- Time of past OR future Camino
- Yearly and Various 2014-2019
Via Monastica 2022
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No, Laurie, the waymatking is excellent, once you get to the edge of town. I used Rayandrosa's wikiloc track for that.Are you needing a GPS, amigas?
And Sabine wants to know about rocks on that stage?Re the mud: wait until "tunnel" stage @VNwalking . There's water coming from everywhere after few rainy days on both sides of the pass
Three years ago there was no real need for GPS although I had tracks bookmarked.
Re the mud: wait until "tunnel" stage @VNwalking . There's water coming from everywhere after few rainy days on both sides of the pass
Day 1 Irun to Astigarraga
A slightly rocky start, with pounding rain for much of the day - which besides being a bit miserable made for very wet conditions underfoot.
We were pleasantly surprised at the greenness of the day and by the fast and very pleasant exot from Irun. The path meandered up and down through the Basque countryside, reminding me a lot of the Baztan.
The first stop of the day was in Oiartzun, whete we had a very nice eatly lunch at the Kastro Berri Taberna off the plaza. There is a lovely church nearby but the rain meant we didn't want to linger - nor did we stop wnen passing tabernas further along the way, but pushed straight through to Astigarraga.
Much of the way was through woodland of oak, chestnut, and beech, with the year's growth of bracken and briar coming into its early summer fullness..
We emerged from time to time from the forest to pass farms with tidy orchards of apple, cherry, and fig trees. The meadows were just coming into bloom, with daisies and aquilegia cherring our way.
The surfaces were a mix of paved and dirt. Well, make that mud. Sometimes swimming pools of it. And some of the ups and downs were rocky, muddy and sometimes running water...'interesting.'
And did I say? Up and down. And up and down. More up than down until the final descent into Astigarraga, which was fortunately not rocky, but not fun at the end of the day.
Now we are ensconced in a flash room at the Hostal Astigarraga, in an old factory off the camino, nursing sore and rather too-wet feet, but generally happy. Not the easiest day, but the weather looks a bit better and tomorow is mercifully flat
We're going with the flow.Can you also write out the distance in kms each day, please? I will follow in your footsteps in about 2 months. Do you have a plan for how many days you will walk, or are you just "going with the flow"?
Hellooo VN,
Can you also write out the distance in kms each day, please? I will follow in your footsteps in about 2 months. Do you have a plan for how many days you will walk, or are you just "going with the flow"?
/BP
Today was 21.9
We're going with the flow.
I found a resource here with stages but very sorry, can't remember where. It looks like this (excuse the super crummy pic...):
Those were exactly the words in my head while I looked at your photos. But @peregrina2000 got to them first!Wow, looks lovely
Hey VN, how lovely to see my little EXCEL spreadsheet that I put together ahead of walking in June 2015. I'm so glad that it has taken on a little life of its own!Today was 21.9
We're going with the flow.
I found a resource here with stages but very sorry, can't remember where. It looks like this (excuse the super crummy pic...):
Just found the thread with the spread sheet and made it a sticky. Good to have such detailed info, thanks Tom.Hey VN, how lovely to see my little EXCEL spreadsheet that I put together ahead of walking in June 2015. I'm so glad that it has taken on a little life of its own!
I guess you found it on one of the earlier threads. PS do please keep posting - I loved this camino and it's nice to be transported back.
cheer, tom
Careful. I'm remembering saying something similar to V about one of her photos and the forum ended up with a "duplicate this picture" thread.VN that compostion looks familiar...
https://flic.kr/p/wWjTf7
When you'll be in Agurain on the OT to pick up the key of the albergue say hello to Itziar from Monique.Day 1 Irun to Astigarraga
A slightly rocky start, with pounding rain for much of the day - which besides being a bit miserable made for very wet conditions underfoot.
We were pleasantly surprised at the greenness of the day and by the fast and very pleasant exot from Irun. The path meandered up and down through the Basque countryside, reminding me a lot of the Baztan.
