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Tomorrow you will pass through (or stay in) Reliegos, with the famous Bar Elvis near the exit of the village. It appeared in the movie The Way. Have you noticed strength buildup after weeks of walking? can you walk farther days now?
Thanks for the Bar Elvis heads up. Had heard about it numerous times on this forum. Will definitely drop in.
Yes. Going up hills is much easier and I’m seeing a difference in endurance
My husband served at the donativo albergue in Hermanillos in 2021. Cute little farming town on the old Roman road. Not many trees for shade tomorrow so take plenty of water.Day 23 - Ledigos to Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos 26.5 kms
Left the albergue at 6:05 am. For the first two hours I was wondering why I saw no other pilgrims and then I realized that they had taken a short green route that I missed (but wanted to take).
Then saw them as we were walking to Sahagun where I stopped for a café con leche and a napolitana (a sugar splurge). bought some ear plugs (yay ) and some snacks and fruit for breakfast and off I went to take the green route to Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos. And then…no tribe!! Saw no one in front of me and no one behind me and after an hour or so I felt forlorn. Despite walking alone the majority of the time by choice, I realized today that seeing other pilgrims gave me security and a sense of belonging.
The last two days I found hard mentally. Staying focused, one foot in front of the other, but today’s walk I felt somewhat disconnected from “The Way. Communal meal tonight did a reset. Tomorrow continuing on the green route. I’ll take it one step at a time.
Today is Mother’s Day. My first without my little mom. She was my best friend and I feel so blessed to have shared that friendship with her. She is with me. To all mothers out there. You are all amazing women! This song is for all of us and my little mom!
The way out of Leon is very well marked, but the continuation is VERY bad: Highways, thundering traffic, etc. Walking roadside almost all the way to Astorga. Disgusting. But: 7 kms after Leon there is an alternative: Take left at the end of La Virgen del Camino and walk to Villar de Mazarife. Stay there, will be my advice. Next day is a peaceful walk all until Hospital de Orbigo, almost in Astorga. Highly recommended. Just walk out of Leon and take the alternative route.
I made a pasta salad with chick peas, sweet onion, green and red bell peppers, a zucchini, olives and tomato. It was really good. 3 other pilgrims had some.Well, what did you get for supper? Hope you will have other pilgrims to share the meal with...
Yes, the walk towards and after Mansilla de las Mulas is not the best way...
Too bad you missed Elvis. It is ca 100 m. off the Camino, to your right, as you leave Reliegos. Sorry I forgot to be specific....
However, you will soon be in Leon. New challenge. When leaving Leon, be very careful: the main path to Astorga is dreaded by many, me incl. But there is a much better way:
By taking this Way, you are walking a great Way all until Hospital del Orbigo. At the end of Hospital del Orbigo, you come to a crossing, giving you the possibility of going straight on, or taking right to Villares del Orbigo. Take right, and enjoy yet another peaceful walk all the way to Astorga. I recommend it. Villares del Orbigo has 2 albergues, a bar, and is a very nice little village/place to spend the night, giving you a nice 17 kms walk the next day into Astorga. Or you can stay behind in Hospital de Orbigo, which is a larger place.
By taking these two diversions, the walk from Leon to Astorga is tranquil, except, maybe, for those first 1.5h., 7 kms out of Leon. No big deal.
Edit: Astorga is the chocolate capital of Spain. There's (at least) one specialized chocolate shop in town. Try some
The chocolate bars I got in Astorga were not that great, IMO. Rubbery, and not that tasty.Edit: Astorga is the chocolate capital of Spain. Buy some
I can recommend Albergue Casa de Jesus in Villar de Mazarife. It is at the very entrance to the village.Thanks AlexI appreciate the details of this alternate route.
I see that the WP app has some less favourable reviews of albergue Tio Pepe in Mazarife. I wouldn't know. I was happy with JesusAgree with Alex about avoiding the road after Virgen del Camino. The alternative is very nice!
I went twice to Albergue San Anton de Padua in Mazariffe. A special place, I highly recommend it.
I believe there is also a chocolate museum, at least there was last time I walked the route.Astorga is the chocolate capital of Spain. There's (at least) one specialized chocolate shop in town. Try some
I can recommend Albergue Casa de Jesus in Villar de Mazarife. It is at the very entrance to the village.
Maybe try winging it? If you stay between guidebook stages, there is usually space.Took some time to plan ahead to where I’ll be staying. This is time consuming and required concentration so after 90 min my brain was fried.
Maybe try winging it? If you stay between guidebook stages, there is usually space.
Gracias!!And I will definitely have that glass of chocolate with you in mindwhen I go to Astorga.
