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I liked my day from Berdún to Leyre very much, even if some of it was on the side of the main road.
But at the time the reservoir was at its lowest for 50 years so I was mostly able to walk on an ancient road and off tarmac.
Staying at Leyre monastery was wonderful. An ancient isolated...
I walked from Leyre to Sangüesa through the foz, which was an extremely enjoyable 30km, with a stop for a very good lunch in Lumbier (duck breast on the menú del día, most unusual).
https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/leyre-monastery-sanguesa-42499473
...along the old path by the río Aragón, past farmsteads usually covered in water.
And then on an old path near the Urbanización Náutica de Leyre, up to the monastery. Quite sharply up - around 200m up in 1.5km, but through lovely lovely woods, with occasional views of the monastery higher...
The Foz de Lumbier, an occasionally quite scary narrow gorge on the Aragonés between Leyre and Sangüesa. There had been a bridge to take pilgrims across the Lumbier river, but Napoleon's troops demolished it, so we now have to make a bit of a detour.
An "are we nearly there yet" moment on the Camino Aragonés not far from the Monasterio de Leyre, on the old route, now seldom used (I was one of 10 pilgrims to stay in the monastery's albergue last year) on the north side of Yesa's resevoir.
...the Pyrenees, there is some world-class man-made beauty on or near this route, in particular the royal monasteries of San Juan de la Peña and Leyre, the fabulous collection of Romanesque Wall paintings and sculpture in the museum at Jaca cathedral. The camino joins the Francés near Eunate...
Leyre monastery to Sangüesa vía the Foz de Lumbier
It was still dark as the monks started singing Lauds, but just daylight as they finished, and we processed again to the refectory for an excellent breakfast, eaten in total silence, not even a reading from the rule. Then Padre Javier blessed...
Berdún to Leyre monastery
The arrows try to keep you off the main road where possible, but often it isn't, and at one point a roadside sign told you it was 80km to Pamplona and 820 to Santiago. Luckily most of the traffic is on the parallel motorway. The landscape is slightly lunar, the grain...
...along the north side of a big reservoir, while almost everybody now goes along its southern bank. As I was determined to visit the monastery of Leyre, on the north side, my mistake proved quite useful, and I was soon checking-in to a pleasant hostal in Berdún, almost half way to the...
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