gollygolly
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I remember that in 2014 it looked like the road works have just started between Fervenza and Rodeiro (last few kms). Many times I stayed on main tarmac road (LU-P-1809) where obviously construction sites cut in the "official" Camino. Not much traffic on that road though. And when I came to Rodeiro I turned sharp left over the Rio and soon was in the center by the municipal swimming pool. Although I don't know if that's official way because I can't remember any markers for turning left and over the river.Here is the continuation of this Camino
Day 9 : Chantada to Rodeiro
Thursday 30th June - started walking at 8:00am arrival at 4:40pm
Recorded distance 30.90kms / 42312 steps walked / 93 floors climbed
Over the whole day 35.29kms / 49360 steps walked / 97 floors climbed
While it became hotter as the day advanced, this was a beautiful day for walking in some beautiful open countryside. The exit out of Chantada was well indicated, and having started with some exceedingly good croissants and coffee at Panadería Ascensión, just round the corner from the hotel, we were in good spirit. The croissants were so good that it was a struggle to decide whether to stay and have another croissant or whether to set off. The sensible self took control, and off we set. There were no deer today, but we did see some majestic raptors, especially in the open fields before we arrived at Penasillás. This small and attractive settlement we were told has 18 residents, and a small bar ! The bar, Cantina O Peto, opened for us, and this time it was coffee with magdalenas that fortified us before continuing the walk which ascended and passed through countryside abundant with yellow heather. It was a beautiful walk, and we made the slight diversion required to see the Santurario da Nosa Señora do Faro (Erimita), where there were quite stunning 360º degree views over a great distance. Sadly, the Ermita was closed, so without seeing within we continued, walking the route alongside the electric turbines, the immense sails gently turning and whirling in the slight breeze. We stopped for a break at a rather dramatic mojón that was a commemoration by the Concello de Rodeiro of the Camiño de Invierno, though why it was here, in the middle of no-where, I am not sure. From here the descent was more marked, and then we had another 'gift' of the Camino. This was arriving at El Pazo de Camba, a quite substantial private property closed to the public, and where attached and forming part of the property is a small chapel - San Xoán de Camba - which was open and being cleaned and prepared, so we were told, for the first baptism to be celebrated there for over 25 years. While quite small, the inside has a beautiful carved alter piece, and it felt a true blessing to have been passing and have had the opportunity to see the interior. After leaving the Pazo behind us there were more then a few times where there were doubts as to where the Camino was heading, and we discovered that there is an environmental disaster unfolding, with the construction having commenced of a sealed road that will head out of Rodeiro cutting through this stunning countryside. I am not sure if it is because of these works that waymarkers or anything indicating the Camino had possibly been removed. I am hoping that the works will not create too great a cut through this wonderful countryside. Passing a quite unusual stone mojón, with an elaborately carved 'concha' on it, we arrived at Rodeiro and settled in to our accommodation at Pensión O Guerra, which is conveniently located and also has a restaurant with quite reasonable food that came in substantial portions. The town of Rodeiro seemed relatively active, though it was too late in the day to see inside the building that today is the Ayuntamiento - Concello Rodeiro, and which is apparently worth a visit. Still, very close by there is a pleasant park with the Río de Rodeiro running through it, as well as the local church which was worth the walk to see, at least from the outside, as it was closed. In our walk around the town we came across a heaped pile of stones with yellow arrows on them. Removed from the Camino or never having placed on the Camino in the first place we do not know, but they are of little use where they now lie.
Day 10 : Rodeiro to Lalín
Friday 1st July - started walking at 8:10am arrival at 1:40pm
Recorded distance 25.04kms / 32856 steps walked / 54 floors climbed
Over the whole day 26.50kms / 35124 steps walked / 57 floors climbed
Leaving Rodeiro and walking on the road for a couple of kms, the Camino then headed away from the tarmac and into some stunning countryside, and like sections of the path a couple of days previous, we were walking through some quite muddy sections. This was a beautiful mornings walk, which passed the quite astonishing 'monument' that had been erected, as far I could discern, in homage to King Juan Carlos. Lalín was a planned overnight stop, as we had memories of staying at the albergue at A Laxe in 2015, when it was seriously plagued by quite vicious mosquitoes, and really wanted to avoid staying at that albergue. So, we were going to stop overnight in Lalín and after passing the Romanesque Monasterio de Lalín de Arriba, which looked more like a church, but was anyway closed, we headed to where we had booked to stay, the Hotel El Palacio. What made Lalín memorable for us was the exceptional lunch that we had at Restaurante Cabanas, who prepared us a 'Menu Peregrino', when none usually exists. Near the hotel, and the continuation on the Camino, is a very impressive art nouveau monument to a pioneer Spanish aviator, Joaquín Loriga.
