LIVE from the Camino Camino de Madrid

[peregrina2000]

One of the hazards of using unfamiliar computers in far away places is that you frequently lose your nice long posts. grrrr.

I am in Madrid, arrived this morning at 7:30 from Chicago, and by 10 am I had checked into my hotel (near one of my favorite little squares in Madrid, the Plaza de Olavide, where the tortilla de patatas is quite good), mailed my duffle bag up to Santiago and was drinking a cafe con leche in front of the Iglesia de Santiago waiting for the priest to come and stamp my credencial.

I was wondering how I was going to fill my after walking hours (since it´s pretty clear it won´t be spent witha lot of other peregrinos), since my travel day was so hectic with so many rushes and delays that I was unable to buy a book or two for the walk. And, you guessed it, St. James does provide, on the way to the church, on Calle Campomanes 15, there was an English language used book store. So for 7 euros I got two paperbacks! Very nice staff and a little bit of everything on their shelves.

Lots of Santiago Matamoros in the church, but there was one nice peregrino statue as well, so I ignored the alter-ego. After a chat with the priest, who insisted on drawing me a map from Madrid up to Valverde del Camino, I walked from the church up to Plaza de Castilla and saw the first arrow, where I will start tomorrow. I´ve had good hints from caminando, crackmrmac, and alipilgrim,so I will just follow their footsteps. Thanks to everyone for all the help.

Buen camino a todos, Laurie

 

[ivar]

Buen Camino Laurie!!!!

Greetings from Santiago... 28c and sunny today!!
Ivar

 

[Caminando]

One of the hazards of using unfamiliar computers in far away places is that you frequently lose your nice long posts. grrrr.

I am in Madrid, arrived this morning at 7:30 from Chicago, and by 10 am I had checked into my hotel (near one of my favorite little squares in Madrid, the Plaza de Olavide, where the tortilla de patatas is quite good), mailed my duffle bag up to Santiago and was drinking a cafe con leche in front of the Iglesia de Santiago waiting for the priest to come and stamp my credencial.

I was wondering how I was going to fill my after walking hours (since it´s pretty clear it won´t be spent witha lot of other peregrinos), since my travel day was so hectic with so many rushes and delays that I was unable to buy a book or two for the walk. And, you guessed it, St. James does provide, on the way to the church, on Calle Campomanes 15, there was an English language used book store. So for 7 euros I got two paperbacks! Very nice staff and a little bit of everything on their shelves.


Lots of Santiago Matamoros in the church, but there was one nice peregrino statue as well, so I ignored the alter-ego. After a chat with the priest, who insisted on drawing me a map from Madrid up to Valverde del Camino, I walked from the church up to Plaza de Castilla and saw the first arrow, where I will start tomorrow. I´ve had good hints from caminando, crackmrmac, and alipilgrim,so I will just follow their footsteps. Thanks to everyone for all the help.

Buen camino a todos, Laurie

Hi Laurie, from Alcazaren

I´m very glad you´re on your way tomorrow. The weather is fine and you have many excellent 5 star days to come. The beauty and real camino spirit of this way is unsurpassed IMO.

There are 3 or places so far where the arrows go in two directions. Depending on your guidebook this can be confusing. But generally it seems that both ways are valid. I picked up a inet guide by the Amigos de Santiago de Segovia, and that cleared up some future confusion.

PS Ifyou arrive in Segovia at the end of a long day in the mountains, completely done in as I was, then take the bus No 8 from Acueducto to Zamarramala (3kms)if you want the alb there. Or there is an alb.juvenil in Seg. Free inet in library in Seg - show a passport or something.

In Villeguillo,thehosp, Pilar,is so welcoming. Remember tho´the alb has no blankets.

buen camino

 

[Deleted member 3000]

peregrina2000 wrote:One of the hazards of using unfamiliar computers in far away places is that you frequently lose your nice long posts. grrrr.

