Demi pension meals

[Tracying]

What can I expect to be eating.
I have spent a lot of time in France and know it has amazing food and that every French housewife is an amazing cook. I know they cook from scratch and use local and seasonal produce.

I also know they assume everyone eats everything and get extremely upset if a plate isn't emptied. I have very uncomfortably caused offence on more than one occasion by not finishing what was put in front of me either because it was genuinely too much food (I never eat three course) or because I don't/ can't eat it.
Any here lies the problem, I am a vegetarian with limited tolerance to dairy and cannot abide mushrooms. I am not a "political" vegetarian I just don't like the taste of meat or fish/seafood so 95% of the time don't bother with it. I have found France an amazing country to be vegetarian in if you shop and cook yourself but difficult if you eat out and impossible if invited to have a meal with someone.
We now avoid invitations by others to dine with them as i don't want to cause offence. We normally eat in cheap and cheerful places where I can have omelette frites or salade chevre chaud (goats and sheep's cheese I can have some of ).
Normally this works, a combination of cooking myself or the above option but I have read your advice here and demi pension is recommended particularly on Sundays and in quieter towns.
So what are they likely to place in front of me and is it help yourself or will it be plated.
Not trying to be awkward but wanting to plan ahead and avoid causing offence or going hungry. Thanks

 

[mspath]

In France if you tell your accommodation hostess/host in advance for example when you reserve that you are vegetarian she/he will make an effort to serve you as you wish. In a restaurant tell the waiter.

Good luck and bon appetit!

 

[Kanga]

Some planning will be required. The Le Puy has long stretches with only tiny villages with no infrastructure. No restaurants or cafes, no shops. There are larger villages and towns, but certainly not every day. And, as you know, even in larger places Sundays and Mondays can be a problem. And many gites do not have communal kitchens.

Demi-pension means a meal will be set down before you. If you want a vegetarian meal, and do not eat specific things, you will need to telephone your host at least a day before to tell them, so they can get the right provisions and prepare.

 

[Tracying]

Thanks for the quick responses, I would certainly enjoy sitting down to a meal with others rather than hiding alone in my room eating whatever I have managed to purchase.

I like the idea of pre informing the host but even with this have fallen foul of it. Vegetarian in France seems to mean "doesn't eat big pieces of meat like steak". As a vegetarian I have been given fish, seafood, fois gras, andouille sausage, tripe, cassoulet, beef bourginaun and duck....as its not "meat".

I hate "putting people out" and if a meal is help yourself I normally have enough choice between salads, veg and bread to enjoy a full meal and can make up at lunch the next day for any lack of protein I have had.
I get uncomfortable when food is plated and I cant eat it all. We once had lunch with an extended farming family that a relation of ours was living with. We eat a light lunch and about 18 of us sat down, we had a large salad with potato and eggs along with leaves, then a huge bowl of a very heavy (but delicious) pumpkin soup. I was enjoying it when we were then informed the main of roast chicken with lots more veg was ready. In order to be able to attempt it I stopped eating the soup, well we all awkwardly sat there waiting until it was pointed out to me that they were waiting on me to finish and that I had to finish as we were using the same dish for the main....I was mortified.

When eating out I study the menu well before sitting and know what I can have, if there is nothing suitable I juts walk on, or if nowhere else to eat I ask for an omelette natural or just frites. I would never again tell the staff I am vegetarian as it can lead to been treated with contempt...though not as much is small rural areas thankfully.

