Aussie Pete
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- Time of past OR future Camino
- May 2015
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Although 10 caminos and more than 450 nights usually in albergues provide limitless memories for which I am forever grateful, January 24, 2009, was singular.
I had walked 5 hours through strong wind, heavy rain, sleet and eventually dense snow up the Valcarlos route to the almost mythic monastery of Roncesvalles! Saw few people and no other pilgrims on the route; needed to ring the the monastery bell to ask for shelter and would be the only one staying in the frigid old winter albergue tucked opposite the cloister entrance.
When opening the monastery door the surprised monk greeted me saying "Senora in weather like this!" After stamping my Credential and offering hot tea, he invited me to the evening benediction. As always it was lovely. The service was held in the ancient Romanesque church (wonderfully heated!!) in front of the magnificent silver sculpture of the Virgin. Three monks assisted and asked me to stand with them at the altar. ...In retrospect how special it was that snowy night to be the single pilgrim where crowds have stood and will continue to stand throughout time. ...
That to me is prob the most perfect Camino story,end of.
Margaret Meredith
What a beautiful scene you have painted with your choice of words, thank you MargaretAlthough 10 caminos and more than 450 nights usually in albergues provide limitless memories for which I am forever grateful, January 24, 2009, was singular.
I had walked 5 hours through strong wind, heavy rain, sleet and eventually dense snow up the Valcarlos route to the almost mythic monastery of Roncesvalles! Saw few people and no other pilgrims on the route; needed to ring the the monastery bell to ask for shelter and would be the only one staying in the frigid old winter albergue tucked opposite the cloister entrance.
When opening the monastery door the surprised monk greeted me saying "Senora in weather like this!" After stamping my Credential and offering hot tea, he invited me to the evening benediction. As always it was lovely. The service was held in the ancient Romanesque church (wonderfully heated!!) in front of the magnificent silver sculpture of the Virgin. Three monks assisted and asked me to stand with them at the altar. ...In retrospect how special it was that snowy night to be the single pilgrim where crowds have stood and will continue to stand throughout time. ...
Margaret Meredith
If good weather and reasonable fitness, do you think stopping 1st night at Orisson is too short of a 1st day. This is my 2nd Camino coming up, 1st one by bike starting Pamplona, so, as yet I'm not experienced on the PyreneesThe first one is always special - so for those starting in SJPDP - Roncesvalles sets a high standard of albergue-ness.
If good weather and reasonable fitness, do you think stopping 1st night at Orisson is too short of a 1st day. This is my 2nd Camino coming up, 1st one by bike starting Pamplona, so, as yet I'm not experienced on the Pyrenees
Thank you, Thornley...I think it is true that the CF, and other caminos are going to vary greatly, depending upon where one decides to spend each night. Its a lottery I'm sure, but right now i feel that a difficult day on the Camino can be better than an ordinary day at work/home.Hi Peter,
Not if you have a good day in STJPP , otherwise its a 33km [adjusted because of terrain] walk to Roncesvalles.
We never slept there as i'm not a fan of the 100 beds early in the walk , we like sleep to combat jet lag so we walked to Burgette an extra 5km , its a very nice village. On this occasion it was from Valcarlos.
I remember you MM...so glad you are still posting here~Although 10 caminos and more than 450 nights usually in albergues provide limitless memories for which I am forever grateful, January 24, 2009, was singular.
I had walked 5 hours through strong wind, heavy rain, sleet and eventually dense snow up the Valcarlos route to the almost mythic monastery of Roncesvalles! Saw few people and no other pilgrims on the route; needed to ring the the monastery bell to ask for shelter and would be the only one staying in the frigid old winter albergue tucked opposite the cloister entrance.
