Bachibouzouk
Active Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Voie de Soulac, Frances, De La Plata, Sureste/Levante, Manchego, Ruta del Argar.
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Not a bad idea, but I would advice to have a map/tracking app on your phone to see if you are veering "off-track". My guide starts with Burgos, but otherwise it contains what you need re Casa rurales, markers, bars/cafes, etc.Is there a reason why you want to go first to Burgos and then back to Covarrubias? Going into Burgos from Mercerreyes (on the Lana) and then turning around and going back out to Cubillo de César (on the San Olav) will have you on the same 12 km via verde between Burgos and Modubar de la Emparedada. My suggestion would be to choose to walk the Lana from Santo Domingo or to go to Covarrubias from Santo Domingo and then walk the San Olav “backwards.” This will probably give you the days you need without really cutting anything.
I am hoping to walk the Lana in a few months and had thought I would do something like this:
Santo Domingo de Silos to Covarrubias (I am going to visit the monastery of San Pedro de Arlanza along the way, to make it about a 26 k day, but without the detour it’s about 16 or 17).
Covarrubias to visit the church at Quintanilla de las Viñas and then on to Modubar de San Cibrián. (33). Or you could make it shorter by stopping in Cubillos de César.
Then into Burgos (either 19 or 33, approximately) depending on where you sleep the night after Covarrubias.
Not sure I’m understanding correctly, but it does seem to me like your original plan has an unnecessary out and back. I have walked the San Olav, but not the Lana from Covarrubias, but looking at the map, it seems to me that the San Olav offers more in the way of both scenery and sights.
Do you know if Cas Rural Roblejimeno will take individual pilgrims for one night? (Many casas seem to prefer renting the whole house for multiple nights.)
Quintanarraya: consider continuing to Huerta de Rey instead, which is a pretty large town. Quintanarraya has nowhere to buy food and I recently heard the only bar has closed.
/BP
Just a reminder that it is closed on Mondays.Am hoping to get out to Clunia
I had no problems reserving beds for myself on San Olav. There are no albergues on this route, only Casa rurales, and i got myself rooms with proper baths. Since there are no tiendas, it is necessary to book ahead, so that food (dinner etc.) can be purchased/prepared (shopping by the hosts in places with tiendas). I could also discuss what kind of food I would like to haveDo you know if Cas Rural Roblejimeno will take individual pilgrims for one night? (Many casas seem to prefer renting the whole house for multiple nights.)
The hostess there is a very nice, talkative... woman. No English, but we had a nice, shared meal and conversation. Great room.Do you know if Cas Rural Roblejimeno will take individual pilgrims for one night? (Many casas seem to prefer renting the whole house for multiple nights.)
Another tidbit: When I walked the San Olav I kept writing recordings as well as photos the whole way, because (as a Norwegian), i was intending on writing the first guide for it.One other tidbit, there is a very nice Casa Rural in Modúbar de San Cibrián (not whole house rental, just rooms), where Reb and I stayed when we walked the San Olav ”backwards” a few years ago.
I’ve been thinking about these stages, too, and one thing that jumps out at me is that the ruins in Clunia do not open till 10 am. As it is only 3-4 km from Quintanarraya, that would make for kind of a late day.Day 6: Quintanarraya to Santo Domingo de Silos via the ruins at Clunia (30kms?) - overnight in Monastery.
Is what you call 'the gorge' the Desfiladero de la Yecla? Am assuming it is.
Day 10: Modubar de Cibrian to Mambrillas de Lara (28 kms) - overnight at Casa Rural Rincon de Alfoz.
Day 9: Covarrubias to Mambrillas de Lara (14kms) - overnight Casa Rincon de Alfoz.
—Yes, I am referring to the Desfiladero de la Yecla. I don’t know if you use wikiloc, but this circle route shows that the distance from the turnoff from the Lana at Peñacoba to Santo Domingo is about 8 km, while the route straight into Santo Domingo from that point is about 4.5 kms. The wikiloc track shows lots of pictures, too, in case you wanted to get an idea about what’s involved.
I assume you’ve seen the references to the visigothic church at Quintanilla de las Viñas. IMHO, a visit to the interior is a 5-star idea. I think it’s less than a km from the town, but you have to go out and back if I remember right. It may be problematic for you because it’s another one that’s closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.