The worst experience of any hotel service I have had anywhere in the world was in a 4star hotel in Vichy with a michelin starred chef. We were club members and my profile states vegetarian, when we booked we highlighted vegetarian, when we called at 5pm to say it would be 8pm before we arrived and they asked would they book us a table in their restaurant we said yes and again stated vegetarian. When we got to reception we were told the chef was aware of this, the maitre d' said I could choose from the table d'hote menu. We were given a set menu at the table and told table d'hote wasn't available only the menu fete (it was easter). The waiter didn't care that a menu with just variations of rabbit and lobster didn't suit me so took the menus and walked away, after about 40 minutes the head waiter came over and asked what was our problem, why were we refusing to order. Trying to explain it all again he conferred with the maitre d' and then the reception and eventually threw the table d'hote menu at me telling me it had smoked salmon and grilled hake I could have. At this stage the whole restaurant was watching us and all I wanted to do was leave but my husband refused saying loudly that this was to be our wedding anniversary meal, that we had booked well in advance and that the hotel had said they could accommodate a vegetarian meal with no problems, that all we had encountered were problems and rudeness and it was their issue to solve not ours. So they sent the chef out (I wanted to run away at this stage, about 100 other diners where watching this scene), I explained I eat no meat or fish of any sort but did eat eggs and dairy and grains and pulses. So for a starter I was given a plate of grated carrot and cucumber and for a main course I was given a plate of rice and cooked carrot...that's it, no dressings, no sauces, no salad greens, no olive oil on it, no salt or pepper. And as it was in Vichy everyone was given little shots of Vichysoisse as an amuse guele...nope, none for me (no meat or chicken stock in it, I checked the next day at breakfast as they offer it then too)...and for this I was charged €90.

 

[Tracying]

Sorry, didn't mean to go on a rant...but that is a real story about trying to be a vegetarian in France.
For a Camino I would try to organise as much of my own food as possible but at times out of necessity and sometimes for companionship would like to partake of some demi pension meals on the Le Puy route.

 

[Kanga]

You can buy up a supply of Le Puy lentils in Le Puy.... but seriously, I hope you have understanding hosts and can get by. I understand you are hiring a house near Montcuq, otherwise you might be better considering walking the Camino Frances in Spain - lots of our members are vegetarians and have managed that route quite successfully.

 

[Tracying]

Arrgh, I lost my post

 

[Tracying]

Rushing out, will be back later

 

[jsalt]

Hi, I quickly gave up demi-pension on the Puy route, as I wasn’t getting value for money. Yes, they would cater for me as a vegetarian, but nothing special. For example, they would do a cauliflower cheese dish to go with the main meat or chicken, and I would then have a larger helping of the cauliflower cheese. But I still paid the same price as everybody else. So I always tried to stay in gites that had a restaurant or shop nearby. And I always carried a packet of peanuts for emergencies, as they are filling. Occasionally I had to go with the demi pension and accept the cost, but I avoided it whenever I could. I have no problems with being vegetarian in Spain.
Jill

 

[Tracying]

Sorry, back again.

so I said....yes, I actually love Puy lentils and have 5kg bag in the kitchen now

Ive picked the Le Puy because it goes through my favourite parts of France, I don't really have any desire to go to Spain

posting in bits as it keeps getting lost

 

[MinaKamina]

That is quite a story.
IMHO the easiest way out for all is to tell your host in advance what you can eat: omelette frites and salad with goat cheese. Add 'crudités' if you like vegetables for a starter.
I'd skip the 'vergetarian' completely and go for 'strict diet due to health reasons' and you regret to inform that you cannot eat much, and that you do not tolerate meat or processed meats or mushrooms, and dairy only in small quantities.

Good luck and bon appétit!

 

[Tracying]

Thanks Jill, good info to have.
I am planning for 2018 camino which is walk Le Puy to Cahors alone, stop for a family holiday in Cahors for 10 days and then Cahors to SJPDJ again alone. If have access to bread, croissant, frites and chocolat then I wont fade away and just need to make sure eat a proper lunch. I seem to be more concerned about putting hosts out or causing offence to them in their own home.

At Jill, yes the cost can be frustrating, vegetarian meals should only be charged the same if the making of them takes up a huge amount of time or the cost of the ingredients is comparable with the cost of the meat offered, for example a truffle omelette.

 

[BShea]

Hello fellow vegetarian...
I am a strict lacto ovo vegetarian (for over 45 years) and have never had a problem eating well on the chemin in France. I always warn the host when I reserve and then, once again upon arrival. It seems that the hosts are getting used to this request and are well prepared now. They often even want to verify whether I am vegetarienne or vegetalienne (vegan).

