Shikoku 88 temple pilgrimage - New York Times article

[Bradypus]

The New York Times has just published an article about the Shikoku 88 temple pilgrimage on its website. With many photographs. I think it gives a very good flavour of the journey. @Tassie Kaz - there is a photo of mikans

88 Temples, 750 Miles, Untold Gifts: Japan’s Shikoku Pilgrimage

A famed route on the smallest of Japan’s four main islands offers breathtaking views and an array of lessons on history, culture and generosity.

www.nytimes.com

 

[Tassie Kaz]

Thanks for thinking of me @Bradypus
Unfortunately you have to be a NYT subscriber to read the article past the 1st paragraph...
I'm happy knowing it's there though...

 

[Bradypus]

Unfortunately you have to be a NYT subscriber to read the article past the 1st paragraph...

I did wonder about the paywall too but I was able to read the article and I'm not a subscriber. Puzzling.

 

[jungleboy]

Here’s a gift link to the article for free access for non-subscribers:

88 Temples, 750 Miles, Untold Gifts: Japan’s Shikoku Pilgrimage

A famed route on the smallest of Japan’s four main islands offers breathtaking views and an array of lessons on history, culture and generosity.

www.nytimes.com

 

[Bradypus]

Here’s a gift link to the article for free access for non-subscribers:

That is very kind - thank you!

 

[sun is shining]

Here’s a gift link to the article for free access for non-subscribers:

88 Temples, 750 Miles, Untold Gifts: Japan’s Shikoku Pilgrimage

A famed route on the smallest of Japan’s four main islands offers breathtaking views and an array of lessons on history, culture and generosity.

www.nytimes.com

Thank you so much for sharing this article and the free access to it. The writer captures beautifully what - for me - is one of the most important aspects of modern day pilgrimage: the humbling interactions with kind local people.

 

[Tassie Kaz]

I did wonder about the paywall too but I was able to read the article and I'm not a subscriber. Puzzling.

This is what comes up as I scroll down to read the article. I only have a mobile device so perhaps thats a reason...or maybe my location?

 

[Tassie Kaz]

Here’s a gift link to the article for free access for non-subscribers:

Thanks very much Nick...greatly appreciated
Also enjoyed the Year of the Long Walk article you gifted us a few days ago...you're a !

 

[PeregrinoSteven]

Thanks so much for sharing this very interesting article! Now if you'll excuse me, I'll be tumbling down the rabbit hole of Japanese pilgrimages. ;-)

 

[Tassie Kaz]

Thanks so much for sharing this very interesting article! Now if you'll excuse me, I'll be tumbling down the rabbit hole of Japanese pilgrimages. ;-)

You'll find good company down that rabbit hole...it remains far & away my favourite of all the trails I've walked. ⛩
Gambatte!

 

[GuyA]

Thanks for sharing this article...it really hit home on a personal level... Near the end of the article the first picture below appears. The caption at the bottom of the picture reads “Patricia, a fellow pilgrim, aboard the ferry”.

In the fall 2022 a fellow pilgrim (Paulo from Brazil) and I walked the Camino Primitivo. On day 3 we met Patricia from the US and walked for a while with Patricia. She mentioned that a Japanese Film Documentary team had interviewed her earlier and was just up the road. Quickly that became a real fun conversation topic between Patricia, Paulo and myself and in Campiello the 3 of us had a sit-down interview with the Japanese film crew.

Patricia mentioned that she was going to walk the Shikoku 88 Temple of walk in 2023 and I indicated that I had the good fortune in March 2015 of walking the Kumano Kodo in Japan and had received the Dual Pilgrim designation.

In subsequent days we had some good laughs as our paths crossed about our forthcoming starring roles in the Japanese Film Documentary. Once the documentary was released Patricia was in it for 6+ minutes, Paulo 6 seconds and for me 12 seconds.

Months later...on April 8, 2023... I received the following text message and second picture below from Patricia who at that point had walked half way through the Shikoku 88 temple pilgrimage. She was taking a short break to walk the Kumano Kodo Kohechi route.

“Hello, I hope this message finds you well. I wanted to let you know I am on the Kumano Kodo Kohechi today. I’m going to be a dual Pilgrim just like you . I also wanted to let you know that you made it into the Japanese documentary on Camino Santiago."

On the morning of April 10, 2023 Patricia Wu-Murad walked out of the Minshuku she was staying at...a couple of days from Kumano Honshu Taisha where she would have received her Dual Pilgrim designation...and Patricia disappeared. Two months of intense searching organized by her family involving all levels of professional and volunteer people has not surfaced a single clue as to her disappearance. A number of online stories summarize the family efforts.

