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Many thanks for raising the Portomarin route Nidarosa . I took the 'left hand' route last year and had to negotiate that tricky descent you mention (photo attached) some of the 'steps' are 12-18 inches which rendered trekking poles useless. I was so relieved that it was a dry day as coming this way would be treacherous in rain or frost. I will DEFINITELY be taking the 'right hand' route when I reach that crossroads sign in September.I have just come back from a walk from Rabanal to Santiago, and noticed some new route choices along the way - some of them worrying. In particular the new signs in O Cebreiro, which seems to indicate that the recommended route to follow is to walk on the road (!) and that the lovely walk through the woods, starting at the municipal albergue at the end of town, is a 'complementario' route, hinting that it is a detour or not the 'right' one. I have walked this part of the Francés many times and always walked through the woods, apart from once when it was deep in snow and we walked along the road. I really cannot understand how the road could be recommended apart from when the wood trails are covered in snow! In fact it seems dangerous to lead pilgrims onto the twisty road, especially early in the morning. If you do take this trail, make sure you are wearing reflective clothing!
If anyone is in or near O Cebreiro now, it would be great if you could confirm or even take a pic of the new signs pointing to the road (carretera) as the recommended route.
I also walked the new, steep route down to Portomarín once and can't understand why that would be the 'real' route - in or after rain that would be treacherous, so I am happy to see that the marker now points both to the 'new' (but historic?) and the 'old' route. You get to a road crossing the smaller road you are on, where if there is a concrete marker pointing both to the right and left - see photo below. I would definitely recommend turning right and following the smaller tarmac road down to the river and the bridge.
There are other places too where what I know as the camino is now a 'complementario', though it's not always clear (as when leaving Portomarín) where the new one is.
Does anybody know why these parts of the trails have become 'complementario' or why pilgrims are recommended to walk on the road? @Rebekah Scott? @ivar? @natefaith?
I am pretty sure this is the marker before Portomarín, claiming that the trail to the left, the steep slope down between two stone walls, is the more historically correct, while the other, to the right, is a 'secundario' (but in my opinion by far the safest and easiest).
View attachment 57692
Many thanks for raising the Portomarin route Nidarosa . I took the 'left hand' route last year and had to negotiate that tricky descent you mention (photo attached) some of the 'steps' are 12-18 inches which rendered trekking poles useless. I was so relieved that it was a dry day as coming this way would be treacherous in rain or frost. I will DEFINITELY be taking the 'right hand' route when I reach that crossroads sign in September.
Rgds,
P
I have just come back from a walk from Rabanal to Santiago, and noticed some new route choices along the way - some of them worrying. In particular the new signs in O Cebreiro, which seems to indicate that the recommended route to follow is to walk on the road (!) and that the lovely walk through the woods, starting at the municipal albergue at the end of town, is a 'complementario' route, hinting that it is a detour or not the 'right' one. I have walked this part of the Francés many times and always walked through the woods, apart from once when it was deep in snow and we walked along the road. I really cannot understand how the road could be recommended apart from when the wood trails are covered in snow! In fact it seems dangerous to lead pilgrims onto the twisty road, especially early in the morning. If you do take this trail, make sure you are wearing reflective clothing!
If anyone is in or near O Cebreiro now, it would be great if you could confirm or even take a pic of the new signs pointing to the road (carretera) as the recommended route.
I also walked the new, steep route down to Portomarín once and can't understand why that would be the 'real' route - in or after rain that would be treacherous, so I am happy to see that the marker now points both to the 'new' (but historic?) and the 'old' route. You get to a road crossing the smaller road you are on, where if there is a concrete marker pointing both to the right and left - see photo below. I would definitely recommend turning right and following the smaller tarmac road down to the river and the bridge.
There are other places too where what I know as the camino is now a 'complementario', though it's not always clear (as when leaving Portomarín) where the new one is.
Does anybody know why these parts of the trails have become 'complementario' or why pilgrims are recommended to walk on the road? @Rebekah Scott? @ivar? @natefaith?
I am pretty sure this is the marker before Portomarín, claiming that the trail to the left, the steep slope down between two stone walls, is the more historically correct, while the other, to the right, is a 'secundario' (but in my opinion by far the safest and easiest).
