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Enjoy your hospitalero duties! Last night I stayed in the CSJ albergue in Miraz and it was nice to share our hospitalero experiences.We are on the train headed for our hospitalero duties at Canfranc Pueblo. We walked as pilgrims the first part of this trip on the Camino Aragones and a few days on the Camino Frances also spent a week being tourists in Spain for the first time in 6 trips here.
Our train journey from Zaragoza was about 11 euros each with a Tarjeta Dorada discount. You must purchase the TD in person (6 euros) at a Renfe station and show proper documentation that you are 60 or older. We've made multiple train journeys this trip so the card has paid for itself. We have been asked to show the card on several occasions when the ticket were bought online.
The train to Canfrac Estacion runs twice daily and takes about 4 hours. Because it is a regional train it makes many stops, but it is comfortable and has a bathroom on board. Bring your own snacks and drinks as there is no dining car. We boarded at 8:43 and should arrive at Canfranc Estacion at 12:30 or so.
We have notified the current hospitalera that we'll arrive this afternoon. We stayed as pilgrims at the albergue a few weeks ago so already know how to get there and bit about it.
I've always wondered why so few pilgrims walk from Somport/Canfranc compared with SJPDP. The slightly more difficult travel to the starting point doesn't seem enough to explain the vast difference in numbers. I have a copy of Elias Valiña's 1984 Camino guide and the Somport route is the first option he describes. SJPDP is the second choice.She says there really are not enough pilgrims staying at this beautiful albergue.
Camino AragonesWhat is the name of this route?
I've always wondered why so few pilgrims walk from Somport/Canfranc compared with SJPDP. The slightly more difficult travel to the starting point doesn't seem enough to explain the vast difference in numbers. I have a copy of Elias Valiña's 1984 Camino guide and the Somport route is the first option he describes. SJPDP is the second choice.
In the eighties British pilgrims almost all started from SJPDP. The Confraternity of St James published a very basic English-language guide (40 pages of A5 typescript) which assumed SJPDP as the start point. More of a supplement to Valiña's guidebook than a standalone guide. A separate CSJ guide was available for Arles to Puente la Reina but that was very much a road less travelled. I wonder why Brits and Belgians preferred different routes?Exactly. All the Belgian pilgrims I knew who walked in the eighties and nineties and started in France ( or Belgium ) never went via Saint Jean but always via Somport.
When did the shift start I wonder?
In the eighties British pilgrims almost all started from SJPDP. The Confraternity of St James published a very basic English-language guide (40 pages of A5 typescript) which assumed SJPDP as the start point. More of a supplement to Valiña's guidebook than a standalone guide. A separate CSJ guide was available for Arles to Puente la Reina but that was very much a road less travelled. I wonder why Brits and Belgians preferred different routes?
I counted and it looks like about 70 pilgrims total for the previous 15 days so I hope we can beat that!
My favourite Camino in SpainI've always wondered why so few pilgrims walk from Somport/Canfranc compared with SJPDP. The slightly more difficult travel to the starting point doesn't seem enough to explain the vast difference in numbers. I have a copy of Elias Valiña's 1984 Camino guide and the Somport route is the first option he describes. SJPDP is the second choice.
Depends where you decide to stop!My favourite Camino in Spain(so far). But it is short…
Glad you have found your way there safely! That albergue and the village are a treat, but the real treasure can be found in the lovely inhabitants of Canfranc (not just the people, but also all the cats, sheep, goats, dogs, and so on). It may be quiet, but you are there in the extremely busy season! Enjoy the “crowds”
Canfranc Pueblo is such a gem and I hold it in my heart. It’s such a special and beautiful place to serve as hospitaleros! Enjoy!Last night 7 pilgrims. One Italian, one French, 4 Spaniards and one from Argentina. The Spaniards and Argentinian were walking together. Looked like a fun Male bonding experience for 5 guys in their 50's and 60's!
After a stroll through town it is relatively clear that many of the dwellings are second homes or AirBNB type arrangements. Still lots of people about although I suspect it will be quieter on Monday.
Phil and I are hoping to make our first shopping trip for groceries for ourselves and the albergue tomorrow. We're lower on toilet paper than I am comfortable with and we need more fruit and whole milk. The non-fat or reduced fat milk doesn't appeal to this pilgrim crowd.
We got several calls yesterday from pilgrims and a few passersby. The rules at this albergue strictly state you must arrive unsupported by bus or car. It is also strictly for pilgrims. Otherwise I think we'd be overwhelmed with weekend hikers and people looking for a "cheap" place to stay.
Yes, one of the past hospitaleros was apparently feeding the "gatitos" so they are waiting in force every morning now when pilgrims leave. We enjoy the parade of chickens and ducks up and down and accross the street, too.Glad you have found your way there safely! That albergue and the village are a treat, but the real treasure can be found in the lovely inhabitants of Canfranc (not just the people, but also all the cats, sheep, goats, dogs, and so on). It may be quiet, but you are there in the extremely busy season! Enjoy the “crowds”
Sure. And with limited options, I was simply offering suggestions.Cloti, the last hosptalera, felt the prices for things were inflated at C. Estacion and Villanua which is why she recommended Jaca.
