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San Salvador and Primitivo in September/October

docdiamond

New Member
Time of past OR future Camino
summer 2023
I was originally wanting to walk the Frances in September/October, but became concerned about the large number of pilgrims on the Frances. So, I started looking at the San Salvador from Leon, and then the Primitivo to Santiago. But it sounds like the San Salvador can be very cold in September/October. I really have two questions for you. What is the weather like in September/October, and does it look like the number of pilgrims on these routes will be fairly low? Thanks in advance for your advice for this first time pilgrim.
 
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We did the Salvador/Primativo in Sept. 2019. Weather was mixed. Sometimes sunny, but often storm clouds and some spitting rain. But not dangerously cold. The Primitivo was just flat rainy (blowing horizontal mist the day of we crossed the hospitals part of the route). But again, not dangerously cold, even across the hospitals section. We later repeted the Primitivo in June. Hotter, and more humid, but less rain over all I think (and clear on the day of the hospitals).
YMMV.

We found there was always enough accomodations. Rarely saw anyone on the actual route--only at the albergues.

Pictures (1) Hospitals section in blowing mist; (2) exact same location sun (June); (3) top of the Salvador in mixed weather (note the clouds that eventually spit a bit of rain on us).

IMG_1508 Nery on Hospital Route.jpgDSC05418 On Top Hospitals Route.jpg


DSC04694 Nery at the Pass.jpg
 
I walked that combination starting on about 20 October last year. It’s a great route, physically challenging in parts but not every day. It was fairly cold at times with the route going over 1200m but walking warms you up! I was lucky and only had rain on one day but of course at that time of year there could have been more. My opinion is that you should just go for it and walk a couple of shorter days if there is heavier rain. Always be positive and optimistic and deal with any issues that arise. I have walked 11 Caminos totalling over 8000km and it has worked for me….
 
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Doc...
First, ask yourself...why are you walking? If you're looking for experiences that have been described in the vast majority of books/movies/blogs, quite a few of those are from the Frances. If you're dreaming of the Meseta, the Cruz de Ferro, the Knight at Manjaran, or O Cerebrio...the Salvador/Primitivo is not that route.

Second, what does "crowded" means to you? If you're looking for a Pacific Coast Trail level of isolation, then yes, the Frances is "crowded."

Third, do you hike/sleep cold, or hot? We've heard from at least one peregrina who had to abandon her Primitivo three days in, because she was just too cold and couldn't afford new kit. We've heard from others who had to take extra rest days and abandon their goals on any Camino because there was a heat wave.
You have to know how *you* hike and sleep...and be prepared to make changes.

I say this as someone who did walk the infamous last 114 of the Frances, and hopes to hike the Primitivo in mid September. But I would almost always suggest doing the Frances first.
 
Doc...
First, ask yourself...why are you walking? If you're looking for experiences that have been described in the vast majority of books/movies/blogs, quite a few of those are from the Frances. If you're dreaming of the Meseta, the Cruz de Ferro, the Knight at Manjaran, or O Cerebrio...the Salvador/Primitivo is not that route.

Second, what does "crowded" means to you? If you're looking for a Pacific Coast Trail level of isolation, then yes, the Frances is "crowded."

Third, do you hike/sleep cold, or hot? We've heard from at least one peregrina who had to abandon her Primitivo three days in, because she was just too cold and couldn't afford new kit. We've heard from others who had to take extra rest days and abandon their goals on any Camino because there was a heat wave.
You have to know how *you* hike and sleep...and be prepared to make changes.

I say this as someone who did walk the infamous last 114 of the Frances, and hopes to hike the Primitivo in mid September. But I would almost always suggest doing the Frances first.
Yes, dbier! I can't get the Frances out of my mind. Still thinking about it. Thanks for the advice.
 
Yes, dbier! I can't get the Frances out of my mind. Still thinking about it. Thanks for the advice.
Then I would walk the Frances first and don't let the scare mongering about crowds deter you. The Frances will not be too crowded in late September and October.

You can always come back to the San Salvador and Primitivo.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
I should be up there mid to late September, depending on how quickly i move across from Pamplona to Leon (hopefully a fortnight or so).

My route is a bit all over the place once I get that far. Hoping to do Mansilla de las Mulas to Cabanillas on Day 1, then Poladura de la Tercia on Day 2, Benduenos on Day 3 and Oviedo on Day 4. Then maybe take a rest day in Oviedo before I slam across Primitivo. Ideally i want to be in Santiago by end of September and ideally out to Muxia (and maybe back).
 
Well, if I'm lucky enough to get to go, perhaps you might wave as you go past me on the Primitivo. Planning to leave Oviedo after seeing the Sudarium. God willing, I hope to arrive in Santiago the night of the 27th.
 
Wave, say hi, if I find people to talk to I often do for a while. When i'm in walking mode, I just walk. :) Generally for 12 hours a day. I expect very few to be on the Salvador when i hit it, but Primitivo will still have a few.
 
Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

€46,-
Well, if I'm lucky enough to get to go, perhaps you might wave as you go past me on the Primitivo. Planning to leave Oviedo after seeing the Sudarium. God willing, I hope to arrive in Santiago the night of the 27th.
Is the Sudarium going to be on display? You normally can't see it.
 
https://www.ncregister.com/blog/the-sudarium-of-oviedo-the-other-shroud-of-jesus said:
is displayed for the public in Oviedo three times each year: on Good Friday, on the Feast of the Triumph of the Cross (Sept. 14), and on the octave of the feast (Sept. 21).

Guess that means if you are in Oviedo in September you could see it.
 

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