Rita Flower
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- Time of past OR future Camino
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Headed to Sevilla to start the VLDP in 2 weeks and I am gratified to hear your report. Not much on this form about this particular branch of the Camino and I hope that you will continue to post.Well I made it to Day 9 and am having a rest day in Zafra at the lovely Albergue de Zafra (Vincent Van Gogh). They are happy to give you a second night here which was a real blessing. From observation and reports there are between 3- 9 pilgrims coming through every day.
The weather is cool in the morning and continues to heat up through out the day (first few days the max was up to 35) - so it has been early starts and finishing as close to midday as possible. We have had some cooler days as we move north but the weather forecast looks hot again for the coming week.
It’s taken me a while to sort my pack and feel organised, and to start to get some real trail fitness - still a bit of a work in progress.
This Camino has been a lesson in humility - it seems that everything that could go wrong has gone wrong. The list - one of my new fold up poles kept falling apart (thanks Rob for the gaffer tape suggestion), twisted my ankle on day 2, camel back leaked down my back, have had terrible hay fever (too much dust and wheat stubble), thought I lost my bag with all documents etc (fell behind the bed) and even got a blister. However every problem did get solved.
The good news is that I have walked with and been looked after by wonderful, kind and fun people, seen stunning sunrises, stayed in clean comfortable albergues, eaten some great meals and am feeling lighter and stronger each day. The umbrella I brought has been fabulous - I can feel that I am less dehydrated under it. I have had a good rest in Zafra and feel ready for the next stage.
Still a long way to Santiago - one step, one day at a time.
Buen Camino
PS Zafra has its agricultural show on at the moment (which is huge) so all other accomodation is booked. I spent a bit of time there today and watched the horses. I was amazed at the open air BBQ - paella, pulpo, and all sorts of meat and sausage as well as chips and veges- all cooked in giant pans over hot coals. Not cheap but delicious and amazing.
PPS - tried to drop some photos in but I don’t seem to be able to do that from my phone
Yes I will - especially if someone is interested.Headed to Sevilla to start the VLDP in 2 weeks and I am gratified to hear your report. Not much on this form about this particular branch of the Camino and I hope that you will continue to post.
I walked last October and started around the 14th. It was still really hot when I got to Zafra. Closer to highs about 31 or 32. I too stayed at that albergue for 2 nights as I had a stomach thing. Went there because they had a kitchen but alas it was closed like just about every other kitchen last year. Claire cooked for me and I have to say Claire and Antonio couldn't have been nicer or more welcoming. It is a long way to go. Just take it one step at a time. That is all you have!!!!Well I made it to Day 9 and am having a rest day in Zafra at the lovely Albergue de Zafra (Vincent Van Gogh). They are happy to give you a second night here which was a real blessing. From observation and reports there are between 3- 9 pilgrims coming through every day.
The weather is cool in the morning and continues to heat up through out the day (first few days the max was up to 35) - so it has been early starts and finishing as close to midday as possible. We have had some cooler days as we move north but the weather forecast looks hot again for the coming week.
It’s taken me a while to sort my pack and feel organised, and to start to get some real trail fitness - still a bit of a work in progress.
This Camino has been a lesson in humility - it seems that everything that could go wrong has gone wrong. The list - one of my new fold up poles kept falling apart (thanks Rob for the gaffer tape suggestion), twisted my ankle on day 2, camel back leaked down my back, have had terrible hay fever (too much dust and wheat stubble), thought I lost my bag with all documents etc (fell behind the bed) and even got a blister. However every problem did get solved.
The good news is that I have walked with and been looked after by wonderful, kind and fun people, seen stunning sunrises, stayed in clean comfortable albergues, eaten some great meals and am feeling lighter and stronger each day. The umbrella I brought has been fabulous - I can feel that I am less dehydrated under it. I have had a good rest in Zafra and feel ready for the next stage.
Still a long way to Santiago - one step, one day at a time.
