September 2012 on the Ingles

[Deleted member 3000]

The only credential available at the Oficina de Turismo is a xerox sheet with a space for your name and some boxes for sellos. If you want a pretty one, bring it with you. We were directed eight blocks to the cathedral for on official credential, but it was unattended, then surreptitiously closed at 1300!

The first 11 km is flat but scenic. The tourist office could improve its map by putting the Camino on it.

The Neda albergue is large and nice. There is a nearby supermarket for self-catering, but the albergue kitchen is not well equipped.

 

[sillydoll]

"surreptitiously"

Such a strange way to describe the closing of a cathedral at lunch time!
Why would a cathedral close in clandestine or stealthy manner? It conjures images of priests and nuns sneaking out of the back door just as they see a pilgrim heading their way!!

 

[Deleted member 3000]

It conjures images of priests and nuns sneaking out of the back door just as they see a pilgrim heading their way!!

We arrived just before the posted 1300 closing time, walked around inside the church testing every door and saying hola at every opportunity. We then exited the other church door and walked around the church. We sat down for five minutes to prepare our feet for walking, then went to the formerly open door of the church for one last check for a person to issue a regular credential.

All the church doors were now locked!!

Back in Santiago after the Camino Ingles, and my overall impression is that it is a pleasant camino. It has several spots of terrain that are much more demanding than the Camino Portugues, and one long day that needs a stopping place.

We had the CSJ guide, which saved us several wrong turns. However, comparing the intersections two places with the written description did not resolve conflicts. In one case it led to a two hour diversion onto fire trails in a eucalyptus forest. We kept taking the turns that headed us in the right direction, and ended up almost next to the bar at Visono! A dab of yellow paint at the confusing intersection would be useful.

After that confusion, I surveyed the official wayposts with tile shells. It turns out that the rays of the shell point the way. That is a well-kept secret that should be publicized. I suspect it would have substitued for yellow paint at our big mistake.

The weather has been fine, which can change for the next pilgrim, of course, but the Ingles is a ¨keeper¨ for a short camino, if you are prepared for three major climbs, a long day, and ascertain that the posted stages are the best stages for you. Fene is underemphasized, and is a good alternative to Neda, which has a great albergue regardless. Thanks for Johnny Walker´s work.

If you compare the Mundicamino map with the CSJ description, they do not go the same place! Mundicamino has most of the day to the west of the autopista, which it is not. The Mundicamino information may not be of much use, so be careful in using it for planning. They do not provide a description of the route, so I do not know where they get it. The CSJ has had boots on the ground. The only evidence of the new route on the last day is that the wayposts are in fresh dirt.

Maps would be useful on this camino, but I have scoured the book and magazine stores of Santiago, and there are no walking maps for Spain. Perhaps mail order maps are available on the internet from Michelin, or someone.

 

[judydaisy]

Got back on Sunday after a brilliant time on the English route . Met really great people from the USA, UK and the Faroe Islands! Great weather, great accommodation - Antonio and family at Meson Novo were brilliant. Not sure if it was just us but we felt that the waymarking was excellent but not too sure about the distances on Day 1 (Ferrol - Puentedeume) and on the day to Sigueiro. They seemed to be way longer than the guide suggests but having no pedometer or similar it was impossible to tell. The only other thing is to suggest to the town authorities in Sigueiro that they should get a by-pass. The traffic is dire - all night! Santiago as wonderful as ever. If anyone wants a recommendation for a place to stay, try Hostal Fornos in Praza Galicia. It's about a 6 minute walk from the Cathedral.
Now that we're back to the cold and gloom of a UK autumn :cry: we can't wait to start planning the next trip...
Judy

 

[dreemr]

I agree about Meson do Novo, I stayed there 2 nights and the whole family treated me like a King. It's definately worth a stop on this route and the rooms are very nice.
I didn't have trouble with the waymarking either, I had read somewhere that the rays did point in the correct direction. The only problem I did have was leaving Betanzos I missed a turn but an older couple that I said hola to was watching me and whistled at me and pointed the correct way.
I did find this route more challenging than I was expecting but I survived.

Bill

 

[Al the optimist]

I agree with you Judy. I did not find Sigueiro quite either!
Bill. Was that the right turn up the hill going out of Betzanos? (The one where if you miss it there is a main road after another 100 metres? When I was there it would have been better to walk up the hill on the right hand side as I seem to remember there was only a small faint arrow on the road which you could not see from the other side. You then went to Finisterra and Muxia didn't you? Did you find these easier after the Ingles?
allan

 

[dreemr]

Allan, the turn I missed was a left, right after crossing a main road then only going about 20 meters and looking for a house with the number 36(?) on it. The number was partially scratched off, there was a brass tile in the road but one would have already made the turn to see it and as I didn't see it I continued straight, and that was when my guardian angel whistled at me.
The walk to Muxia and Finnisterre was equally difficult for me, I think because of my physical capabilities but I do think it was much more scenic and enjoyable, even though I got lost in a forest.
As far as Seguiero, I stayed at the San Vicente which was quiet and nice albeit a little expensive (50 euros). JW is going to have to use his charm and knack of persuasion to try to get them to lower their rates . One problem I did have were with the directions in the guide. While it does mention the hotel it does not give directions to it, which turned out to be right in it's backyard.
Another thing I found ironic was how many Brits were walking the Ingles route, go figure .
Bill

 

[judydaisy]

Hi Bill. We looked at San Vicente and thought it was a bit steep too at 50 euro so we opted for Hostal Miras in Sigueiro. Food was fine but the rooms were really quite basic and I didn't wear my glasses in the bathroom - didn't want to see the inside of the shower curtain! I think if I were to do this route again I would stay at either San Vicente or in a casa rural; I believe there are a few more springing up on this route.
Judy

 

[Al the optimist]

Sorry Bill I was confused and thinking of Puentedueme. I also nearly missed it as a car was parked in front of it! The house was number 28 (not 38 as per JW's guide). I told you that in a pm on the 4th of September remember? I also told JW when I met him in Santiago.
I never met a Brit on the Ingles either!
I agree Judy - the Miras is definitely a miss!
Buen caminos

 

[andy.d]

This may be a minority opinion, but I like the Miras in Siguero! The rooms are basic and the bathrooms shared, but it is inexpensive and I ate the best fish supper I have ever had in the comedor there (on what was one of those magical Camino evenings of deep connection with other pilgrims).

There were also some Spanish pilgrims using the sports centre there as an albergue, which is another option. They gave good reports of it,

Andy

 

[judydaisy]

Absolutely agree about the food. The fish was wonderful. It was just the rooms. It was not uncomfortable, the beds were ok. It was just that the whole place was in dire nee d of a lick of paint to brighten it up. To my mind it looked tired and there was a definite smell of stale fly spray or ???? in our room, what the Spanish would call mugre :| I think. For cost, I have no gripes really. I stayed in the albergue in Zubiri a few years ago and that really was the pits!
Judy

 

[Deleted member 3000]

A double at Miras was about the same as two singles, but had a sink and shower in one corner if you can take the resulting splash and humidity. The toilets were still down the hallway. It beat a typical albergue!

 

[judydaisy]

Lucky you. We had a double. It had no shower but it did have a handbasin with cold water only...
Judy

 

[Al the optimist]

I was on my own in the Miras so had a single room. The room was next to a noisy road and it too had only one tap washbasin with cold water only, Anyone understand the reasoning? The bathroom didn't have a seat on the toilet either and the public one downstairs was a squat toilet.