View attachment 57692
I was there not too long ago. I took the more lonely trail with the somewhat higher altitude. I didn't pay much attention to the markers as I knew that's where I wanted to go so I didn't see any sign saying recomendado. I understand from an earlier message in this thread that the trail I didn't take is not on the road but follows it more or less through the woods. If so, it's probably to be recommended for the majority of camino walkers from Cebreiro as it avoids the (relatively small) increase in altitude. I had a look at an older map and I think it was perhaps the traditional camino - meaning the one that was "the" camino in the 1990s or so?@Kathar1na Thanks for that overview! This shows the 'tradicional' route out of O Cebreiro is on the road, but the sign did say 'recomendado', so that's another layer of confusion.
Me too, and that's when I noticed the clearly new signpost pointing to the road. I thought it was a bike specific sign because of it. I have walked the higher and lower altitude trails through the woods, they meet not long before you get out on the tarmac road above Liñares. The lower one passes practically over the front step of the albergue, and is my favourite with great views over the valley in the beginning. But to anyone who is confused now - either of the woodsy trails will be preferable to the road unless you are worried about snow.I was there not too long ago.
I walked/climbed this tricky downhill route the last time that I was through Portomarin. I considered it to be rather a scrambling route than a walking route, and I would never walk it again. It would indeed be dangerous in wet weather. But I doubt if I will remember the marking if I ever go through Portomarin again. And of course, the markings may well be changed again. I am surprised that I have not yet heard of a pilgrim being seriously injured here. It utterly bewilders me that the relevant authorities have assigned this as a walking route.Many thanks for raising the Portomarin route Nidarosa . I took the 'left hand' route last year and had to negotiate that tricky descent you mention (photo attached) some of the 'steps' are 12-18 inches which rendered trekking poles useless. I was so relieved that it was a dry day as coming this way would be treacherous in rain or frost. I will DEFINITELY be taking the 'right hand' route when I reach that crossroads sign in September.
Rgds,
P
You’re never actually on the road, but alongside it. I took this route by mistake in February, immediately after Linares, when I was walking “backwards”, and it was very up and down! I preferred the (original) higher route as once you are at a higher altitude you stay level until you gently descend again.I really cannot understand how the road could be recommended
About 10 days ago. It was late in the afternoon and as the "complimentary" routes usually take me longer to walk, I chose the "recommended". Still a lovely walk through the forest, over a wide, well maintained trail. Loved the difference in trail maintenance once crossing the border to Galicia.@gerip Have you walked from O Cebreiro recently? If so, did you read the signposts or just follow the concrete markers? In May the signpost marked recomendado pointed to the road which is why I am concerned.
Now that you mention it, I think it was ln of those the wooden markers on a post just down from the albergue.@gerip I'm glad, that is the best route. Still confused though as the recomendado sign - not concrete marker - was marked carretera, meaning the road? Looks like I'll have to go back and investigate ...
Due to bilateral knee replacements, I almost always skip the “complementary” paths. The “normal” option down from O Cebriero is not on the road, but follows it (more or less) through the woods.
I had a good laugh at that little bit (I think it was into Portomarín). After checking Google Maps, I chose the road, while some cyclists chose the path. I met them at the other side, as it was in only a short sharp bend in the road, while they were stuck in the middle of the path as it seemed that something broke on one of the bikes.
Edit: Looking at the graphic above, I think it was Ligonde.
I walked this section recently in very wet weather. The "difficult" bit is short. I wore proper shoes, had my backpack on my back and I had no poles that could get in the way. I am so happy that I had picked this 'historico' option and not one of the two alternatives which I guess are just the usual kind of generic trail. The section is narrow and has old stone walls on either side that you can use for occasional support if you feel the need and the rocks underneath one's feet have been cut in a few places where there are not enough natural steps. You can always put your feet safely and securely on the ground at every step. Not to be missed in my book!We opted for the 'descent' into Portomarín along the 'histórico' route and yes, it is fairly steep and probably tricky in wet weather but we did it in dry weather and found it very beautiful. The stone walls at either side were literally in full bloom and the shade was wonderful: there was much to admire on the way down, we thought. I should add that we were a group of four (height varied from 116 to 185) and even the ones with the shorter legs thought it was a very nice route (although they were probably quite oblivious to the risk element...). We all had backpacks on; I imagine things are easier if you don't have a pack with you.
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