizeable towns, the outskirts of Viterbo, which is a city, were industrial and functional rather than beautiful. Traffic built up as we entered deeper into the city. We moved into the medieval section of the city, and found it more pleasant.

We had a terrific lunch, and then visited the beautiful Santissima Trinitas church.

We went to the Etruscan museum of the city. We spent several hours learning about the ancient peoples who predated, the Romans in Tuscany and northern Lazio.

And finally it rained, but we were safe and dry in our little hotel.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

@J.Patrick, I'm glad I caught up on this thread of your time on the Via Francigena. I walked nearly the same stretches and end stages as you last fall. Your descriptive posts and lovely photos had me back there again, walking alongside you as I reminisced. It was definitely one of my favorite walks. Thank you!

 

[J.Patrick]

Viterbo, day 2 — Oct 22

On our last rest day before Rome, in Viterbo, we made our way over to the cathedral complex. The cathedral of San Lorenzo was bombed during 1944 during World War II. When it was restored, it was simplified to its original Romanesque style. In its simplicity, it was very beautiful. One of the pictures below shows a pillar with unrepairef war damage…lest we forget.

Jim and I then went over to the Cathedral Museum and the Papal residence in Viterbo. In the mid to late 1200s, several popes in a row took up residence in Viterbo to avoid the political difficulties in Rome with the noble families there. A simple beautiful palace was constructed for them. We had a fascinating window into a very tumultuous time, with popes dying of illnesses after only a single day in office.

It was here in Viterbo that the cardinals couldn’t decide who should be pope after 33 months. The people of the town, who had to support all of the cardinals during their stay, locked the doors “with a key” (in Latin con clave), thus the origins of our word “conclave.” That was insufficient to get them to a decision so the citizens took the roof off of the hall of the papal residence and forced the cardinals to live in tents until they made a decision. Some of the rules that were created at that time exist to this day, to safeguard cardinals from political influence.

We attended a perfectly satisfying Mass at the cathedral. After the time with papal politics it was so good to spend time in simple prayer.

We museum hopped twice more to see the amazing frescos in the Palazzo dei Priori, and the somewhat eclectic Museo Civico. Poor Jim! I wore out his great goodwill (I can spend a lot of time in museums reading everything) and had to placate him with an extra large gelato. He’s taking a nap now. All shall be well.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Jim and I then went over to the Cathedral Museum and the Papal residence in Viterbo. In the mid to late 1200s, several popes in a row took up residence in Viterbo to avoid the political difficulties in Rome with the noble families there. A simple beautiful palace was constructed for them. We had a fascinating window into a very tumultuous time, with popes dying of illnesses after only a single day in office.

It was here in Viterbo that the cardinals couldn’t decide who should be pope after 33 months. The people of the town, who had to support all of the cardinals during their stay, locked the doors “with a key” (in Latin con clave), thus the origins of our word “conclave.” That was insufficient to get them to a decision so the citizens took the roof off of the hall of the papal residence and forced the cardinals to live in tents until they made a decision. Some of the rules that were created at that time exist to this day, to safeguard cardinals from political influence.

This was a very interesting piece of history to read; almost unbelievable, yet true!
Thanks for taking the time to add it to your daily write-up.

 

[J.Patrick]

Vetralla — Oct 23

Today we had three choices. There is the extraordinarily long route, 42 km to Sutri (out of the question), and a 17 km optional route to Vetrala, with a possible 1.5 km extension to see some Etruscan burial sites and a Roman bridge, which we decided to walk — having done it, I do not recommend it.

The road passed through a Via Cava—a road dug deep into the soil by the wheels of the Etruscans! The Roman bridge was a disappointment (little remains). The various Etruscan sites were even more of a disappointment, being simply holes in the ground covered with plywood.

In the early 300s Saint Valentine and Deacon Hillary who came from the East to preach, were martyred and buried here, outside of Viterbo, in the persecutions of Diocletian.

So if you wanted to see Etruscan burial sites, you don’t see much.

We did discover that we were walking on the original Via Francigena that existed before the 800 AD incursion of the people of Viterbo who wiped out the poor little town of Saint Valentine, stealing his relics and moving them to the cathedral…a curious way to practice religion!

The way back to the official alternate version was a little tricky. If you’re not following the Stations of the Cross on the way back, you’re on the wrong route.

After that, the walk was, at times, nondescript, with lots of olive orchards and some large fields of kale. We walked at times in some deep ruts in the road. It wasn’t until we climbed up through an olive orchard and sat down at a wonderful rest station, up high and looking out over the scenery, that we had any idea of just how beautiful it all was. Life can be that way when you’re in a rut (“when you’re a rat” according to auto-correct).

Vetralla was very poor at one end of the Medieval town, growing slightly more prosperous at the other. The remaining tower there was rebuilt after Allied bombs destroyed the castle, used by Nazis to store equipment.

