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Thanks Chris. Also likely starting the central next Saturday. Curious that most reports are from folk on the littoral. What influenced your decision to walk the central?Hi All,
I finished the Portuguese Camino, from Porto to Santiago, Central Route, on Wednesday 10th October and thought I would share a few observations in case it helps others.
Firstly it was fantastic! I thoroughly enjoyed the whole experience and would wholeheartedly recommend it to anyone who has a couple of weeks to spare. I walked it in 12 days with 1 rest day in Ponte de Lima. (11 days walking).
I pretty much followed the Brierley stages and the first 3 days are pretty long, between 30k and 35k, so I needed a rest day by day 4!
Favourite places were Barcelos, Ponte de Lima, Valenca, Pontevedra and Santiago (Obviously). All the villages / towns were nice enough but these ones stick in the memory.
I found Portugal much cheaper than Spain for the day to day things (Food, beers, coffee, wine etc). But it still wasn't expensive in Spain Even with the pound as it is right now!
It was busier from Valenca but nothing that was uncomfortable. I found it quiet from Porto. I left on the 29th September. No problems with accommodation and I stayed in a mixture of Hostels and Pensions.
The weather was great! Cool in the mornings and evening but lovely and warm during the day and didn't get wet once! I think we were luck with the weather.
Please let me know if you have plans to do it and you think I might be able to advise. I found this board a valuable resource when planning and got some great tips and advice!
Bom Caminho! Chris.
I'm so glad you had such a wonderful trip, Chris! You make it sound definitely worth doing. I have done the Francis split it up and did it half and half two years in a row. Now I'm wondering where to go next. I have thought about Porto to Santiago and then on to finisterra and muxia. Did you see women walking alone? Are there plenty of places to stop for coffee along the way mid-morning perhaps? Did you meet people from all over the world? Thank you for any additional information that you might impart. What's your next adventure?Hi All,
I finished the Portuguese Camino, from Porto to Santiago, Central Route, on Wednesday 10th October and thought I would share a few observations in case it helps others.
Firstly it was fantastic! I thoroughly enjoyed the whole experience and would wholeheartedly recommend it to anyone who has a couple of weeks to spare. I walked it in 12 days with 1 rest day in Ponte de Lima. (11 days walking).
I pretty much followed the Brierley stages and the first 3 days are pretty long, between 30k and 35k, so I needed a rest day by day 4!
Favourite places were Barcelos, Ponte de Lima, Valenca, Pontevedra and Santiago (Obviously). All the villages / towns were nice enough but these ones stick in the memory.
I found Portugal much cheaper than Spain for the day to day things (Food, beers, coffee, wine etc). But it still wasn't expensive in Spain Even with the pound as it is right now!
It was busier from Valenca but nothing that was uncomfortable. I found it quiet from Porto. I left on the 29th September. No problems with accommodation and I stayed in a mixture of Hostels and Pensions.
The weather was great! Cool in the mornings and evening but lovely and warm during the day and didn't get wet once! I think we were luck with the weather.
Please let me know if you have plans to do it and you think I might be able to advise. I found this board a valuable resource when planning and got some great tips and advice!! Chris.
Forgot to ask this question, was the trail mainly off the main roads I have heard there's a lot of concrete along the way true or not?Hi All,
I finished the Portuguese Camino, from Porto to Santiago, Central Route, on Wednesday 10th October and thought I would share a few observations in case it helps others.
Firstly it was fantastic! I thoroughly enjoyed the whole experience and would wholeheartedly recommend it to anyone who has a couple of weeks to spare. I walked it in 12 days with 1 rest day in Ponte de Lima. (11 days walking).
I pretty much followed the Brierley stages and the first 3 days are pretty long, between 30k and 35k, so I needed a rest day by day 4!
Favourite places were Barcelos, Ponte de Lima, Valenca, Pontevedra and Santiago (Obviously). All the villages / towns were nice enough but these ones stick in the memory.
