For 2024 Pilgrims: €50,- donation = 1 year with no ads on the forum + 90% off any 2024 Guide. More here. (Discount code sent to you by Private Message after your donation) |
---|
Wish you a nice Camino and please keep us posted how it goes, Alan!Tonight I stay in San Jaume d'Enveja, where Santiago is believed to have left Spain for the last time. I hope to follow the Ebro northwards for a couple of 100 miles, then across Soria's campo undulado, past Santo Domingo de Silos, on to Burgos, over the hills, preferably passing Fontibre, so I can see the river's source as well as its estuary, and on to the coast, continuing by the Norte. Ideally ending up in Padrón, where Santiago's body is said to have returned to Spain.
We shall see.
Just for pleasure. No guidebook for the first time, which is nervous-making, so relying on Peter Robbins' maps as well as Stephen Nicholls and "ramblanista" from this forum who, between them, have walked most of the way from the coast to Gallur, and warned of possible problems. And zinaztli, a bicigrino, has done a great blog of Gallur to Burgos. Thereafter mostly busking it, although I may go backwards on your olvidado wikiloc trail for a couple of days around Reinosa.OH, wow, Alan, is this an official Guardian trip or are you on your own? Know that your readership on the forum is just as adoring and hangs on your every word, so keep us posted. This camino is also on my list, I love the idea of walking to Santo Domingo de Silos. What are you using as a guidebook, if anything? Buen camino to you, Laurie
In the civil war song "y sabes mi paradero", a line says that, in la venta de Gandesa, the first course is hand grenades, followed by shrapnel. Fortunately the menú has improved since then, and last night I had a good soup followed by a tasty bit of merluza.
A lazy morning waiting for the museum to open, but definitely worth the delay. Excellent displays, decent interpretation, helpful staff. It must have been horrific, especially in the summer heat. Great admiration for those who left their privileged comfortable lives to go and fight and die in a foreign country - over 50 countries were represented in the International Brigade at the Ebro, which the Gandesa tourist people say was the bloodiest battle ever fought in Spain.
Then on for the short trip to Batea, a charming hill town smelling strongly of raw wine must as the recently harvested grapes are turned into delicious Terra Alta DOC.
The bus ride on that route is very interesting; some rugged hills, some hills, some very dry flat stuff. Buen camino!past Santo Domingo de Silos, on to Burgos, over the hills,
Ouch. I don't think it matters much what time it happens, adding over an hour extra is never pleasant. Had it happen on a local walk here earlier in the year when a distance event advertised as 50km turned into 54 km. If nothing else, it ruins one's arrival time estimates for a suitable place to enjoy that next refreshment!According to wikiloc, today I covered 43km, which is at the end of my comfort zone - mundicamino etc led me to expect 37, and 6 more may not be a lot, but at 5pm on a hot afternoon, it feels it.
Well done! I can barely type "43km" much less walk it! Keep it up.today I covered 43km, which is at the end of my comfort zone
You are making your route sound very appealing! I took a side trip from Jaca to Zaragoza on the train, and loved the city.
Hats off to you both @alansykes & @peregrina2000 ,
I'm all through and through republicano, even walked with the flag of International Brigades (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inter...a/File:Flag_of_the_International_Brigades.svg) on the front of my castro cap for last two years. Some pretty funny moments in parroquial albergues
I have some family history regarding this although not around Ebro, rather around Toledo where fierce battles were also fought.
Laurie, I don't know why your link doesn't work, but here's another one:
(for the same song)
And here another one from that "same" time (it's from a concert in the biggest concert hall in Slovenia):
(in the second half it's lyrics in Slovenian!)
Victoria Siempre!
Y Ultreia!!!
Thanks, Kevin!Wow Incredible. Thanks so much Kinks. Spanish or Slovenian - amazing! Like Alan and Laurie I have enormous sympathy for the "losing" side in the Civil War. Lovely to see that the songs and culture are still alive! I think the verision by the American girl, alone on an acoustic guitar is also great. I hope you have seen it. Best. Kev. (Incidentallly with Laurie, I've just published a new walking guide for the Mozarabe from Almeria to Granada - see Camino Mozarabe)
My goodness, you're bringing back the memories of last May!In Alagón, .... An hour or so later, at a bend in the river, the Camino takes you through Alcalá de Ebro....... Now in Gallur.....
From photos in Google Earth, it appears they are blocked to motor vehicles - cyclists might be the major problem!Was there much traffic?
All I can say is WOW!
This is definitely on my list for next year.
Point me to the guidebook?
I have but one questions... on those days through the tunnels.
It looks pretty scary.
Was there much traffic?
Hi, Annie, I know you've been having your happy dance lately, and this is going to be mine -- Ruta del Ebro in 2016, as soon as I can spend the time to buy the tickets!