Found them. Instead of buying walking sandals I bought a new pair of Timp 4’s. Mine were pure wore out. I’ve read that model does not last as long but they are so worth it.Leon will be a good place to look for those shoes you mentioned a while back.
Love your song choice! Your poor feetEnd of day 25 - 12.5 kms to Leon outskirts. 23.9 total
Taxi taken care of by albergue took us to Mansilla de los Mulas where we continued on our way. There were some green spaces walking to León so not all bad.
Was able to buy my new Altra Timp 4’s (whoever on the design team thought of this color must have been hungover lol). Color aside, instead of buying walking sandals I was in greater need of new shoes. Felt like my feet were walking directly on the earth despite the insoles. Threads were all worn out. Then I bought the necessities for supper and some added supplies for feet (I like this pink fluffy stick on stuff you cut to measure to put on backs of my heels that). All before 1pm.
Wanted to go see the Palacio Gusmanes…take a guess! Open everyday of the week except for…you guessed it…Tuesdays.
By now I’m letting go of these hiccups almost immediately although at the onset I was flustered a bit.
Leon has such a different vibe then Pamplona or Burgos yet it’s a big enough city that I felt lost in it. I’m just not that into “seeing the sites”. I was back quiet in my space by 6:15 pm.
This surreal world of daily long walks and the routine it entails makes me feel small and invisible in larger populated centres now. I’m glad I live in a small town back home.
I was a wanderer today and feeling a bit tired. Bed awaits and so does a longer walk tomorrow.
A blues song is in order.
A gift, and an opportunity, IMHO. If one is lucky; The Camino is doing its work on the pilgrims,There's so much time to think about thinking on the Camino. Maybe you've not had time before to fully realize your grief. A gift and a curse?
Actually the difference is in the cow dung, not the flowers. The chemical makeup in the dung is such that as the day goes on and the pile heats up, certain chemicals evaporate and others come to the forefront, making for a much more pleasant odor. You can try this as you walk each day. Hour by hour, get a closer smell of various piles and you will see the difference as the day wears on. If you walk long enough you will eventually get an incredibly lovely smell out of many of them.Forgot to mention a funny story leaving Ledigos yesterday morning. That path into Ledigos had all those bushy trees in flower now with beautiful little yellow flowers that emit the most wonderful scent. At dawn yesterday, I stop to smell them and they smelled awful. I say to myself. “They smelled so good yesterday afternoon, do they have a different smell in the morning! Can’t put my finger on it but it kinda smells like shit!!” LMAO50 metres further the smell of cow dung was so clearly evident, the cilia in my nose were burning lol
Actually the difference is in the cow dung, not the flowers. The chemical makeup in the dung is such that as the day goes on and the pile heats up, certain chemicals evaporate and others come to the forefront, making for a much more pleasant odor. You can try this as you walk each day. Hour by hour, get a closer smell of various piles and you will see the difference as the day wears on. If you walk long enough you will eventually get an incredibly lovely smell out of many of them.
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Hey-- you said you were gullible!
Have a great day and great rest of your Camino. Really enjoying your posts.
That's just one of several "Holy Grails" in Spain. There is another we saw in Valencia and I wouldn't be surprised if there were a third.On your way out of Leon, just a couple 100m from the Cathedral plaza, you will see the Basilica of San Isidoro, probably the most important in Spain, from the 9th century, right in front of you. Inside, you can see, amongst many other things, this legendary artifact on display, which many researchers now believe contains The Holy Grail, the cup Jesus used at the last supper, inside. The cup is visible despite all the gold and jewels that has been added later:
Chalice's tower - San Isidoro Museum - Royal Collegiate Church
The body of the Chalice is formed by 2 cups of eastern Roman onix or agate one for the drinking vessel and one for the base dated in the first century.www.museosanisidorodeleon.com
However, does not open until 10.00 AM ... On the other hand, Leon is one of those places to stay
for a rest day. Just saying.
You have crossed the Meseta now, as I am sure you know. A fantastic section of the Camino. I love the tranquil easiness of the Meseta. From now on (starting in Astorga) the terrain will be more varied. Enjoy your well deserved hot (and cold) chocolate when you arrive in Astorga!
The chalice from the eucharistic miracle legend in O Cebreiro is sometimes linked with the Holy Grail myth too.That's just one of several "Holy Grails" in Spain. There is another we saw in Valencia and I wouldn't be surprised if there were a third.
Paella verduras in my room with chocolate covered cherries. That’s a good day.
Sigh.My journey on the way is moving along too quickly it seems. I felt a little tug at my heart while walking.