I walked the Aragones to Santiago as my second camino, beginning in Oloron Ste Marie and concluding in Santiago. I am considering walking it again next year, beginning somewhere on the Chemin d'Arles, maybe in Toulouse, where the airport facilitates travel from Canada. I do not think that I would likely stop overnight in Canfranc. The walking distances work for me from Somport to Canfranc Estacion, from there to Jaca, then on to San Juan de la Pena. And there is nothing to see in Canfranc but the new albergue. Unless I can get a position as a hospitalera in Canfranc, there are lots of gatitos to play with in other Spanish villages.
Hi @Albertagirl ,I walked the Aragones to Santiago as my second camino, beginning in Oloron Ste Marie and concluding in Santiago. I am considering walking it again next year, beginning somewhere on the Chemin d'Arles, maybe in Toulouse, where the airport facilitates travel from Canada. I do not think that I would likely stop overnight in Canfranc. The walking distances work for me from Somport to Canfranc Estacion, from there to Jaca, then on to San Juan de la Pena. And there is nothing to see in Canfranc but the new albergue. Unless I can get a position as a hospitalera in Canfranc, there are lots of gatitos to play with in other Spanish villages.
I stayed at the albergue in Santa Cilia when I walked that route previously. I never walked up or down the road, as I took a bus from Jaca, which took us to the upper monastery. The tourist office in Jaca told me about the bus going up to San Juan de la Pena that day, which was not actually on a regular schedule. I shall check with them when I get to Jaca. I had already heard about the closure of the new monastery hotel, but I have no way of knowing whether the bus from Jaca or the hotel at the new monastery, one or both, will be functioning when I again walk through. I am more committed to a return to the old monastery and can check with the tourist office in Jaca if it is open to visitors and what transportation there is available. I would be willing to walk down on the road, carefully, but have heard nothing good about the camino route.Hi @Albertagirl ,
If you were thinking of staying at the new monastery at San Juan de la Pena, the hotel is closed. Certainly don't take the Camino route down. Phil and I did a few weeks ago and it was terrible. Quitw dangerous,, so take the road.We stayed in Santa Cruz de los Seros in a rather luxurious place. There is a hostal, but no albergue there. Don't know if they are open all year. The albergue at Santa Cilia is open, but we did not stay there.
Thanks for your update and pics. This does indeed appear to be a perfect blend of your thoughtful hospitality, good materials and a great site. Wow!!
A chance to dress up in really old clothes.The big news of the day is that there will be a fair on Saturday and Sunday with a Camino Medieval Festival.
5 pm. No pilgrims yet.I was able to buy bus and train tickets this morning for our exit Aug 1. Our local contact says we can print tickets for the train at the Tourism office in Canfranc Estacion so we'll make a trip up there next week for that.
Made some banana bread so maybe the aroma will attract a few pilgrims. We had a family stop in for a stamp, but that's it so far.
So the most interesting thing I can share today is a few secrets about the less glamorous side of hospitalero life. Phil undertook one of my most dreaded jobs today. The shower was draining slowly in one of the men's stalls. He took up the drain cover and with his heavy rubber cleaning gloves (brought from home) he cleaned all of the hair out of the track and the drain. Yuck!!! So glad he is here to do it since it makes me want to hurl just thinking about it! He'll do the other three before we leave.
We were taught about this important task at hospitalero training a few years ago. Something I did yesterday (not part of hospitalero training) was empty the lint filter and the water reservoir in the dryer. We have only used it once to finish drying laundry for a late arriving pilgrim. Goodness Sakes! No wonder his clothes didn't dry! Looks like it had not been attended to in a while and the lint in the filter was even wet!
Also today, I accidently child locked myself out of the cooktop so had to watch a YouTube video to figure out how to unlock it. Such is the glamorous life of the hospitero team. No bedbugs though in any daily checks we do so all is currently right with the world.
When I asked him to speak more slowly, he just spoke louder. Eventually he gave up on me.
How wonderful that you get to experience this feria during your time in Canfranc!!Two pilgrims tonight here with the festivities and seem to be enjoying it. One from Spain and the other from Italy. Love the band Barzonia who appear to be both excellent musicians and actors. They probably play a lot of festivals similar to this. Everyone was clapping and dancing along from kids to grandparents and everyone in between. More Fair activities tomorrow! A second performance this evening of all the displays, music, sword fighting, fencing, horsemanship. Etc, but it was cooler that at noon.
You are doing a great pr job, Janet, you and Phil.Ewww!!! Phil cleaned the other three shower drains this morning. Thank goodness he's here to do it. I am a nurse. But phlegm and hair are two things which make me retch!!! I can clean up blood, vomit, and poop all day. But I have the utmost respect for my house keeping and respiratory therapy colleagues!