I found Portugal much cheaper than Spain for the day to day things (Food, beers, coffee, wine etc). But it still wasn't expensive in Spain Even with the pound as it is right now!
It was busier from Valenca but nothing that was uncomfortable. I found it quiet from Porto. I left on the 29th September. No problems with accommodation and I stayed in a mixture of Hostels and Pensions.
The weather was great! Cool in the mornings and evening but lovely and warm during the day and didn't get wet once! I think we were luck with the weather.
Please let me know if you have plans to do it and you think I might be able to advise. I found this board a valuable resource when planning and got some great tips and advice!
Bom Caminho! Chris.
It can be a bit tough on the feet, especially in Portugal as there are a lot of cobbled sections. There is also quite a bit of road walking. I walked in walking shoes rather than boots which worked for me. But yes - particularly in Portugal it can be tough on your feet.We have just finished the camin o frances. We have been doing it in stages and by walking leo n to sarria this October have now completed it. We are thinking what next. We found out last section busy and with too much road walking and my feet have suffered. What is the Portuguese way like in terms of paths? I also need frequent coffee stops
I only had a limited amount of time and I think the Central worked out to be the shortest. If I had more time I may have tried a longer route. That said, I am happy I did the Central.Thanks Chris. Also likely starting the central next Saturday. Curious that most reports are from folk on the littoral. What influenced your decision to walk the central?
Hi Tawny, Yes, there were women who seemed to have set off on their own at least and then were walking with other people. It is well catered for along the route. There are plenty of well placed coffee shops along the way. There were people from all over the world I spoke to. Everyone was very friendly, I don't think I met another British person oddly enough. I will look at doing something next year but I have not started planning yet. I am thinking of the Ingles from Ferrol then onto Finisterra. We will see!I'm so glad you had such a wonderful trip, Chris! You make it sound definitely worth doing. I have done the Francis split it up and did it half and half two years in a row. Now I'm wondering where to go next. I have thought about Porto to Santiago and then on to finisterra and muxia. Did you see women walking alone? Are there plenty of places to stop for coffee along the way mid-morning perhaps? Did you meet people from all over the world? Thank you for any additional information that you might impart. What's your next adventure?
There is some road walking but very little on busy roads. Mainly on quite roads, I didn't find it an issue.Forgot to ask this question, was the trail mainly off the main roads I have heard there's a lot of concrete along the way true or not?
I'm planning to travel from Oporto to Santiago on the interior route in mid March 2019. My accommodations are taken care of. I've planned a total of 13 days walking time. About how much cash would you think I should have per day?Hi All,
I finished the Portuguese Camino, from Porto to Santiago, Central Route, on Wednesday 10th October and thought I would share a few observations in case it helps others.
Firstly it was fantastic! I thoroughly enjoyed the whole experience and would wholeheartedly recommend it to anyone who has a couple of weeks to spare. I walked it in 12 days with 1 rest day in Ponte de Lima. (11 days walking).
I pretty much followed the Brierley stages and the first 3 days are pretty long, between 30k and 35k, so I needed a rest day by day 4!
Favourite places were Barcelos, Ponte de Lima, Valenca, Pontevedra and Santiago (Obviously). All the villages / towns were nice enough but these ones stick in the memory.
I found Portugal much cheaper than Spain for the day to day things (Food, beers, coffee, wine etc). But it still wasn't expensive in Spain Even with the pound as it is right now!
It was busier from Valenca but nothing that was uncomfortable. I found it quiet from Porto. I left on the 29th September. No problems with accommodation and I stayed in a mixture of Hostels and Pensions.
The weather was great! Cool in the mornings and evening but lovely and warm during the day and didn't get wet once! I think we were luck with the weather.
Please let me know if you have plans to do it and you think I might be able to advise. I found this board a valuable resource when planning and got some great tips and advice!
Bom Caminho! Chris.
