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Search 69,459 Camino Questions

LIVE from the Camino Starting today Camino Del Mar

The Ghost

Member
Time of past OR future Camino
2021
I arrived Santiago yesterday. Today, I'm currently on a bus to Ribadeo. It looks wet outside and very cloudy. I'm going to attempt to do the Camino Del Mar (Ruta do Mar). I verified last night that I would receive a Compostela. Two out of three people working didn't know if you would receive a Compostela. Luckily the third person showed them on the computer. (This at the office where they issue them)
I did a flyover over of the area utilizing my Alltrails app. It looks interesting so even if I wasn't awarded a Compostela I'd want to do it.

My main Concern is finding places to stay that won't kill my pocketbook. I'm going to start walking today ( I think, not sure of the weather) I'm stayng in Ribadeo tonight. I hope I'll be able to get a bus back tonight and then back to where I left off in the morning. I'm even wondering if a bus back and forth to Ribadeo for a couple of the stages would work out.if anyone had done this please reply.
 
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I walked this route back in 2016. I like to camino on a very tight budget and I was a bit out of my comfort zone having to pay for hostels but overall it was well worth it. I think I gave contact info for the places I stayed. Check it out on my blog, starting on day 24. It’s a fabulous, if rather lonely, route. I’m sure you will love it as much as I did.
 
I've done this in reverse. What are your stopping points and others might be able to give you some suggestions. As well as @Magwood 's comprehensive blog, you should also check the 2023 trip by @Dave who has written a guide.
 
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I walked this route back in 2016. I like to camino on a very tight budget and I was a bit out of my comfort zone having to pay for hostels but overall it was well worth it. I think I gave contact info for the places I stayed. Check it out on my blog, starting on day 24. It’s a fabulous, if rather lonely, route. I’m sure you will love it as much as I did.
Thank you. Yes, I did read your blog a few days before leaving and made some notes. I downloaded the trails. I didn't want to pay for the wiki app but my samsung health does open the maps but when I try to reopen the downloads, I'm having issues.

After checking into my albergue in Ribadeo, which was next to the tourist office. I got some good info. That by taking the bus to the beach. I could use that ticket to get me into the beach. Otherwise I needed a reservation. I took the bus to the beach and then walked back to my Albergue - 10 miles. My plan for tomorrow is to take the bus back to the beach and then start walking towards Foz.
 
This is a camino I'm eying with interest, so I hope you post from time to time, @The Ghost.

In any event, buen camino !
DAY 2 was yesterday. I took the bus back and started at Praia de las Catedrales an continued to Foz. The day started off very chilly but it was nice after a short time. It was a pretty walk along the coast. You get to a point across the water from Foz and think you don't have far but it ends up I had to walk another about 11k to get around the water. I stayed at the Ancora hostel Foz. I paid 20 euro. I was the only one in the entire place. 12 beds in the room with lockers. The bad thing was they had a window of only 2 hours for checking in starting at 1800. No one was there. I ended up calling the number on the door. They called back and gave me the code to get in. No stamp but I did get one from a nearby restaurant.
 
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DAY 3 was today. The day started with being woke up by the church bells in Foz. It's a good thing since it was after 9. I stayed on the coast the entire day vs going up into the hills above on the alternative route at Burela. I wasn't interested in climbing up 200 meters. Igrexa de Nois was locked and I wasn't able to get in. The bad thing for today, it was very sunny all day and the heat took a toll on me. I booked a hotel out of San Cibrao and had to walk up a 100m over 1.5 k distance. Luck would have it that the trail was right next to the hotel O Castelo ( paid 37 euro for a room. The best price I could find, not much near the hotel, there is a restaurant but looked a little pricey. I'm not willing to walk back down the hill for supplies for tomorrow. I washed my clothes in the sink, hopefully they'll be dry tomorrow) so tomorrow I'll get to start on top of a hill and about 3 k into the start of the stage.
My memory for today: I had stopped for a break. My church's homework was to read Roman 15 each day this week. I think there was twice where Paul mentioned he wanted to go to Spain. Just after the break about a half mile later I came across some baptisms happening in the Rio Ouro.

Beautiful coast views today.
 
Plenty of facilities in Viveiro which I presume is your next stop. I stopped short of the town in Celerio as I wanted to see what the all the fuss was about Hotel Boa Vista. Fairly ordinary but expensive-for-what-it-is hotel but the food is great.

Probably better downhill in the main town unless you are a foodie.
 
