Bad Pilgrim
Veteran Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Yes
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If I can go I should start from Deltebre on June 18th...
Yes,Gronze.com also has a little information. Maps of each stage with the names of towns and distances between towns. The star system of difficulty/scenery and an elevation map of each stage. If you open up the description of the camino there is also a little more useful information.
I love the Ebro camino - it's so peaceful yet well signed. Have you looked at my web site? https://snicholl5.wixsite.com/home-site/santiago and Pilgrimage 5 was the Ebro. There's a Diary and a photo album which are down-loadable and may be helpful.
Buen camino, amigo!
Steve.
Oh, those tunnels are so cool! I only had my phone flashlight and was fine. That is a beautiful part of the Ebro on the bike trail.I am reading it right now, bit by bit... Those tunnels look scary, a few stages from Deltebre?! But I never travel without my flashlight (I am used to start walking before sunrise, especially in summer) so I will be prepared for darkness...
Oh, those tunnels are so cool! I only had my phone flashlight and was fine. That is a beautiful part of the Ebro on the bike trail.
I left the Ebro in Zaragoza, or one stage later in Gallur to be more precise, to follow the Castellano-Aragonés, which is a beautiful camino. And it connects with your favorite, the Lana, outside Santo Domingo de Silos!
Are you planning to walk to Logroño?
Edit...plus...The only thing we found was to take a train to Amposta and call the cab, whose number is posted there, to get to Riumar. Rome2Rio suggests that that’s also the case for getting to Deltebre. Looks like train or bus goes only to Amposta. I remember something about buses to Riumar in high season, though.
My blog says that the camino doesn’t actually enter Deltebre, so you will have to have someone point you in the right direction.
In that case, it might be better to take the train to L'Aldea-Amposta-Tortosa from where Hife (www.hife.es) has buses to Deltebre.
A PM to Alan might yield specific information, but he walked from Deltebre in 2015, a while ago.Amposta is a bit more far away from Riumar the L'Ampolla. However, there's no train station in Amposta itself. The train station serving Amposta is at L'Aldea and L'Aldea is something like a kilometer (or a km and a half) closer to Riumar than L'Ampolla.
There's taxi service available in both L'Ampolla and L'Aldea.
There are more trains from Barcelona to L'Aldea than from Barcelona to L'Ampolla.
The Regional Express fare from Barcelona to L'Ampolla is the same than from Barcelona to L'Aldea.
Comming from Barcelona, L'Aldea is more far away (7-8 minutes by train) than L'Ampolla.
Edit...plus...
A PM to Alan might yield specific information, but he walked from Deltebre in 2015, a while ago.
It sounds like you won't need a tank though, as there are taxis.
Oh ye of little faith...According to Hife, there is a bus directly from Barcelona Airport (El Prat?) to Deltebre at 3.15 pm on Thursday - too good to be true?!
The best laid plans.......... But I will try. I already bought my plane ticket, …………………….,,,,……………………….
I’m feeling so positive for you @Bad Pilgrimand book accomodation in Deltebre... if there is any.
I am looking forward to reading your pearls of wisdom
I made it!! I am in Deltebre, in my luxurious hostal Casa Angela! I have been awake since 4 am (and I started the day by walking to my local airport in the morning) so I will sleep like a log tonight. There were a lot of changes with the bus to get to Deltebre, and a few thunderstorms to get through. l thought I would never arrive. But I can confirm that you can go by bus from Barcelona Airport to the Ayuntamiento in Deltebre, there is no need for taxi. Ticket was 24 euros.
I am not in shape to walk more than 20 kms to Sant Carles de la Ràpita tomorrow, but I will give it a try
But I am a city pilgrim and the asphalt will be my friend...
Helpful info already - Thankyou.I can confirm that you can go by bus from Barcelona Airport to the Ayuntamiento in Deltebre, there is no need for taxi. Ticket was 24 euros.