Buen Camino
PS Zafra has its agricultural show on at the moment (which is huge) so all other accomodation is booked. I spent a bit of time there today and watched the horses. I was amazed at the open air BBQ - paella, pulpo, and all sorts of meat and sausage as well as chips and veges- all cooked in giant pans over hot coals. Not cheap but delicious and amazing.
PPS - tried to drop some photos in but I don’t seem to be able to do that from my phone
Hi RitaYes I will - especially if someone is interested.
I am walking alone today out of Zafra - my best day so far
Apart from hayfever all is great today.
Note - the Albergue in Villafranca de loa BorrosHeaded to Sevilla to start the VLDP in 2 weeks and I am gratified to hear your report. Not much on this form about this particular branch of the Camino and I hope that you will continue to post.
The albergue in Villafranca de los Barros is closed at least today. I got.Headed to Sevilla to start the VLDP in 2 weeks and I am gratified to hear your report. Not much on this form about this particular branch of the Camino and I hope that you will continue to post.
oh yes - have been on the antihistamines. Brought some with me and will get more if needed. I am much better now and hopefully will improve as we head north.Hi Rita
We are always interested.. It’s always enjoyable following the posts.
Re the hayfever- do you have antihistamines? I picked some up in May from the farmacia.
Buen camino
I am planning the Sanabres. I will read up on that route. I presume the albergues you mention are on the Sanabres. I would love to revisit the Frances via Astoria but am put off by the crowds and apparent problems with accomodation. I got caught this weekend - the fiesta in Zafra affected accomodation for miles around and both albergues I was relying on were closed - I don’t want that experience again.Are you going to do the Sanabres or are you going to walk up to Astorga? There is lots og good info on the LIVE on the VdlP threads we were posting this spring. They might be helpful. The albergues in Galicia, many of which have been rebuilt or renovated, are fabulous.
Hi Rita
We are always interested.. It’s always enjoyable following the posts.
Re the hayfever- do you have antihistamines? I picked some up in May from the farmacia.
Buen camino
PS if anyone is interested in my FindPenguins blog please message me directly and I can send you the link.Well I made it to Day 9 and am having a rest day in Zafra at the lovely Albergue de Zafra (Vincent Van Gogh). They are happy to give you a second night here which was a real blessing. From observation and reports there are between 3- 9 pilgrims coming through every day.
The weather is cool in the morning and continues to heat up through out the day (first few days the max was up to 35) - so it has been early starts and finishing as close to midday as possible. We have had some cooler days as we move north but the weather forecast looks hot again for the coming week.
It’s taken me a while to sort my pack and feel organised, and to start to get some real trail fitness - still a bit of a work in progress.
This Camino has been a lesson in humility - it seems that everything that could go wrong has gone wrong. The list - one of my new fold up poles kept falling apart (thanks Rob for the gaffer tape suggestion), twisted my ankle on day 2, camel back leaked down my back, have had terrible hay fever (too much dust and wheat stubble), thought I lost my bag with all documents etc (fell behind the bed) and even got a blister. However every problem did get solved.
The good news is that I have walked with and been looked after by wonderful, kind and fun people, seen stunning sunrises, stayed in clean comfortable albergues, eaten some great meals and am feeling lighter and stronger each day. The umbrella I brought has been fabulous - I can feel that I am less dehydrated under it. I have had a good rest in Zafra and feel ready for the next stage.
Still a long way to Santiago - one step, one day at a time.
Buen Camino
PS Zafra has its agricultural show on at the moment (which is huge) so all other accomodation is booked. I spent a bit of time there today and watched the horses. I was amazed at the open air BBQ - paella, pulpo, and all sorts of meat and sausage as well as chips and veges- all cooked in giant pans over hot coals. Not cheap but delicious and amazing.