I understand exactly how you feel about pacing... when you are served in courses, it's impossible to know what's next! Rest assured that with each course, your host will always include something for you. Generally, there is soup or cold cuts (occasionally a salad) , then main course, then cheese, then salad, and finally a dessert. The good news is that at most gites, you eat family style and one of your fellow pilgrims does the serving. You can very easily control the amount placed on your plate. You may want to check out my blog where I listed daily what we were served.

I must say that I don't love eggs and I end up eating my year's supply en chemin, but I convince myself that I need the protein.

The demi pension meals are the highlight of the chemin not only because of the food but because of the conviviality. People who eat separately may seem anti social.

Rest assured, there is no comparison for vegetarian eating in France compared to Spain. Never will you be served an iceberg lettuce salad followed by overcooked pasta topped with a can of tomato sauce, which was the go to vegetarian meal in Spain.

Here is a list I made for another post of my favorite places to stay which may be helpful:
Le Puy en Velay : Association Grand Séminaire – Accueil St Georges
Saint Privat d’Allier : Centre d’accueil La Margeride
Le Sauvage : Domaine du Sauvage
Aumont-Aubrac : Ferme du Barry
St Combe d’Olt : Gite d’Etape Communal del Romiou (Sabine is vegetarian)
Le Soulié : Accueil Chrétien le Soulié de St Jacques
Conques : Abbaye Sainte Foy
Livinhac le Haut : La Vita e Bella (vegetarian only)
Grealou : Ecoasis (stayed here in 2013-it was full this last trip so not in my blog-vegetarian only)
Limagne en Quercy : La Maison en Chemin
Cahors : not a gite, but a great middle eastern restaurant - Antalya
Lascabannes : Le Bouy
Lauzerte : Les Figuiers (best meal of my life! - may have been sold this year)
Moissac: Ultreia (Great food, hosts, but bunk beds – rare in France)
Larressingle: La Halte de Larressingle
Barcelonne du Gers : Hospitalet du Cosset
Navarrenx : Le Cri de la Girafe / also l'Alchemiste (vegetarian only - haven't tried yet but plan to stay here next trip)
Aroue : La Ferme Bohoteguia (cannot recommend high enough! Excellent meal)
Ostabat: La Ferme Gaineko-Etxea (animated host is quite a character)

I am going to be trying out the following this next trip:
Gite d'etape du Gua: 06 74 73 22 69 / 05 81 71 50 28 gitedugua.figeac@gmail.com
Gite d'etape Dalat Etape: 06 07 31 69 61 contact@dalatetape.fr
Le Papillon Vert: 05 81 70 14 09 / 06 75 80 58 42 papillonvert.cahors@gmail.com
L'Etape Bleu: 05 65 35 34 77 mc.cayon-glayere@orange.fr

If you go to this site: http://www.chemindecompostelle.com/Selection/CarteFrance.html, sometimes on the individual gite page, they state under repas whether they accommodate vegetarians, which is where I found these additional places. However, even if it doesn't state it, most will accommodate you.

Sorry this is so long. I hope it helps.

 

[BShea]

Hi, I quickly gave up demi-pension on the Puy route, as I wasn’t getting value for money. Yes, they would cater for me as a vegetarian, but nothing special. For example, they would do a cauliflower cheese dish to go with the main meat or chicken, and I would then have a larger helping of the cauliflower cheese. But I still paid the same price as everybody else. So I always tried to stay in gites that had a restaurant or shop nearby. And I always carried a packet of peanuts for emergencies, as they are filling. Occasionally I had to go with the demi pension and accept the cost, but I avoided it whenever I could. I have no problems with being vegetarian in Spain.
Jill

I know that it's frustrating to pay the same as the carnivores and, for me, drinkers (I don't drink alcohol either), but most demi pension meals only cost 12-15€. My restaurant experience is that I can easily be charged that for a salad - forget about adding a dessert for that price. In the end, I found demi pension to be cheaper, especially since they're usually all you can eat. I have never left the table hungry, which is great value in my opinion.

 

[Tracying]

I'd skip the 'vergetarian' completely and go for 'strict diet due to health reasons' and you regret to inform that you cannot eat much,
Good luck and bon appétit!

