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I considered that, and maybe that’s what I should have done. But I’m in the bus now to Aldeanueva. I should be there before noon so will walk to Bano de Montemayor. I was able to make a reservation at a private albergue there. Hopefully this gets me out of the bubble I may have been in and I won’t have any more problems finding a bed. I’ll update in a day or two.You could try a municipal albergue. First come first served. There's one in Grimaldi, 12 beds only 8km from Canaveral. Almost everyone has to stay in Canaveral because it is 33 km from Casar de Caseres with nothing in between. Things should spread out a bit after that.
I finished yesterday. Municipals and donativos were never full but twice I saw private albergues sell out. You meet more people as well. Anyway, it is your Camino, enjoy it. Buen Camino.I considered that, and maybe that’s what I should have done. But I’m in the bus now to Aldeanueva. I should be there before noon so will walk to Bano de Montemayor. I was able to make a reservation at a private albergue there. Hopefully this gets me out of the bubble I may have been in and I won’t have any more problems finding a bed. I’ll update in a day or two.
Thanks for your input, particularly your note that you meet more people at a municipal albergue. I wasn’t aware.I finished yesterday. Municipals and donativos were never full but twice I saw private albergues sell out. You meet more people as well. Anyway, it is your Camino, enjoy it. Buen Camino.
Yep. I stayed there last year, great place. But the only open shop was closing in 15 mins and the only place for lunch was taking last orders for menu del dia. Lucky... I used Google maps alot to check a day or two ahead for shops, bars etc, and opening hours.Found a beautiful albergue at Baños de Montemayor. Albergue Turístico Vía de la Plata. The little town is beautiful as well. A bit of a change from the somewhat nondescript towns I’ve been stopping as so far. But it’s Monday, and once again almost every place is closed. Found the o ly bar open for another hour so could get a bocadilla. Sundays and Mondays can be tough finding food and drink.
Thanks Rob, looking at Google maps there may or may not be some place open to eat this evening. Most are closed til tomorrow or the day after. One restaurant says open. Hope Google is correct or it’s going to be a hungry evening…Yep. I stayed there last year, great place. But the only open shop was closing in 15 mins and the only place for lunch was taking last orders for menu del dia. Lucky... I used Google maps alot to check a day or two ahead for shops, bars etc, and opening hours.
In many ways the VDLP today is very like the Camino Frances of 30 years ago. Though the accommodation is better. There is a pilgrim infrastructure but it is fairly sparse. Which means long stages. And as you have discovered the towns and villages along the route do not revolve around pilgrims as so many of the small villages on the Frances do. You will not find the infamous menu peregrino very often and business hours are mostly traditionally Spanish rather than deliberately international. Worth bearing in mind that the Frances is very much the exception rather than the norm. On my two VdlP walks I have always felt welcome but I never had the impression that pilgrims were a major part of anyone's day unless they happened to run an albergue.I was spoiled last year on the CF. They cater to pilgrims on that route. Here I’m just a dude with a backpack. Understandable, as there aren’t enough pilgrims on this route to make it worth their while to cater to them.
AgreedIn many ways the VDLP today is very like the Camino Frances of 30 years ago. Though the accommodation is better. There is a pilgrim infrastructure but it is fairly sparse. Which means long stages. And as you have discovered the towns and villages along the route do not revolve around pilgrims as so many of the small villages on the Frances do. You will not find the infamous menu peregrino very often and business hours are mostly traditionally Spanish rather than deliberately international. Worth bearing in mind that the Frances is very much the exception rather than the norm. On my two VdlP walks I have always felt welcome but I never had the impression that pilgrims were a major part of anyone's day unless they happened to run an albergue.
Always have a snack in your pack just in case.. I had one day with no food till night. The CR promised breakfast but didn't turn up. The cafe in the next village was closed... but at the end of the day I got a meal... a packet of nuts kept me going....Thanks Rob, looking at Google maps there may or may not be some place open to eat this evening. Most are closed til tomorrow or the day after. One restaurant says open. Hope Google is correct or it’s going to be a hungry evening…
Hey JustJack. Sorry to hear about the difficulty finding beds in the albergues. When I did the VDLP in 2019, I did it a month earlier and very fortunately never had any difficulty finding an albergue or a bed for the night.Thanks for your input, particularly your note that you meet more people at a municipal albergue. I wasn’t aware.