The first stop of the day was in Oiartzun, whete we had a very nice eatly lunch at the Kastro Berri Taberna off the plaza. There is a lovely church nearby but the rain meant we didn't want to linger - nor did we stop wnen passing tabernas further along the way, but pushed straight through to Astigarraga.
Much of the way was through woodland of oak, chestnut, and beech, with the year's growth of bracken and briar coming into its early summer fullness..
We emerged from time to time from the forest to pass farms with tidy orchards of apple, cherry, and fig trees. The meadows were just coming into bloom, with daisies and aquilegia cherring our way.
The surfaces were a mix of paved and dirt. Well, make that mud. Sometimes swimming pools of it. And some of the ups and downs were rocky, muddy and sometimes running water...'interesting.'
And did I say? Up and down. And up and down. More up than down until the final descent into Astigarraga, which was fortunately not rocky, but not fun at the end of the day.
Now we are ensconced in a flash room at the Hostal Astigarraga, in an old factory off the camino, nursing sore and rather too-wet feet, but generally happy. Not the easiest day, but the weather looks a bit better and tomorow is mercifully flat
How funny. Yes, it's the very same place. But you had better weather.VN that compostion looks familiar...
Merci! Will do Monique, assuming we don't drown in the mud on the way.When you'll be in Agurain on the OT to pick up the key of the albergue say hello to Itziar from Monique.
Hola to Sabine...And Sabine wants to know about rocks on that stage?
Can send you my material from 2016.Hellooo VN,
Can you also write out the distance in kms each day, please? I will follow in your footsteps in about 2 months. Do you have a plan for how many days you will walk, or are you just "going with the flow"?
/BP
Can send you my material from 2016.
Although I was walking Via de Bayona which overlapse with Vasco del Interior only from Irun to Estavillo.
I have to correct myself - keep to the LEFT after the highest point!!! Not to the right. As I remember there is a little bit of mish-mash there with markers. But you'll be OK either way I'm sureCheers @KinkyOne ...very much appreciated!!
Got myself a walking stick today here in Tolosa because yesterday I was pretty close falling on my face.
@VNwalking is the best company to walk with!
And I love her eye for detail on the Camino and in her writings here.
I really fell in love with the Basque Country and with the people in particular.
A real joy!
Awww!...We were so touched by people who wished us a buen camino - and at one point someone stopped his car to call out directions when we were heading into one of the towns...
Hmmm. I knew that was a hard stage.I hitched a couple of elderly pilgrims that were on the way to a funeral mass for another pilgrim
That was at blai, here in Beasain.And the food looks amazing, those tempura-like battered vegetables, I hope to have lots of those. I’m not sure if I’ll miss Besaín or not, can’t remember how the alternatives go, but tell me the name of the bar just in case
Day 2 Astgarraga to Tolosa 22.85 km
A very different day from yesterday, almost all on asphalt or cement cycle and waking paths, following the Rio Oria in the last part of the walk. The path went in and out of towns and often alongside the railway - and as it was Saturday there were many people to say a cheery 'Hola!' to. We were so touched by people who wished us a buen camino - and at one point someone stopped his car to call out directions when we were heading into one of the towns.
We had a fantastic second breakfast at Bar Anaiak, one of the cafes next the church in Andoain. Highly recommended! Andoain also had a big suprise: outdoor escalators! There are some hills on the Frsnces that could use a few of these!
The weather was a bit better, though still spitting from time to time - but it was so nice not to be wet rats at the end of the day.
