Susan B Johnson
PuraVida
- Time of past OR future Camino
- June (2016)
For 2024 Pilgrims: €50,- donation = 1 year with no ads on the forum + 90% off any 2024 Guide. More here. (Discount code sent to you by Private Message after your donation) |
---|
For someone with dodgy knees the descent into Pasaje on the first day is about the most difficult challenge. The last time I did it I nearly sat down to wriggle my way along. My knees were so sore. The ascent on the other side via the stairs is not particularly pleasant either, but thankfully there is an alternative. The rest of the way is doable with an acceptable level of discomfort in a few places. The climbs on the Primitivo are more frequent and generally steeper. But the descents are not as severe. Though the descent towards the reservoir is very unstable with lots of loose broken slabs. I managed both with the aid of knee braces. The rest of the Primitivo is quite stable underfoot.I have long wanted to walk the Primitivo and plan to go this summer with a friend. However, her knees aren't in the best shape and I'm concerned about the steep incline and declines of the Primitivo. So, I'm considering el Norte as a better option. My concern is I've heard it's not as picturesque as the Primitivo. Can you compare the two?
I did Ingles to Finsterre twice and loved it. So few people between Ferrol and Santiago. I loved how I could walk for hours in solitude. You mentioned el Norte as being "touristy." Did you find a lot of people on el Norte or just that touristy vibe when you came into a town?
Excellent Norte description!Hi Susan
I have a couple of 'it depends' for you..
Yes, the Norte is more touristy - in the tourist season. So it depends when you are planning to go. And actually when I've been on the north coast in July, August and September I never felt it was overpowering. There are quite a lot of people, but that's because it's a lovely place to be. Also, while the coast from San Seb to Santander has towns with holiday apartment complexes and caravan sites, the last coastal section of the Norte is a more protected coastline and the tourism is more dispersed and generally just holiday homes and rentals.
The Norte has hilly and flat parts. It is more than twice as long as the Primitivo. So it depends which section you are are planning to walk.
If we say the Primitivo takes about 2 weeks. And we look for an equivalent for the final part of the Norte, finishing in Santiago, then Aviles is the obvious big town to aim for. Or perhaps taking a bus from there to be a couple of stages closer to Santiago, say, Soto de Luina or Cadavedo.
I had equally delightful experiences walking both of these. That Norte section has both beautiful coastline (and swimming opportunities in the warmer months) as well as having pretty countryside in the hinterland after Ribadeo. I'd say that Norte section is flatter than the Primitivo but has more road walking - on very quiet small roads, similar to the small ones you will have walked on the Ingles, particularly Betanzos-Sigueiro.
That final norte 2 weeks is definitely not a second-best compromise choice - it has some equally wonderful walking and delights, including the pocket cathedral at Mondonedo and the awesome Sobrado dos Monxes.
Cheers, tom
Hi, I did the full norte last year, it was busy around san Sebastian, & santander, but when you pass these places, it was lovely & quiet, with stunning scenery, there were days that I only saw a handful of other pilgrims...I have long wanted to walk the Primitivo and plan to go this summer with a friend. However, her knees aren't in the best shape and I'm concerned about the steep incline and declines of the Primitivo. So, I'm considering el Norte as a better option. My concern is I've heard it's not as picturesque as the Primitivo. Can you compare the two?
I did Ingles to Finsterre twice and loved it. So few people between Ferrol and Santiago. I loved how I could walk for hours in solitude. You mentioned el Norte as being "touristy." Did you find a lot of people on el Norte or just that touristy vibe when you came into a town?
knee supports and sticks really help!I walked from Bayonne to Santander last autumn with a bad knee. There is a lot of tarmac with the possibility of taking the coastal paths, however, these are very steep. The 'up' was not so bad but the 'downs are quite something! The worst is the occasional concrete roads! Having said that, I wore a knee support at all times and I would say that sticks are a must! It is a truly beautiful route.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?