PPS - tried to drop some photos in but I don’t seem to be able to do that from my phone
You said that the albergue was reporting three to nine people passing through every day. And that you had seen only one other pilgrim yesterday. Is one per day typical or do you see more, as was reported by the albergue? Also, is the VDLP as well marked as the French and Portuguese Caminos? I've done those and they were wonderful, but I'm a little nervous about the long, lonely walk that I am about to undertake.Yes I will - especially if someone is interested.
I am walking alone today out of Zafra - my best day so far and have only sighted one other pilgrim. There is great coffee in the lovely little town 4 km out of Zafra.
I usually walk slowly with lots of stops so the first week was really hard trying to get finished before the shocking heat hit in the afternoon. Hopefully it will be cooler when you start.
All the albergues have blankets so far but I have a sleeping bag for further on when blankets may not be available.
Right now I am sitting by the side of a dirt track in the olive groves having lunch.
Apart from hayfever all is great today.
Buen Camino
Headed to Sevilla to start the VLDP in 2 weeks and I am gratified to hear your report. Not much on this form about this particular branch of the Camino and I hope that you will continue to
Join the pre nerves club. I was feeling the same.You said that the albergue was reporting three to nine people passing through every day. And that you had seen only one other pilgrim yesterday. Is one per day typical or do you see more, as was reported by the albergue? Also, is the VDLP as well marked as the French and Portuguese Caminos? I've done those and they were wonderful, but I'm a little nervous about the long, lonely walk that I am about to undertake.
Oh Claire and Antonio are the best. Looked after me so well. The kitchen is now open by arrangement.I walked last October and started around the 14th. It was still really hot when I got to Zafra. Closer to highs about 31 or 32. I too stayed at that albergue for 2 nights as I had a stomach thing. Went there because they had a kitchen but alas it was closed like just about every other kitchen last year. Claire cooked for me and I have to say Claire and Antonio couldn't have been nicer or more welcoming. It is a long way to go. Just take it one step at a time. That is all you have!!!!
Was just working out how to get out of Mérida and found this blog I had saved but hadn’t looked at yet for this Camino. It has a great map and shows the routes out of town in detail.You said that the albergue was reporting three to nine people passing through every day. And that you had seen only one other pilgrim yesterday. Is one per day typical or do you see more, as was reported by the albergue? Also, is the VDLP as well marked as the French and Portuguese Caminos? I've done those and they were wonderful, but I'm a little nervous about the long, lonely walk that I am about to undertake.
There is great coffee in the lovely little town 4 km out of Zafra
I’m already impressed with your starting from Almaria!!I’m starting the VdeLP from Seville tomorrow after a bus ride from Granada having walked from Almaria Staying at Triana Backpackers, which is immaculate. The temperature today must be nearly 30 degrees which is a lot more than I expected.
Walking in Sept\Oct does pose some problems, I’m packing clothes for hot/wet/cold which doesn’t help with pack weight, and as I head north will probably need them, just wish I’d been a little more analytical with my gear selection.
PS. Hi Rita glad to see you are doing so well.
Yes, the great albergues in Galicia are on the Sanabres. As I am sure you know, the Sanabres is considerably more hilly than the VdlP. Having said that, it is also very beautiful. The number of pilgrims increase substantially from Ourense onward. For us that was partly because it was Easter as well as it is 100km to SdC. If I were you I would look into whether or not the crowds on the French will be as big that late in the season.I am planning the Sanabres. I will read up on that route. I presume the albergues you mention are on the Sanabres. I would love to revisit the Frances via Astoria but am put off by the crowds and apparent problems with accomodation. I got caught this weekend - the fiesta in Zafra affected accomodation for miles around and both albergues I was relying on were closed - I don’t want that experience again.
Wow, this map looks great. More useful than the ones in my "Walking Guide to the Via de la Plata 2022." I feel better already. Thanks for posting!Was just working out how to get out of Mérida and found this blog I had saved but hadn’t looked at yet for this Camino. It has a great map and shows the routes out of town in detail.