Unfortunately not every little town and village has a municipal albergue.
Thanks for your comment, and I do hope that I was in a bubble of 30+ pilgrims, that I am now ahead of. The next few days will tell. While 30 pilgrims isn’t a lot, it’s more than most albergues can handle. And when there was municipal albergue it was turning into a literal bed race for those beds. I found myself unable to stop and enjoy the walk because I had to keep going to get to the albergue ahead of most of the pack to get a bed. That’s not conducive to a good Camino. But as I said, hopefully the past few days were an anomaly and it’s behind me now. And I too haven’t noted any differences regarding the quantity or quality of fellow pilgrims at a municipal versus private albergues.Hey JustJack. Sorry to hear about the difficulty finding beds in the albergues. When I did the VDLP in 2019, I did it a month earlier and very fortunately never had any difficulty finding an albergue or a bed for the night.
My only comment on this particular thread is that I have never found that I met more or fewer fellow pilgrims on my Caminos based on the type of albergue where I stayed. On numerous routes, I have stayed in both municipal and private albergues. The category of albergue did not seem to determine my meeting people. I’m not really sure why this would determine relationships. Every night, regardless of where I stayed, I’d bump into familiar faces that I had met along The Way as well as meet new folks. It was this human factor that made the Caminos so meaningful.
Anyway, good luck with finding beds rest of your journey. Buen Camino.
Yea. A brick of noodles and can of sardines can stay at the bottom of your pack until you need them.I always assume that there's no food ahead, unless totally sure otherwise. Carry a few light snacks, a croissant, a pot noodle, some energy bars, a bit of cheese. It's no fun being in a bubble. It takes all the fun out of the walk. Good luck.
I do have a jar of peanut butter I’ve been carrying since seville. It’s better than nothing.I always assume that there's no food ahead, unless totally sure otherwise. Carry a few light snacks, a croissant, a pot noodle, some energy bars, a bit of cheese. It's no fun being in a bubble. It takes all the fun out of the walk. Good luck.
This is the "pig in the python" dynamic. If a large group of pilgrims - whether actually a formal group or just a lot of pilgrims who start on a Sunday, they will cause a "clog" as they move on any Camino route.One reason for me choosing the VDLP is to avoid the constant stress of the bed race on the busier routes. Alas I haven’t escaped it. Literally every bed (that I’m able to contact) is full from where I am (Canaveral) for the next 45km or so. Everywhere I contacted last night and this morning are ‘completo’. The albergue at the next stop has 20 beds and they are all booked. I suspect/hope I'm just in a bubble. Seems to be about 30-40 walking the same stage as me, making it a bed race, ala the CF. I’ve looked at every option (under 100 euros) and there’s no way I can walk to a bed tonight. So I’m going to try taking a bus to Aldeanueva del Camino, about an hour away by bus. Hopefully that will get me out of this bubble. Racing for a bed every day on the VDLP is not what I signed up for. The stages are too long and accommodation to sparse for this nonsense.
Just an FYI for others about to embark.
That’s a 36km day from Salamanca. I see there’s a donativa there with 16 beds. Hopefully I arrive early enough for one of those. After spending so much in Salamanca I need a cheap option for the next night in El Cubo.JJ,
I am ahead of you. The bed race continues. I am in in El Cubo de Tierra del Vino. I had to book this 3 days in advance. It seems that a lot of pilgrims dive in the middle do a few stages then bail. Thus creating random bottlenecks. I agree this not what I desire. I also picked VDLP to avoid that stress. Ahead of me reports are that it is reduced. But then again it looks to be random.
But as I said there is a donativo in Salamanca. The first night you could stay there and the second night in the other place.That’s a 36km day from Salamanca. I see there’s a donativa there with 16 beds. Hopefully I arrive early enough for one of those. After spending so much in Salamanca I need a cheap option for the next night in El Cubo.