I am in Madrid, arrived this morning at 7:30 from Chicago, and by 10 am I had checked into my hotel (near one of my favorite little squares in Madrid, the Plaza de Olavide, where the tortilla de patatas is quite good), mailed my duffle bag up to Santiago and was drinking a cafe con leche in front of the Iglesia de Santiago waiting for the priest to come and stamp my credencial.

I was wondering how I was going to fill my after walking hours (since it´s pretty clear it won´t be spent witha lot of other peregrinos), since my travel day was so hectic with so many rushes and delays that I was unable to buy a book or two for the walk. And, you guessed it, St. James does provide, on the way to the church, on Calle Campomanes 15, there was an English language used book store. So for 7 euros I got two paperbacks! Very nice staff and a little bit of everything on their shelves.


Lots of Santiago Matamoros in the church, but there was one nice peregrino statue as well, so I ignored the alter-ego. After a chat with the priest, who insisted on drawing me a map from Madrid up to Valverde del Camino, I walked from the church up to Plaza de Castilla and saw the first arrow, where I will start tomorrow. I´ve had good hints from caminando, crackmrmac, and alipilgrim,so I will just follow their footsteps. Thanks to everyone for all the help.

Buen camino a todos, Laurie



Hi Laurie, from Alcazaren

I´m very glad you´re on your way tomorrow. The weather is fine and you have many excellent 5 star days to come. The beauty and real camino spirit of this way is unsurpassed IMO.

There are 3 or places so far where the arrows go in two directions. Depending on your guidebook this can be confusing. But generally it seems that both ways are valid. I picked up a inet guide by the Amigos de Santiago de Segovia, and that cleared up some future confusion.

PS Ifyou arrive in Segovia at the end of a long day in the mountains, completely done in as I was, then take the bus No 8 from Acueducto to Zamarramala (3kms)if you want the alb there. Or there is an alb.juvenil in Seg. Free inet in library in Seg - show a passport or something.

In Villeguillo,thehosp, Pilar,is so welcoming. Remember tho´the alb has no blankets.

buen camino

Have a great walk. It looks like there has been a long stretch of fantastic weather. Here's hoping it holds up for you!

 

[peregrina2000]

Day 1 to Colmenar el Viejo, not exactly a pilgrim friendly place, but the walk was quite nice. Lots of flowers and those bushes with tons of bright yellow flowers, the occasional jara bush, and 5 or 6 stream crossings on stepping stones added to the enjoyment.

I was unable to find the cheap Hostal Chabeli, though I spent a long time with the owner on the phone. For some reason it isn´t where the sign for it is. So I wound up at the fancier 3-star Hostal Chiscon. Fine, no pilgrim vibe though.

I don´t know how I do it, but I am a pro at getting lost. This morning, after passing the second pedestrian bridge over to 3 Cantos, I took a long rest under a pine tree. When I put my stuff back on and started to walk, I somehow ignored the arrow pointing to the right and down. After about 20 km going on some very nice vias pecuarias, I hit a river and there were no arrows still, so I turned back. Sure enough, there it was. I would say it wasn´t totally obvious so if any of you are coming behind, keep your eyes peeled when you pass 3 Cantos. At one point, soon after some construction, the wide main path goesto straight, but there is a not totally obvious (said in self defense) arrow pointing to the right.

The only other confusion is in Madrid. After the new 4 towers, Eurostar, or whatever they are called, at the MacDonalds, there is a not obvious arrow to the left. Then winding around a bit, an arrow points straight ahead, you cross a street, and there is no arrow. Straight would take you into the university medical campus. Turn right, you will see arrows in a little while. If you are lost soon after the Castellana, just ask for Hospital Ramon y Cajal, and you will see the arrows once there. After that, no problem, till 3 Cantos (at least for the directionally challenged among us).

Caminando, you´re not too far ahead of me. Thanks for the tips. I will probably go into a hostal in Segovia so I can spend some time playing tourist.

