shefollowsshells
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- Time of past OR future Camino
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Where else do you get such huge horizons.
I'm not certain this advice is needed for alum of the Camino that choose to return here to live it daily, for we obviously love our Camino.
Newbies , I would ask you to consider not to let anyone ever describe the Meseta as "boring" or try to convince you the Meseta is "boring". Consider looking at the Meseta as a season in life.
I think others will say it way better than I ever can BUT I would just cringe when I heard others on trail say things like, "I hear the boring part starts tomorrow", "I'm taking a bus thru the boring part" etc... to say this implies that your camino experience has nothing to do do with other pilgrims or even meals missed along the way.
I had some of the best conversations with myself on the Meseta, most of my best walking was done there, and I looked at it as a great time to think things through.
I'll never forget a late start out of Burgos having chosen to sit behind in the city square with coffee and pastry and watch the street sweepers, and the hustle and bustle of the city in the morning. I felt the need to keep walking, passing San Bol that I had in my notes as a place I really wanted to stay. I kept walking , something told me to do it...and all of a sudden out of nowhere a steeple appears to be coming out of nowhere in the sands before me...each step revealing it more and more...till you walk into Hontanas. This was socially one of the best nights of my Camino.
I've been giving the Meseta a lot of thought lately and really wanted to just put the thought in newbies ears to not let anyone on trail influence you to think it is "boring".
Neve
Looks so much like my home!The Meseta was one of my favorite places of the entire trail--that and the Pyrenees. =) Such huge, open skies! Seems like you can see forever! And the wind that will blow so powerfully it can knock a guy over! (I get a bit of a thrill out of walking around in a really strong wind--a lot of people find it annoying, though.)
But I absolutely loved the Meseta. I remember thinking two or three days out of Burgos how awesome the area was and if this was considered the boring part, I couldn't wait to see what the rest of the trail was like! Somewhat surprisingly, my least favorite section was Galicia where the hills are relentlessness (I do like walking on flat ground), the rain was persistent, and the views less common because all those darned trees got in the way!
But I'll also say.... I took pretty much every alternative path I could find on the Meseta. A lot of the Camino runs alongside busy highways which isn't my idea of fun, so I deliberately dodged them every chance I had. It's a much quieter and nicer experience if you avoid the path more traveled.
And since we're sharing photos....
View attachment 8782 View attachment 8783 View attachment 8784 View attachment 8785 View attachment 8786 View attachment 8787
All of these were taken between Burgos and Leon, and everyone who bussed between the two missed it all. *shaking head* Beauty is everywhere! =)
-- Ryan
Ah yes, the flies. If you weren't careful they became afternoon snacks.Loved the Meseta as well, for all the beauty and struggle and quiet and boredom and glory and drudge and spaciousness: newbies do remember a hat with a good brim and a scarf for the flies, which were everywhere. I was there in late Sept. and the flies can drive you mad: in your eyes and mouth and nose. A somewhat begruntled local told me it was the peregrinos that brought them: the leavings of the peregrinos to be indelicate.
So, respectfully watch your hygiene on the Meseta, especially on the Meseta: take care of things when you are near a flush toilet. That is my love letter to the Meseta.
Hear, hear!!I'm not certain this advice is needed for alum of the Camino that choose to return here to live it daily, for we obviously love our Camino.
Newbies , I would ask you to consider not to let anyone ever describe the Meseta as "boring" or try to convince you the Meseta is "boring". Consider looking at the Meseta as a season in life.
I think others will say it way better than I ever can BUT I would just cringe when I heard others on trail say things like, "I hear the boring part starts tomorrow", "I'm taking a bus thru the boring part" etc... to say this implies that your camino experience has nothing to do do with other pilgrims or even meals missed along the way.
I had some of the best conversations with myself on the Meseta, most of my best walking was done there, and I looked at it as a great time to think things through.