I'm so glad you had such a wonderful trip, Chris! You make it sound definitely worth doing. I have done the Francis split it up and did it half and half two years in a row. Now I'm wondering where to go next. I have thought about Porto to Santiago and then on to finisterra and muxia. Did you see women walking alone? Are there plenty of places to stop for coffee along the way mid-morning perhaps? Did you meet people from all over the world? Thank you for any additional information that you might impart. What's your next adventure?
Thanks for the impressions! My husband and I will be walking the Camino Portugual Coastal route in March of 2019. After all the reading I've done, I am seriously thinking of starting out on the coast but switching over to the Central route at some point if the weather is really windy and rainy consistently! It might be the way to do as I'm reading the Central has lots of lovely scenery and villages. My question is, is the walk pretty much level or is there a lot of climbing on the Central? I don't want to take my trekking poles and this might determine for me if I should. Thanks!Hi All,
I finished the Portuguese Camino, from Porto to Santiago, Central Route, on Wednesday 10th October and thought I would share a few observations in case it helps others.
Firstly it was fantastic! I thoroughly enjoyed the whole experience and would wholeheartedly recommend it to anyone who has a couple of weeks to spare. I walked it in 12 days with 1 rest day in Ponte de Lima. (11 days walking).
I pretty much followed the Brierley stages and the first 3 days are pretty long, between 30k and 35k, so I needed a rest day by day 4!
Favourite places were Barcelos, Ponte de Lima, Valenca, Pontevedra and Santiago (Obviously). All the villages / towns were nice enough but these ones stick in the memory.
I found Portugal much cheaper than Spain for the day to day things (Food, beers, coffee, wine etc). But it still wasn't expensive in Spain Even with the pound as it is right now!
It was busier from Valenca but nothing that was uncomfortable. I found it quiet from Porto. I left on the 29th September. No problems with accommodation and I stayed in a mixture of Hostels and Pensions.
The weather was great! Cool in the mornings and evening but lovely and warm during the day and didn't get wet once! I think we were luck with the weather.
Please let me know if you have plans to do it and you think I might be able to advise. I found this board a valuable resource when planning and got some great tips and advice!
Bom Caminho! Chris.
Just what we are looking for: less people and more solitude. Thanks for sharing. It's great that there is a choice available. I'd prefer avoiding all the crowds of tourists if possible.I walked the PC from 1st to 11th October. Having walked CF last year. Though many consider the Frances to be too busy and commercial, it is more friendly and in my opinion welcoming, as for most pilgrims it is their first Camino. I enjoyed the Portuguese for the scenery and towns. But as a solo traveller I did not find I’d as inclusive or social, I enjoy walking alone but equally I enjoy companionship and social interaction in the evenings - on the PC I found these aspects is short supply.
Made me realise why some people walk the CF exclusively .
You can spend as little or as much as you like, it depends on where and what you eat and drink. I managed on around 50 Euro a day which included the nights accommodation. A bit more when we got to Santiago. That wasn't skimping at all. Decent meals and a few drinks in the evening. I found the nearer you got to Santiago the more you were paying. Portugal seemed very cheap to me.I'm planning to travel from Oporto to Santiago on the interior route in mid March 2019. My accommodations are taken care of. I've planned a total of 13 days walking time. About how much cash would you think I should have per day?
Interesting you should say that as someone else I spoke to who had done the CF said the same. I had only done Sarria to Santiagia previously so don't really have anything to compare it to. I found everyone friendly enough and it did get busier after Tui. I wonder if its because there are different walking routes on the Portuguese that you don't see the same people on the same stages?I walked the PC from 1st to 11th October. Having walked CF last year. Though many consider the Frances to be too busy and commercial, it is more friendly and in my opinion welcoming, as for most pilgrims it is their first Camino. I enjoyed the Portuguese for the scenery and towns. But as a solo traveller I did not find I’d as inclusive or social, I enjoy walking alone but equally I enjoy companionship and social interaction in the evenings - on the PC I found these aspects is short supply.
Made me realise why some people walk the CF exclusively .