I hope first night in spain helps you refresh and improves your confidence .. I think you’ll surprise yourself. .I am not in shape to walk more than 20 kms to Sant Carles de la Ràpita tomorrow, but I will give it a try
Cheers @Bad Pilgrim . See you are following the " gronze stages " but I guess there are not many other choices to stop?
Yes, I dutifully follow gronze so far! Tomorrow I have to stay in Xerta, I don't see how I would carry on to Benifaillet since I am exhausted, or the station close to it. But accomodation is limited in Xerta. Anyone has a good idea where to stay in Xerta...?
I love the Ebro camino - it's so peaceful yet well signed. Have you looked at my web site? https://snicholl5.wixsite.com/home-site/santiago and Pilgrimage 5 was the Ebro. There's a Diary and a photo album which are down-loadable and may be helpful.
Buen camino, amigo!
Steve.
I know, tomorrow is tricky. Who knows, I might have the strength to carry on to the station in Benifaillet. I won't know until I am in Xerta. And tomorrow is stormy weather again... Although they said there would be thunderstorms today as well but I didn't see much of them.Found Villa Retiro but with 223 € a night I guess a bit steep for us pilgrims...
Hotel Villa Retiro - Hotel Boutique y Restaurante con 1 Estrella Michelin
Hotel Boutique de 5 estrellas y restaurante con 1 Estrella Michelin en Xerta. Edificado en 1890 y habilitado como Hotel Villa Retiro desde 2006.hotelvillaretiro.com
Jeez they know there prices around Xerta.
Cheapest I found while searching the internet is this one ...77 € for a single? Wow.
Of course this albergue style / for groups ( so it seems ) : Albergue Xerta although bookingdotcom says it is fully booked for tomorrow but there is no harm in calling the place.
Precios albergue | albergxerta.cat
» Precios albergue | L’alberg de la Via Verda a Xertawww.albergxerta.cat
Good luck!
I know, tomorrow is tricky. Who knows, I might have the strength to carry on to the station in Benifaillet. I won't know until I am in Xerta. And tomorrow is stormy weather again... Although they said there would be thunderstorms today as well but I didn't see much of them.
If you get to the station in Benifallet, even if they are full, they will pull out a tent for you if you’re a peregrino. It was a very comfortable night, so go for it!!!I know, tomorrow is tricky. Who knows, I might have the strength to carry on to the station in Benifaillet. I won't know until I am in Xerta. And tomorrow is stormy weather again... Although they said there would be thunderstorms today as well but I didn't see much of them.
I am not in shape to walk more than 20 kms to Sant Carles de la Ràpita tomorrow, but I will give it a try
I feel for you. Thank goodness for flat flat flat! No doubt by the time the hills come you'll be in shape, but for now...grf. May your covidtime legs be transformed into camino legs very soon!One of the worst slogs I have had to live through
What an image. No Bad Pilgrim, you: putting up with what the camino throws at you with and elan! And humor in the telling.I had to stand on a bench to avoid the water that came rushing down the street, while I fought to protect myself with my umbrella from the rain that blowed sideways straight into the bus shelter.
Oh, yes. Excellent idea.I will send these picture to the Xunta to give them something to work with...!
Buen CaminoDay 3: Tortosa to Xerta, 17 kms
This day will go down in (my) history as the most expensive day ever on a Camino: 77 euros for a room in Casa Cermines, in Xerta. The thing is that I called Benifallet three times with no answer. I can't keep doing that all day. I also could have asked at the private albergue in Xerta - I was right outside their door - but when I saw "Youth hostel" (in catalan, of course) embroidered above the entrance... Ooh no, not me, not today. I have managed to avoid the STSC (Screaming Teenagers' Summer Camp) so far; I will not fall into their trap again. And I can look forward to a much more convenient price in Gandesa tomorrow.
Today started with a thunderstorm. I found shelter at the last bus stop in the outskirts of Tortosa, just in time. First it hailed, then came the torrential rain. Some of the passing cars had their headlights on, that is how dark it got. I had to stand on a bench to avoid the water that came rushing down the street, while I fought to protect myself with my umbrella from the rain that blew sideways straight into the bus shelter. Luckily there were no more outbursts the rest of the day. But the skies were dark and I kept hearing thunder rolling all the way to Xerta. Once again I was walking next to the canal! I must say I long to see something else tomorrow, for example the ghostly tunnels in the mountains!
