Camino Francigena vs. The Way of St. Francis

[CowboyJoe]

Friends,
After having done the CF last summer (SJPDP to Santiago), the road is calling again, but this time to Rome.
Do any of you have experience with both the the Way of St. Francis (from Florence to Rome) AND the Camino Francigena (portion I am considering due to time constraints is from either Lausanne to Rome or from Vercelli to Rome).
I am seeking advice on the comparison of the two different routes: terrain, accommodation type, scenery, history, and so forth. I know that both routes differ significantly in length--I will most probably have only 30-40 days to do it and am looking at a July timeframe.
Any thoughts you could share are most appreciated.
Thank you!
CaminoJoe
P.S. If you'd like to view my blog on the Camino de Santiago, please go to CaminoJoe.com.

 

[grayland]

I started the Way of St Francis in Florence earlier this year. I have not walked the Via Francigena. It was necessary to abandon the Way of St. Francis before Assissi due to medical reasons but will return to finish this year.

That said....I would not recommend starting the Way of St. Francis in Florence. That portion of the route appears to be simply a very difficult and confusing recently devised route. It has no history of pilgrimage or association with St. Francis.
We were often confused despite using a guide book and being experienced pilgrims. The three of us had an average of 10 past caminos each.
I would simply start in La Verna which has a very important history with St. Francis.

JohnnieWalker has a very good daily blog of his walk on the Way of St. Francis in January. You may want to check it out.
http://johnniewalker-santiago.blogspot.com/

Not much help...but maybe others can join in.

 

[CowboyJoe]

I started the Way of St Francis in Florence earlier this year. I have not walked the Via Francigena. It was necessary to abandon the Way of St. Francis before Assissi due to medical reasons but will return to finish this year.

That said....I would not recommend starting the Way of St. Francis in Florence. That portion of the route appears to be simply a very difficult and confusing recently devised route. It has no history of pilgrimage or association with St. Francis.
We were often confused despite using a guide book and being experienced pilgrims. The three of us had an average of 10 past caminos each.
I would simply start in La Verna which has a very important history with St. Francis.

JohnnieWalker has a very good daily blog of his walk on the Way of St. Francis in January. You may want to check it out.
http://johnniewalker-santiago.blogspot.com/

Not much help...but maybe others can join in.

Thank you, Grayland! I'll check out JohnnieWalker's blog!

 

[DLJ]

My wife and I did the Way of St.Francix at the original trail head in Dovadola, Italy and followed it to Assisi and on to Rome. Particularly, the first ten days are solitary & strenuous, but we don't think that is all bad. From La Verna on there are more Pilgrims and easier terrain. The Italian hill towns are great, and it is the history of St. Francis. If you register in Dovadola, they will have a certificate of completion waiting for you in Assisi (Cathedral of St. Francis.)

 

[William Marques]

I have not done the way of St Francis but the Via Francigena section from Switzerland South is well waymarked and although accommodation is not as easy to find or as cheap as the CF it is plentiful in one form or another.

If time is an issue the section across the Po Valley (flats)from Ivrea to Fidenza are the VF equivalent of the meseta which you may wish to miss though Vercelli, Pavia and Piacenza are all interesting towns.

 

[CowboyJoe]

My wife and I did the Way of St.Francix at the original trail head in Dovadola, Italy and followed it to Assisi and on to Rome. Particularly, the first ten days are solitary & strenuous, but we don't think that is all bad. From La Verna on there are more Pilgrims and easier terrain. The Italian hill towns are great, and it is the history of St. Francis. If you register in Dovadola, they will have a certificate of completion waiting for you in Assisi (Cathedral of St. Francis.)

DLJ: Thank you for your advice! Much appreciated!

 

[debra]

Hello Cowboy Joe,

I have cycled the Camino Francigena in the summer of 2014 and am going to cycle the way of St. Francis later this month and next. So will post more in comparison then.