Just throwing out another option, which would avoid going out to the Ermita of San Olav. You can go straight from Covarrubias to the church at Quintanilla and then on to either Cubilo de César (about 16 from Covarrubias via the church) or Modúbar de San Ciprián (about 33 from Covarrubias via the church). I am not trying to discourage you, and you may really want to visit this church, but it was not my cup of tea and I would not make an effort to walk there again. You can see the route direct from Covarrubias to the church here. At the church you would be back on the San Olav and can continue to either of those two places I mentioned above.
Lots of choices!
I have only seen photos but it looks interesting
Hi, Bachibouzouk, I’ve started a different thread to ask some more specific questions about Tiermes.Day 3: Retortillo de Soria to Tarancuena via GR86 and ruins at Tiermes (?? kms) - overnight Casa Rural Los Arrenes.
Hi, Bachibouzouk, I’ve started a different thread to ask some more specific questions about Tiermes.
Am I right that this looks to be about a 38 km day?
I think that the gorge is between Tarancueña and Caracena.So this means that the route from Losana to Tarancueña would not be walked by those going straight from Retortillo to Tiermes — not sure if that’s a big part of the gorge or not.
That is 21 kms according to this wikiloc track.
Doesn't that Wikilok track show Retortillo-Losana-Tiermes as 21 km?Retortillo - Losana - Tiermes (33). Night in hotel in Tiermes
I am a bit confused about GR86. My 38 kms estimate was based on the assumption that the walk went from Retortillo to Tarancueña and then on to Tiermes. But that is not what you will do, you will take the GR 86 and at Losana keep going to Tiermes. You wouldn’t get to Tarancueña until after visiting Tiermes.
The route that I think you are describing, Bachibouzouk, does not follow Maggie’s route at Losana (where she turns off to Taracueña) but rather you would continue on to Tiermes. That is 21 kms according to this wikiloc track.
The absolutelly most relaxing way to do this might be
1. Retortillo - Losana - Tiermes (33). Night in hotel in Tiermes
2. Tiermes - Taracueña (either directly or backtracking on the GR 86 to Losana and then turning off to Taracueña).
Option one Tiermes to Losana on GR 86 (about 11) PLUS Losana to Taracueña on Maggie’s route (about 6 km).
Option two — Tiermes direct to Tarancueña (about 11 on Soria minor road).
I think that the gorge is between Tarancueña and Caracena.
Not the first or last time I mess up on distances. Thanks so much for correcting me, and I did correct my initial comment. I THINK that I was probably thinking about what the approximate day would be from Retortillo to Losana to Tiermes and then on to Tarancueña, via the road and not via the backtracking to Losana and then on to Tarancueña from there. That looks like it’s in the low 30s range total.Typo here? 21kms rather than 33kms? On the very slim chance that someone else refers back to this thread in the future!
Now you are putting a cat amongst us pigeons!
BP, are you headed back to the Lana or the Requena this year?I haven't studied the alternatives in the area so I can barely follow the discussion... All I know is, as @C clearly points out, that the gorge (one of many?!) is between Tarancueña and Caracena, and the road between Retortillo and Tarancueña is about 8 kms.
BP, are you headed back to the Lana or the Requena this year?
Or I might just walk the San Olav backward from Covarubbias to Burgos over three days.
To me it makes more sense to meander after Santo Domingo de Silos and not bscktracking once you get to Burgos. This, exactly:there a reason why you want to go first to Burgos and then back to Covarrubias?
Absolutely do not miss Santa Maria de Lara. It's super special, even if it's not open and you can't get inside (my misfortune...). And it's not far off route.Or:
Day 6: Quintanarraya - Clunia - Huerta de Rey (10-15kms?) - overnight in Hostal Casa Rural La Tejera.
Day 7: Huerta de Rey - Desfiladero de la Yecla - Santo Domingo de Silos (20kms?) - p.m. and overnight in Monastery.
Day 8: a.m. in Santo Domingo de Silos to Covarrubias (17kms) - overnight Hotel Dona Sancha.
Day 9: Covarrubias to Mambrillas de Lara (14kms) - overnight Casa Rincon de Alfoz.
Day 10: Mambrillas de Lara to Modular De San Cibrian (28 kms) - overnight at Casa Rural La Cerca.