Today's pictures are from a flooded Camino (1 picture; don't ask how I got through there) and a bit of sightseeing in Xerta. Lastly a few pictures from the hotel: I think all albergues on the Caminos should look like this, right?? I will send these picture to the Xunta to give them something to work with...!
No, it’s part of a Via Verde, a bike and walking path.Are those tunnels still active rail lines?
No, it’s part of a Via Verde, a bike and walking path.
You can get the key to the Roman mausoleum from a bar in town, then walk out the few kms and open it up yourself. Kind of spooky, but it was pretty cool.
Had I known this, I hadn't needed to search so long for accomodation in Fabara! A night in the mausoleum would beat even the haunted sportshall in Campillo de Altobuey !
Thanks, but I edited my post above adding I have found a place to stay in Fabara!Hope you found something affordable? On first sight I do not see much choice in Fabara....
I definitely will!Stay tuned
BP, you are one of the lucky forum members walking a Camino at this time and your updates are interesting to read.I saw "Youth hostel" (in catalan, of course) embroidered above the entrance... Ooh no, not me, not today. I have managed to avoid the STSC (Screaming Teenagers' Summer Camp) so far; I will not fall into their trap again.
@Bad Pilgrim ! I am delighted to have found this string. I have been building myself a route (as if no one else has ever done this) from Barcelona to Burgos, and like @peregrina2000 , I am considering taking the Ebro to Gallur...but your descriptions may make me change my starting point...
At this point, a 2022 Camino is a nice fantasy for me, but...I am following your progress. Thank you so much!
Yes, that is what is exactly what is currently on paper! I think I would stay on the Frances over the Meseta, because I love the Meseta, then head to the Invierno/Sanabres into Santiago. Haven't thought that part completely through, yet.Hi Suzanne,
I am glad to hear about your plans for 2022! Please tell us more about your route-building! I guess it will be the Castellano-Aragonés then? I am no expert on that one, but it seems like it hooks up with the Camino de la Lana before Burgos. And the Lana is fantastic!!
the dinosaur farm...?? (Picture 2). I didn't spot any dinos though.
Unfortunately, SCI (Screaming Children International) occupied most of the spaces in town when I arrived.
What, are you kidding? The suspense is gripping. Will SCI end up at the dino farm?Don't go anywhere.
This is a wonderful plan you have!I think I would stay on the Frances over the Meseta, because I love the Meseta, then head to the Invierno/Sanabres into Santiago. Haven't thought that part completely through, yet.
I just phoned the Pension Mayor in Escatrón: 26 euros. (Hostal Embarcadero didn't answer.) So I will try to reach Escatrón... Nice to know that Chiprana comes in between: I will definitely have something to eat there! Every day I am thankful to find somewhere to stay as it is not easy in this area...The histoirical thingies will still be there for some time.
And that other couple...say not more! No really I will say no more seeing talking about religion ends not well most of the times...
El Surtidor look nice enough! I do like the hostales that also have a bar . Means breakfast tomorrow morning!
Tomorrow wil be a long etapa, unless you will break up the stage and stop in Chiprana?
Either way : rest well!
I am not one to glorify war, but I do think the tribute that the (conservative Republican) U.S. Senator John McCain (RIP) wrote on the death of the last surviving member of the US brigade is a beautiful eulogy.
If you get to Escatrón tomorrow, go up to the new town and see if there are three women playing parhesi. They may need you as their fourth. I had a great time.
I read glimpses of it: it is hidden behind a pay wall! Fascinating though.
Hi StephenYou have no idea how much I am enjoying this forum - and all the happy memories it brings back. I think it was in Caspe that I saw all the herons, nesting on the ruined roof of a convent, and all facing the same way!! Some things you never forget!
