primativo in early july

[chrishoran99]

i hope to walk the primativo alone in early july, and speak only english. will this present difficulties? should i begin studying? also, what temperatures can one expect at this time?

 

[Jeff Stys]

I walked the Primitivo last year in September. It was a beautiful route with a few challenging ascents. It's well marked with a reasonable number of albuergues.

As it is a less traveled route, Spanish would be really helpful. There will likely be other pilgrims to help out at the beginning and end of the walking day, but there may be long stretches when you are all on your own.

I would try to get at least some basics in before you leave. It could make the trip much less frustrating.

Weather was great in September. A bit warm in places but mostly good walking weather.

Jeff

 

[chrishoran99]

thanks jeff. i'll get back to the books right away.
Also, I plan to do 40 plus kilometres a day. is this a viable option? (mid 40's and reasonably fit!)

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, chris,

40 km a day will put you in the "elite walkers" group -- you will only meet a few people who keep up that pace day after day. I've met some over the years, and they tend to be from Western Europe, male, wiry, and unstoppable (and usually are in their mid 40s or older).

The "good walkers" tend to walk in the high 20s to low 30s a day, I'd say, with the occasional high 30s or low 40s if absolutely necessary.

I think most people (at least your average fit middle aged person) find that mid 20s is a good average, but of course everyone is different.

I don't mean to suggest this is a scientific breakdown, but just the generalizations I make after 10 or 11 caminos. But I will say that 40 kms a day, day after day, will generally take a real toll on the body that's not used to that pace and amount of pounding on the feet. If you can be flexible, I think the best advice would be to try it out and see how it goes without over-doing it. When my son was 19 he walked the Camino, and he was at the time very fit, but he was a typical know-it-all teenage male. He almost had to stop after his first four days. He met a couple of very experienced middle aged Germans who invited him to come along for their 40 kms a day ride. Fortunately, my son stopped and recouped and let his body repair itself. He recognizes now that he never would have made it to Santiago at that pace. The key thing is to just listen to your body, it will speak out loud and clear if 40 kms is too high a daily pace.

The Camino Primitivo has a fair amount of ascent and descent, but nothing an average-ly fit person can't easily walk. I would also say the average number of days from Oviedo to Santiago runs from a low of 10 to 15 or 16. You will love the Primitivo! I'm going to walk it again this summer, but I will be a few weeks before you. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[peregrino_tom]

Chris
these are all wise and true words from Laurie.
If you can, slow down a little. Take detours, enjoy that second café con leche with the slightly mellower pilgrims of the Primitivo.
Breathe it all in and savour it :~)

 

[chrishoran99]

thank you, laurie and tom, the body does know best. good to see that some things improve with age!

 

[peregrina2000]

I thought I'd add one more thing to my sterotyped generalizations -- those wiry western European male super walkers also tend to be able to consume an almost unfathomable amount of beer, so maybe that's the secret.

 

[chrishoran99]

Thanks, I'll try to build up some stamina at the bar too! Two further questions. My hiking experience is as a hill walker and I assume a summer hiking boot is the most appropriate footwear for the Primativo route. Do you experienced walkers agree? Also, covering long daily distances will mean late arrival at albergues- will this mean no room at the inn?

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Chris,
The primitivo is becoming more and more popular very quickly, especially among Spaniards, it seems to me. When I walked only 3 years ago, there was a small group but never a problem with beds, even in the smaller albergues like San Roman de Retorta. (This was in October, though)

Last year in Santiago, I ran into a Spanish guy I had met on the Vdlp in 2010, and he had just finished the Primitivo (This was in mid June). He said things were quite crowded and that some days he had had to walk on. But it didn't sound desperate. As I'm planning my walk for this May/June, I've been noticing that there are new private albergues that didn't exist a few years ago, so I'm hoping it won't be too difficult.

As far as the eternal boots/shoes question, you can find hundreds of various opinions on different threads here. I am partial to boots, but that's just me. My two reasons are the support it gives my ankle, and the fact that it's much easier to walk through mud in hiking boots than regular mesh workout shoes. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Josefine]

I walked in August 2010 and as I never hurry I arrived too late for the albergue several days. Even the private ones and the hotels filled up but something was arranged for us "latearrivals", schools, parroquial centers etc Only one night people had too sleep outside, on the churchyard and the nights are cold in the mountains. That night, me and my group found an empty "horreo" and we stayed there. It was quite warm and in the dark you don't see the spiders :wink:
I hope to walk it again someday, I loved the Primitivo.