Day 11: Modular de San Cibrian to Burgos (20kms) - overnight albergue.
Day 12: Bus/train to Madrid - overnight in Madrid.
Yes. If you weren't going to stay in Mambrillas, that's the way to go. You just miss the ugly chapel, is all. But if you do that, make sure to take the Left fork at the top of the hill above Covarrubias. Then when you meet the road go straight towards Quintanilla.You can go straight from Covarrubias to the church at Quintanilla and then on to either Cubilo de César (about 16 from Covarrubias via the church) or Modúbar de San Ciprián (about 33 from Covarrubias via the church).
Yes, she was so kind. She met me at her place and handed me over to my host for the night. I believe it was at Pensión Casa Julita in Villaespasa, another pueblo nearby. He drove me there and dropped me off on the Camino again the next morning . Wonderful.When @VNwalking walked the San Olav, Ana’s house was full, but Ana found something for VN not too far away. Maybe she will pop onto this thread and remind us how it went.
You might turn out to like it, who knows?This just makes me want to see it in person!
OMG!combo Baztán - Viejo - Invierno
Just finding this thread now, so I'm sorry to be popping in with feedback about part of the convo you've all moved past.
I am curious if you will be using GPS tracks en route. For me, the only way to figure out some of these areas of intersecting routes was to put many tracks onto Google Earth, and study them for efficient combinations. Then I can take some of the tracks with me on my phone, so the options will be clear (and simpler) when I need to decide.I'm considering all submissions with the intention of making a final decision on a daily basis in situ.
I am curious if you will be using GPS tracks en route.
I’ve cobbled together several wikiloc tracks to come up with a route that goes from Santo Domingo via Sad Hill to San Pedro de Arlanza and then back to Covarrubias. Total about 26 km plus the visit. It took a bit of work because there is a desfiladero along the river near San Pedro that I’ve been advised to avoid. I’ll put out the tracks here with my ideas about which part of each track to use to make the full walk (if I knew how to edit tracks, I would do that myself, but this way works too).Very interested in your suggestion of Santo Domingo de Silos-Sad Hill Cemetery-Contreras-San Pedro de Arlanza (GR82?). Ironically Sad Hill Cemetery was one of the suggestions on the Virtual Ruta de la Lana that didn't interest me that much, but if it's a great walk ....
For deep in the weeds, here is a screenshot of some optionsif you want to get in the weeds with this
For deep in the weeds, here is a screenshot of some options
Riofrio de Llano, miraculously, had a bar that was open. Usually only open in July and August and weekends the rest of the year.
You could stay in Tiermes and rejoin the Camino at Caracena but you'd miss out on the canyon between Taracueña and Caracena.
I got to San Esteban de Gormaz later than expected and checked into Hostal Moreno, which may now be called Hostal Bigotes
I wonder if the drought is as obvious and as destructive as it has been in these early stages. In the place where I’m staying in Alcala, the owner tells us that no one in town, not even the “más mayores” can remember a year with a total crop failure like this year. They’ve given up on the wheat and are now only hoping that there will be rain to keep the trees alive. The olives seem to be surviving but we’ve seen a lot of dead almond trees.
That is a tough choice. But you convinced me that Tiermes is worth a visit. Do you have any photos to share of these visits: Tiermes, romanesque church in Carab
That is a tough choice. But you convinced me that Tiermes is worth a visit.
Don-Key-Jote
Laurie...hope you get there!The Romanesque church at Carabias is well worth the detour.
So glad you made it, @Bachibouzouk! Definitely sounds worth the extra night...Roman ruins at Tiermes
Oh! Yes, please.thirty or forty vultures
I’m new to this thread so hope I don’t repeat what’s already been discussed.
Casa Rural Rio Dulce in Aragosa is every bit as good as Alan Sykes described it. It’s a gem, and it cuts off a few km compared with starting in Mandayona.
Hotel Los Arenes in Tarancueña is closed and no accommodation is available in Caraceña, so it’s now a 43km stage from Retortillo de Soria to San Esteban de Gormaz. I’ll be looking at taxi options when I get to R de S tomorrow. 43km is just too far for this body.
That's literally a marathon plus change.43km is just too far for this 80+ body.
I’m new to this thread so hope I don’t repeat what’s already been discussed.