That’s a 36km day from Salamanca. I see there’s a donativa there with 16 beds. Hopefully I arrive early enough for one of those. After spending so much in Salamanca I need a cheap option for the next night in El Cubo.
It seems like that on other routes too. Could you tell me please about the weather at this time because in planning my walk on that route, I’m concerned about heatOne reason for me choosing the VDLP is to avoid the constant stress of the bed race on the busier routes. Alas I haven’t escaped it. Literally every bed (that I’m able to contact) is full from where I am (Canaveral) for the next 45km or so. Everywhere I contacted last night and this morning are ‘completo’. The albergue at the next stop has 20 beds and they are all booked. I suspect/hope I'm just in a bubble. Seems to be about 30-40 walking the same stage as me, making it a bed race, ala the CF. I’ve looked at every option (under 100 euros) and there’s no way I can walk to a bed tonight. So I’m going to try taking a bus to Aldeanueva del Camino, about an hour away by bus. Hopefully that will get me out of this bubble. Racing for a bed every day on the VDLP is not what I signed up for. The stages are too long and accommodation to sparse for this nonsense.
Just an FYI for others about to embark.
If you take for a minute the premise that an albergue will not willingly let all the beds be in the prebookable status,
It seems like that on other routes too. Could you tell me please about the weather at this time because in planning my walk on that route, I’m concerned about heat
Recommend that too. I stayed Grimaldi to break largish group. Good Albergue. Very good Bar next door for food (you register for Albergue here). Arrived early morning, caught bus to Plasencia to visit great historic buildings, bus back in arvo great menu del dia at the Bar!You could try a municipal albergue. First come first served. There's one in Grimaldi, 12 beds only 8km from Canaveral. ...
Thanks Rob, looking at Google maps there may or may not be some place open to eat this evening. Most are closed til tomorrow or the day after. One restaurant says open. Hope Google is correct or it’s going to be a hungry evening…
Don't forget to factor-in holidays. If a holiday falls on a Thursday, assume everyone will take the Friday as a "bridge" day.
JJ,
I am ahead of you. The bed race continues. I am in in El Cubo de Tierra del Vino. I had to book this 3 days in advance. It seems that a lot of pilgrims dive in the middle do a few stages then bail. Thus creating random bottlenecks. I agree this not what I desire. I also picked VDLP to avoid that stress. Ahead of me reports are that it is reduced. But then again it looks to be random.
I considered that, and maybe that’s what I should have done. But I’m in the bus now to Aldeanueva. I should be there before noon so will walk to Bano de Montemayor. I was able to make a reservation at a private albergue there. Hopefully this gets me out of the bubble I may have been in and I won’t have any more problems finding a bed. I’ll update in a day or two.
I finished yesterday. Municipals and donativos were never full but twice I saw private albergues sell out. You meet more people as well. Anyway, it is your Camino, enjoy it. Buen Camino.
Found a beautiful albergue at Baños de Montemayor. Albergue Turístico Vía de la Plata. The little town is beautiful as well. A bit of a change from the somewhat nondescript towns I’ve been stopping as so far. But it’s Monday, and once again almost every place is closed. Found the o ly bar open for another hour so could get a bocadilla. Sundays and Mondays can be tough finding food and drink.
Depends on your own point of view. For me walking every step of a pilgrimage from start to finish is very important. Skipping a section by bus or taxi would undermine the whole journey for me. I'd rather just keep walking to the next village or find somewhere to bivvy outdoors than do that. On the VdlP I have occasionally broken up the longer stages by sleeping outdoors when the weather allowed.When one is walking 1007 km taking a bus doesn't seem too bad.
I’m from Western Canada (thick blood) and was planning to go mid February but couldnt get it together in time. So thats why I was asking as I’m also curious about spring on the trailI'm bad with the heat so i walked earlier in the year.
Where and when are you starting?
A few weeks ago in ourense the temps hit 32 degrees by 3pm or so. Impossible for me, so i started walking at 7 one day and 6.30 the next. But since before easter this year, from maybe a week before Salamanca, the days have been overcast and often wet and cold. There's probably the same chance of temps being higher than average as lower than average.