 

[jalluisi]

Vetralla — Oct 23

Today we had three choices. There is the extraordinarily long route, 42 km to Sutri (out of the question), and a 17 km optional route to Vetrala, with a possible 1.5 km extension to see some Etruscan burial sites and a Roman bridge, which we decided to walk — having done it, I do not recommend it.

The road passed through a Via Cava—a road dug deep into the soil by the wheels of the Etruscans! The Roman bridge was a disappointment (little remains). The various Etruscan sites were even more of a disappointment, being simply holes in the ground covered with plywood.

In the early 300s Saint Valentine and Deacon Hillary who came from the East to preach, were martyred and buried here, outside of Viterbo, in the persecutions of Diocletian.

So if you wanted to see Etruscan burial sites, you don’t see much.

We did discover that we were walking on the original Via Francigena that existed before the 800 AD incursion of the people of Viterbo who wiped out the poor little town of Saint Valentine, stealing his relics and moving them to the cathedral…a curious way to practice religion!

The way back to the official alternate version was a little tricky. If you’re not following the Stations of the Cross on the way back, you’re on the wrong route.

After that, the walk was, at times, nondescript, with lots of olive orchards and some large fields of kale. We walked at times in some deep ruts in the road. It wasn’t until we climbed up through an olive orchard and sat down at a wonderful rest station, up high and looking out over the scenery, that we had any idea of just how beautiful it all was. Life can be that way when you’re in a rut (“when you’re a rat” according to auto-correct).

Vetralla was very poor at one end of the Medieval town, growing slightly more prosperous at the other. The remaining tower there was rebuilt after Allied bombs destroyed the castle, used by Nazis to store equipment.

How many days is your Camino? Thanks for sharing and the pictures are wonderful.

 

[J.Patrick]

How many days is your Camino? Thanks for sharing and the pictures are wonderful.

My full Camino will be 31 days! — I am so blessed!

 

[J.Patrick]

Our day began with a visit to the simple, sweet Immaculate, Heart of Mary Church on the outskirts of Vetralla.

We’re on pilgrimage to the tomb of St. Peter’s and we’re getting fairly close. It just seemed appropriate that we spend the morning discussing him, his brokenness, his hardheadedness, his desire to take control. Pilgrimage is a good antidote to our own Peter-like inclinations

It was a long day — 17 miles if my iPhone is to be trusted. It was split between an utterly satisfying forest walk, and then a very long, fairly flat walk through chestnut orchards. We passed through the attractive, even charming town of Capronica, visiting its churches, and then made our way to Sutri, picking up snacks (no gelato! The horror!!!) and then another couple of miles out of our way to our agriturismo.

On this, my 26th day of walking, it had to happen, it finally rained and thundered and then a crazy windstorm. It was crazy and exciting. We were prepared and yet still got soaked. We have wet things everywhere. The power was out, and there was no hot water for shower number one but we just got word that the hot water is back on — now to shower #2!!!!

 

[J.Patrick]

Campagnano di Roma — Oct 25

When we left this morning, we had occasional light drizzles. But we saw one tree after another that had been toppled by the storm the day before. The beautiful gravel paths were scarred by little rivets of water.

We spent 2 1/2 hours walking to Monteros, and will spend the rest of the day walking onto Campagna de Roma. I couldn’t help but notice, while passing over a freeway that the next offramp for the cars was going to take us 3 1/2 hours of walking. There’s a curious beauty to walking slowly through a place. You just can’t get it from a car.

We came to the little town of Monterosi, one of the churches we prayed at was the little chapel of San Giuseppe (St. Joseph) which had modern paintings of Joseph, the Carpenter, somewhat poorly done. But the heart was all there. To the left of the altar, they had a Pilgrim staff, with a little note, inviting anyone who wanted to use it to take it with them on their Camino to Santiago. According to that notice, it has been used several times, last in 2015.

People ask me if we’re actually walking the authentic, ancient path. Often enough, the ancient path, as in the Via Cassia, which I have been on since Sarzana, became a Medieval road, and the road then became a highway, and is now a freeway. The people who chart our paths do everything they can to keep us on safe back roads so maybe not the ancient highway, but none of us would choose to walk a freeway. We did precisely that, briefly, just long enough to be grateful for their efforts to make the path more peaceful.

We were promised a lovely day, on rolling hills, making our way to Campagnano. It has been everything we were told it would be.

There was a higher percentage of asphalted road today than has been the case.

The little waterfall of Monte Gelato is sweet and small, and very close to the road, and worthy of a stop. The name promises SO much, but no gelato.

Unfortunately, for us, wind damage tossed trees, completely blocking our way just before rising up to our destination. But we were intrepid. Pants were stained if not ripped, small blessings.