When opening the monastery door the surprised monk greeted me saying "Senora in weather like this!" After stamping my Credential and offering hot tea, he invited me to the evening benediction. As always it was lovely. The service was held in the ancient Romanesque church (wonderfully heated!!) in front of the magnificent silver sculpture of the Virgin. Three monks assisted and asked me to stand with them at the altar. ...In retrospect how special it was that snowy night to be the single pilgrim where crowds have stood and will continue to stand throughout time. ...
Margaret Meredith
What do you mean by reasonable fitness? Don't be scared of the Pyrenees, most people (young and old, fit and unfit, male and female) make it over - perhaps a little sore. Most take a few aspirin (or ibuprofen) and walk on the next day. My apprehension about Orisson (it's a beautiful place) is what do you do for the rest of the day?If good weather and reasonable fitness, do you think stopping 1st night at Orisson is too short of a 1st day. This is my 2nd Camino coming up, 1st one by bike starting Pamplona, so, as yet I'm not experienced on the Pyrenees
Thank you Paul, that gives me renewed confidence. I think the answer is (weather permitting), leave StJ early, have plenty food and water, and continue to Roncesvalles in the one day. If weather not favourable, heed advice from pilgrim office and maybe delay or go via valcarlos.What do you mean by reasonable fitness? Don't be scared of the Pyrenees, most people (young and old, fit and unfit, male and female) make it over - perhaps a little sore. Most take a few aspirin (or ibuprofen) and walk on the next day. My apprehension about Orisson (it's a beautiful place) is what do you do for the rest of the day?
I think if you take your time, take lots of breaks, drink lots of water, it is very doable.
Also, strike up conversations with other pilgrims. It helps to pass the time and makes it easy to find a group for beer once you get there.Thank you Paul, that gives me renewed confidence. I think the answer is (weather permitting), leave StJ early, have plenty food and water, and continue to Roncesvalles in the one day. If weather not favourable, heed advice from pilgrim office and maybe delay or go via valcarlos.
Hi my fellow Perigrinos
In 12 days I start my Camino from SJPDP.
I have my gear ready (7 kilos), shoes are sorted, begun my inward preparation.
Firstly, thanks to all of you who post and give advice. It is often conflicting but it all has been invaluable and even the ones I don't agree with have made me think.So, thanks.
I was curious for those who have gone before me, if you could nominate one albergue or experience that was very memorable, what would it be?
Just one!
If good weather and reasonable fitness, do you think stopping 1st night at Orisson is too short of a 1st day. This is my 2nd Camino coming up, 1st one by bike starting Pamplona, so, as yet I'm not experienced on the Pyrenees
Best way to stay at Orisson is to leave at a more leisurely pace from St. Jean even buy some lunch to eat on the way. There's also a cafe at Huunto to sit and watch the world go by. Get to Orisson mid afternoon and enjoy a beer and conversation on that deck.What do you mean by reasonable fitness? Don't be scared of the Pyrenees, most people (young and old, fit and unfit, male and female) make it over - perhaps a little sore. Most take a few aspirin (or ibuprofen) and walk on the next day. My apprehension about Orisson (it's a beautiful place) is what do you do for the rest of the day?
I think if you take your time, take lots of breaks, drink lots of water, it is very doable.
My concern was that I would get to Orisson and then want to hike around to explore the beautiful scenery (assuming a non misty day) and if I was hiking around anyway I might as well be going somewhere.Best way to stay at Orisson is to leave at a more leisurely pace from St. Jean even buy some lunch to eat on the way. There's also a cafe at Huunto to sit and watch the world go by. Get to Orisson mid afternoon and enjoy a beer and conversation on that deck.
Buen camino
Best not to stay there then if you have concerns.Interestingly I met a man who on his first camino had stayed at Orisson. Overnight the weather got bad and the next day the pass was closed. Their only choice was to walk back to Saint Jean and go the Valcarlos route.