View attachment 103171
Of course they're storks. My flipping memory!!!! S xxHi Stephen
Lovely pic. I would have called them storks. Are they one and the same?
You have no idea how much I am enjoying this forum - and all the happy memories it brings back. I think it was in Caspe that I saw all the herons, nesting on the ruined roof of a convent, and all facing the same way!! Some things you never forget!
View attachment 103171
Oh no, too late... Already booked Pension Mayor in Escatrón. No brawling teenagers, but hordes of doves that have their nest right above my bed!! (Not inside the room though... That would have been rather awkward). Sounds as if they are fighting, mating and raising their kids at the same time. I hope they won't be doing that all night...I’m assuming you have the news about the new Escatrón albergue. Much better than the cement block, windowless cells Annie and I stayed in down by the river. Kind of spooky.
The albergue is new and no screaming teenagers to deal with.
“For Whom the Bell Tolls” ...
What started as a frustrating day ended very well indeed. Sweet dreams!Day 7: Caspe - Escatrón, 30 kms
I left Caspe at around 06:00 since it would be a long day. Some bars were already open. But I decided to wait until Chiprana (9 kms) to have breakfast. My hostal El Surtidor wouldn't open until 07:00: too late for a pilgrim who walks like a turtle and who needs to compete with the midday heat.
Waymarking in Aragón has been impeccable so far. But today I got to this split in the road. (First picture below.) I continued to the left for a while, according to the rule that, if nothing else is indicated, one should follow the road from which one came (in my case: continue on tarmac to left). But there were no arrows, and according to my GPS I was walking in the exact opposite direction to Chiprana. So I walked back to the point of confusion. I was really annoyed by now. Finally I went to the right, which was obviously wrong after all because there were no indications of anything thereafter. But with my GPS I could see I was heading directly to Chiprana, and the road was beautiful and easy walked. First a soft ascent to some kind of plateau, were I could see Chiprana in front of me. Had I not known better, I would have thought I was walking on a calzada romana?! Then down to a flowery country road. Only at the roundabout outside town did the arrows reappear. I think I just invented an alternative camino to Chiprana! Or was it the Camino? I don't understand anything of what happened there...
Chiprana is not in the Camino, but so close you might as well pay a visit. The café El Mirador is only a few hundred meters off Camino and there are probably more bars and places to buy food and stuff. From the roundabout the Camino descends on the road, with impressive views of the lake Maquinenza and of Chiprana itself from a distance. Gronze says that you go off road to the left at 300 mtrs from the roundabout, but this is not true. First you leave to the right, on a trail that goes near the lake. This detour is clearly made to offer an even better view of the lake and of Chiprana (see pictures below), instead of walking down the boring motorway. I say, Chiprana looks good from every angle and it is not even on the Camino...! Getting close to the clear-blue water was a treat in the hot, dry weather. I don't know if swimming is allowed, but as you can see in one of the pictures, you come all the way down to the shoreline.
Then a dry walk through a dusty countryside reminiscent of yesterday, merciless under the sun. But more variated; I really liked the landscape today. There is another lake close to the Camino, Balsa Salada, but I didn't check it out. This would be my longest stage so far and I wanted to arrive in Escatrón before it got too hot.
The last slog is next to the motorway (dirt road), and then a slog after the slog on a smaller road (tarmac) to enter Escatrón. Pensión Mayor is easy to find on Calle Mayor near the church. I obviously wanted an individual room, which I got for 26 euros. But with four beds?! The room is enormous (last picture) and the TV is the size of a movie screen. Is it a pensión or a Casa rural?! Anyway, I don't mind the luxury...!
Tomorrow an even longer challenge: to Quinto!
But you arrived in the end, which is all that matters. Sometimes understanding is impossible.I don't understand anything of what happened there...
The question is - which bed did you choose?
"Serenity Now", abuela!I angrily marched in the opposite direction, to reach the point that both Gronze and Guidebook had indicated on the carretera.
I will need a trough of napolitanas if I am to reach Zaragoza tomorrow...!Holy ensaladilla rusa, a laundromat!!