Campano de Roma sneaks up on you, right out of the woods. After a very long day, it was a truly welcome sight. No city on this pilgrimage has worked as hard as this one, explaining its history with placards in Italian and English at places of interest.

 

[Kirkie]

Campagnano di Roma — Oct 25

When we left this morning, we had occasional light drizzles. But we saw one tree after another that had been toppled by the storm the day before. The beautiful gravel paths were scarred by little rivets of water.

We spent 2 1/2 hours walking to Monteros, and will spend the rest of the day walking onto Campagna de Roma. I couldn’t help but notice, while passing over a freeway that the next offramp for the cars was going to take us 3 1/2 hours of walking. There’s a curious beauty to walking slowly through a place. You just can’t get it from a car.

We came to the little town of Monterosi, one of the churches we prayed at was the little chapel of San Giuseppe (St. Joseph) which had modern paintings of Joseph, the Carpenter, somewhat poorly done. But the heart was all there. To the left of the altar, they had a Pilgrim staff, with a little note, inviting anyone who wanted to use it to take it with them on their Camino to Santiago. According to that notice, it has been used several times, last in 2015.

People ask me if we’re actually walking the authentic, ancient path. Often enough, the ancient path, as in the Via Cassia, which I have been on since Sarzana, became a Medieval road, and the road then became a highway, and is now a freeway. The people who chart our paths do everything they can to keep us on safe back roads so maybe not the ancient highway, but none of us would choose to walk a freeway. We did precisely that, briefly, just long enough to be grateful for their efforts to make the path more peaceful.

We were promised a lovely day, on rolling hills, making our way to Campagnano. It has been everything we were told it would be.

There was a higher percentage of asphalted road today than has been the case.

The little waterfall of Monte Gelato is sweet and small, and very close to the road, and worthy of a stop. The name promises SO much, but no gelato.

Unfortunately, for us, wind damage tossed trees, completely blocking our way just before rising up to our destination. But we were intrepid. Pants were stained if not ripped, small blessings.

Campano de Roma sneaks up on you, right out of the woods. After a very long day, it was a truly welcome sight. No city on this pilgrimage has worked as hard as this one, explaining its history with placards in Italian and English at places of interest.

I am thoroughly enjoying your reports, but this one especially lets your own heart shine through. Thanks.

 

[J.Patrick]

La Storta — Oct 26

It rained all last night, and everything was fresh and bright this morning, as the sun is out for the first time in a few days. The way out of Campagnano goes straight up and straight down a bracing walk each way. Even though the guide book informed us we were walking into the outskirts of the suburbs of Rome, there was still mostly green and open fields and mountains. We journey for three hours through a nature preserve that was all forest. It was a perfectly lovely morning.

I noticed that wild boar shows up on many, many menus. I wondered if there could possibly be as many wildboar, as there is food served. This morning I saw my first wild boar with little piglets. They were hiding in the bushes and scampered off when I noticed them. Less than a minute later, I heard gunshots way off in the distance. Apparently the hunt continues.

The first church of the day was the Santuario de la Madonna del Sorbo. A beautiful, little Carmelite church. It was a happy place.

We passed through the very lovely and apparently prosperous little town of Formello, and came to what appeared to be a Jesuit church.

The afternoon carried us through harvested farmland, more deep woods, and past some sites where ancient, as in 3,000 year old Etruscan burials were carried out. Apparently the excavations are done, and the land has returned to farming.

The storm of two days ago knocked down some trees right across the Francigena. We had to boonie-stomp through an extended patch of wildness to find our way through.

We both judged it a thoroughly satisfying day, with lots of asphalt in the morning, but paths in the afternoon, and lots of forest and open farmland, this close to the city.

Tomorrow, on to Rome!

 

[jalluisi]

My full Camino will be 31 days! — I am so blessed!

Wow! Glad you got 31 days. We will only have about 3 weeks. I suppose we would need see if it is possible to complete Lucca to Rome in 3 weeks. Thanks for sharing!! Buen Camino!!

 

[jalluisi]

Viterbo, day 2 — Oct 22

On our last rest day before Rome, in Viterbo, we made our way over to the cathedral complex. The cathedral of San Lorenzo was bombed during 1944 during World War II. When it was restored, it was simplified to its original Romanesque style. In its simplicity, it was very beautiful. One of the pictures below shows a pillar with unrepairef war damage…lest we forget.

Jim and I then went over to the Cathedral Museum and the Papal residence in Viterbo. In the mid to late 1200s, several popes in a row took up residence in Viterbo to avoid the political difficulties in Rome with the noble families there. A simple beautiful palace was constructed for them. We had a fascinating window into a very tumultuous time, with popes dying of illnesses after only a single day in office.