Day 11 : Lalín to A Bandeira
Saturday 2nd July - started walking at 7:45am arrival at 2:26pm
Recorded distance 27.00kms / 36093 steps walked / 53 floors climbed
Over the whole day 29.36kms / 39767 steps walked / 53 floors climbed
An easy start to the day, then slightly confused as we walked through an industrial estate on the outskirts of Lalín that felt very unlike the Camino, before the descent to where we had stayed the previous year, the Albergue at A Laxe. This descent was to bring us from the direction 'behind' the Albergue, so it was something of a surprise to see it 'emerge' from a different view to that we knew, but nonetheless the walk from now on was along a Camino that we had previously trodden in the final days of our walking the Camino Sanabrés. Shortly after we stopped at the bar/cafe/restaurant 'María Jose' for my caffeine intake, and then onwards, passing one again over the awe-inspiring Puente Taboada, though this time it was not raining. At the top of the climb, just before entering Silleda, we briefly stopped at Bar Gerardo, which had only been open a few weeks when we passed and had shelter from the rain in 2015, and which now seems to have thrived and become a fixture on this stretch of Camino. As in the previous years walk, we paused at the Iglesia de Santiago de Taboada; so pleasing to find the Church open. Passed through Silleda and on to Bandeira, where we stayed at the 'tin-can' Albergue de Peregrinos. This must have been one of my masochistic decisions, as this albergue represents so much that I dislike ; a scarringly ugly modern building that is removed from and has no historic connection with the actual Camino. And we were the only ones staying here - just the two of us. The redeeming feature is the tremendous cloth washing and drying facilities, so I was able to ensure that all of our clothes were cleaned and with the heat of the day, these quickly dried. The town was having something of a fiesta on this day, and as we walked through the town the local priest was stood on the back of an old truck giving a blessing / benediction with holy water being splashed liberally across the passing traffic. Any hope for a peaceful nights sleep were dispelled by the music being played in the main square that stopped at 5 the next morning.
Day 12 : A Bandeira to Outeiro
Sunday 3rd July - started walking at 8:19am arrival at 2:20pm
Recorded distance 19.19kms / 26217 steps walked / 38 floors climbed
Over the whole day 19.5kms / 26669 steps walked / 38 floors climbed
As with much of the previous days walk, today was along Camino that we had walked the previous year. This year we stopped for coffee at the private albergue a few kms beyond A Bandeira, Casa Leiras 1866, and talked with Andrea, who along with his wife Cristina and their children have made this place their home and an albergue. Continuing, we came to the descent to Pont Ulla, where we went for the morning service at the Iglesia de Santa María Magdalena before proceeding to the Dia supermarket and stocking up with provisions before the climb up and the walk to the Albergue at Outeiro (also, I believe known to some as the Albergue de Vedra). Unlike the previous year, which was in the rain, today the walk was in warmth, though mercifully there are the many trees to give some shelter from the direct sun. Within the woods we made a brief stop relaxing in an abandoned arm-chair, which while a disgrace being dumped in the middle of nature, made for a good photo opportunity. Arriving at the albergue we were to finally begin meeting other peregrinos, though all had either commenced on the Camino de Plata or the Sanabrés. During the late afternoon we went and explored the area, as not far away is the Pazo de Galegos, an alternative if more expensive place to stay then the albergue.
Day 13 : Outeiro to Santiago de Compestella
Monday 4th July - started walking at 5.34am arrival at am
Over the whole day 28.3kms / 38633 steps walked / 84 floors climbed
I do know that while we started early, with other peregrinos getting up very early so as to complete the last stretch to Santiago, that we were the last to leave the Albergue. That stated, we somehow had the advantage of both knowing this stretch as well as having a quite good walking pace, so we found ourselves passing most of those who had left before us. Our arrival in Santiago was relatively early, and probably because of that, it was a surprise to find such a short queue at the new Camino office. Here we were met with a baffled look by the young man at the desk when he asked us which Camino we had walked, and we responded "Camino de Invierno" ; he had never heard of it and had to go and consult with someone else about this Camino.
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Overall personal summary ! This is probably not a Camino for someone who has not walked a Camino before, nor for someone who before commencing has not made defined destinations for each day, and accordingly made plans for accommodation along the way, at least in respect of some of the places. With that caveat, it is a stunningly beautiful Camino, generally well marked, which in places is quite demanding, but which is hugely rewarding, even if other peregrinos are about as rare a 5 leaf clover. I was surprised at how tough some of the sections are, but that could be because there was little personal physical preparation before commencing. Or, it could be that I'm simply getting older !
Hi gollygolly, thanks so much for your posts. Lot of fun to read. I continue to be surprised at the lack of traffic. It is such s great camino. Maybe next year....
I'll go back through your posts later this year as I work in the forum guide updates. Any specific info for updates or changes you can think of now? Many thanks. Laurie
Quiroga was a disappointment. This was mostly because of the Albergue, which I had hoped would not be occupied on a Sunday, but which was mobbed by what I perceived to be 2 quite large groups of very noisy youngsters, who seemingly attempted to out-compete each other in a make-the-most-noise competition that had no limit in either the level of noise or the duration. While we had our own bedroom - with its own bathroom ! - this Albergue is not peregrino specific and afforded no peace for practically the whole night.
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