The fair continues today. No music, but talks and presentations by a pilgrim actor dressed in traditional garb as well as the vendors. There's a medieval encampment for people to witness crafts and the old ways, too.
FYI, if your in the area, there is a Cheese Fest at Canfranc Estacion on July 30, too.
Geeze that must have hurt.The horse came skidding around the cobblestone plaza and unseated his rider from the leather and wooden saddle!
Hi Janet, do you know if this albergue will welcome friendly dogs?Other frequent answers: Yes, we have a kitchen, but bring food if you want to use it. No, we don't serve a communal meal, but we do serve a simple breakfast. We open at 2 pm and close at 10 pm.
Wow, he had a lot of photos of that afternoon and evening in Grañón. Some had me in them teaching pilgrims how to mix, kneed, roll, and cut egg noodles for chicken and noodles later that night. We all took a photo together here and said we will meet again another year at another albergue. He's a big guy and he joined right in the meal prep along with 6 or so others that day. Great to know we can make a lasting and positive impression even as foreigners in a foreign land.Wonders never cease. Our late guests finally arrived from Somport, a man and wife. The man remembered Phil and I from Grañón where I taught them how to make homemade egg noodles. That was 4 years ago! We had been to the bakery to sing as well so it must have been a good memory for him to recall Los Americanos hospitaleros.
On Sunday from Sante Cilia we took a taxi to visit the monastery.I stayed at the albergue in Santa Cilia when I walked that route previously. I never walked up or down the road, as I took a bus from Jaca, which took us to the upper monastery. The tourist office in Jaca told me about the bus going up to San Juan de la Pena that day, which was not actually on a regular schedule. I shall check with them when I get to Jaca. I had already heard about the closure of the new monastery hotel, but I have no way of knowing whether the bus from Jaca or the hotel at the new monastery, one or both, will be functioning when I again walk through. I am more committed to a return to the old monastery and can check with the tourist office in Jaca if it is open to visitors and what transportation there is available. I would be willing to walk down on the road, carefully, but have heard nothing good about the camino route.
We went the Monesterios on our walking part of this trip. Really loved them except we took the Camino route down to Santa Cruz de los Seros. Big mistake! Very dangerous. Don't do it! Take the road people.On Sunday from Sante Cilia we took a taxi to visit the monastery.
We have been to mass at church and will go again this week so we've been inside. I am not a heights person so would likely skip the bell tower perspective.Have you guys had a tour of the church across the plaza yet? The interior is in serious need of remedial works but it's such a beautiful building and the view from the bell tower puts the albergue nicely into perspective. Maria Jose holds the keys, you will probably have a few cats joining you!!
The tour of the cave at Villanua and the folklore surrounding it is fascinating too, if you can find a time slot that suits..
Beautiful!Another long day and evening growing longer without a single pilgrim. No phone calls. Just a few curious tourists reading the sign out front about the abergue and the funds to remodel it. The sign chronicles the cost of the facility and is a part of the revitalization of the area.
I attached some photos earlier in the thread, but I'll add a few more to give you an Idea of the sleeping areas. Each "room" houses four bunks and there are handmade wooden Lockers with shelves for each pilgrim's backpack. The mattresses are nearly new and covered with nearly new mattress covers with a water proof lining. Each bunk has a shelf, a light and a plug in as well as a roller blind for privacy. The lights are all on timers in the halls and bathrooms. Pilgrims are given a clean cotton sheet and pillowcase. It I had one complaint it would be that the memory foam pillows are really too firm for my liking.
It's a lovely place and I hope over time more pilgrims will stop and enjoy it. Phil wants me to step out with him for a glass of vino tinto next door. If that doesn't bring pilgrims, I don't know what will.
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I had to laugh at your last sentence!I attached some photos earlier in the thread, but I'll add a few more to give you an Idea of the sleeping areas. Each "room" houses four bunks and there are handmade wooden Lockers with shelves for each pilgrim's backpack. The mattresses are nearly new and covered with nearly new mattress covers with a water proof lining. Each bunk has a shelf, a light and a plug in as well as a roller blind for privacy. The lights are all on timers in the halls and bathrooms. Pilgrims are given a clean cotton sheet and pillowcase. It I had one complaint it would be that the memory foam pillows are really too firm for my liking.
It's a lovely place and I hope over time more pilgrims will stop and enjoy it. Phil wants me to step out with him for a glass of vino tinto next door. If that doesn't bring pilgrims, I don't know what will.
???? Don’t keep us in suspense!Currently the route and the albergues need ...
Well certainly sections of the route in the Aragon valley could use more water points that work! Also if there were more pilgrims, some entrepreneurs with cafe mobiles would be welcome along some stretches!I note that there has been a big promotion by the tourism department of the Camino. I am currently in Urdeus de Lerda. I would love to discuss with or provide a list of things which would make this route more accessible and attract more to the rural areas. Currently the route and the albergues need ...
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