Casa Rural Rio Dulce in Aragosa is every bit as good as Alan Sykes described it. It’s a gem, and it cuts off a few km compared with starting in Mandayona.
Hotel Los Arenes in Tarancueña is closed and no accommodation is available in Caraceña, so it’s now a 43km stage from Retortillo de Soria to San Esteban de Gormaz. I’ll be looking at taxi options when I get to R de S tomorrow. 43km is just too far for this 80+ body.
I am so glad it worked out for you to see the Yecla Gorge. It was one of our most loved deviations from the Camino Frances and is still a vivid memory.The Desfiladero is another spectacular, if much shorter than imagined, element of the day's walk. On a suspended gangway above the Yecla stream you make your way through the gorge. At times it is so narrow that you can touch both sides of the gorge simultaneously. By this stage of the walk nobody will have overpacked, which is just as well as your rucksack will scrape the sides and overhangs anyway.
I am so glad it worked out for you to see the Yecla Gorge. It was one of our most loved deviations from the Camino Frances and is still a vivid memory.
Thanks for these detailed updates @Bachibouzouk. I’m sure they’ll be extremely helpful, and I will study them carefully when we get closer. Today is a rest day in Cuenca. I don’t think I have taken a rest day on a Camino in at least 15 years, but this place merits one, I think. Lots of paths up and down. Lots of beautiful scenery. Every day there seems to be a chance of rain, but it never materializes.
I also thought the albergue in Mecerreyes was superb! Built for so many people... I guess Mecerreyes is also on the Camino del Cid?
Question for you. (I’m sure there will be more) — from Peñacoba to the gorge, did you take the road? We started following an off-road wikiloc track , but the lines went straight at a certain point (maybe GPS stopped recording), so we had to just walk in the direction of the gorge(which we could see), being careful to stay far from the sheer cliff on our left. We were never in any danger but did wonder if we would have to turn back. Thanks to @C clearly’s good contour-line-reading skills and our decision to walk towards a transmission line, we made it fine.Bar (closed but showed signs of having recently been open - stacked crates of empty beer bottles outside) and fuente in Peñacoba
This is different than what we did but a good option methinks. The only thing I would suggest for anyone else going there is that there is a good off-road trail from the monastery into Covarrubias that is very pleasant. And no longer than the road option.In the morning I legged it out to the ruins of the monastery of San Pedro de Arlanza, leaving my rucksack at the hostal. It's 8km on the road, so 16km out and back
Rodrigo, María Angeles’ son, has moved back to Caracena. He is a chef and the restaurant/bar is now open every day but Wednesday. He is also renovating a casa rural and will rent rooms to pilgrims even while the renovations are going on. It was a fine place to stay. And the meal, though pricey, was surely one of the best of the camino.In Caracena I got lucky for the first time. The bar was closed but miraculously I arrived just as the owner Maria Angels was taking deliveries and opened up for a couple of quick beers and a 'bocadillo'.
Question for you. (I’m sure there will be more) — from Peñacoba to the gorge, did you take the road?
This is different than what we did but a good option methinks. The only thing I would suggest for anyone else going there is that there is a good off-road trail from the monastery into Covarrubias that is very pleasant. And no longer than the road option.
Peregrinación del Buen Conde Covarrubias - San Pedro de Arlanza
Peregrinación del Buen Conde Covarrubias - San Pedro de Arlanza Hiking trail in Covarrubias, Castilla y León (España). Download its GPS track and follow the itinerary on a map. Ruta a pie o peregrinaje desde Covarrubias al monasterio de san Pedro de Arlanza "Ruta del buen conde" para mis amigos...www.wikiloc.com
And this track takes you to within spitting distance of the 21C Ermita de San Olav. I saw it from a distance but had already been there once and was not chomping at the bit to see it again.
Rodrigo, María Angeles’ son, has moved back to Caracena. He is a chef and the restaurant/bar is now open every day but Wednesday. He is also renovating a casa rural and will rent rooms to pilgrims even while the renovations are going on. It was a fine place to stay. And the meal, though pricey, was surely one of the best of the camino.
And btw, the best view of the Caracena castle is from about a half Km up on the path beyond the castle, where you can see the gorge opening up next to the castle.
Caracena is a very special and delicious place to stay.
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