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This copy is about 75% larger and easier to read: http://www.aucoeurduchemin.org/local/cache-vignettes/L600xH850/img-a2aaf.jpgHere is a copy of the map the SJPdP Pilgrim Office will give you.
I just blundered onto a PDF file that has a copy of the map even five times larger: http://www.xacobeo.fr/ZE1.11.Aqu.Nav.SJPP-Ron.Cize.pdfThis copy is about 75% larger and easier to read: http://www.aucoeurduchemin.org/local/cache-vignettes/L600xH850/img-a2aaf.jpg
There are a number of taxis in SJPdP all charging about 50 euros to get to Roncevalles. This may be cheaper than changing any travel plans you may have already made.Why don't you reduce the worry by starting in Roncesvalles? There is no particular virtue in starting in SJPP, especially if you are concerned about safety.
That much! The husband wants to start at SJPdP - we would like to at least walk to Valcarlos - can we get a taxi from there to Roncevalles?There are a number of taxis in SJPdP all charging about 50 euros to get to Roncevalles. This may be cheaper than changing any travel plans you may have already made.
That much! The husband wants to start at SJPdP - we would like to at least walk to Valcarlos - can we get a taxi from there to Roncevalles?
Actually, the Valcarlos albergue seemed to be in the same building of a kindergarten...If your children are quite young the yard (not quite a cloister) at Valcarlos is big and would be a great place to play.
Taxi from Valcarlos to where the camino goes into the forest is a very good suggestion.I think there is a two hours walk from Valcarlos to the point where the Camino enters the wood -with a previous detour by a dirt path and the picturesque Gainekoleta village.
Almost no shoulder, so you have to walk mostly in the road proper. See a photo here
I felt uneasy, but not particularly worried. Traffic was scarce and drivers careful. I used to wave to them, both for politeness and as a way to tell them "hey, I am here".
About walking there with a little children...well, parents always know better. Maybe you can take a taxi from Valcarlos to the point where the Camino goes into the forest; I remember a place where cars could stop.
I walked this alternative in mid-March, and it was cold, with a light rain, perfectly doable. It had snowed heavily a couple of days before, but there were only traces left.
It was a solo walk, with nobody in sight -but this could have changed, since the Napoleon route is closed in March.
When I was arriving at Ibañeta chapel (that's the point where you can tell to yourself "ok, I made it"), there was a moment of sunshine, birds started to chirp and everything looked brighter. It was only some instants, but I felt as I was being welcomed. In general terms, this stage is one that I particularly liked, one of the best.
I recommend you stop at Valcarlos -a pleasant, kind Basque village.
Buen camino!
Yes, you are right, Felipe; right up at the top of the stairs!Actually, the Valcarlos albergue seemed to be in the same building of a kindergarten...
Taxi from Valcarlos to where the camino goes into the forest is a very good suggestion.
Here's some more pics. Not quite as dangerous as it looks because the steepness and number of bends means that traffic travels slower than usual. At many bends it is not possible for pilgrim, car going down and car going up to all pass at the same time. Only happened to me the once and the car going up gave way and waited for me to get around the bend. My contingency plan at one stage was to join the tiny little ponies on the other side of the guard rail.It's a lovely walk and once I got over the surprise about how little room there was on the edge of the road I got used to it quite quickly.
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