It was here in Viterbo that the cardinals couldn’t decide who should be pope after 33 months. The people of the town, who had to support all of the cardinals during their stay, locked the doors “with a key” (in Latin con clave), thus the origins of our word “conclave.” That was insufficient to get them to a decision so the citizens took the roof off of the hall of the papal residence and forced the cardinals to live in tents until they made a decision. Some of the rules that were created at that time exist to this day, to safeguard cardinals from political influence.

We attended a perfectly satisfying Mass at the cathedral. After the time with papal politics it was so good to spend time in simple prayer.

We museum hopped twice more to see the amazing frescos in the Palazzo dei Priori, and the somewhat eclectic Museo Civico. Poor Jim! I wore out his great goodwill (I can spend a lot of time in museums reading everything) and had to placate him with an extra large gelato. He’s taking a nap now. All shall be well.

Great learning about the history. I did not know that this happened in Viterbo.

 

[Corned Beef]

Wow! Glad you got 31 days. We will only have about 3 weeks. I suppose we would need see if it is possible to complete Lucca to Rome in 3 weeks. Thanks for sharing!! Buen Camino!!

It would be a great shame to complete it in 3 weeks. The scenery, art and history you'll see is worth a delay.

 

[jalluisi]

It would be a great shame to complete it in 3 weeks. The scenery, art and history you'll see is worth a delay.

Maybe we will wait until we have more time to enjoy it. Thanks!

 

[J.Patrick]

Wow! Glad you got 31 days. We will only have about 3 weeks. I suppose we would need see if it is possible to complete Lucca to Rome in 3 weeks. Thanks for sharing!! Buen Camino!!

You have to be open to no rest days and doubling up the km that we chose to do. I might suggest starting in Siena, though I loved the week between Lucca and Siena.

 

[jalluisi]

You have to be open to no rest days and doubling up the km that we chose to do. I might suggest starting in Siena, though I loved the week between Lucca and Siena.

Thank you. Lucca is a great city. We haven't been to Siena. I would prefer to start in Lucca. We are comfortable walking up to 18 miles can do more but with packs I get too tired than one cannot enjoy the town one is visiting.

 

[J.Patrick]

Rome! — Oct 27

When we leave in the early morning, the Via Cassia is a very, very busy road with constant traffic. But there are still green growing things and Jim is still in a good mood.

After an hour and 33 minutes of walking, just as you’re about to despair, you turn off the Via Cassia and enter into the park which is a blessed change, if overgrown. Jim suggested, if you’re coming in a couple of weeks you bring a machete for the thorny vines that just might grab your clothing.

Then, when we were maybe 8 miles from St. Peter’s, there was a shepherd with whole flock of sheep and adorable little lambs, reminding us of Peter’s roll and Pope Francis ‘role as chief shepherds of the Catholic flock. I couldn’t help notice that most of the adult sheep had a lot of burrs, I’m wondering what’s the right metaphor?

A very steep uphill brings us into Rome, proper, I’m guessing, very busy streets, very much alive, broad avenues, and all the traffic.

After wandering through streets, for sometime, we arrive at Mount Mario, referred to by Medieval pilgrims as Monte Della Gioia, or Mt. Joy.

I have a friend Juan Romero, whose ancestors came from Spain to Mexico. His last name, apparently, comes from an ancient ancestor’s pilgrimage to Rome. I find it curious that when the people of Galicia, including Santiago, go on their local pilgrimages, they call them romerías. Well, while we have all headed to Santiago, our modern destination of choice (which I loved), the ancient desire was to go to Rome. The tradition is that St. Peter, St. Jude, and St. Simon are buried in St. Peter’s Basilica, St. Paul is supposed to be buried in Rome in St. Paul Outside the Walls, as well as St. Bartholomew, on the island of the same name, and St. Philip and St. James, the Less in the Church of the Holy Apostles. Well, there are greater and lesser doubts about some of these burials, the traditions are much older than that of Santiago in Spain. The wars in the Renaissance between Florence, Milan, Siena, Pisa and Genoa made Rome inaccessible to those who could not afford to go to sea to get around the conflicts. Santiago became the late and safe replacement.

I feel so blessed, in our own time, to make this journey to Rome. It has been spiritual for me and transformative. It offers the embrace of beauty and good food and lovely people, even as it demonstrates how very little we need by way of possessions and business to find happiness. Jim‘s companionship has been SO rich. What a blessing he is for me.

It has been my joy to share my pilgrimage to Rome with you. I hope you find the destination of your heart. Blessings!

 

[Samos]

Hi! So glad you had an amazing experience, you were just 2 weeks behind us on the Francigena so I really enjoyed reading your posts as the places were fresh in my memories.
We headed out of Rome to Assisi just about 2 weeks ago and hope to arrive on Monday, everyone has told us it is beautiful so we are looking forward to it.
Enjoy your time in Rome (if you get the chance go to the church where St Paul is buried, it is beautiful)

Have a blessed day and safe travels home.