- Time of past OR future Camino
- Olvidado/San Salvador/Primitivo 2019
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If you are walking the route please double check my impression of the change to the route near the start!Taking notes to update my copy of the guide.
Hola, Mike,A Rua to Quiroga 26kms.
First a bit about food in A Rua. For such a big place it's not easy to find a somewhere for a meal. Bar Taxi had food but not until late and were not very welcoming. Meson O Tono is shut down and bar Pepa has changed hands. I ate in O Retorno at the bottom of the road from the albergue. Only raciones but truly excellent quality and the owner was clearly aware and interested in the Invierno.
Lovely simple walk today with very clear route markings. There are a couple of alternative routes shown on the way (photos attached) that I didn't take as I was not sure where they would take me! Also the route to Soldon now seems to take a slightly different route (photo of Camino Invierno sign) where instead of following the road it goes off right and heads up a steep hill and then joins a minor road. I walked it but couldn't see any significant gain. Route was very well marked all the way until the centre of Caspedro where a junction where you turn right is not marked and in fact I saw no more directions until I reached the river at Quiroga. For those desperate there is a bar just before you cross the river into Quiroga! Still no other peregrinos (I'm told there are 4 a day ahead) and no dog problems. Off to Monforte de Lemos tomorrow.
Now in Chantada at Hotel Mogay which is a good place. Very clean and smart. I paid 26 euros as a peregrino which is a significant discount to their 44 euro price on Booking.com.
I guess it's just personal thing. I've heard kind of bad reports and very good ones. For me, it's just a bed for the night, the cheaper the best as a only sleep there, I don't want to spend like 24 hours in there. Of course that goes also for the mattresses, which I hadn't really good in **whatever** pension in Chantada. When I'm tired it's the grill I can sleep on for that matterOh, I have heard different reviews of this place, even recently. So it is worth staying?
I guess it's just personal thing. I've heard kind of bad reports and very good ones. For me, it's just a bed for the night, the cheaper the best as a only sleep there, I don't want to spend like 24 hours in there. Of course that goes also for the mattresses, which I hadn't really good in **whatever** pension in Chantada. When I'm tired it's the grill I can sleep on for that matter
Agree completely, this leg isn't all that tough as it looks on the map and profile charts. And it's pure delight!Chantada to Rodeiro 26kms
Yesterday Cafe Amedeo's was great. No food in the evening until 2100, but then menu la dia at 10 euros with lots of meat. Then they ask if you want more!
Temperature is climbing now. Got to the low 30s yesterday and it's mid 30s today. It may only be 26kms but that is one 600m climb and then a 500m descent. A beautiful clear day to start and a magnificent walk. The climb was easier than expected and I was up the top in 3 hrs. From the ermita the way down is very clearly marked, as is this complete section. The view from the top was as good as expected and as you descend I think the views are just as good. Lots of new mojons on the down section and a whole pile by the roadside waiting to be placed. There is an open bar (1300) in A Keira about 5 kms before Rodeiro and they have an Invierno sello! Very friendly.
Staying in the Pension O Guerra which is excellent and it's a great restaurant as well. Lovely room for only 20 euros booked via Facebook which got an almost immediate response. Be aware though it's Restaurant O Guerra on Facebook not Pension. Off to Silleda tomorrow. Still no other peregrinos seen and no dog problems.
Chantada to Rodeiro 26kms
Yesterday Cafe Amedeo's was great. No food in the evening until 2100, but then menu la dia at 10 euros with lots of meat. Then they ask if you want more!
Temperature is climbing now. Got to the low 30s yesterday and it's mid 30s today. It may only be 26kms but that is one 600m climb and then a 500m descent. A beautiful clear day to start and a magnificent walk. The climb was easier than expected and I was up the top in 3 hrs. From the ermita the way down is very clearly marked, as is this complete section. The view from the top was as good as expected and as you descend I think the views are just as good. Lots of new mojons on the down section and a whole pile by the roadside waiting to be placed. There is an open bar (1300) in A Keira about 5 kms before Rodeiro and they have an Invierno sello! Very friendly.
Staying in the Pension O Guerra which is excellent and it's a great restaurant as well. Lovely room for only 20 euros booked via Facebook which got an almost immediate response. Be aware though it's Restaurant O Guerra on Facebook not Pension. Off to Silleda tomorrow. Still no other peregrinos seen and no dog problems.
Hehehe, a "room with a beer"?The last picture is the room where I stayed! :O)
Very nice owners and the best food on the Invierno in the Restaurante O Guerra!
/BP
It needs more options to stay. More importantly it need some half way decent places to eat!
Hey, I met a spaniard who had been on the Invierno and did not like anything about it, to the extent he moved on to another route.WHAAAAT?
Completely agree, Anemone!Hey, I met a spaniard who had been on the Invierno and did not like anything about it, to the extent he moved on to another route.
We all experience things differently.
There were many places where I simply could not get a meal in the evening or not before 2130. For me it's fine as in the end I'll go to the supermarket. However, if the route is to get more popular (and it certainly warrants it as the way is fabulous) the places need to provide food and maybe even tell people with a sign outside that they have food, what it is and when it's served. I just got a bit tired of trolling around the bars at night trying to find who, if any, were serving that night.WHAAAAT?
"More importantly it need some half way decent places to eat!"
&
"As a route it is a far better option than the Frances, but it totally lacks the infrastructure."
I simply don't get it. The restaurants are almost on the same distances as on CF just maybe there are not that much of them. But then a decent place to eat for me is also a bench and a table in a park
And I've found infrastructure more than adequate and that was 3 years ago
Thanks, Mike, I am getting good tidbits for the guide. Was picture 3738 taken on the descent to the Minho from Diomondi? How did you cross it?!Monforte de Lemos to Chantida 31kms
Hotel was fine and had a good meal just down the road. The info in the guide is incorrect about the wine tasting as at least on Sundays it's a tour at 1830 and then A tour at 1930.
Another great walk today except for the dull straight road at the start to Vide. Markings to get out of the city are faint but ok. As mentioned in the guide there are a couple of places where you should be taken off road. At A Vide the right turn is not signed as being the camino and the path that you can see appear impassable. Also just before Pineiro you now turn about 100m up the road from where the Camino used to turn off the road. This stretch is poorly marked. There were 3 small yappy dogs at Barxa but I just threw them a few doggy treats and they shut up.
I was also dive bombed by some aggressive swallows along this stretch!!
The route down to Belasar is not well marked but keep heading down and you can't get lost. The views here are spectacular. Got to the bottom and as usual the bar closed at 1130. I think it's a significant indication of the poor state of the Spanish economy given that in the beautiful setting of Belasar there are still numerous empty and abandoned houses. The climb up from there is tough and for those less inclined(!) there is the road option. Many of the off road routes today were still boggy in places even though there has been little rain. If it was wet they would be very awkward. Now in Chantada at Hotel Mogay which is a good place. Very clean and smart. I paid 26 euros as a peregrino which is a significant discount to their 44 euro price on Booking.com.
Bit busy at the moment but I will reply asap.Thanks, Mike, I am getting good tidbits for the guide. Was picture 3738 taken on the descent to the Minho from Diomondi? How did you cross it?!
Thanks, Mike, it's one of the pictures posted on your comment number 14 on this thread, describing your day from Monforte to Chantada.Got it now. That photo was taken between Pineiro and O Camino Grandee and I think it was in the last km to OCG ( at least that is what my ‘places’ record of the photo on the mac says!). As for crossing it I just walked around the far edge and jumped! Stayed mostly dry. Where do you see the photo?
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