Kevin Considine
Active Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- 2021
It’s A Long Way From Tipperary To Santiago. Day 100/101.
SANTIAGO:
After my 55K walk yesterday I walk through the forest before dawn in the dark. After almost 3000K my energy is strong and I have passed a dozen or so pilgrims and then I pass a small woman. She recognizes me and says my name. I know her voice. Little Gloria from Ecuador. For a few weeks earlier on Frances I would pass her early in the morning each day for about 10 days straight but I have not seen her since the day I passed her walking into Leon 10 days before. We hug and she starts to cry and I do as well. “Buen Camino Gloria. Ultreia!” Walking on into Santiago just 200 meters or so from Cathedral I see my Hungarian friend Agi for the first time since the Bridge of Orbison. We hug. Moments later at the Cathedral I do not feel as emotional as expected after my almost 3000K pilgrimage but joy at seeing the western facade of the Cathedral for the first time as it had been under restoration on my 5 previous visits. So I continue on to my albergue and shower and then walk to the dentist and yes my tooth is in bad shape and needs to be pulled. But after 2 months of pain, good riddance. Then I have to deal with the local Moviestar office to get my Spanish phone working and it is a long frustrating hour. Not feeling real well at this point and Santiago is crowded with people.
I hear from Laura from Italy and am invited with my 3 friends from yesterday to dinner with two Americans who are studying to become priests that I last saw a day out of Burgos. We have a delicious dinner and quiet but fun reunion in their luxurious AirB&B flat.
The next day I get up early to view the Portico de Gloria, which I have never seen and after a two hour wait I walk into the main entrance way of the Cathedral. I am more of a nature lover but on rare occasions see the hand of God in man made works. The joy in the angels, children, musicians, and others surrounding Jesus’ rise into heaven is stunning real and beautiful. I love the statue of Master Matteo who created this great Romanesque work over 25 years in the 12th century and I bow before him as people have been doing for 800 years but you are no longer allowed to touch his head with your own(the legend was that you would get some of his genius by doing so).The narrow column in the center depicting The Tree of Jesse where some pilgrim 800 years ago realized that his hand fit in perfectly. Now it is indented from the millions of pilgrims that have entered the Cathedral and placed their hands in the same very spot making it seem to come to life. I find this emotionally overwhelming as my hand raises without thinking. The Spanish guard steps up and states kindly but firmly, “ You can no longer touch the column for the purpose of preservation.” I nod and just let my hand linger feeling the raw energy of the many coming before me. There is no disappointment as it is enough to be close and feel the energy, relief, and joy of so many kindred pilgrims.
Afterwards I meet Laura at Plaza de Cervantes for tea and a pastry and listen to the beautiful Polish mother and daughter, Anya and Agnes, dressed in loose white blouses and pants, play their violins with such joy that I feel as if they are angels. ( I watched them, listened and enjoyed their music 4 times over the next 10 days). Later walking back to the Cathedral I run into Mariska, one of my Dutch Camino buddies from last year’s Camino Via de la Plata. I am not surprised by this meeting as this sort of chance encounter is not uncommon among pilgrims. She is planning to walk to Finisterre on Monday but I am leaving tomorrow so she changes plans and agrees to join me saying that she has spent enough time in Santiago.
The evening is spent with my 3 walking buddies from 2 days ago and we enjoy the evening listening to opera singers, musicians and partaking of delicious tapas and wine. At one point Laura pulls out her victory cigar which we light up and pass around. It is dried up and broken so difficult to smoke but great fun nevertheless. We say goodnight and there are hugs all around. Laura returns to Italy tomorrow but Astrid, Gina and I will walk on to Finisterre, the end of the world.
Walking back alone to my Albergue I realize that not getting too emotionally high here in Santiago is appropriate. The long walk from Ireland and the lonely stretch through France have brought me to a calmer more balanced state. I simply feel joy. Ultreia!
SANTIAGO:
After my 55K walk yesterday I walk through the forest before dawn in the dark. After almost 3000K my energy is strong and I have passed a dozen or so pilgrims and then I pass a small woman. She recognizes me and says my name. I know her voice. Little Gloria from Ecuador. For a few weeks earlier on Frances I would pass her early in the morning each day for about 10 days straight but I have not seen her since the day I passed her walking into Leon 10 days before. We hug and she starts to cry and I do as well. “Buen Camino Gloria. Ultreia!” Walking on into Santiago just 200 meters or so from Cathedral I see my Hungarian friend Agi for the first time since the Bridge of Orbison. We hug. Moments later at the Cathedral I do not feel as emotional as expected after my almost 3000K pilgrimage but joy at seeing the western facade of the Cathedral for the first time as it had been under restoration on my 5 previous visits. So I continue on to my albergue and shower and then walk to the dentist and yes my tooth is in bad shape and needs to be pulled. But after 2 months of pain, good riddance. Then I have to deal with the local Moviestar office to get my Spanish phone working and it is a long frustrating hour. Not feeling real well at this point and Santiago is crowded with people.
I hear from Laura from Italy and am invited with my 3 friends from yesterday to dinner with two Americans who are studying to become priests that I last saw a day out of Burgos. We have a delicious dinner and quiet but fun reunion in their luxurious AirB&B flat.
The next day I get up early to view the Portico de Gloria, which I have never seen and after a two hour wait I walk into the main entrance way of the Cathedral. I am more of a nature lover but on rare occasions see the hand of God in man made works. The joy in the angels, children, musicians, and others surrounding Jesus’ rise into heaven is stunning real and beautiful. I love the statue of Master Matteo who created this great Romanesque work over 25 years in the 12th century and I bow before him as people have been doing for 800 years but you are no longer allowed to touch his head with your own(the legend was that you would get some of his genius by doing so).The narrow column in the center depicting The Tree of Jesse where some pilgrim 800 years ago realized that his hand fit in perfectly. Now it is indented from the millions of pilgrims that have entered the Cathedral and placed their hands in the same very spot making it seem to come to life. I find this emotionally overwhelming as my hand raises without thinking. The Spanish guard steps up and states kindly but firmly, “ You can no longer touch the column for the purpose of preservation.” I nod and just let my hand linger feeling the raw energy of the many coming before me. There is no disappointment as it is enough to be close and feel the energy, relief, and joy of so many kindred pilgrims.
Afterwards I meet Laura at Plaza de Cervantes for tea and a pastry and listen to the beautiful Polish mother and daughter, Anya and Agnes, dressed in loose white blouses and pants, play their violins with such joy that I feel as if they are angels. ( I watched them, listened and enjoyed their music 4 times over the next 10 days). Later walking back to the Cathedral I run into Mariska, one of my Dutch Camino buddies from last year’s Camino Via de la Plata. I am not surprised by this meeting as this sort of chance encounter is not uncommon among pilgrims. She is planning to walk to Finisterre on Monday but I am leaving tomorrow so she changes plans and agrees to join me saying that she has spent enough time in Santiago.
The evening is spent with my 3 walking buddies from 2 days ago and we enjoy the evening listening to opera singers, musicians and partaking of delicious tapas and wine. At one point Laura pulls out her victory cigar which we light up and pass around. It is dried up and broken so difficult to smoke but great fun nevertheless. We say goodnight and there are hugs all around. Laura returns to Italy tomorrow but Astrid, Gina and I will walk on to Finisterre, the end of the world.
Walking back alone to my Albergue I realize that not getting too emotionally high here in Santiago is appropriate. The long walk from Ireland and the lonely stretch through France have brought me to a calmer more balanced state. I simply feel joy. Ultreia!
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