Laurie...this stage - and probably the next one - are the kind you were thinking about when looking for alternatives. Our feet were whining about the hard surface by the time we got to Tolosa. Probably 99.9999% On hard sirfaces. But at least it was relatively flat!
well, as you are grounded now, have a look at Rick's post in the not serious, about maths. such a comment on how loopy this world can become. You two dear ladies are in no danger of such looniness! Buen Camino!We have washed up on the shores of the fabulous albergue in Beasain...it is...well, we are speechless, but both had lumps in our throsts with gratitude. The couple who are hospis here came up to me in the street a while ago to give directions...SO friendly!. It's in an old mill, beautiful as can be...with a faclities and no bunks.
A short day today in the pouring rain. I got an umbrella last night in a chino shop in Tolosa and was very glad to have it.
Same surfaces as yesterday, but with the short stage we feel fresher. Woth all the rain, the river is getting higher and more angry. And as we move up the valley of course it's getting narrower. Today reminded me of a cross between the Baztan and the Valcarce on the Frances - following the road and rail lines, both not far away but not intrusive - but with gorgeous very prosperous looking towns.
And we just has another stellar meal of pinxos at a place called 'blai' on the camino about 400 meters from here.
Life is good. Especially now that we are clean and dry.
Lola and Luis, hospis extraordinaire!
That was at blai, here in Beasain.
You'd be nuts to miss this place. The albergue in Zegama is in the gym.....
Thank you, Laurie. Only on weekend is the bad part; we are some days out of sync for that.But here’s a little temptation — I see in my notes that I had found that there is a romanesque jewel, Nuestra Señora de Estibaliz, a few km off route. The turnoff comes about 16 km after Salvatierra.
We are warned, @jpflavin1 and @KinkyOne, thank you!
Go left after the tunnel.
Is there a flecha marking the fork?
P.s. I think @LTfit is soon to embark on the camino, so with Nuala on the Madrid, there are now four of the Vasco 6 out and about, though only two are on the Vasco!
I found a couple of photos that might clear the fog on this.We are warned, @jpflavin1 and @KinkyOne, thank you!
Go left after the tunnel.
Is there a flecha marking the fork?
Very helpful, K1. To be clear about your photo: did you take this from the downhill side of the clearing? That is, is this the view as you approach the intersection from below or are you off to one side?After a little bit more of ascent you'll come to this point in one small clearing:
Approaching the intersection. Same with Roman road.Very helpful, K1. To be clear about your photo: did you take this from the downhill side of the clearing? That is, is this the view as you approach the intersection from below or are you off to one side?
Got myself a walking stick today here in Tolosa because yesterday I was pretty close falling on my face.
No, we look more like pilgrims.@SabineP and @VNwalking, is this you both in the street photo?
Beautiful Pictures. Hope you have a dry day tomorrowNo, we look more like pilgrims.
Day 4 Beasain - Zegama 12.8 km
A very short day today, with the first sun in days. It was a cool foggy start, but the moisture burned off after 5k.
I was walking alone out of Beasain, and immediately took a wrong turn having missed the waymark while dodging a kid on a scooter. Rescue came 100 meters down the path by a guy who called out from a carpark next to the pedestrian path, "Hey, peregrina, where are you going?" Then he told me I could get here that way but it was the very long way. So many locals seem to be delighted to see peregrinas, and we've been really touched the the many kind greetings. I also had an older lady talking at me in Euskera but I could receive the heartfelt greeting anyway.
Before the amazing town of Segura, the walk is mostly heavy industry, but after that it is a Basque idyll, with beautiful houses, fields with sheep lazing in the sun, and a bubbling stream nearby. For a while, the path goes in and through a riparian woodland of oak and maple, which is such a welcome relief from the riparian factories in the early part of the walk. And a heart-warming sight, hearing the very loud clucking of a hen and looking over to see her crossing a chicken bridge. The clucking stopped when she hit terra firma...fear of heights, perhaps?
Segura was so beautiful, with a big crop of 15th and 16th C. buildings. So I spent an absurd amount of time there, gawking with my mouth hanging open. Thete is a lot of prosperity in this region, and there clearly has been for quite for a long time.