We were concerned about exactly this and were told, if this were to happen, that we could get a ride from Orisson to Valcarlos in the morning. Or, depending on the severity of the weather there was the possibility of someone accompanying us, i.e. the pilgrims, to the col de Lepoeder. Perhaps that was then, and this is now ..... anyway, we never had a chance to test either, as the Route Napoleon was a definite no-go, and we walked from SJPP to Valcarlos.Interestingly I met a man who on his first camino had stayed at Orisson. Overnight the weather got bad and the next day the pass was closed. Their only choice was to walk back to Saint Jean and go the Valcarlos route.
It was up for sale, and may have changed hands. Your experience was typical, but it may change in the future, just like many things on the Camino.We stayed at the Casa de la Abuela.
It was up for sale, and may have changed hands. Your experience was typical, but it may change in the future, just like many things on the Camino.
My exact plans. I plan on staying my first night on the 26th in St. Jean and I'm booked to stay in Orisson on the 27th. I am so excited, this is my first Camino. And I'm traveling solo, but I know I'll meet lots of other pilgrams, which will make my journey incredible. Buen Camino from this very excited Canada.Best way to stay at Orisson is to leave at a more leisurely pace from St. Jean even buy some lunch to eat on the way. There's also a cafe at Huunto to sit and watch the world go by. Get to Orisson mid afternoon and enjoy a beer and conversation on that deck.
Buen camino
The experience that meant the most to me was stopping at Orisson. On our first camino, we walked to Roncesvalles and i was exhausted. The incorrect decision for me was biting off too much early in the walk and paying for it later. Our second walk, we enjoyed SJPP during the morning, had a leisurely walk to Orisson, stoppingfor a cuppa on the way and arived at Orisson feeling great. We enjoyed the views, conversations with passing pilgrims and new acquaintances. Our routine was then set, doing shorter legs each day. We felt great the whole way. Only 14 weeks till we go again and we have booked into Orisson again. Counting the sleeps.
Taking your time... How many days did it take you total? I have booked 45 days... Two days each end for travel. Do you think I can take my time like this?
I am staying overnight on Day 1 at Orisson. I will leave mid morning to enjoy the am in SJPDP, then do the trek uphill.Start like an old man and you will finish as a young one.
Do not reverse this method Rebecca as the damage is mostly done at the start.
Hi my fellow Perigrinos
In 12 days I start my Camino from SJPDP.
I have my gear ready (7 kilos), shoes are sorted, begun my inward preparation.
Firstly, thanks to all of you who post and give advice. It is often conflicting but it all has been invaluable and even the ones I don't agree with have made me think.So, thanks.
I was curious for those who have gone before me, if you could nominate one albergue or experience that was very memorable, what would it be?
Just one!
I am staying overnight on Day 1 at Orisson. I will leave mid morning to enjoy the am in SJPDP, then do the trek uphill.
I want to start slowly so I can ease my back and knee into it.
If I start day 2 from Orisson to Roncesvalles, that is a 16Km walk approx. Is there another place to stay if I am finding this 2nd day a challenge? I am convinced I will be ok, and just want an option so I dont push it too hard causing possible issues from days 3 thru 40 ( yes, I am taking the luxury of 40 - 45 days to do the whole thing - Finisterre included).
I am currently plotting a rough outline of all days so I can book my flights this week.
I did 6.5 km yesterday in ym brand nw shoes....they felt good. Lots more training and hill trianing to do
I am staying overnight on Day 1 at Orisson. I will leave mid morning to enjoy the am in SJPDP, then do the trek uphill.
I want to start slowly so I can ease my back and knee into it.
If I start day 2 from Orisson to Roncesvalles, that is a 16Km walk approx. Is there another place to stay if I am finding this 2nd day a challenge? I am convinced I will be ok, and just want an option so I dont push it too hard causing possible issues from days 3 thru 40 ( yes, I am taking the luxury of 40 - 45 days to do the whole thing - Finisterre included).
I am currently plotting a rough outline of all days so I can book my flights this week.
I did 6.5 km yesterday in ym brand nw shoes....they felt good. Lots more training and hill trianing to do
Orisson is great, but Granon was my favorite. The "mattresses" (more like gym mats!), however, were not my favorite! It was worth it, though.