The biggest hill was on around day 4, the day I left Pone De Lima. That's the only one that really sticks in my mind and that was steep. Other than that, while there were hills there was nothing too strenuous. There is a very steep downhill into Redondela. I used the Brierley guide which I like and it gives you the elevations for each stage.Thanks for the impressions! My husband and I will be walking the Camino Portugual Coastal route in March of 2019. After all the reading I've done, I am seriously thinking of starting out on the coast but switching over to the Central route at some point if the weather is really windy and rainy consistently! It might be the way to do as I'm reading the Central has lots of lovely scenery and villages. My question is, is the walk pretty much level or is there a lot of climbing on the Central? I don't want to take my trekking poles and this might determine for me if I should. Thanks!
I did the Central route last March. Out of Porto took the coastal to Vila do Conde its flat and goes along the Atlantic. From there cut over to Central some hills but not to serious. Leaving Ponte de Lima to Rubiales there is one long climb take your time and its fine. The rest is very scenic and I met some wonderful people from all over the world. We all had a lot of fun and good times. Like Chris says Valença, Ponte de Lima (see Che’s bar), Pontverde, and the Monastary at Hebron outside Padron (worth a stay) were my favs. Last thing it rained everyday sometimes hard and mix fo sleet when higher up. But everyone handled it well and got thru it. Oh Casa Fernanda between Barcelos and Ponte de Lima worth a stay we had big time fun. I’ll be there in March myself planning on Primitivo but if weather doesn’t cooperate I might change my mind and do Porto to Santiago Coastal then to Finisterre and Muxia. Buen CaminoThanks for the impressions! My husband and I will be walking the Camino Portugual Coastal route in March of 2019. After all the reading I've done, I am seriously thinking of starting out on the coast but switching over to the Central route at some point if the weather is really windy and rainy consistently! It might be the way to do as I'm reading the Central has lots of lovely scenery and villages. My question is, is the walk pretty much level or is there a lot of climbing on the Central? I don't want to take my trekking poles and this might determine for me if I should. Thanks!
Thanks so much for your input! This answered a lot of questions I had. Yes, we've decided to start on the coastal and weather-depending, move to the central. The spontaneity is part of the fun. We have no problems with changing our minds if need be. Thanks again as you are the first reply I've gotten from someone who actually has done the coastal in March!I did the Central route last March. Out of Porto took the coastal to Vila do Conde its flat and goes along the Atlantic. From there cut over to Central some hills but not to serious. Leaving Ponte de Lima to Rubiales there is one long climb take your time and its fine. The rest is very scenic and I met some wonderful people from all over the world. We all had a lot of fun and good times. Like Chris says Valença, Ponte de Lima (see Che’s bar), Pontverde, and the Monastary at Hebron outside Padron (worth a stay) were my favs. Last thing it rained everyday sometimes hard and mix fo sleet when higher up. But everyone handled it well and got thru it. Oh Casa Fernanda between Barcelos and Ponte de Lima worth a stay we had big time fun. I’ll be there in March myself planning on Primitivo but if weather doesn’t cooperate I might change my mind and do Porto to Santiago Coastal then to Finisterre and Muxia. Buen Camino
Hi ChrisHi All,
I finished the Portuguese Camino, from Porto to Santiago, Central Route, on Wednesday 10th October and thought I would share a few observations in case it helps others.
Firstly it was fantastic! I thoroughly enjoyed the whole experience and would wholeheartedly recommend it to anyone who has a couple of weeks to spare. I walked it in 12 days with 1 rest day in Ponte de Lima. (11 days walking).
I pretty much followed the Brierley stages and the first 3 days are pretty long, between 30k and 35k, so I needed a rest day by day 4!
Favourite places were Barcelos, Ponte de Lima, Valenca, Pontevedra and Santiago (Obviously). All the villages / towns were nice enough but these ones stick in the memory.
I found Portugal much cheaper than Spain for the day to day things (Food, beers, coffee, wine etc). But it still wasn't expensive in Spain Even with the pound as it is right now!