I arrived Santiago yesterday. Today, I'm currently on a bus to Ribadeo. It looks wet outside and very cloudy. I'm going to attempt to do the Camino Del Mar (Ruta do Mar). I verified last night that I would receive a Compostela. Two out of three people working didn't know if you would receive a Compostela. Luckily the third person showed them on the computer. (This at the office where they issue them)
I did a flyover over of the area utilizing my Alltrails app. It looks interesting so even if I wasn't awarded a Compostela I'd want to do it.

My main Concern is finding places to stay that won't kill my pocketbook. I'm going to start walking today ( I think, not sure of the weather) I'm stayng in Ribadeo tonight. I hope I'll be able to get a bus back tonight and then back to where I left off in the morning. I'm even wondering if a bus back and forth to Ribadeo for a couple of the stages would work out.if anyone had done this please reply.
Hope you’re enjoying your Camino! You are maybe on day 4? We walked last fall and. Day 4 was one of our more challenging and inspiring days as we walked toward Viveiro. If that’s where you’re going you may want to look up Oliva at the Oli Vita Hostel. She has a wealth of information, runs the course not Albergue on the Del Mar and manages the Face Book group page for the Del Mar. Buen Camino!
 
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Hope you’re enjoying your Camino! You are maybe on day 4? We walked last fall and. Day 4 was one of our more challenging and inspiring days as we walked toward Viveiro. If that’s where you’re going you may want to look up Oliva at the Oli Vita Hostel. She has a wealth of information, runs the course not Albergue on the Del Mar and manages the Face Book group page for the Del Mar. Buen Camino!
Thanks, today was very challenging and it only gets worse from here. I was just looking at the route. I think I'll stick to the coast. Today's 100m up and downs was bad enough. I don't think I could deal 300-400 meter climbs.
 
I don't think I could deal 300-400 meter climbs.

As a backup download the ADIF (Spanish rail network operator) app to your phone. It will show you the nearest railway station to wherever you are and you can check the FEVE trains that run along the coast. There are usually only 1 or 2 a day but at least you'll be able to have an escape if any of the sections get too much.

There is a major climb on the coast as you get towards Ferrol where you have the highest sea cliffs on mainland Europe. Going inland / taking the FEVE train may help but if you can make it to the top, the views are tremendous (weather permitting)
 
DAY 4, I stayed at the Hotel O Castelo. I had an OJ and Croissant for breakfast so probably lacking for the energy I would need. The stage started downhill for me. After about 3 miles, I arrived at the coast and did mostly up (around 300 feet) and a little down and back up several times over 2 miles. I'm a water miser, I drink it sparingly. Arriving at Portocelo, there is a beach with water available. Sorely needed to cool off my head and allow me to drink all that I had plus refill up my bottle. (The bathrooms were locked) Another beach at Esteiro with water available. The day started off overcast but turned to sunny by noon. On the climbing portions the sweat was just rolling of me. My hotel I'm staying at is in Celeiro, just short of Viveiro. The first thing I did was shower, felt so good even thou the water never got warm. I did pass an Albergue not to far back and saw an advertisement for another in Viveiro. ( I bit off on the internet ad last night thinking there wasn't an Albergue, could have saved $15)
Tomorrow's route looks challenging. I've booked a room in O Vicedo, along the coast. I wished I thought about it more. Maybe I could have done the 400m up and down twice and stopped short in Couzadoiro at about 24 k. (After doing the conversion, that's over 1300 feet but it's only twice, oh well, too late.) I'm 62 and had a blocked artery 2 years (after doing the Norte) so maybe it's best I don't push it.

It was another day of beautiful views!
 
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Thanks, today was very challenging and it only gets worse from here. I was just looking at the route. I think I'll stick to the coast. Today's 100m up and downs was bad enough. I don't think I could deal 300-400 meter climbs.
Good thoughts. The coast has plenty of its own challenge and is clearly matched by its beauty.
We took a taxi out of Viveiro to the city limits which allowed us to enjoy the walk to Porto do Barquiero. Is that where you are? It’s a beautiful walk.
 
Actually, my room is at Porto O Barquiero, not O Vicedo like I had Posted.
DAY 5:
I came up with a plan last night and it worked out. I arranged with the hotel for me to drop my bag off early in the morning. I caught the 8 o'clock train in Viveiro and took it to O Barquiero. I walked back to Viveiro where I caught the 1600 train back to my night stay.

If I had to do it over. I think I would have taken the train from San Cibrao to Viveiro, drop my bag early and walk back to San C. Taking the train back in the afternoon. Then the next day, keeping the bed at the albergue and walk without my backpack again and catch the train in the afternoon back to Viveiro.