As for the Camino Francigena and places to stay I would compare it more more to the VdlP with places every 20-25kms, however a lot of it feels as bit less organized that on the camino with a room here at this church and that church. Even on the bike I ran in to few other pilgrims until about Lucca. As for Italian the more you have the better. People will try to understand poor Italian and some have English even in the smaller town but they would love to see you try.

I stayed on the route about 95%+ of the time and in Italy it is well marked.

Debra

 

[CowboyJoe]

Hello Cowboy Joe,

I have cycled the Camino Francigena in the summer of 2014 and am going to cycle the way of St. Francis later this month and next. So will post more in comparison then.

As for the Camino Francigena and places to stay I would compare it more more to the VdlP with places every 20-25kms, however a lot of it feels as bit less organized that on the camino with a room here at this church and that church. Even on the bike I ran in to few other pilgrims until about Lucca. As for Italian the more you have the better. People will try to understand poor Italian and some have English even in the smaller town but they would love to see you try.

I stayed on the route about 95%+ of the time and in Italy it is well marked.

Debra

Hi Debra,
How did you find the terrain (level of difficulty) and the scenery of the Francigena? How much of it is on paths vs. roads?
Thank you!

 

[CowboyJoe]

I have not done the way of St Francis but the Via Francigena section from Switzerland South is well waymarked and although accommodation is not as easy to find or as cheap as the CF it is plentiful in one form or another.

If time is an issue the section across the Po Valley (flats)from Ivrea to Fidenza are the VF equivalent of the meseta which you may wish to miss though Vercelli, Pavia and Piacenza are all interesting towns.

William: Thank you! How is is south of Vermicelli?

 

[William Marques]

Vercelli or Vermicelli

Vercelli is a beautiful town on the edge of the Po valley which is the rice growing area of Northern Italy think risotto. The walk from there to the Apennines is flat and at the wrong time of year mosquito can be a problem. From Fornovo de Taro to Rome there are few dull days which are either scenic or with interesting towns and cities.

As Bradypus says here accommodation is not quite as easy as the CF but from Vercelli it is achievable in albergue like accommodation. I am told the waymarking is now good though I would still take a guide book such as the Cicerone or Lightfoot ones.

 

[DLJ]

Starting the Way of St.Francis from Dovadola to particularly La Verna, you are totally crossing the Apennines, so it is continuous up and down. A bicyclist would follow the roads, but to the hiker it is a strenuous solitary workout. HEY! Nobody said it was supposed to be easy. There are Pilgrim Refuges along the way, but occasionally we stayed at Agrotourismo's. From La Verna on it is more open, more roads, and more likely to meet other Pilgrims, but it still has it's challenge. But, like the Camino's worth the effort. Photos were taken before La Verna.

 

[debra]

ok for the Francigena
on the route I stayed on route of the in Italy on 95% of the way besides at Radicofani. and at point before due to very steep climb and rain the day had rain which softened the path too much for my skill level this had been around Bardone.

As I mainly followed the marks, I found them to be clear and easy to follow. Most of the path is not very steep. What holds in my mind is a lot of roads both paved and dirt. I really liked the dirt roads. with little trail which was not very bad when I ran a cross it. I also used this gps route https://ridewithgps.com/routes/4985846#

Debra

 

[Matthew King]

Hi Debra
Thanks for posting your GPX data. I am planning on cycling Canterbury to Rome on VF in June/July. How many days cycling did it take you?
Matt

 

[Rhysmike]

Friends,
After having done the CF last summer (SJPDP to Santiago), the road is calling again, but this time to Rome.
Do any of you have experience with both the the Way of St. Francis (from Florence to Rome) AND the Camino Francigena (portion I am considering due to time constraints is from either Lausanne to Rome or from Vercelli to Rome).
I am seeking advice on the comparison of the two different routes: terrain, accommodation type, scenery, history, and so forth. I know that both routes differ significantly in length--I will most probably have only 30-40 days to do it and am looking at a July timeframe.
Any thoughts you could share are most appreciated.
Thank you!
CaminoJoe
P.S. If you'd like to view my blog on the Camino de Santiago, please go to CaminoJoe.com.