Then a gentle entry to Zegama, which feels very different - it is a mountain town. Coming around the corner, you get your first glimse of what's ahead. Just. Tomorrow will be interesting.
But we will be off pavement for the first time since before Santiagomendi, on the first day. Today's path stuck close to roads, but for some reason it didn't feel oppressive. It was very pleasant after Segura, as things got more and more rural.
Here in Zegama, we met up with a Catalan pilgrim who described the albergue in the school gym as a 'disaster,' full of screaming kids (as it would be at this time of day). So as we're wanting to rest before tomorrow's exertions, we are in the pension next to the plaza. It's gorgeous...and reasonable.
Now we wait for lunch - the pinxos have been fabulous, but it will be really nice to have a regular menu del dia.
No but it looked close. In Sabine's pic below (the 4th one) you can see it nestled in the hill in the middle distsnce.I take it you did not go up from Segura to Zeraín?
Yes, and ok. I ate meat for the first tlme in years, feeling an uncharacteristic need for some decent quality protein, and pasta would not have satisfied that....Tunnel tomorrow, right?! Hope your menú del día is a great one.
Love the pictures. Thanks for posting. Take care of yourselfHi everyone,
Finally time for me to pop in. I am the technophobic pilgrim with too thick fingers to type elegantly on this phone.
Well my fitbittracker told me I did 13.5k. from the albergue.
Seems Vira and I came into this town from a different route.
Today was such a nice walk even on asphalt. You can really see the landscape is changing.
People still are as charming as the last three days, even if I can't always fully
understand what they are saying. But that might be my tiredness.
Yesterday evening I suddenly got a cough, shivers and general cold.
Better today but not wow. So will see what this night brings otherwise I will stay on the safe side and take a bus. Even if this means that I will miss a gorgeous etapa. But underway there is no chance of taking bus or taxi. So listening to body is important.
Am getting better at this looking after myself....
@VNwalking and I are a bit worried about the whereabouts of a fellow New Zealand pilgrim because until now he did not show up. Will do an inquiry later.
Well today is my birthday and let me tell you there is no better way to spend it with my " compagnon de route" in this cozy pension.
I especially like the fact that we do not have that urgent need to talk all the time to each other.
We said hi in the local bar here because the owners are the parents of the young girl who works at the bar in Tolosa where we were Saturday. The girl said we should go and say hi so we did.
No but it looked close. In Sabine's pic below (the 4th one) you can see it nestled in the hill in the middle distsnce.
Yes, and ok. I ate meat for the first tlme in years, feeling an uncharacteristic need for some decent quality protein, and pasta would not have satisfied that....
Or maybe I'm just nervous about the tunel - I am.
Oh, and the distance - we walked here direct rather than through Idiázabal, hence the shorter stage. And no Idiázabal cheese...yet.
My mistake. I can't coumt. The 6th picture.And VN, if I'm looking at the correct "4th picture" I see no buildings other than that big beitge buildng right on the same level in front of all the hills
I love that!I especially like the fact that we do not have that urgent need to talk all the time to each other.
I do recall seeing the first marker. I do not recall seeing the second. That said, visibility was awful with fog and sleet. It was also in 2012, markings might have been different.I found a couple of photos that might clear the fog on this.
First of all stock up on water at the beginning of the stage because the first fountain is just before the San Adrian Tunnel as already said.
After the tunnel (which is actually the cave) with Ermita you'll come out in the clearing and see Roman road (and the flecha is visible):
View attachment 57572
After a little bit more of ascent you'll come to this point in one small clearing:
View attachment 57573
So generally going straight (grass in the sun) and veering slightly to the left is the way to go. Don't go to the right here. Soon you'll be descending through forest and from there on is easy.