I'm considering keeping my room for tomorrow night and walk without my pack and doing the train trick. The train cost 1.85 euro this morning which I bought from the train personnel. In the afternoon, there wasn't anyone on the train to sell me a ticket, so the round trip cost me 1.85.

The days started off cool, walking in the shade of the mountain. By the time I finished it was hot again. I think I had about 2 up and down 300+ ft. I had another 600+ and finished the day with a climb to around 500' before getting back down. I think there were two beaches that had a chance for water but bathrooms were locked again. There were points I saw ocean but most of the day was spent in the woods. Still a pretty walk. No chance for food till I got back to Viveiro where I had spaghetti. First real prepared food vs my sandwiches.

The day did wear me out again. I think it was the heat.

I came across 3 other pilgrims. The first I'd seen since Ribadeo. I spoke with the gal, from Switzerland. It helped to see others since I was going the opposite direction.

Time to plan for tomorrow. ...
In reviewing Magwood's info. I see I'm staying at the hotel O Forno. I'll have to try some of her favorite foods tomorrow night. I see that her info has it being a shorter day which I'll wecome. I'm planning to go a little further. At this point, depending on how I sleep tonight. If I sleep well, I might get up and make it to the train station just after 8 otherwise I'll start on the trail and at the end of the day. I'll take the train back to O Barquiero.
 
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As a backup download the ADIF (Spanish rail network operator) app to your phone. It will show you the nearest railway station to wherever you are and you can check the FEVE trains that run along the coast. There are usually only 1 or 2 a day but at least you'll be able to have an escape if any of the sections get too much.

There is a major climb on the coast as you get towards Ferrol where you have the highest sea cliffs on mainland Europe. Going inland / taking the FEVE train may help but if you can make it to the top, the views are tremendous (weather permitting)
Thanks, I downloaded the app. I wish it had info over be Teixido/Cervo and that area of land. Must not be anything over there.
 
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Actually, my room is at Porto O Barquiero, not O Vicedo like I had Posted.
DAY 5:
I came up with a plan last night and it worked out. I arranged with the hotel for me to drop my bag off early in the morning. I caught the 8 o'clock train in Viveiro and took it to O Barquiero. I walked back to Viveiro where I caught the 1600 train back to my night stay.

If I had to do it over. I think I would have taken the train from San Cibrao to Viveiro, drop my bag early and walk back to San C. Taking the train back in the afternoon. Then the next day, keeping the bed at the albergue and walk without my backpack again and catch the train in the afternoon back to Viveiro.

I'm considering keeping my room for tomorrow night and walk without my pack and doing the train trick. The train cost 1.85 euro this morning which I bought from the train personnel. In the afternoon, there wasn't anyone on the train to sell me a ticket, so the round trip cost me 1.85.

The days started off cool, walking in the shade of the mountain. By the time I finished it was hot again. I think I had about 2 up and down 300+ ft. I had another 600+ and finished the day with a climb to around 500' before getting back down. I think there were two beaches that had a chance for water but bathrooms were locked again. There were points I saw ocean but most of the day was spent in the woods. Still a pretty walk. No chance for food till I got back to Viveiro where I had spaghetti. First real prepared food vs my sandwiches.

The day did wear me out again. I think it was the heat.

I came across 3 other pilgrims. The first I'd seen since Ribadeo. I spoke with the gal, from Switzerland. It helped to see others since I was going the opposite direction.

Time to plan for tomorrow. ...
In reviewing Magwood's info. I see I'm staying at the hotel O Forno. I'll have to try some of her favorite foods tomorrow night. I see that her info has it being a shorter day which I'll wecome. I'm planning to go a little further. At this point, depending on how I sleep tonight. If I sleep well, I might get up and make it to the train station just after 8 otherwise I'll start on the trail and at the end of the day. I'll take the train back to O Barquiero.
Great solution! It’s basically the same idea Oli Vita Hostel promotes. Walking it backwards is intriguing…I wonder how a different perspective would have changed my experience. We tried to stay at O Forno last year but they were closed and we stayed next door. Good luck getting breakfast before 9:30! Next stop Ortigueira?
 
Thanks, I downloaded the app. I wish it had info over be Teixido/Cervo and that area of land. Must not be anything over there.

Nothing over at Teixido as the rail route runs (wanders?) from Ponte Mera southwards to Ferrol.

Ponte Mera is where you have the decision to go almost straight towards Ferrol or take the sea cliffs route over to San Andres. It's a long slow climb to the top but if the weather is right, you get views like this looking down on San Andres

 

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Nothing over at Teixido as the rail route runs (wanders?) from Ponte Mera southwards to Ferrol.