I walked the Camino Frances in May June2014, and again in April May 2016. I then walked the Francigena from Lausanne to Rome in Sept Oct 2016 and here is a post that I made along the way:

We're past half way in our walk from Lausanne to Rome on the Via Francigena and here are some observations.

Switzerland:
1. Ridiculously expensive
2. Ambiguous trail marking...
3. People generally indifferent to the Francigena
4. St Bernard's Pass a hard climb
5. Did I mention that Switzerland was expensive?

Italy:
1. Route marking way better
2. People aware of the Francigena
3. Good accommodation
4. Aosta valley spectacular
5. Next 10 or so stages across the rice/wheat belt ordinary
6. Up and over into Tuscanny stunning

Did I mention how expensive Switzerland was?
I would add that there were too many dangerous stages where you were directed onto busy roads, and avoid the 'tourist' towns.

I kept a blog along the way:

https://www.polarsteps.com/MichaelMatthias/32128-via-francigena

 

[debra]

Matt
AS for cycling the route it took me about 60 days or I was on holiday for 60 days, I took about four days in England to get to Canterbury and I was in Rome for about 5 days at the end, also had a few rest days. Please note I am a slow cyclist and take a lot of time off the bike to look at the churches on the route. I had a tent which I used about 15 nights on the trip.
All said I was going about 60 km a day. A little faster on the flat and slower on the major climbs.

I did not make the GPX date but was given it during my planning stages.

Debra

 

[Matthew King]

Thanks Debra. That's very helpful.

 

[CowboyJoe]

I walked the Camino Frances in May June2014, and again in April May 2016. I then walked the Francigena from Lausanne to Rome in Sept Oct 2016 and here is a post that I made along the way:

We're past half way in our walk from Lausanne to Rome on the Via Francigena and here are some observations.

Switzerland:
1. Ridiculously expensive
2. Ambiguous trail marking...
3. People generally indifferent to the Francigena
4. St Bernard's Pass a hard climb
5. Did I mention that Switzerland was expensive?

Italy:
1. Route marking way better
2. People aware of the Francigena
3. Good accommodation
4. Aosta valley spectacular
5. Next 10 or so stages across the rice/wheat belt ordinary
6. Up and over into Tuscanny stunning

Did I mention how expensive Switzerland was?
I would add that there were too many dangerous stages where you were directed onto busy roads, and avoid the 'tourist' towns.

I kept a blog along the way:

https://www.polarsteps.com/MichaelMatthias/32128-via-francigena

Great blog and wonderful feedback. Thank You! Another question: you mentioned that the VF often bypassed towns rather than going directly through them (if I understood you correctly) and it required a hike into the town. Could you elaborate? About how often did this occur? About how far was the VF from the town?
And if I could also ask: how did you find the scenic beauty of the VF?
If you did it again, and knowing what you know now, what would you do it any differently? Any portions you'd skip? Do you know of the Way of St. Francis? I'm trying to decide which to walk...I only have 30-40 days max...Thank you!!!
Many thanks! Your blog is great!

 

[NavyBlue]

you mentioned that the VF often bypassed towns rather than going directly through them (if I understood you correctly) and it required a hike into the town. Could you elaborate? About how often did this occur? About how far was the VF from the town?

Hi CowboyJoe,

I didn't notice such situations. The (official) VF is more a town to town way. Of course, there may be few towns or villages to be crossed during the day.

In other terms, if you want to arrange your stages differently, yes, you may have some additional distance to walk to some location outside of the way.

 

[Sprintstuk]

I am planning to walk the Way of St Francis from Dovadola to Assisi and continue on to Rome. Your pictures reinforce I made the right choice. Is it hard to get the permits. It says I need to wait til two months out and I plan to start This summer. Will it be difficult to get Refugio's for the night?