Only one more turn off from the tarmac much later to the righthand side (already in the flat) which could be flooded. As I remember checking the map it is slightly shorter but I stayed on the tarmac because of the mud. Soon you'll be in Zalduondo where is a bar (to the right next to the church) with very odd opening hours. And then it's almost straight tarmac slog into Salvatierra/Agurain. Albergue is easy to find. You just find Plaza Mayor, cross it, turn right onto major road and you'll see this house by the sports center to your right:
View attachment 57574
Ultreia!
Hahaha, that was exactly my bed to the left from your backpack in 2016. I took a shower on that day thoughA very decent albergue municipal. 5 €. Keys to collect at adjacent polideportivo. In Salvatierra.
Feel a bit of a fraud staying here but seeing it is only three of us and not fully occupied I guess it is ok.
Wating for my two fellow pilgrims.
In such weather the only good thing up there is the tunnel itselfI do recall seeing the first marker. I do not recall seeing the second. That said, visibility was awful with fog and sleet. It was also in 2012, markings might have been different.
Joe
You are no fraud
I sure was!!!! Because Sabine wss so incredibly kind to take some of my things, I could walk today with kilos less on my back. And it made a huge difference. All the same I missrd her wonderful company...she IS a true peregrina!I bet VN is blessing you for having lightened her load today
The path was very well waymarked, both on the way up and only slightly less on the way down. Some of the waymarking looked pretty new, in fact.markings might have been different.
Thanks for catching that, K1. I was too tired to write carefully - I meant the houses and towns look Spanish...and once we get out of Alava, they will be.....But for days you'll still walk through Basque Country
Thank you! Surprisingly not too bad. I dawdled and took lots of photos and still got here at a bit after 3. What was tiring was finding the polideportivo for the key. I asked 2 people and got 2 answers...and did a face plant jn the process of looking, so now look a bit like cyclops. Fortunately no real harm done, just an egg above my left eye.....Salutations! @VNwalking ... long day?
Sabine should've waited for you with a cold beer or vino tinto in the Plaza Mayor. From there it's easy. I mean it's easy anyway once you've been thereThank you! Surprisingly not too bad. I dawdled and took lots of photos and still got here at a bit after 3. What was tiring was finding the polideportivo for the key. I asked 2 people and got 2 answers...and did a face plant jn the process of looking, so now look a bit like cyclops. Fortunately no real harm done, just an egg above my left eye.....
Word to the wise. Pick your feet up in town , too, not just on funky calzadas romanas!
Oh nooo, I was never going to walk the Vasco but your seductive posts now mean I'll probably have to go there next year. I hate you VN.
I don't want to spoil your upcoming Vasco with too many photos but at least these two I have to postOh, gorgeous, just gorgeous. I am so sorry that Sabine was unable to walk. Hope you are feeling better and can carry on with VN tomorrow!
Hmm, it might be time to tone it down a bit amigas. We loved the uncluttered tranquility of the Vasco. If the @alansykes fan club get there it gonna start getting crowdedOh nooo, I was never going to walk the Vasco but your seductive posts now mean I'll probably have to go there next year. I hate you VN.
Wow, Kinky, what a memory you have!Hahaha, that was exactly my bed to the left from your backpack in 2016. I took a shower on that day though
Agree, it's nice albergue although them showers in a garage are a bit odd. But I've seen worse
Enjoy!
PS (There's a supermercado on the righhand side if you are returning back to Playa Mayor. Maybe a bit hidden off the main street but very close to the albergue.)
Amazing, isn't it. Despite all the beer and orujo blanco I can still remember where exactly I was defeatedWow, Kinky, what a memory you have!
Ah, but without the sore feet!almost like being there
Yes, pretty well. We had a super cheap flight though and I always struggle sleeping, so I usually try to binge on movies instead. Well, this airline had no movie screens! They offered an app with a few choices to use on your phone, but I didn't do it. I was sitting next to a huge football player type of guy, too. Kinda claustrophobic. But, it just shows how spoiled we can sometimes be...Ah, but without the sore feet!
Hope your journey home went well, Chris...
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