I have time but not as much as I’d like. I’m trying to find the right balance. Too little walking makes me antsy and too much is too hard on the body.Tomorrow/today it will be wise to stop in Rabanal. Several albergues there, Not least the donativo Gauchelmo.
Make it slow if you have the time. Your camino will soon be over. Do you want that? Take your time and enjoy the now, would be my advice.
WoohoohooDay 28 - Astorga to Foncebadon approx 25.2 kms
I stayed at the Posada Real Casa de Tepa. What a gift and treat for myself. The owner is in his 80’s now and the very large home has been in his family for over 200 years he told me. Tried to find out more about its history last night but no luck so far.
Going to be a cool/cold walk today. High of 14 in Foncebadon. Walking around last night it was downright cold with the wind.
As I set out, I reset myself to start anew and let the walking do the talking. My mind will rest. See you on the other side
The cross you see is the Cruz de Ferro from the 15th century.
Today I am out of my retreat from any posts or emojis. I can recommend such a breakDay 28 - Astorga to Foncebadon approx 25.2 kms
I stayed at the Posada Real Casa de Tepa. What a gift and treat for myself. The owner is in his 80’s now and the very large home has been in his family for over 200 years he told me. Tried to find out more about its history last night but no luck so far.
Going to be a cool/cold walk today. High of 14 in Foncebadon. Walking around last night it was downright cold with the wind.
As I set out, I reset myself to start anew and let the walking do the talking. My mind will rest. See you on the other side
The cross you see is the Cruz de Ferro from the 15th century.
I have met pilgrims i see again now and then. We don’t see each other for a few days. Quick exchanges that are happy ones, always asking how we are doing, but like you a Camino family is not something needed but enjoyed when kindred spirits meet time and again.Today I am out of my retreat from any posts or emojis. I can recommend such a break
How are you doing regarding your real live companions on the way?
Forgive me, you may already have commented.
I speak not of a camino family. That is not a priority for me.
That sentence is not a judgment. Just a fact.
I see more or less that this is a journey towards completion in some ways. I wish that to be so for you.
I may pause replies again - to be honest, it is good for my healthnot to mention others on the forum!
Hope you had a good day's walk. It must be a bit cold up there at +1.400 m. elevation.... Very interesting day ahead of you tomorrow.I have met pilgrims i see again now and then. We don’t see each other for a few days. Quick exchanges that are happy ones, always asking how we are doing, but like you a Camino family is it something needed but enjoyed when kindred spirits meet time and again.
As for taking breaks from the forum I’ve done that also over the years. I’m forever grateful for this forum. It got me here, feeling quietly confident that this was something I could do, despite trepidations and the “what ifs” of a first timer.
No, actually there is a much better alternative:You can always stick to the road if it’s slippy underfoot on the way down.
People, I want to shout from the rafters. Walk the Puentes de Malpaso trail from Riego to Molinaseca. It is shady, green, beautiful, and not steep or rocky.
There is a beautiful wooded trail from Riego de Ambrós to Molinaseca. It is well known in the area, called the Puentes de Malpaso, and it passes by two very old bridges. It is not rocky and the grade is not outrageous. Details here
The albergue Ave Fenix in Villafranca del Bierzo is a special, nice place. It is 24 kms from Ponferrada. The town is very nice. This is a district famous for its Bierzo wine quality.
After Villafranca, you are on your way to O'Cebreiro: I use to stop in the tiny village of La Faba (23,5 kms from Villafranca) on the way up there: A peaceful very small village. It is a steep climb up there, but having done it will make your next day easier. You will divide the climb to O'Cebreiro into 2 days. Very good.
Unfortunately I had already booked another albergue
There was a veggie Albergue there, but it burned down 2 years ago. But the other albergue, a German-run place, Albergue Ultreya, is very nice, with a garden, a small chapel etc., and there is a nice & friendly cafe in the centre of the village. Also a small tienda, if you want to buy some food/drinks.
The next day over O'Cebreiro, will have more climbs, but not as steep (after the beginning, that is...).
That is the correct name. Through hit and miss what’s works best for me is to have my first coffee and something to eat after two hours on the road. But I was tempted to go inRight across the street from the Templar castle is a very very nice coffee and pastry place. Good for breakfast. Cafe Liebana, I think it's called. Not sure of the spelling, but you can't miss it..
I’m staying in La Faba tomorrow. Have something booked. Like you I wanted to split the climbs and start towards O’Cebreiro fresh the next day.The albergue Ave Fenix in Villafranca del Bierzo is a special, nice place. It is 24 kms from Ponferrada. The town is very nice. This is a district famous for its Bierzo wine quality.