Weather is great, welcome clouds every now and then, and spring is still with us! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[CaroleH]

Hi Laurie,
Great to hear you have started on the Madrid, and now I have finally found a computer again after about a week, and can make contact. Your postings bring back lots of memories for me. You´ll find there´s more of a pilgrim feel, albergues etc after Segovia, well, after Ane maybe.

Quick question, how many other pilgs are you meeting in albergues? We are in Salamanca finally, on the VdlP, after lots of ups and downs, and have to make decisions today, about whether to continue on here, where there are many pilgs now, and the albergues are filled most nights. Are tossing up the idea of heading across to Madid and redoing the camino de M. maybe from Cercedilla. It´s and appealing idea, tho now, of course we ´ve made some fun friends here and it´s great to catch up with people we have met before. It´s amazing how the Vdlp numbers have grown.

Anyway, looking forward to reading your posts as we procrastinate. Had exactly the same problems as you over the hostal chavelli, even talking on the phone and then not being able to find it.
Buen camino peregrina. Carole

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Carole and others,
I am now in Puente Duero, about 10 km outside Valladolid. I have been walking with two Spanish guys, whom I met in the oficina de turismo in Manzanares el Viejo, and we have seen an occasional ciclista, but other than that we have been alone. A quick run-down of our stops:

Day 2-- albergue in Manzanares, up about 2 km in an old ermita on a big rock in the middle of nowhere, quiet, beautiful and just nowhere.

Day 3 -- Cercedilla --in the youth hostel run by the Junta de Madrid. They reserve two small rooms for pilgrims, 12 E a night. Clean sheets and ontop of that, they are ironed!

Day 4 -- Segovia. in Pension Don Jaime, very clean and basic 32 € for a single. WOW, what a walk. Overthe puerto de Fuenfria on the Roman Road, just spectacular, and then a few kms along the ridge before descending to the meseta.

Day 5 -- Santa Maria El Real de la Nieva. Private albergue run by a very nice guy who turned what used to be a house for migrant workers into an albergue. He told me how when he was a kid in town it really got to him to see kids his age working the fields and living in this small house, so the albergue is in his mind a tribute to them, as we are migrants as well.

Day 6 -- Coca. A real wow-zer castle. Albergue in the old teachers house. Four bedrooms upstairs with about 16 beds total. Very nice

Day 7 -- Alcazaren. >New albergue, on the outskirts of town, but I don´t think anyone has cleaned this place since it opened a year ago. I would have cleaned it some, but there were no mops, brushes, etc. It´s really too bad, because the building is fine, new, hotwater, etc,but no attention.

Day 8 -- Puente Duero. A real peregrino albergue, with a French hospitalera. From here I will take a rest day in Valladolid and hope to write more tomorrow.

This is a very remote camino. You rarely see anyone. I met up with two Spanish peregrinos and havebeen walking with themfor a few days, but will leave them tomorrow. And tomorrow the pine forests end,and the flat, shade-less meseta begins!

Weather has been beautiful, but it is getting hot. We have been leaving around 6:30 to avoid the mid-day sun. I recommend this route to people who don´t mind being alone, it is very well marked but very solitary.

So, Carole, if you come on over,I may see you. I will be in Valladolid tomorrow and then just walk to Cigunuela tomorrow afternoon. I plan to make it to Sahagun around next Tuesday. Laurie

 

[CaroleH]

Thanks Laurie for the great update. Sounds similar to 2009 for numbers or lack of. Also seems like you must be walking big distances. Continue to enjoy and buen camino. Carole

 

[peregrina2000]

In Valladolid -- just goes to show you how wrong impressions can be. I had never heard much about Valladolid and just assumed it was a pretty uninspiring place. I was wrong -- the casco histórico is really very nice -- pedestrian friendly, lots of squares, churches, beautiful old apartment buildings. I spent a long time at the Museo de Escultura (whose name has now been officially changed to Museo de San Gregorio,I think) and cannot for the life of me figure out how Berruguete had enough time to do all the stunning wood carving that is one display there. Lots of saints, but no Santiago.