Also I had planned to start in Florence. Does this make logistic sense? Lastly what is the best source for info and where could I store a bag while I'm walking. Thanks

 

[DLJ]

I am planning to walk the Way of St Francis from Dovadola to Assisi and continue on to Rome. Your pictures reinforce I made the right choice. Is it hard to get the permits. It says I need to wait til two months out and I plan to start This summer. Will it be difficult to get Refugio's for the night?

Also I had planned to start in Florence. Does this make logistic sense? Lastly what is the best source for info and where could I store a bag while I'm walking. Thanks

My wife and I took train from Rome airport to Bologna, and took a bus the short trip to Dovadola. We were starting on Sept. 17th, and were the last Pilgrims to register; we were numbers 509 & 510 for the year. From Dovadola to La Verna, we only had the company of one other Pilgrim, a Frenchman. So, Refuge's were never crowded. They told us there is less than 600 a year, but obviously, most of that number are during the summer. In Sept. in Dovadola the refuge was already closed for the season. Our first night out we stayed at a Agritourismo (a farm w/tourist facilities), after that refuges which were always accomodating, but there were only three of us, there are more Pilgrims in summer, but most start in La Verna or come to La Verna from Florence (Tour groups). The walk to La Verna from Dovadola is priceless (no group tours). After La Verna (which has a refuge & private rooms) there is a big increase in Pilgrims, but now you are stopping in larger Italian hill towns with every kind of accomodation (but, also inexpensive).it is a different walk from the section from Dovadola to La Verna. You get the passport from the village priest in Dovadola, and apparently he sends it to Assisi, so they have a credential waiting for you at the Cathedral of St. Francis. The first week is definitely worth the price of admission - Wonderful!

 

[debra]

Hi CowboyJoe,

Having now completed the way of st. Francis. I have to say it is a lot more hilly that the Camino Francigena, by this I mean that every day is up and down as host of st Francis sites are on hills and the better routes between places are full of car traffic so the route takes roads that people don't want to drive. Both routes pass through some great town and both routes are beautiful.

Debra

 

[caminka]

the Way of St. Francis (from Florence to Rome) AND the Camino Francigena (portion I am considering due to time constraints is from either Lausanne to Rome or from Vercelli to Rome).

I have stumbled upon this informative and funny blog this weekend which covers both (portions of) via francigena and the way of st francis - I thought I would post it here for future reference. it has a complete updated list of the accommodation for the way of st francis and the author has written a guidebook to the way of st francis too, in english.

https://caminoist.org/

 

[smj6]

After my 1,000 km pilgrimage in Oct/Nov 2016 (part of LePuy Route, then through to Finisterre), my 2017 walk was interrupted by life . So now I'm planning on walking in Italy in May this year (capitalising on the fact that I have a home base in Umbria).

Still debating between a part of the Via Francigena (possibly from San Gimignano to Bolsena, or maybe through to Rome), and St Francis Way (here I'm debating starting from La Verna, as suggested by several pilgrims, or say Dovadola and going on to Assisi).

Since a friend (who also has a place in San Gimignano, hence the reason for possibly starting there!) is interested more in the VF, I guess I will do that part. And I guess that we'll keep walking until we stop!!.

As they say: "I used to be indecisive, now I'm not so sure". Happily, I can just delve into my 'Camino' storage box under my bed and I'm already packed.

Finding the various comments in this Italian forum most useful (and special thanks to Sandy).

Suzanne

 

[caminka]

a map showing pilgrimage routes crossing the territory of emilia romagna. I was shocked there are so many!

 

[caminka]

another map of the whole of italy and the main pilgrimage ways there.

 

[caminka]

this site attempts to unite as much of italian pilgrim routes as possible, given that they meet certain criteria: http://www.turismo.beniculturali.it/en/cammini/.