To be safe, start from Seville in winter. It should be mild. You'll probably have more chance of foul weather especially as you go further north, but you can't have it every way.
Further north eg salamanca they often say 9 months invierno (winter) 3 months infierno (hell). Once you get to galicia the weather will be wetter and milder
If you run out of peanut butter - and for those who don’t have any- don’t forget you can buy turrón ! Wonderful stuff!I do have a jar of peanut butter I’ve been carrying since seville. It’s better than nothing.
Unfortunately now the common rule in municipals is that u can also book them as well so here on Francis it can be they r also all booked out like last night here in Age. All full by midday!You could try a municipal albergue. First come first served. There's one in Grimaldi, 12 beds only 8km from Canaveral. Almost everyone has to stay in Canaveral because it is 33 km from Casar de Caseres with nothing in between. Things should spread out a bit after that.
I stayed there. Very nice it is too,Found a beautiful albergue at Baños de Montemayor. Albergue Turístico Vía de la Plata. The little town is beautiful as well. A bit of a change from the somewhat nondescript towns I’ve been stopping as so far. But it’s Monday, and once again almost every place is closed. Found the o ly bar open for another hour so could get a bocadilla. Sundays and Mondays can be tough finding food and drink.
Very useful to know. I hate the bed race thing and was going to continue with my VDLP (still have Merida to SdC to complete) on 18th May. I plan taking a bivvy bag, so I can do a responsible wild camp if Albergues are full, or if there are times I end the day in the middle of nowhere.One reason for me choosing the VDLP is to avoid the constant stress of the bed race on the busier routes. Alas I haven’t escaped it. Literally every bed (that I’m able to contact) is full from where I am (Canaveral) for the next 45km or so. Everywhere I contacted last night and this morning are ‘completo’. The albergue at the next stop has 20 beds and they are all booked. I suspect/hope I'm just in a bubble. Seems to be about 30-40 walking the same stage as me, making it a bed race, ala the CF. I’ve looked at every option (under 100 euros) and there’s no way I can walk to a bed tonight. So I’m going to try taking a bus to Aldeanueva del Camino, about an hour away by bus. Hopefully that will get me out of this bubble. Racing for a bed every day on the VDLP is not what I signed up for. The stages are too long and accommodation to sparse for this nonsense.
Just an FYI for others about to embark.
That's amazingly light. How heavy is your sleeping bag and how warm? Rather than tarp I was thinking of a bivvy (360g) but I'm still at 4.3kg without sleeping bag (hoping to sleep with my clothing on, in a silk liner in the bivvy...???). Do you have problems with mosquitos, with your setup? I saw a hooped bivvy with mozzie mesh vent opening but it pushes my pack weight up to 4.8kg. As I want to run 20km of the way each day (I enjoy running), this would be getting heavy.For me there is no competition for beds. I also don't book beds in advance. If I can't get a bed in a hostel, I sleep in my tarp (tarp from zpacks = 147 g, sleeping pad TaR ProLite Small = 378 g) somewhere in the wilderness. My backpack with equipment still only weighs 4.2 kg (without food and water). The magic word is ultralight trekking. In Germany, the ultralight trekking scene can be found in the forum https://www.ultraleicht-trekking.com.
I walked it in June so temperatures at night were high, prob. Mid twenties I can’t remember but high enough to make sleeping in albergues (obv. without a/c) very unpleasant. We often all ended on the patio on garden chairs.What have night temperatures been like, and have there been a lot of mosquitos?
Of course, if possible I sleep in hostels. I prefer the public pilgrim hostels. If I can't find a bed there, I'll use my tarp. I'll have to carry it with me, but it's worth it to me. Going out early in the morning with a headlamp just to find a bed in time is not my style of hiking.That's amazingly light. How heavy is your sleeping bag and how warm? Rather than tarp I was thinking of a bivvy (360g) but I'm still at 4.3kg without sleeping bag (hoping to sleep with my clothing on, in a silk liner in the bivvy...???). Do you have problems with mosquitos, with your setup? I saw a hooped bivvy with mozzie mesh vent opening but it pushes my pack weight up to 4.8kg. As I want to run 20km of the way each day (I enjoy running), this would be getting heavy.