The 6 kms from Puente Duero to Simancas are flat, off but paralleling a minor highway, and through what is reputed to be the last pine forest on the Camino de Madrid. I left my two walking buddies there, they headed on, while I hopped on a bus to downtown Valladolid. But not until we had walked up to the top of Simancas and visited the plaza mayor, the archivo histórico (which is housed in a building that looks like a French chateau), and had a coffee overlooking the long puente románico. The bus came straight from Simancas to the Plaza Zorilla, one of the main squares outside the Plaza Mayor, so it was a 1.10€ bargain.

I´m in the Hotel Roma, a fairly basic place, but it has a computer with internet in the lobby and is right next to the Iglesia Santiago, so how could I pass it up?

Our hospitalera last night in Puente Duero informed us that the crowds on the Francés and out to Finisterre are crushing (at least that is what she has heard), so I´ve decided to chop the Finisterre part off my camino and just spend the extra days on the Madrid and on the Invierno (if it´s as crowded as she says, I will rush through the 7 days I have on the Francés to get from one to the other). But in the meantime, I´m enjoying the solitude and the sights on this Camino and encourage you all to come see what it´s like to meet no pilgrims on an average day´s walk. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[SansTerre]

Oh Laurie! I will be following you through your journey on the Camino Madrid and wish I was taking it myself. I leave San Francisco on Friday and arrive to Madrid Saturday afternoon just for a few days on business. I'm contemplating on getting credentials and doing a short Camino walk just to feel like a pilgrim again even for a day. Do you know if I can get credentials at the cathedral in Madrid on Saturday afternoon?

Buen Camino!

Maria

 

[CaroleH]

Laurie, good to hear you enjoyed Valladolid??.... good luck on the Invierno. We have given up ideas on doing it and also decided against redoing the Madrid for a number of reasons..... will let you and Reb blaze the Invierno trail. Crowds still up on Vdlp, so much so that we are having another rethink.... bus yesterday to Zamora make up for earlier days lost, and thinking of giving some more of this route a miss and doing the Camino Englis at the end.

The wild flowers have been just stunning....
Buen camino. Take care. Carole

 

[peregrina2000]

I suppose that technically I should not be posting under this heading, since I am no longer on the Camino de Madrid, but firmly ensconced on the Camino Francés. What a change! From being alone in a big modern albergue and seeing no one during the day, to the stream of humanity I now see in all directions.

I´ve kept lots of notes on the Camino de Madrid, which I will post when I get back, because there are several key places where things get very confusing. But all in all, if you´re thinking about fleeing the crowds of the Francés, try the Madrid. I highly recommend it.

I made it to Sahagún two days ago, after a huge push from Villalón. I think it was probably my longest etapa ever, especially if you add in the two times I got lost! The 45 minute downpour didn´t help anything either. The angel from Moratinos, AKA Rebekah, came to pick me up in Sahagún and I spent two wonderful nights and a fun day with her and Paddy. They took me to Pili´s place in Villada, where I had a cochinillo that was out of this world (and that coming from someone who rarely eats meat!). We spent the afternoon going back over the last 40 km of the Madrid, with a can of flourescent yellow spray paint, so we could clear up the trouble spots. It was really a great way to spend the afternoon.

So here I am in Burgo Ranero, a nice adobe albergue, with bedrooms with 4 bunks each. I am still feeling kind of like a stranger (which I am), but so far I´ve walked with Germans, a Cuban woman, and a Brazilian -- more human contact in 6 hours than I had on the whole Camino de Madrid! I look forward to these next days on the Francés. Buen camino a todos. Laurie

 

[CaroleH]

Buen camino Laurie,

Wow, that was a long stage from villalon.... look forward to reading more from you on your return. Also thinking of you on the Invierno and looking forward to hearing more about that. Keep smiling and breathing as you face the crowds of the Frances. :shock: :lol:
Cheers, Carole