See if you can find a bucket and fill it with cold water.
And nowhere near a bath tub! Bath tubs will be found in hoteles, not albergues.Grañon is one of the albergues that leave a special memory but nowhere near Roncesvalles
Thank YouOh, but Grañon is miles away.. (Unless there's another one???)
It's in La Rioja territory, between Santo Domingo de la Calzada and Belorado
Re-read the thread and yes, Grañon is one of the albergues that leave a special memory but nowhere near Roncesvalles
You're welcome
If you decide against Roncesvalles, there's a hotel in Burguete (favourite of Ernest Hemingway), about 3 km away. I have never stayed there so can't say what it's like.
And as for Biarritzdon's bucket of water....t'is true! You'll find many pilgrims with their feet in cold water at the end of the day (plastic washing bowls can often be found where the laundry is done).
You will find on the Camino that truth is stranger than fiction or vica versa. I really wasn't trying to be humorous because you will learn quickly how to deal with your basic needs in the most fundamental waysBiarritzdon...you are hilarious!
I just thought i'd ask. I am planning on staying in the Albergue in Roncesvalles, but thought about maybe doing something different.
Domigee, someone suggested Granon %km down the road.
You will find truth is stranger than fiction, I really wasn't trying to be humorous. You'll find out
I stayed at Hotel Roncesvalles ...... actually, I was coerced into it. It was extremely comfortable, but there was no tub in our room. If it is a tub you're after, perhaps you will need to ask.Check out 'hotel Roncesvalles', looks good but didn't look at prices....
Otherwise 'Hotel burguete' in... Burguete.
I am sure many will laugh at this post, especially you experienced people.
I was wondering if I should stay in an Albergue after the Pyreneees or go to a place with a HOT BATH to soak my (more than likely) wearing legs and body! LOL
Biarritzdon...you are hilarious!
I just thought i'd ask. I am planning on staying in the Albergue in Roncesvalles, but thought about maybe doing something different.
Domigee, someone suggested Granon %km down the road.
There were many fine albergues along the camino, but the best with regard space, cleanliness, spacious showers/changing rooms,
friendly staff, good food was Albergue Santa Brigida in Hontanas, about 29k beyond Burgos.
Buen camino
It is worth going to serbal y la luna -2 km out of Caccabelos -past the municipal -just keep going on the wayHi my fellow Perigrinos
In 12 days I start my Camino from SJPDP.
I have my gear ready (7 kilos), shoes are sorted, begun my inward preparation.
Firstly, thanks to all of you who post and give advice. It is often conflicting but it all has been invaluable and even the ones I don't agree with have made me think.So, thanks.
I was curious for those who have gone before me, if you could nominate one albergue or experience that was very memorable, what would it be?
Just one!
Stay at orisson !!! It may seem to short but for a first day -after perhaps a not such good sleep-it lol seem like a good idea -and then starting to walk to ronscavalles next morning is lovely .If good weather and reasonable fitness, do you think stopping 1st night at Orisson is too short of a 1st day. This is my 2nd Camino coming up, 1st one by bike starting Pamplona, so, as yet I'm not experienced on the Pyrenees
I'm just back from my 2nd Camino and this time round I would say the one that stood out as La Faba Albergue.
Not only is the location absolutely beautiful with spectacual views across both sides of the hill (breaks up the uphill walk to Cebriero and so much lovelier a spot I think) but it is charming, atmospheric and even has a great kitchen. The people were lovely, the welcome warm and relaxed. Although the albergue was fab (pardon the pun) we ate with others at the veggie place in the village which was AMAZING - home grown food and good local wine. We then all went and sat together in the little church next to the albergue, someone pulled a guitar out and we sang Beatles and other songs by candlelight.
Absolutely wonderful memories and one of my happiest albergue experiences.
http://lafaba.weebly.com/photos.html
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