Via de la Plata
The Via de la Plata, one of the longest pilgrimage routes to Santiago, at approximately 1000 km, is a solitary and historic walk, almost impossible in the summer months.www.pilgrimagetraveler.com
Ended up taking the bus to Mérida and getting what seemed to be the last private bed there as the albergue was closed for the night. Not part of my plan but ….Hi Rita, Alhambra is not to be missed as is the Cathedral.(but the crowds are something else)
Tomorrow early start, coffee + cake at Camas, Aguarus at Santiponce, then head down and go for it.
How did you manage at Villafranca da los Barros
Plus thanks for the ref to the pilgrimage traveller site
Hi Rita, I am enjoying reading your posts. We are planning to walk the VLDP in March 2023, after having to cancel in 2020 so it is good to get some current updates.Join the pre nerves club. I was feeling the same.
What I have found is that being less supported has led to some mistakes on my part but mainly led to me feeling more confident and slowly building my capacity. I speak a minuscule amount of Spanish but people are generally helpful. There always seems to be someone with a little English when I need it and the young kids are eager to share their knowledge. And I struggle on with Google translate.
I think numbers probably range between 0 and 7 on any one day. The Camino is mainly well marked. I haven’t been completely lost yet. It is trickier if you leave in the dark as the arrows can be hard to find - but really it seems as good as the Frances in 2007.
Just watch weekends in bigger towns and cities. I nearly got caught out last night in Mérida as the albergue was closed for the night for family reasons and the town was pretty much booked out. I think I got the last bed.
The main challenge in the first week is that you can walk 20+ km with no towns in between to encourage breaks. Now that I have started to take more roadside breaks it feels much easier. But you still need to carry more water and food than on the other two Caminos.
Am currently having a lovely restful Sunday in Mérida - the Roman ruins here are pretty impressive.
Buen Camino
Go well Rita, and thanks for the updates. Flying out tonight to Caceres pick up where I left of back in 2019. See you in Santiago in November maybe - Buen CaminoWell I made it to Day 9 and am having a rest day in Zafra at the lovely Albergue de Zafra (Vincent Van Gogh). They are happy to give you a second night here which was a real blessing. From observation and reports there are between 3- 9 pilgrims coming through every day.
The weather is cool in the morning and continues to heat up through out the day (first few days the max was up to 35) - so it has been early starts and finishing as close to midday as possible. We have had some cooler days as we move north but the weather forecast looks hot again for the coming week.
It’s taken me a while to sort my pack and feel organised, and to start to get some real trail fitness - still a bit of a work in progress.
This Camino has been a lesson in humility - it seems that everything that could go wrong has gone wrong. The list - one of my new fold up poles kept falling apart (thanks Rob for the gaffer tape suggestion), twisted my ankle on day 2, camel back leaked down my back, have had terrible hay fever (too much dust and wheat stubble), thought I lost my bag with all documents etc (fell behind the bed) and even got a blister. However every problem did get solved.
The good news is that I have walked with and been looked after by wonderful, kind and fun people, seen stunning sunrises, stayed in clean comfortable albergues, eaten some great meals and am feeling lighter and stronger each day. The umbrella I brought has been fabulous - I can feel that I am less dehydrated under it. I have had a good rest in Zafra and feel ready for the next stage.
Still a long way to Santiago - one step, one day at a time.
Buen Camino
PS Zafra has its agricultural show on at the moment (which is huge) so all other accomodation is booked. I spent a bit of time there today and watched the horses. I was amazed at the open air BBQ - paella, pulpo, and all sorts of meat and sausage as well as chips and veges- all cooked in giant pans over hot coals. Not cheap but delicious and amazing.
PPS - tried to drop some photos in but I don’t seem to be able to do that from my phone
Well I am just out of Casar de Cáseres tonight. You will probably catch up with me well before Santiago.Go well Rita, and thanks for the updates. Flying out tonight to Caceres pick up where I left of back in 2019. See you in Santiago in November maybe - Buen Camino
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