I'll never forget a late start out of Burgos having chosen to sit behind in the city square with coffee and pastry and watch the street sweepers, and the hustle and bustle of the city in the morning. I felt the need to keep walking, passing San Bol that I had in my notes as a place I really wanted to stay. I kept walking , something told me to do it...and all of a sudden out of nowhere a steeple appears to be coming out of nowhere in the sands before me...each step revealing it more and more...till you walk into Hontanas. This was socially one of the best nights of my Camino.
I've been giving the Meseta a lot of thought lately and really wanted to just put the thought in newbies ears to not let anyone on trail influence you to think it is "boring".
Neve
Totally agree ....The Meseta was one of my favorite places of the entire trail--that and the Pyrenees. =) Such huge, open skies! Seems like you can see forever! And the wind that will blow so powerfully it can knock a guy over! (I get a bit of a thrill out of walking around in a really strong wind--a lot of people find it annoying, though.)
But I absolutely loved the Meseta. I remember thinking two or three days out of Burgos how awesome the area was and if this was considered the boring part, I couldn't wait to see what the rest of the trail was like! Somewhat surprisingly, my least favorite section was Galicia where the hills are relentlessness (I do like walking on flat ground), the rain was persistent, and the views less common because all those darned trees got in the way!
But I'll also say.... I took pretty much every alternative path I could find on the Meseta. A lot of the Camino runs alongside busy highways which isn't my idea of fun, so I deliberately dodged them every chance I had. It's a much quieter and nicer experience if you avoid the path more traveled.
And since we're sharing photos....
View attachment 8782 View attachment 8783 View attachment 8784 View attachment 8785 View attachment 8786 View attachment 8787
All of these were taken between Burgos and Leon, and everyone who bussed between the two missed it all. *shaking head* Beauty is everywhere! =)
-- Ryan
I am appreciating this thread. I have always felt drawn to open landscapes. Maybe a reaction to having grown up in green trees, mountains, oceans and lakes. The openness feels freeing, like I can breathe, so ever since hearing of the Meseta, I have looked forward to it.
Thus, knowing I will do slow short days (when possible) I have chosen to start in Burgos, the week after Santa Semana spent in Burgos and still get to SdC in time period I have.
I actually leave home Sunday (EEK!) to do some visiting, Camino meeting in Victoria BC, etc. and fly April 10. Almost good to go...
The only thing that would concern me on the Meseta is thunderstorms but hoping I am early enough in the season to avoid them. I do know theoretically what to do, but I am just uneasy....or honestly...scared.
Lynd
I loved the Meseta - its' huge a beautiful vistas - I never thought of it as flat and boring at all. At times I hated it, especially when my feet hurt, my head hurt and I was so tired that I could not think straight, but then, someone would come up beside me and smile and help me to 'get up and going again', the sun would still be shining, or the rain would be falling, but overall, it was BEAUTIFUL......all part of the greater experience of The Camino.....smiles.Totally agree ....
Hi Rebekah, I am just in the process of reading your blog, and have your book. For my flight to Spain.when you guys pass through Moratinos, stop in and say hello.
Thank you so much for a wonderful post! I have read people complaining about the Meseta, but many more have described it's beauty and its impact upon them during the Camino.I'm not certain this advice is needed for alum of the Camino that choose to return here to live it daily, for we obviously love our Camino.
Newbies , I would ask you to consider not to let anyone ever describe the Meseta as "boring" or try to convince you the Meseta is "boring". Consider looking at the Meseta as a season in life.
I think others will say it way better than I ever can BUT I would just cringe when I heard others on trail say things like, "I hear the boring part starts tomorrow", "I'm taking a bus thru the boring part" etc... to say this implies that your camino experience has nothing to do do with other pilgrims or even meals missed along the way.
I had some of the best conversations with myself on the Meseta, most of my best walking was done there, and I looked at it as a great time to think things through.
I'll never forget a late start out of Burgos having chosen to sit behind in the city square with coffee and pastry and watch the street sweepers, and the hustle and bustle of the city in the morning. I felt the need to keep walking, passing San Bol that I had in my notes as a place I really wanted to stay. I kept walking , something told me to do it...and all of a sudden out of nowhere a steeple appears to be coming out of nowhere in the sands before me...each step revealing it more and more...till you walk into Hontanas. This was socially one of the best nights of my Camino.
