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North from Foz is good coastal walking again. A sign in the town said its name came from the Latin Faucem, meaning mouth (of the river) - there was some discussion here about whether it was Latin, Celtic, Norse or Galega.
I encountered the doubtless expensive paving that comes with the coastal path in places, and rather agree with @Tia Valeria that it's not much good, sometimes not very even, very like crazy paving in suburban patios, and partly of a slate-like material that I suspect may be very slippery if it ever rains again (and the forecast says normal service will resume on Friday or Saturday).
I liked the tiny peninsula of San Cibrao, with its tiny chapel, which claimed bits dating from the 11th century (but which was closed, claro), right by the fishing port. And the stories about the maruxaina, the local mermaid who is tried every August as they're never quite sure whether she's a malicious siren or benevolent, presumably depending on how many fishermen drowned the previous year.
And then a bus to Viveiro, where I found a nice b&b across the bay in Covas, almost as far north as it is possible to stay in Spain.
Have a great walk. If you have not already found it our blog about the Camino do Mar-Camino Inglés is here at Camino 2015 where there is additional info and photos. If you want any details of accomodation then feel free to PM usAlan, thank you for your detailed posts on your walk! I'm hoping to spend some time on this route over the summer, and the write-ups by you and Tia Valeria have been really helpful.
Hi, Tia, I was walking last summer when you posted your blog, so this is my first glimpse. Lots of beautiful pictures and helpful information. Was the visit to Mondonedo a detour you planned or is it on the Ruta deal Mar?Have a great walk. If you have not already found it our blog about the Camino do Mar-Camino Inglés is here at Camino 2015 where there is additional info and photos. If you want any details of accomodation then feel free to PM us
Buen Camino
@TerryB and @Tia Valeria
Have a great walk. If you have not already found it our blog about the Camino do Mar-Camino Inglés is here at Camino 2015 where there is additional info and photos.
@TerryB and @Tia Valeria
There are 2 Mondoñedos so it is not the same place @peregrina2000 . We walked through San Martiño de Mondoñedo, which predates the 'new' cathedral at the Mondoñedo on the Norte. Access to the older,Romanesque, cathedral is in the information office round the back of the building.And a postscript for anyone else looking at this route -- I see there's a good GPS track on wikiloc, which shows the route quite clearly.
http://es.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=3283494
And it also answers my question about Mondonedo.I have walked through it on the Norte but hadn't bothered to figure out where it was in relationship to the coast. The church was closed when I was there, unfortunately, and it looks like I really missed something!
Thanks for the clarification, Tia. I see that San Martino is about 5 km from the center of Foz. What a beautiful place. And yes, though you can't see it, the wikiloc track makes a big loop around the Ria de Foz and then heads through San Martino and then back up to Foz. So it is right on the Ruta. This looks like a great alternative to the Norte from Ribadeo! Just what I need, another Camino on my wish list.Not the same place @peregrina2000 . We walked through San Martiño de Mondoñedo, which predates the 'new' cathedral at the Mondoñedo on the Norte. Access to the older,Romanesque, cathedral is in the information office round the back of the building.
I am not sure how good the GPS track is - I cannot view it!, but we superimposed the Lugo Amigos outlines onto the Mapas Militar, which worked well.
Maybe we need to look at our maps and make a list of places and some of the turnings. Alan seems from his description to have continued straight to Foz but our route took us into San Martiño de Mondoñedo and then turned down to Foz itself.
@alansykes could you tell me why you caught a bus into Viveiro rather than walking? Was this due to the terrain or lack of time?
I have been studying the route as best I can from the Internet and am thinking that I might make the following stages. Any thoughts will be most appreciated
Ribadeo - Foz (25 km)
Foz - San Cibrao (22 km)
San Cibrao - Covas (18.5 km)
Covas - Ortigueira (30 km)
Ortigueira - Cedeira (25 km)
Cedeira - Xubia / Ferrol (26 / 30 km)
Hi there,Thanks so much @alansykes for this extremely useful information. I had been guesstimating the distances from google maps. Could you share your wikiloc routes - they would be a very helpful reference point?
I feel I am getting to know the area a bit now (via my iPad) and am feeling a bit more confident about this section.
The trouble is, I have recently become Facebook friends with John Noble who has written many guidebooks for lonely planet (and coincidently lives in my neighbouring village only 3 km away - we are due to meet up after his current travels). Being friends with him is not the trouble, but that he is currently travelling in the area of the Ruta do Mar and keeps posting magnificent photos of sites he has visited (including San Andrés de Teixido) which are tempting me to divert to take in Estaca de Bares (the most northerly tip of Spain) and "Banco mas bonito del mundo" - the most beautiful bench in the world - which is causing havoc with my stage from Covas to Cuiña. On the day, it will all be weather and visibility dependant.
Many thanks to you and to @Tia Valeria for taking the time to post on this thread.
Maggie
I think you had the better walk - I was on or near the main road from A Espiñera all the way to the outskirts of Foz. Foz to Fazuoro and on the next day was much better, coastal path most of the way to San Cibrao, with a pleasant swim in a bay near Burela (I liked Burela, where I had a snack lunch in a friendly bar where the owner had spent 5 years working in Liverpool, and had an amazing Galician-Scouse accent when trying out her English on me).I see that you stayed on the N642 while we turned left and went through A Espineira, Vilaronte and Seoane to San Martiño de Mondoñedo. Did you find the side road from Fazouro or did you do what we did and follow the main road? I see one of the other Wikilocs pages shows the line we took through Nois.
We found the scenery was mostly very good.
We walk short days and were aware that the distance in some places was too far between accommodation options. With no albergues we needed to be sure of a bed and also food in the latter part. The FEVE and taxis made it possible for us personally, others who walk longer distances daily did not need them. Be aware that there is no accommodation, nor food in some areas and we chose to pre-book as we were walking 'out of season' in May.
We loved Viveiro and stayed in a pension just near the FEVE for 3 nights just to look around.
We walked about 15kms per day which meant that we had time to visit places too. Partly why we then took a taxi to get to our booked accommodation (maybe 5kms or so)Hi Tia Valeria,
thanks for that very helpful hint to make sure to always have some food with us.
what do you mean, when you say you walked short days? how many kms usually?
We plan with about 20-30km per day, depending of course on the places to stay the nights.
Kind regards,
sansebastienne
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