Quite revealing how such a short exposure to a fellow pilgrim while walking on a Camino can have such a long lasting personal impact. Very sad for the family and friends.

Guy

 

[Bradypus]

@GuyA Thank you for your post. I have walked the Nakahechi and Kohechi Kumano Kodo routes as well as the Shikoku circuit and I also registered as a dual pilgrim in Hongu. I have been following the story of Patricia's disappearance and the search for her on news websites but I did not make the connection with the photo of her in the NYT article.

 

[Sue127]

I had only mention the 88 temples to a friend a couple of days ago having listened on audio to Ben Nevis to Kilimanjaro. Although the Camino became a reality, I think this will remain a dream.
Edit: Wrong book, sorry (although that was interesting too). I should have said Neon Pilgrim by Lisa Dempster. Although I became annoyed with her complaining, it gave an iSight into the struggle of walking and she described the different types of accommodation fo pilgrims as used by @Bradypus.

 

[Bradypus]

I had only mention the 88 temples to a friend a couple of days ago having listened on audio to Ben Nevis to Kilimanjaro. Although the Camino became a reality, I think this will remain a dream.

I first learned about the Shikoku pilgrimage in a blog by Johnnie Walker. At the time I found it fascinating but I had no particular idea of walking the route myself. Too far away, too far removed from my previous experience, far too scary! A couple of years later my wife decided to walk the circuit and returned home full of praise and convinced that I would enjoy it too. And she was very right of course.

 

[Bernice M]

Here’s a gift link to the article for free access for non-subscribers:

88 Temples, 750 Miles, Untold Gifts: Japan’s Shikoku Pilgrimage

A famed route on the smallest of Japan’s four main islands offers breathtaking views and an array of lessons on history, culture and generosity.

www.nytimes.com

Thank you so much Jungleboy. So much on asphalt! It sounds utterly different from any Spanish camino.

 

[Bradypus]

So much on asphalt! It sounds utterly different from any Spanish camino.

It is a very different experience. There is a great deal of road walking - that does not worry me personally but others have found it hard going. The Shikoku pilgrimage remains an overtly religious act for most of its participants while the Caminos are becoming more secular in character and presentation. There are specific religious rituals for each temple visit. Perhaps the biggest difference is that there is no one destination on Shikoku - there are 88 which are all of equal significance. Repetition is a feature of the journey. Most Japanese pilgrims travel the circuit by car or bus. Although there are many Japanese pilgrims who walk the circuit that option is very much a minority choice and it is disproportionately popular amongst foreign pilgrims - many of whom have already walked a Camino.

 

[tarredon]

Just curious - none of the pictures in the article show pilgrims with backpacks. She only mentions bags once, and that's in reference to the Japanese men whose friends ferried their bags for them. Do pilgrim on the Shikoku route normally carry backpacks?

 

[Bradypus]

Do pilgrim on the Shikoku route normally carry backpacks?

Those who are walking the circuit usually do. But remember that they are the minority. I believe there is some limited and expensive luggage transport service during the main season but I did not look into that. If you are a very traditionally-minded pilgrim with a substantial budget then it is possible to walk the circuit staying only in minshuku or ryokans and carrying only your single set of pilgrim clothing and the small bag of items needed for temple rituals. Traditional inns provide a yukata for guests to wear during their stay while clothes are washed and dried overnight ready for use the next day. Not a common practice these days but I met two pilgrims walking that way.

 

[tarredon]

Thanks Bradypus. By the way, where does the pilgrim with the non-substantial budget stay while on the Shikoyu pilgrimage?

 

[tarredon]

Thanks Bradypus. By the way, where does the pilgrim with the non-substantial budget stay while on the Shikoyu pilgrimage?

 

[Bradypus]

Thanks Bradypus. By the way, where does the pilgrim with the non-substantial budget stay while on the Shikoyu pilgrimage?

A lot of different places. A few temples have free floor spaces for pilgrims. Some local people offer free or very cheap rooms in their homes. There are fairly cheap hostels in some towns and villages. Western-style business hotels can sometimes be comparable in price to Spanish hostals. A few years ago it was widely accepted that pilgrims could wild camp in certain areas or sleep in the pilgrim shelter huts - my choice for much of the journey - but that is now being discouraged. There is not a chain of albergues of the sort found the Caminos. A much more complicated mix.