After Villafranca, you are on your way to O'Cebreiro: I use to stop in the tiny village of La Faba (23,5 kms from Villafranca) on the way up there: A peaceful very small village. It is a steep climb up there, but having done it will make your next day easier. You will divide the climb to O'Cebreiro into 2 days. Very good.
There was a veggie Albergue there, but it burned down 2 years ago. But the other albergue, a German-run place, Albergue Ultreya, is very nice, with a garden, a small chapel etc., and there is a nice & friendly cafe in the centre of the village. Also a small tienda, if you want to buy some food/drinks.
The next day over O'Cebreiro, will have more climbs, but not as steep (after the beginning, that is...).
A wise decision. The cafe in La Faba is nice, with friendly owners.I’m staying in La Faba tomorrow. Have something booked. Like you I wanted to split the climbs and start towards O’Cebreiro fresh the next day.
Without the hospitaleros voluntarios pilgrims would be hard pressed to make it to the other side. You are needed more than you can imagine. Your smiling faces and kind gestures and help at the end of a long day are balms for our bodies and our souls. Thank you for service. You are more than appreciated.Although you have already experienced the cows. We experienced our first daily cattle drives in La Laguna just above La Faba. You're close to Galicia now and O'Cebrerio is the home of the Camino's rebirth with Don Elias Valina (sorry, he has a ~ on the n, but I can't make my phone do it.) Best wishes! As you come to the end of this Camino, Phil and I will be arriving in Spain for our time as Hospitalero Voluntarios. Your accounts have convinced me that there are still pilgrims like you who will need our care. Enjoy your walk tomorrow. I would take the traditional path by the road if it were me but who knows if you will brave the higher Dragonte way?
You are right there, you know what you need to do, how you need to try to be. You know you can. So, buen camino today, chica!Day 31 - Villafranca del Bierzo to La Faba approx 23.5 kms
Slept poorly. Kept waking up. Went to bed too late and for me 3 glasses of wine is too much. That probably did not help. Mixed feelings this morning because I’m tired. Me feet are sore all over. My joints achy. So this is starting out to be a little bit of …feeling cranky today . As I set out soon walking will make this all go away as I focus on the present and one foot in front of the other. This is one of those days where I need to be most kind and patient with myself.
So chose this song because listening and dancing to it always smooths out the rough edges for me and I like the words. See you on the other side
Pain is not giaranteed to go away, but how we relate to it matters. So.. good for you in giving it (and the crankiness) kind space.As I set out soon walking will make this all go away as I focus on the present and one foot in front of the other
Completely agree: A beautiful albergue.Take your time @Dani7 , and have breaks with refreshments tomorrow. No stress.The German Albergue by the church? One of my all time favs.
Stop for a cafe tomorrow in La Laguna, another really nice place. One of the nicest days on the Francés coming up...hope you have nice weather!
I second that, turn left at the bottom of Triacastela and go to Samos. One of the nicest days walking on the Frances, almost the land that time forgot, and then the monastery.After tomorrow you will be in Galicia. Great walks. Ups and downs. I have only one recommendation for you: After Triacastela, I would walk left, to Samos: It is an easier walk, and the monastery is gorgeous. Other than that, just walk on. But reflect: You will soon be in SdC, and your walk will be over. It is a two-edged feeling: You have reached your goal, but: Was that your goal? Or was your journey the real goal? I leave you to ponder...
Hopefully, you have found new insights.
La Faba is truly a tranquil, tiny village staying in, before the leap over the mountain. Smart move by you.
I 100% second Alexwalker. The Samos leg was my favorite day of the Camino. We saw only 3-4 pilgrims all day and the monastery was very cool. Woods in the surrounding area gave off mystical energy - really loved the walk to Samos. I was walking with my 13 year old son and he said he felt like he was being watched all day (but in a good way!)After tomorrow you will be in Galicia. Great walks. Ups and downs. I have only one recommendation for you: After Triacastela, I would walk left, to Samos: It is an easier walk, and the monastery is gorgeous. Other than that, just walk on. But reflect: You will soon be in SdC, and your walk will be over. It is a two-edged feeling: You have reached your goal, but: Was that your goal? Or was your journey the real goal? I leave you to ponder... Anyway, maybe time for some reflections...
Hopefully, you have found new insights.
La Faba is truly a tranquil, tiny village staying in, before the leap over the mountain. Smart move by you.
We are all on the same page. That was always my plan even when in Canada.I second that, turn left at the bottom of Triacastela and go to Samos. One of the nicest days walking on the Frances, almost the land that time forgot, and then the monastery.
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