It was busier from Valenca but nothing that was uncomfortable. I found it quiet from Porto. I left on the 29th September. No problems with accommodation and I stayed in a mixture of Hostels and Pensions.
The weather was great! Cool in the mornings and evening but lovely and warm during the day and didn't get wet once! I think we were luck with the weather.
Please let me know if you have plans to do it and you think I might be able to advise. I found this board a valuable resource when planning and got some great tips and advice!
Bom Caminho! Chris.
Hi Tony, the way was well marked and I didn't take the wrong path any time so no issues there. Plenty of hostels and Albergue too. The route caters well for pilgrims.Hi Chris
How were the marking arrows along the way and where there many Hostels, Albergue. Thanks for sharing. Cheers Tony
Hi All,
I finished the Portuguese Camino, from Porto to Santiago, Central Route, on Wednesday 10th October and thought I would share a few observations in case it helps others.
Firstly it was fantastic! I thoroughly enjoyed the whole experience and would wholeheartedly recommend it to anyone who has a couple of weeks to spare. I walked it in 12 days with 1 rest day in Ponte de Lima. (11 days walking).
I pretty much followed the Brierley stages and the first 3 days are pretty long, between 30k and 35k, so I needed a rest day by day 4!
Favourite places were Barcelos, Ponte de Lima, Valenca, Pontevedra and Santiago (Obviously). All the villages / towns were nice enough but these ones stick in the memory.
I found Portugal much cheaper than Spain for the day to day things (Food, beers, coffee, wine etc). But it still wasn't expensive in Spain Even with the pound as it is right now!
It was busier from Valenca but nothing that was uncomfortable. I found it quiet from Porto. I left on the 29th September. No problems with accommodation and I stayed in a mixture of Hostels and Pensions.
The weather was great! Cool in the mornings and evening but lovely and warm during the day and didn't get wet once! I think we were luck with the weather.
Please let me know if you have plans to do it and you think I might be able to advise. I found this board a valuable resource when planning and got some great tips and advice!
Bom Caminho! Chris.
It is certainly possible to do shorter stages than Brierley suggests. You don't say where you are starting. It may be challenging to keep it to under 12 miles max if you are starting from Lisbon. That may mean waling 12 miles on some days, then taking a taxi forward or back to the nearest village with a place to sleep, then taking a taxi the next day back to where you left off.
From Porto, here is a potential itinerary. It's not the same one I used. I had a bit higher maximum than you do. I cannot speak to the quality of the accommodations in all of the end points, but there are accommodations there. Likewise, some of these places may not have the restaurants, groceries and ATMs you will find in the more typical pilgrim resting spots but that's what you get stopping "between stages". You can stock up in the larger villages or towns as you pass through. But this does pretty much conform to your stated max of 12 miles (19.2 km) per day. This also takes you along the river out of Porto to the coast and then heads inland at Vila do Conde to Arcos, because that's what I did and I liked it.
Porto to Matosinhos
Matosinhos to Vila Chã
Vila Chã to Arcos
Arcos to Barcelinhos
Barcelinhos to Vitorino dos Piães (Casa da Fernanda)
Casa da Fernanda to Ponte de Lima
Ponte de Lima to Rubiães
Rubiães to Tui
Tui to O Porriño
O Porriño to Redondela
Redondela to Pontevedra (this one is about half a km beyond your maximum)
Pontevedra to Tivó (this is within your max but I would suggest walking the extra 2 km to Caldas de Reis)
Tivó (or Caldas de Reis) to Pontecesures
Pontecesures to O Faramello
O Faramello to Santiago
That's 15 days but it does keep you to the distance range you asked for,
I should add that, while I can't speak to the quality of accommodations at all the stops on the itinerary I shared, I can speak to Casa da Fernanda. If you end up taking the Central route north from Barcelos, I would highly recommend stopping at Casa da Fernanda. But make reservations a few days ahead. There aren't that many beds and they are in high demand.Thank you for the reply, David ... I find it most helpful. Yes ... we are starting in Porto.
We are retired so time is not a problem. joann
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