 

[tarredon]

A lot of different places. A few temples have free floor spaces for pilgrims. Some local people offer free or very cheap rooms in their homes. There are fairly cheap hostels in some towns and villages. Western-style business hotels can sometimes be comparable in price to Spanish hostals. A few years ago it was widely accepted that pilgrims could wild camp in certain areas or sleep in the pilgrim shelter huts - my choice for much of the journey - but that is now being discouraged. There is not a chain of albergues of the sort found the Caminos. A much more complicated mix.

Sounds a bit like the mix of eclectic lodging we recently found on the Chemin du Piemont Pyrenees in France. Thanks!

 

[Housedog]

I'm in the planning phase for a November Shikoku Pilgrimage. To reduce the time and pounding on the pavement we are going to use inline skates - it looks like 80% is skate-able. Cost-wise my estimates will be about what you would spend on the Camino if you stayed in inexpensive single person accommodation and ate restaurant meals. In Japan most accommodation is per person so there is not much group discount. I am quite familiar with Japan and my friend's Japanese wife is a phone call away but I know this will be a much bigger cultural adventure than the Camino.

 

[grayland]

Thanks @Bradypus for updating information and interest in the Shikoku Pilgrimage.
Many of us value your personal experience with this pilgrimage. I became very interested in the Shikoku after learning and hearing about it from you and John but never really was able to quit the Spain routes.
The culture change and commercialization has made it less attractive to continue ...even on the less busy routes. Just a sense of loss due to nostalgia I would guess.

I think I recall that you posted a "diary" of your adventure. (somewhere). Can you share that with us ...if I am correct in thinking it exists.
I think John also posted a running commentary.
I am actually giving serious thought to following through in planning this.
My limitation may be the difficulty of the distances as my wife, Ellie, is not a fan of long hard days. She has walked 5 or 6 routes in Spain and Italy but remains not a fan of the walking part.

 

[Bradypus]

I think I recall that you posted a "diary" of your adventure. (somewhere). Can you share that with us ..

I'm afraid that I didn't make a written record of that journey. You might be confusing it with the posts I made on Ivar's Via Francigena forum as I walked that route. Unfortunately those VF posts were lost in the shuffle when Ivar merged the two websites. I did manage to save them before the VF site closed down.

PS: John's 2015 Shikoku blog is still online. Well worth reading though the blog software is not the most intuitive to read. If you start on this page and use the left arrow icons at the bottom of the page you should get John's posts in order.

The 88 Temple Adventure – Letter 1

Dear Sanijiva and Declan Thanks for writing to me about the 88 Temple Route on the Japanese Island of Shikoku. I walked th...

johnniewalker-santiago.blogspot.com

PPS: Reading John's blog again I was reminded that John was helped in his own planning by the late Kat Davis. Here is a link to her Shikoku blog. Very detailed information but from 2013.

Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage

Planning Blogging Gear List Expenses – how much did it actually cost? Elevation Profiles Video Gallery

followingthearrows.com

 

[grayland]

Thanks, Roland.

 

[High Endeavours]

Thanks @Bradypus for updating information and interest in the Shikoku Pilgrimage.
Many of us value your personal experience with this pilgrimage. I became very interested in the Shikoku after learning and hearing about it from you and John but never really was able to quit the Spain routes.
The culture change and commercialization has made it less attractive to continue ...even on the less busy routes. Just a sense of loss due to nostalgia I would guess.

I think I recall that you posted a "diary" of your adventure. (somewhere). Can you share that with us ...if I am correct in thinking it exists.
I think John also posted a running commentary.
I am actually giving serious thought to following through in planning this.
My limitation may be the difficulty of the distances as my wife, Ellie, is not a fan of long hard days. She has walked 5 or 6 routes in Spain and Italy but remains not a fan of the walking part.

Hi grayland.

Thanks @Bradypus for updating information and interest in the Shikoku Pilgrimage.
Many of us value your personal experience with this pilgrimage. I became very interested in the Shikoku after learning and hearing about it from you and John but never really was able to quit the Spain routes.
The culture change and commercialization has made it less attractive to continue ...even on the less busy routes. Just a sense of loss due to nostalgia I would guess.

I think I recall that you posted a "diary" of your adventure. (somewhere). Can you share that with us ...if I am correct in thinking it exists.
I think John also posted a running commentary.
I am actually giving serious thought to following through in planning this.
My limitation may be the difficulty of the distances as my wife, Ellie, is not a fan of long hard days. She has walked 5 or 6 routes in Spain and Italy but remains not a fan of the walking part.