Ponte Mera is where you have the decision to go almost straight towards Ferrol or take the sea cliffs route over to San Andres. It's a long slow climb to the top but if the weather is right, you get views like this looking down on San Andres

We took the long slow climb in less than ideal weather but had this view.
 

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Great solution! It’s basically the same idea Oli Vita Hostel promotes. Walking it backwards is intriguing…I wonder how a different perspective would have changed my experience. We tried to stay at O Forno last year but they were closed and w

e stayed next door. Good luck getting breakfast before 9:30! Next stop Ortigueira?
I'm back at o Forno for tonight. I'll write about today further down in this post...
 
DAY 6. The best day so far. Great views. The day started with me going to catch the train to Espasante which turned into a bus for whatever reason. Luckily for me to verify that I was supposed to get on the bus. I saw the same two workers from my hotel getting out of the bus. They were on the same train that I arrived on yesterday morning.
I arrived at Espasante and had a decision right off. Go straight to the beach/Port of Espasante or head off towards Santalla. I choose the later. My alltrails app showing the end of my guidance near Santalla and there was a loop around the hilltop nearby that looked interesting. It was a nice peaceful loop. About 1 mile around with views across the water towards Carinõ, however it was just the short area with a view because the rest was in trees.
I made my way down (which was a paved road so far) to the beach area of Espasante. Ah, a banos that was actually open. I walked to the far side of the beach, a restaurant was open and I got a stamp. On the otherside of the town (short, a few blocks wide) was another long beach area. Shortly afterwards, I started climbing up, 400' just to go back down the other side of that long beach. There was an area in the center of the beach that, maybe at low tide you could make it from one side to the other without the climb? So I guess it would be considered two beaches.
There were a couple more climbs, the last up to 500'. Walking a while at near this altitude. I saw a path leading off to an overlook of "Pena Furada". If you don't go far enough, you might just think it's for a view of the coast. Continuing on slightly downhill. You come across another path, choice of going down nearly 500' to the water or off to some picnic tables. A great place to absorb the views. A ways off, I could see other people at a lower point. Down in this area, there were people sitting at another 4-5 tables. The area stretched for 2-3 football fields. There was a roadside restaurant. I had Zorza con patatas and a beer. Very good, 14 euro. Continuing on I came across the gal from yesterday. I didn't talk to long, she was with somebody else. Early, I had passed by the other 2 pilgrims. I seen yesterday. I might have seen another 2-4 pilgrims.

I came down to the last beach before having to go up back up the hill to get to the otherside where my hotel was. I've been wanting Calamari, it was so good when I did the Norte 2 yrs ago. Anyway I went next door and got Calamari de la ria.

What made today great, were the views and I could take my time and enjoy. No backpack again since I was going back to the same hotel. Usually before, I had time considerations. A few of the hotels had short windows for checking in or I was catching a train.

This is the end of my Del Mar. Looking ahead on the Del Mar. The accommodations got to be too pricey for me. 80 euro (total) for last night and tonight were more than I was wanting to pay. I'm in Spain for nearly a month and would like to spend around 20 and not more than 25 in special circumstances like I did past April when I walked the Portuguese Coastal.

Tomorrow its on to Ferrol where I'll walk the English way. I think I'll do both starting points since I have the time.

Buen Camino

I'm back at o Forno for tonight. I'll write about today further down in this post...
 
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Day 7. Start of the English Way.
Train ride to Xubia, near Ferrol. Where my hotel was. The hotel had messaged me they the room was ready and a code for the door. This allowed me to get early, at 1430 and drop my bag. I then walked the 12 k to the docks at Ferrol and then train back to the hotel. The train ride from O Barquiero to Ferrol was 5.15 euro (it would have been less if I remembered I was getting off at Xubia.)

The walk the Ferrol area was okay. Mainly near roads. Nothing special about today.
 
Day 8, (2 of the English way)

The day started off misty and after several k. I put on a pack cover and rain slicker. Up and down a few small hills. After about 3.5 hours I arrived in Pontedeume. It was shortly before 1130 at which time the tourist office opened and I registered and got the key for the albergue. As I was walking this morning. I passed 14 pilgrims. Today will let me gage if it's a bed race or not. I was the first in the albergue. Within a half hour 4 others will arrive. The albergue is basic, 5 euro. The floors were still wet from the cleaning. Mattress are 5 inches thick. They provided the disposable pillow and Mattress cover. There were about 4 or 6 bunkbeds on the main floor. I went up to the loft where there were another 10 bunk beds. No kitchen or place to wash clothes that I have seen thus far.

It was a short walk this morning but I don't have the need to rush. I think I'll enjoy the town and have some food and take it easy today.
 

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