I've been giving the Meseta a lot of thought lately and really wanted to just put the thought in newbies ears to not let anyone on trail influence you to think it is "boring".
Neve
And very cheap, very tasty wine!Dakotas and Montana in the US, George.
But, I have to admit that the Meseta has them all outclassed in terms of availability of cafe con leche!
B
Having lived and hiked in North Dakota(ND) for a year before I walked the Camino, upon reaching the Meseta, I knew that living in ND had been my preparation for the Meseta!!!Dakotas and Montana in the US, George.
But, I have to admit that the Meseta has them all outclassed in terms of availability of cafe con leche!
B
Can't complain about the meseta, except for the 17 km from Carrion de Los Condes. Once mastered that imho boring distance, from Lédigos onwards it becomes "palatable" again.
Can't complain about the meseta, except for the 17 km from Carrion de Los Condes.
I have heard of this section. How long of a stretch is it? I will walk this part too. I was just wondering.
I'm not certain this advice is needed for alum of the Camino that choose to return here to live it daily, for we obviously love our Camino.
Newbies , I would ask you to consider not to let anyone ever describe the Meseta as "boring" or try to convince you the Meseta is "boring". Consider looking at the Meseta as a season in life.
I think others will say it way better than I ever can BUT I would just cringe when I heard others on trail say things like, "I hear the boring part starts tomorrow", "I'm taking a bus thru the boring part" etc... to say this implies that your camino experience has nothing to do do with other pilgrims or even meals missed along the way.
I had some of the best conversations with myself on the Meseta, most of my best walking was done there, and I looked at it as a great time to think things through.
I'll never forget a late start out of Burgos having chosen to sit behind in the city square with coffee and pastry and watch the street sweepers, and the hustle and bustle of the city in the morning. I felt the need to keep walking, passing San Bol that I had in my notes as a place I really wanted to stay. I kept walking , something told me to do it...and all of a sudden out of nowhere a steeple appears to be coming out of nowhere in the sands before me...each step revealing it more and more...till you walk into Hontanas. This was socially one of the best nights of my Camino.
I've been giving the Meseta a lot of thought lately and really wanted to just put the thought in newbies ears to not let anyone on trail influence you to think it is "boring".
Neve
I'm sorry I won't see it...I'm not certain this advice is needed for alum of the Camino that choose to return here to live it daily, for we obviously love our Camino.
Newbies , I would ask you to consider not to let anyone ever describe the Meseta as "boring" or try to convince you the Meseta is "boring". Consider looking at the Meseta as a season in life.
I think others will say it way better than I ever can BUT I would just cringe when I heard others on trail say things like, "I hear the boring part starts tomorrow", "I'm taking a bus thru the boring part" etc... to say this implies that your camino experience has nothing to do do with other pilgrims or even meals missed along the way.
I had some of the best conversations with myself on the Meseta, most of my best walking was done there, and I looked at it as a great time to think things through.
I'll never forget a late start out of Burgos having chosen to sit behind in the city square with coffee and pastry and watch the street sweepers, and the hustle and bustle of the city in the morning. I felt the need to keep walking, passing San Bol that I had in my notes as a place I really wanted to stay. I kept walking , something told me to do it...and all of a sudden out of nowhere a steeple appears to be coming out of nowhere in the sands before me...each step revealing it more and more...till you walk into Hontanas. This was socially one of the best nights of my Camino.
I've been giving the Meseta a lot of thought lately and really wanted to just put the thought in newbies ears to not let anyone on trail influence you to think it is "boring".
Neve
Howdy Keith! I live in Bozeman and am so envious of your upcoming camino! My friend and I did the Frances exactly a year ago and I miss it every day. You are in for a real treat. I'd love to hear about your trip when you get back...if you ever find yourself in Bozeman, I'll buy you a beer and we can compare notes! In the mean time, let me know if you have any questions."Simply be" on a previous post mentions Montana & the Dakota's, if from the pictures shown, my ranching, hunting grounds do appear to be the same special isolation. A person can find alot of good in the "special" in these places. I find they remind you of how wonderfull a planet we live on. Makes me even more excited to leave in 2 weeks.