 

[peregrino_tom]

Re: primitivo in early july

Chris
In September/October the municipal albergues (which are generally pretty small on the Primitivo) were just about full each evening. There were spare mattresses for slight over capacity if necessary. In Oviedo lots of people were sleeping in the garden at the back. I think most of them were pilgrims, but we weren't entirely sure...
It might well be busier when you go.
If I was going at that time I might take a sleeping mat - others may have a view on that.

As for shoes - I'd say think more South Downs than Lake District

 

[sweden]

Hi.
I´m starting from Oviedo 2th of July. My plan is to walk to Santiago in 10 days. Some days is 40 km distance. I am from Sweden and I start alone. Hope there is some company along the camino.

Magnus

 

[chrishoran99]

Are biting/blood sucking/stinging insects a significant issue on the Primitivo route?

 

[TerryB]

Hi Chris,
We have just returned to the UK from the Primitivo so you will be walking 2 months after us. As to insects, very few mossies and not a sign of the dreaded bedbugs! Early July is still relatively early in the year for either of these species to be a problem. Certainly the private albergue at Castro had a 'disinfection certificate' for 6 months against 'bichos! As for the shoe / boot debate we would certainly favour boots - as Laurie says, at least something that gives much needed ankle support.
In our opinion more 'Lake District' than 'South Downs'. You will not find this kind of scenery (or this kind of track) in Sussex!!!

Blessings on your walking!
Terry

 

[chrishoran99]

Terry, thank you for reassurance on those two key areas! I travel on July 5th, and hope 30km plus days won't see me sleeping al fresco as I arrive last at Albergues. I have decided against a tent as back up to cut down on weight, so will take it as it comes.

 

[peregrina nicole]

Hi! I did the Primitivo last summer from Villaviciosa and this year from Lugo. I've posted 'live from the Camino Primitivo streams for both trips. I've read through all of the questions and answers from this stream and I think that I have most still in my head. Insects: No problem from what you would normally experience in Europe. Full hiking boots? For me: no. Mind you, I am a very experienced hill walker. Going out into the Scottish mountains, I would always have boots with ankle support. On the primitivo this is not necessary. The paths are like motorways for anyone who has walked in the hills in Scotland. What you do need are poles as these save your knees. While you are young and invincible not having poles seems like a good plan but once your body starts to wear down, your knees will thank you having used poles when you were younger and invincible.

The Primitivo? I love it! For a start, you have to appreciate the history. This route is called the "primitivo" because this was "the" route before the French route was even created. As a result, the Camino takes you through lovely villages. However, as this is not a very popular route, it hasn't been affected by the comercialisation of the French route. I've met plenty of Camino Frances people who complain about the "comercialisation" of the route, but then I ask if any of them have set off with a full day's worth of food and water in their rucksacks. When I did the Primitivo last year, there was no food at San Ramon de Retorta or at As Seixas. The Xunta albergue at San Ramon has cooking equipment but no food. Nito, the person in charge of the new private albergue in San Ramon (O Candido) will provide food but this needs to be booked ASAP when you arrive as he goes to Lugo to prepare the food (for details see my "Live from the Primitivo" post.

My best advice for the primitivo is to keep on top of recent develpments with regard to where the albergues are. As I had done the Primitivo before, I didn't to bother to update my information on what was happening at San Ramon. I showed up with food and a tent, just in case. Of course, there was an albergue privado. I had a wee chat with Nito and was given a single room. Nito was very helpful with giving me info on the the new albergue which I have included in my report on the

 

[Tia Valeria]

If you have time to read it before you go I have put some comments and photos of our time on the Primitivo here http://www.caminodesantiago.me/board/camino-primitivo/topic14228.html.
Personally I was glad of ankle support and we would always wear light leather hiking boots. Leather because we could proof them and were glad to be able to keep our feet dry some days. We also had a single stout stick each, for those steep descents etc
Buen Camino, and please do post about your experiences even if, like us, it is when you get home

 

[chrishoran99]

Friends, I chickened out. On arriving in Oviedo, I paid my respects at the Cathedral and jumped on a bus to Leon, joining the Frances. For a 10 day trip, I figured the Primitivo would be beyond me, and having done 32km a day on the Frances, I think I was right. I realised the camino isn't suited to a predetermined pace, as you've suggested. I will return a wiser pilgrim.

 

[Tia Valeria]

Congratulations on walking the right Camino for you at this time. That's not 'chickening out' it was sensible.
If the Primitivo still calls then one day you will be able to make the time to do it and enjoy it.

 

[chrishoran99]

Best to take some precautions before the camino. Bed bugs :shock: :shock: are a problem and some homework can minimise their negative impact. Look up how to prevent and deal with this issue before setting out.