I will definitely be putting together whatever material I can find and will try to make it generally available, but that won't be for another year.
There is no traffic - cars etc are banned! But I walked it on a Bank Holiday and there were literally hundreds of cyclists. As my diary says, it was an old railway route, but now the tracks are all gone but the surface has been made very good. Take a torch for the very long tunnel. They are solar powered but the lights can go out when you're half way through!
View attachment 22694 View attachment 22695
Eventually you reach a beautiful spot in the mountains - Fontcalda with excellent accommodation ....
View attachment 22696
A beautiful camino!
La Fontcalda IS on the camino! Well - I certainly hope so!! At that point the camino follows exactly the Via Verda. You can check out my diary on my web - and links to all 400 photos! The diary includes ...... "What a frenetic, strange place! There were literally hundreds of cyclists and visitors. I didn’t think this was ‘normal’ – but because it was a Bank Holiday May 1st and they had three fiesta days as well. Maybe I was lucky to get the room for the night.Stephen, just a question -- is that last picture taken while on the Camino, or is it off and around La Fontcalda somewhere? And where did you stay? Muchas gracias, Laurie
Thanks, Stephen, I have already read and enjoyed your blog, the pictures are very enticing! I didn't ask my question very clearly, sorry -- what I meant to ask you was whether that picture of the canyon with water running through it is on the camino itself. Since I probably won't be stopping in La Fontcalda, I was just wondering whether I'd have to take a litle detour or whether the arrows will take me to that lovely spot. It is just beautiful! Buen camino, LaurieLa Fontcalda IS on the camino! Well - I certainly hope so!! At that point the camino follows exactly the Via Verda. You can check out my diary on my web - and links to all 400 photos! The diary includes ...... "What a frenetic, strange place! There were literally hundreds of cyclists and visitors. I didn’t think this was ‘normal’ – but because it was a Bank Holiday May 1st and they had three fiesta days as well. Maybe I was lucky to get the room for the night.
Near to the Canaletes river, surrounded by holm oaks, pine groves and calcareous cliffs, you reach La Fontcalda. This magnificent natural, green area, is located in Gandesa. Its name is linked to the presence of a fountain of medicinal water that gushes at 28 degrees, just to the left of the Canaletes River.
La Fontcalda Sanctuary was built in the 14th century, although the current neoclassic church was built in the 18th century. In 1936, during the Spanish Civil war, the sanctuary was burned down and the baroque altar with an image of the Virgin Mary was destroyed.
In the church square there are two guest houses, with a bar and restaurant. There is also a recreational area with stone tables, toilets and showers. You can swim in some parts of the river. Cyclists enjoy stopping at La Fontcalda Sanctuary, as it is situated close to the Via Verda de la Terra Alta (Green Trail), which follows the ancient Vall de Zafán railway, which used to connect Tortosa (Baix Ebre) and La Puebla de Híjar (Aragón).
The buildings around the restaurant had once been a mill: in some places you could see the old mill stones, and the water race which once powered the mill."
Just to give you one more picture of the old mill building and the water race ....
View attachment 22698
Hope that helps, Laurie: I don't want to bore you with lots of pictures and wordage!
Oh man. Oh man. I'd do it this year but I couldn't go until June 2 and it looks like it would be too hot then. Right?There is no traffic - cars etc are banned! But I walked it on a Bank Holiday and there were literally hundreds of cyclists. As my diary says, it was an old railway route, but now the tracks are all gone but the surface has been made very good. Take a torch for the very long tunnel. They are solar powered but the lights can go out when you're half way through!
View attachment 22694 View attachment 22695
Eventually you reach a beautiful spot in the mountains - Fontcalda with excellent accommodation ....
View attachment 22696
A beautiful camino!
Have replied on our 'conversation' ... but basically said:Oh man. Oh man. I'd do it this year but I couldn't go until June 2 and it looks like it would be too hot then. Right?
Hi Laurie!...... what I meant to ask you was whether that picture of the canyon with water running through it is on the camino itself. Since I probably won't be stopping in La Fontcalda, I was just wondering whether I'd have to take a litle detour or whether the arrows will take me to that lovely spot. It is just beautiful! Buen camino, Laurie
Hello Alan,
Thank you for writing about your Camino. I was wondering if you can help me....is there any accommodation at or near the Santuare de la Fontcalda?
Bon Camino
A little way off the camino is the Balneario de la Fontcalda, a hot spring that was very pleasant to relax in. When I was there, a bar was open that served drinks and tapas, and there was what looked like an hotel but as I was passing by at c11am I didn't check whether I could stay the night there. It was a very beautiful and special place, used as a hospital/recovery centre by the republicans during the war.Hello Alan,
Thank you for writing about your Camino. I was wondering if you can help me....is there any accommodation at or near the Santuare de la Fontcalda?
Bon Camino
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?