Keith
So true - the Meseta becomes a metaphor where we 'take our life for a walk'. Self-reflection is the purpose of pilgrimage. The mediaeval monks somehow knew that at a personal level all is solved by walking - solvitur ambulando. Things, situations etc may not change - but we do. Go for it!I'm not certain this advice is needed for alum of the Camino that choose to return here to live it daily, for we obviously love our Camino.
Newbies , I would ask you to consider not to let anyone ever describe the Meseta as "boring" or try to convince you the Meseta is "boring". Consider looking at the Meseta as a season in life.
I think others will say it way better than I ever can BUT I would just cringe when I heard others on trail say things like, "I hear the boring part starts tomorrow", "I'm taking a bus thru the boring part" etc... to say this implies that your camino experience has nothing to do do with other pilgrims or even meals missed along the way.
I had some of the best conversations with myself on the Meseta, most of my best walking was done there, and I looked at it as a great time to think things through.
I'll never forget a late start out of Burgos having chosen to sit behind in the city square with coffee and pastry and watch the street sweepers, and the hustle and bustle of the city in the morning. I felt the need to keep walking, passing San Bol that I had in my notes as a place I really wanted to stay. I kept walking , something told me to do it...and all of a sudden out of nowhere a steeple appears to be coming out of nowhere in the sands before me...each step revealing it more and more...till you walk into Hontanas. This was socially one of the best nights of my Camino.
I've been giving the Meseta a lot of thought lately and really wanted to just put the thought in newbies ears to not let anyone on trail influence you to think it is "boring".
Neve
Tom, how long will you be in Santiago? I think it is great that you are able to volunteer there...something I would love to do in the future.
Kris
Unfortunately, I will probably be in the Meseta at that time. Thanks for the invitation to chat though.I plan to arrive on or about 30 May. My service starts 2 June, through 16 June. I fly from Santiago to Belgium to visit friends on 17 June. If you will be there then, start a private conversation with me and I will provide my contact details.
I have lived on the meseta for eight years. Its quiet, severe, big-sky Zen suits me right down to my soul.
It is the heart of the camino. It´s not engineered for people who must be always entertained, so those who skip by for the sake of "boringness" probably wouldn´t get it anyway.
Hats off to those who take it on, and eventually feel it take them in.
I'm a "little" bit worried (actually - a lot) about the 17km of walk, with out any "stop". The heat in the beginning/middle of july... Is it easy to walk in the really early hours, even night?! Or, are there at least some tree's? Any recommendations to handle that part of meseta? Over all, I'm looking forward to this 2nd part of the camino.
I'm a "little" bit worried (actually - a lot) about the 17km of walk, with out any "stop". The heat in the beginning/middle of july... Is it easy to walk in the really early hours, even night?! Or, are there at least some tree's? Any recommendations to handle that part of meseta? Over all, I'm looking forward to this 2nd part of the camino.
I hav to add:
Ooops! Now - I saw some tips! I wrote before I had ended the reading! Sorry!
I'm a "little" bit worried (actually - a lot) about the 17km of walk, with out any "stop". The heat in the beginning/middle of july... Is it easy to walk in the really early hours, even night?! Or, are there at least some tree's? Any recommendations to handle that part of meseta? Over all, I'm looking forward to this 2nd part of the camino.
I hav to add:
Ooops! Now - I saw some tips! I wrote before I had ended the reading! Sorry!
I'm a "little" bit worried (actually - a lot) about the 17km of walk, with out any "stop". The heat in the beginning/middle of july... Is it easy to walk in the really early hours, even night?! Or, are there at least some tree's? Any recommendations to handle that part of meseta? Over all, I'm looking forward to this 2nd part of the camino.
I hav to add:
Ooops! Now - I saw some tips! I wrote before I had ended the reading! Sorry!