Hi grayland.
I walked the 88 Temple route in spring 2017. It was a wonderful journey, and perhaps the most spiritual walk I’ve ever experienced. Not many westerners were walking it at that time. Many more now that awareness about this route has increased and with it new guides in many languages have become available. I did keep a daily blog during my walk, and you are most welcome to have a look if you are interested. The worst it can do is to help you to fall asleep

Regards,
Geoff

Stage 1: Tokushima to Temple 6, 17 kms, Sunny, Warm 20 :)

Place Of Spiritual Awakening It has begun! After the expected very restless night we managed to get up and on the move this morning. We caug...

caminotime.blogspot.com

 

[grayland]

Thanks @High Endeavours ….that was great to read.

 

[hikentravel1234]

Thanks for thinking of me @Bradypus
Unfortunately you have to be a NYT subscriber to read the article past the 1st paragraph...
I'm happy knowing it's there though...

You can likely Google this topic and get some good information. I would absolutely love to go to Japan.

 

[Tassie Kaz]

You can likely Google this topic and get some good information. I would absolutely love to go to Japan.

Thanks @hikentravel1234...but you've slightly misunderstood my post
I walked the entire 88 Temples route in spring 2017...coinciding it with cherry blossom time. @Bradypus knows this of course & we have connected many times over it.
My forum avatar is also from Shikoku...& its current incarnation is compliments of @Bradypus !
I would absolutely encourage you to go to Japan & if you can, walk the Way of 88 Temples. As I stated in another contribution to this thread, it remains my absolute favourite walk in so many ways...& I still miss Japan to this day.
Gambatte!

 

[Victoria65]

Hi grayland.

Hi grayland.
I walked the 88 Temple route in spring 2017. It was a wonderful journey, and perhaps the most spiritual walk I’ve ever experienced. Not many westerners were walking it at that time. Many more now that awareness about this route has increased and with it new guides in many languages have become available. I did keep a daily blog during my walk, and you are most welcome to have a look if you are interested. The worst it can do is to help you to fall asleep

Regards,
Geoff

Stage 1: Tokushima to Temple 6, 17 kms, Sunny, Warm 20 :)

Place Of Spiritual Awakening It has begun! After the expected very restless night we managed to get up and on the move this morning. We caug...

caminotime.blogspot.com

High Endeavours. Your blog is awesome and is far from putting me to sleep. Better and far more detailed than the NYT article. I am so into this Camino primarily due to your incredible pictures and narrative! Thank you so much! Time to start planning!

 

[High Endeavours]

High Endeavours. Your blog is awesome and is far from putting me to sleep. Better and far more detailed than the NYT article. I am so into this Camino primarily due to your incredible pictures and narrative! Thank you so much! Time to start planning!

Thanks! I hope you enjoy the experience. It is unique and very special. It continues to resonate long after my own walk. In Japan it’s referred to as a Henro vs Camino. There is a group page on Facebook that would likely provide you with lots more information as you plan. Have fun!

 

[ShikokuHenro]

I'm in the planning phase for a November Shikoku Pilgrimage. To reduce the time and pounding on the pavement we are going to use inline skates - it looks like 80% is skate-able. Cost-wise my estimates will be about what you would spend on the Camino if you stayed in inexpensive single person accommodation and ate restaurant meals. In Japan most accommodation is per person so there is not much group discount. I am quite familiar with Japan and my friend's Japanese wife is a phone call away but I know this will be a much bigger cultural adventure than the Camino.

Unfortunately Japan is very restrictive when it comes to roller blades and skateboards. Many roads, streets and sidewalks are off limits.

 

[makingtrax]

Here’s a gift link to the article for free access for non-subscribers:

88 Temples, 750 Miles, Untold Gifts: Japan’s Shikoku Pilgrimage

A famed route on the smallest of Japan’s four main islands offers breathtaking views and an array of lessons on history, culture and generosity.

www.nytimes.com

Thanku very much.

 

[WalkingInGers]

This is what comes up as I scroll down to read the article. I only have a mobile device so perhaps thats a reason...or maybe my location?

View attachment 149986

I cannot read the article for the same reason..NYT wants to be paid!

 

[Bradypus]

I cannot read the article for the same readon…NYT wants to be paid!

Try the free link that @jungleboy posted in post #4 above. Works for me.

 

[WalkingInGers]

Try the free link that @jungleboy posted in post #4 above. Works for me.

Here is the message I receive..Unfortunately, the gift article you clicked on has expired. Already a subscriber? Log in.

 

[Housedog]

Unfortunately Japan is very restrictive when it comes to roller blades and skateboards. Many roads, streets and sidewalks are off limits.

I would like to know where you get this information. My friend who has lived in Japan, has a Japanese wife and has skated all over Japan for more than 20 years says this is news to him.