You're making good progress, BP, so I hope you're able to get your daily quota of napolitanas to fuel all that real walking. We have it easier on this end, following along.
Gracias and buen camino! I'm really enjoying this vicarious journey.
I will need a trough of napolitanas if I am to reach Zaragoza tomorrow...!
A big take-away box?I will need a trough of napolitanas if I am to reach Zaragoza tomorrow
I crossed the railway as soon as I could to seek refuge in Hostal Plaza in Quinto, 26 euros.
I think they have removed them, I don't remember seeing them! And the door to the Pensión looked different. Or I am just not paying attention to details...Just hoping they have managed to extricate those two poor souls by now.
also remember getting lost between Quinto and Fuentes, which seems to be something you avoided.
Hola BP.Day 10: Fuentes de Ebro - Zaragoza, 33 kms
This made me laugh (sorry ) - but it made me think that the mosquitoes had ordered ‘Uber eats ‘ and you arrived with the meal.And there I come by in the morning, like a two-legged buffet to feast on! I had to fend for my life all the way to El Burgo de Ebro.
Those cheeky storks! Every high place ! It must be a nightmare for line maintenance. I have so many photos of storks and nests and babies in nests but I continue to pull out my phone. Adorable.The storks and their nests were sprinkled along the whole stage today. Together with their babies they curiously watched me from above as I walked by
This made me laugh (sorry ) - but it made me think that the mosquitoes had ordered ‘Uber eats ‘ and you arrived with the meal
I don't know, but as of 2012, this chapel was reported to be (almost) always open!next to the Seo is... the chapel of San Pascual Bailón, my homie and favorite saint from the town of Orito on the Camino de la Lana! (La cueva de San Pascual!) What on Earth is he doing here??
By now you’ve already left Zaragoza, but I hope you didn’t have my bad luck. I couldn’t find arrows and opened what turned out to be old GPS tracks, done before the fancy new train station was built. As a result I was going up and down, over barriers to get on closed streets, turning what should have been a nice walk along the river into a nightmare. I’m assuming again that you were smarter found the walk from the cathedral.
Yeah, some hiccup there, apparantly. Jabbapappa was there a little while back and here's what he said:All I can do is to walk to Gallur tomorrow and see what happens
There's some administrative mic-mac at the Albergue, as they need a certificate issued by people do not work on Sundays. See if something can be worked out.
The place is open, but they have not re-established their guest ID notification measures with the Guardia Civil post-reopening yet, so that you can eat or drink here, but not sleep.
So maybe they have that certification, maybe not. Anyway, ask around; it sounds like a town with heart.I think that they actually were thinking about how to get 'round this for me, but there was a guy at the bar, we got talking, and he offered a place to sleep in the cabin of a lorry/truck ; then it turned out that my compañero José had made friends with others in that local group of friends that I had sort of got in with earlier in my own way, so that the already kind offer of a place to sleep became a cerveza party in a bar in town, a separate offer of a place to stay for José, and a grilled chorizo feast later. Very pleasant, and I slept most excellently. Cold shower, and it was fine,
He stayed in Ribaforada, but did not mention where, so I'm guessing the albergue's open there? It was a congenial place, he said .Mallén:
Albergue status : CERRADO.
Yeah, some hiccup there, apparantly. Jabbapappa was there a little while back and here's what he said:
So maybe they have that certification, maybe not. Anyway, ask around; it sounds like a town with heart.
And heas-up if you contemplate going a little farther on:
He stayed in Ribaforada, but did not mention where, so I'm guessing the albergue's open there? It was a congenial place, he said .
So many happy memories brought back by your beautiful photos. I would be totally incapable of walking the distances you walked each day! 20 kms is my maximum, and I mean maximum!! Onward you go, Bad Pilgrim!!! Steve in England.Day 8: Escatrón - Quinto, 32 kms
I am doing a shorter stage tomorrow so I will stay in Fuentes de Ebro, 18 kms from here. Tag along!
Keep going, Bad Pilgrim. We're all with you in spirit!
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