Tina, like t2andreo (Tom), I will start out from SJPdp the 27th and staying at Orrison the first night (won't challenge my old bones the very first day). Will most likely bump into you.This is exciting! I'm so happy to have found this particular post. I will be doing my very first camino, solo, starting April 27th, ending June 6th. I'm feeling overwhelmed with emotions!
Hi Lotta.
Yes it may not always seem obvious or maybe we forget to top up our bottles in the morning but without it you will be like a car without petrol. I took this photo last year to demonstrate the effects of dehydration on the wild life.
View attachment 9192
Very droll. And rather spooky!
If you have ever suffered personally from dehydration then you would soon change your views. It is rarely droll not at all spooky and can be fatal. I know I can please some of the people some of the time but it is impossible to please all of the people all of the time. So please keep your hydration levels up.
No, no, not your comment - I was referring to the accompanying photo! Which appears to be a stuffed doll on top of a km post.
No, no, not your comment - I was referring to the accompanying photo! Which appears to be a stuffed doll on top of a km post.
The Meseta is a good place. Walk it. It will certainly give you time for reflections and thinking.
Pictures from a small hilltop on the Meseta: The road I had walked in the morning one day after Castrojeritz:
View attachment 9196
The road still ahead of me the same day:
View attachment 9197
Do not let that scare you: You will most likely stroll peacefully along with newfound friends, chatting and having one of those times of your life.
Nice. Re. pic.no. 2: I was bypassed by a maxi taxi while walking down. When I arrived to the albergue, all 6 passngers in the taxi had gotten nice, lower bunks... I saw it stopped on the outskirts, letting them walk into tha pueblo... Life.Hi Alex, Here's a few more pics..............
Hi Alex,
Here's a few more pics..............including one person who would dearly love to see the Meseta one more time, R.I.P.
Nice. Re. pic.no. 2: I was bypassed by a maxi taxi while walking down. When I arrived to the albergue, all 6 passngers in the taxi had gotten nice, lower bunks... I saw it stopped on the outskirts, letting them walk into tha pueblo... Life.
We better not judge, indeed: I am happy to be able to walk by my own means. If they didn't need the transport, maybe they will learn. If not, just stay awaynow, now. Those pilgrims might be undertaking cancer treatments, or fighting demons unseen that require taxi transport. Or they may be spoiled tourigrino cheaters -- which is itself a sad handicap on the camino. They can afford a cab, but still want to sleep in a saggy bunk in a dormitory full of smelly hikers! Something is WRONG with the poor people!
Nice. Re. pic.no. 2: I was bypassed by a maxi taxi while walking down. When I arrived to the albergue, all 6 passngers in the taxi had gotten nice, lower bunks... I saw it stopped on the outskirts, letting them walk into tha pueblo... Life.
I'll second every one of your words. I don't feel bad about it, I just feel pity, hope they learn, and come back in a more real manner. But it is entirely up to themselves.I laughed a little to myself, and in some ways feel kind of bad for somebody that does things like that.
Newbies, I would ask you to consider not to let anyone ever describe the Meseta as "boring" or try to convince you the Meseta is "boring". Consider looking at the Meseta as a season in life.
I think others will say it way better than I ever can BUT I would just cringe when I heard others on trail say things like, "I hear the boring part starts tomorrow", "I'm taking a bus thru the boring part" etc... to say this implies that your camino experience has nothing to do do with other pilgrims or even meals missed along the way.
I had some of the best conversations with myself on the Meseta, most of my best walking was done there, and I looked at it as a great time to think things through.
I'll never forget a late start out of Burgos having chosen to sit behind in the city square with coffee and pastry and watch the street sweepers, and the hustle and bustle of the city in the morning. I felt the need to keep walking, passing San Bol that I had in my notes as a place I really wanted to stay. I kept walking , something told me to do it...and all of a sudden out of nowhere a steeple appears to be coming out of nowhere in the sands before me...each step revealing it more and more...till you walk into Hontanas. This was socially one of the best nights of my Camino.
I've been giving the Meseta a lot of thought lately and really wanted to just put the thought in newbies ears to not let anyone on trail influence you to think it is "boring".
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