Thanks for the infoI walked it in June so temperatures at night were high, prob. Mid twenties I can’t remember but high enough to make sleeping in albergues (obv. without a/c) very unpleasant. We often all ended on the patio on garden chairs.
My point is, there were no mosquitoes!
That's very useful information. Many thanks. I think I'll get the Alpkit Hunka (360g), silk liner (126g) and a suspendable mosquito net (90g, just needs the head end tied up to an object or draped over a rucksack placed by your head so the mesh doesn't touch your face).Of course, if possible I sleep in hostels. I prefer the public pilgrim hostels. If I can't find a bed there, I'll use my tarp. I'll have to carry it with me, but it's worth it to me. Going out early in the morning with a headlamp just to find a bed in time is not my style of hiking.
My quilt is from AsTucas (APEX 133, comfort temperature approx. 10°C, weight 525 g). When temperatures are lower, I sleep in my hiking clothes. I don't have any problems with mosquitoes because I added a mosquito net to my tarp. You can read how I did this in my blog (MYOG project C20). That would go too far here.
In February/March 2024 I walked the Caminho Portugues from Lisbon to SdC. There was obviously a big problem with bed bugs in some hostels there. In hostels I only sleep in my bivouac bag (also from AsTucas) and, if the temperatures require it, in my quilt.
In summary, my sleeping setup inside consists of a bivy bag and quilt, but never with the blankets that may be available in the hostels. For outside, i.e. in emergencies, I use the tarp, the sleeping mat, the bivy bag and the quilt.
I'm also thinking about using a waterproof bivy bag instead of the tarp. Wild camping is also forbidden in Spain/Portugal, but as far as I know, a bivouac bag is not. That's why I bought a bivouac bag from Alpkit (Kloke, 306 g). Its pack size is only half the size of the tarp. I will therefore be traveling with a waterproof bivouac bag on the Way of St. James in Spain/Portugal in the future. That's only for emergencies.
It’s 6:10pm, and so far I’m the only one in my albergue… so hopefully I’ve escaped the crowd for the moment at least.
Another lesson I’ve learned - the price of accommodation in the bigger cities doubles on weekends. I was hoping to reach Salamanca during midweek, but looks like I’ll be there Thursday and Friday night, if I hurry. Friday night is twice the cost of Thursday. Cheapest I can find is 88 euros for the two nights. That’s a single room with private bath. If I’m taking a rest day I want a private bath.
WeirdOne reason for me choosing the VDLP is to avoid the constant stress of the bed race on the busier routes. Alas I haven’t escaped it. Literally every bed (that I’m able to contact) is full from where I am (Canaveral) for the next 45km or so. Everywhere I contacted last night and this morning are ‘completo’. The albergue at the next stop has 20 beds and they are all booked. I suspect/hope I'm just in a bubble. Seems to be about 30-40 walking the same stage as me, making it a bed race, ala the CF. I’ve looked at every option (under 100 euros) and there’s no way I can walk to a bed tonight. So I’m going to try taking a bus to Aldeanueva del Camino, about an hour away by bus. Hopefully that will get me out of this bubble. Racing for a bed every day on the VDLP is not what I signed up for. The stages are too long and accommodation to sparse for this nonsense.
Just an FYI for others about to embark.
But I never encountered mosquitoes on the VdlP… Did anyone else? Maybe I was just lucky.and a suspendable mosquito net (90g, just needs the head end tied up to an object or draped over a rucksack placed by your head so the mesh doesn't touch your face).
Me neither. But mostly I walked the VdlP in the middle of winter when they might have had to break the ice to get out of the water.... But those zanzare tigre in the Po valley were horrendous. At one point I had fantasies about draining every rice field and pouring concrete from Genoa to Ravenna!But I never encountered mosquitoes on the VdlP… Did anyone else? Maybe I was just lucky.
Well in my case I thought they might have been roasted by the dry heat!Me neither. But mostly I walked the VdlP in the middle of winter when they might have had to break the ice to get out of the water.... But those zanzare tigre in the Po valley were horrendous. At one point I had fantasies about draining every rice field and pouring concrete from Genoa to Ravenna!
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