Thanks, yes I have discovered that...in France you are not allowed to "not like" something. Even my mother in law (who is French) had forbidden me from saying "I don't eat..." when dining in her house when brother in law was still a child.

We had an interesting time once when looking at a house to buy belonging to a lovely elderly farming couple. They decided they liked us and to treat us to some of their farm produce, dried duck, rilletes and homemade tripe. They got very upset that I wouldn't try it, though my husband tucked in and ate plenty. Thankfully it was Friday and we told them that as Irish and a strict Catholic I couldn't eat meat on Fridays (not true). They insisted on making up for it by giving me a huge glass of their Eau de Vie. We had to go for a long walk before driving onwards.

 

[Tracying]

Hello fellow vegetarian...
I am a strict lacto ovo vegetarian (for over 45 years) and have never had a problem eating well on the chemin in France.
Sorry this is so long. I hope it helps.

Thanks so much, great info which is saved to refer to for the future, and one or two noted for holiday this September.

 

[Tracying]

I know that it's frustrating to pay the same as the carnivores and, for me, drinkers (I don't drink alcohol either).....

I found demi pension to be cheaper, especially since they're usually all you can eat. I have never left the table hungry, which is great value in my opinion.

Really good to know, thanks. I have no problem paying €15 if I get some salad, bread, wine and good conversation and am not hungry when I leave. But when a restaurant has a €30 menu price which has steak and duck and I just have frites and green salad I do feel hard done by.

Anyway, with all these answers I am now less concerned about eating on my trip. It was because the Le Puy route has less eating choices and demi pension has been advised that I thought I would check with all the wonderful people here, many thanks.

 

[good_old_shoes]

If you're okay with paying 15Euros for an omelette, salad and some bread, you won't have a problem.

There is usually no vegetarian option on the menu when in a restaurant (same in Spain), but when you ask there will be something! You just have to be clear about what you eat and what not (vegetarian in France and Spain often means fish and chicken are ok).

When taking demi pension, tell the hosts when you call to book for the night, so they know they have to prepare a vegetarian dish - it's more work for them, only polite to warn them before you get there!

Many gîtes have a kitchen, also... so maybe sometimes you'll prefer to cook your own dinner. You could team up with others to do that! Cooking together is always fun

 

[Kitsambler]

You know, the story you tell them doesn't have to be scientifically accurate; it need only let the host off the hook of the "clean plate fetish", while letting you off the hook of "I don't want to make extra trouble". You could say, for example, (with great regret) that you have irritable bowel, or esophageal reflux, or somesuch, and therefore have a very restricted diet. "J'ai un regieme special. Je ne mange pas viande au poulet au poisson."

 

[MichaelC]

I reserved demi-pension for my first week on the Le Puy, and every host so far has asked if I had "un régime." I get the sense that people are used to handling various diets.

Thanks, yes I have discovered that...in France you are not allowed to "not like" something. Even my mother in law (who is French) had forbidden me from saying "I don't eat..." when dining in her house when brother in law was still a child.

This was a super-rigid rule at our table when I was growing up, along with not eating until everyone has been served, not wearing hats at the table, not talking with your mouth full, asking for dishes to be passed rather than reaching, and ... most brutal of all ... no dessert until you have eaten everything on your plate.

I thought this was normal, until I went to college and learned that these were "country" rules and that most Americans of my generation didn't follow them at all.

 

[BShea]

We must be related. You left off no elbows on the table and napkin in your lap

As for country rules, I grew up in a snooty suburb of Los Angeles, so???

 

[MichaelC]

We must be related. You left off no elbows on the table and napkin in your lap

As for country rules, I grew up in a snooty suburb of Los Angeles, so???

Yeah, country-rules might be the wrong term. But we are definitely among the minority here, yeah? At least among Americans. And I totally forgot about elbows on the table!

 

[Tracying]

We had to "eat everything" and as a child when it was discovered that I just couldn't the rule was relaxed to "eat the meat and the whatever else". By 10 I just stopped eating all meat and fish....I couldn't chew or swallow them, it took a while for my Mam to understand this. But by 12 she was happy as I took over all the cooking for the family.

Nice to know I can have " un regime" on Le Puy......thanks all