LIVE from the Camino Camino Madrid Starting 11 Sep 23

[MikeJS]

Off to Gatwick airport tomorrow and hope to land in Madrid around 1430 to start my next camino. I will try to update this thread daily. Expect to use the train to get to Sol and then stroll to Iglesia Santiago y San Juan Bautista. I think it will not be open until 1800 to get my first stamp so will probably eat lunch before heading out to my first night’s accommodation.

 

[David Tallan]

If you get there during mass, they do a pilgrim blessing (at least they did they day I showed up).

 

[Anniesantiago]

Enjoy!
It's one of my favorite routes.
Don't miss the church at Wamba (call ahead to get let in)
Good walking!

 

[Albertagirl]

I'll be flying to Madrid on Sept. 29 and starting my walk on Oct. 02. I should like to see the church at Wamba, which I missed on my last time through on the Madrid. Could someone please give me the phone number and any other information which I need to get in to see the church? What I have read indicates that the church is open when a group with a booking arrives by bus in the afternoon. From what I know about open accommodation on the Madrid, after walking past Wamba it would be too late for me to get to another place to stay if I stopped my walk to view the church when it is usually open to visitors.

 

[Anniesantiago]

You can call the night before or a few days before and make an appointment for someone to let you in.

 

[Albertagirl]

Thank you.
I have looked at my walking schedule, which has several bookings already made, and discovered that I cannot visit Wamba on either Saturday or Sunday. I have their telephone number, so shall call the day before and see if there might be anyone available to let me in when I arrive.

 

[Laurie Sanantone]

The church is open for tours (in Spanish) on Saturdays and Sundays from 11:00-1:30 and 4:30-6:30.
I stayed in Cigunuela on a Saturday night, so I easily covered 7km and arrived in Wamba for the 11:00 Tour. Then I walked on to Peñaflor, 7.7km further, and stayed in the Albergue there.

 

[David Tallan]

The church is open for tours (in Spanish) on Saturdays and Sundays from 11:00-1:30 and 4:30-6:30.
I stayed in Cigunuela on a Saturday night, so I easily covered 7km and arrived in Wamba for the 11:00 Tour. Then I walked on to Peñaflor, 7.7km further, and stayed in the Albergue there.

What a coincidence. I did precisely the same, walking from Ciguñuela to Peñaflor de Hornija on a Sunday so I could tour Wamba with ease.

 

[Mrs. Bloem]

Looking forward to your post.
Buen camino!

 

[MikeJS]

Started well with the flight being on time. Landed in terminal T4s which meant a short ‘train’ ride to the exit. Found the way to the RENFE station ok and managed to negotiate the ticket machine with no major hiccups! Expected to get line C1 to Chamartin and the change to C4 for Sol. However, when I got off at Chamartin it turns out there are works going on so I could not change lines there. Found out I should have stayed on the first train until Nuevos Ministerios and then changed for Sol. At least I found my way in the end. Then a short walk to Iglesia Santiago y San Juan Bautista and a wait until 1800 for it to open. Turns out there is a Camino marker and map for the Camino in the square outside the church now. After getting my credencial stamped at the church I had a short 10 km stroll to my first nights accommodation along the Camino at Hostal Royal Begona. I mostly followed a Wikiloc track as the Camino passes within about 200m of the room. It was a simple enough stroll, although I am no fan of cities. Saw a couple of other Camino markers on the way but nothing consistent. Off to Gran Hostal El Chiscón at Colmenar Viejo tomorrow.

 

[peregrina2000]

Buen camino, @MikeJS! Looking forward to hearing all about it.

I stayed in the Hostal el Chiscón when I walked the Madrid, and for some reason all I remember is that the floors were cold, shiny big red tiles!

 

[OzAnnie]

Buen camino @MikeJS
That is a really clear map (pic attached above ) - the one you describe here:

Iglesia Santiago y San Juan Bautista and a wait until 1800 for it to open. Turns out there is a Camino marker and map for the Camino in the square outside the church now.

It’s not hard to find the way but that map is really good.

Such a good feel to the CdM.
Buen camino

 

[David Tallan]

Wow! That's all new. When I was there a few months ago there was nothing at all until north if Cuatro Caminos.

 

[JillGat]

Are there other recommended starting places for the Madrid Camino?

 

[David Tallan]

All the pilgrims I met more than once on the route started from their front door. (So did I, after a fashion.)

 

[MikeJS]

Are there other recommended starting places for the Madrid Camino?

As always, you can start from where ever you want. It simply worked out welll for me to start from the ‘formal’ beginning and my minor OCD makes it work for me!

 

[MikeJS]

Buen camino, @MikeJS! Looking forward to hearing all about it.

I stayed in the Hostal el Chiscón when I walked the Madrid, and for some reason all I remember is that the floors were cold, shiny big red tiles!

The Hostal I chose was simply convenient. I wanted somewhere towards the outskirts of Madrid that I could comfortably walk to knowing I would be waiting for the church to open at 1800. The room is small, but very clean and has everything I need, plus a small complementary chocolate bar. Also plenty of places very near by for food and drink.

 

[jsalt]

I think it will not be open until 1800 to get my first stamp

Buen camino! Is the church open earlier in the day? For example, if our flights arrived early morning, could we get our credencials stamped about midday?

 

[JWB]

Parish Church of Santiago and San Juan Bautista: When the church is officially open to the public (Monday to Saturday from 10am to 1pm and from 6pm to 8pm; Sundays and public holidays from 11am to 1pm and from 6pm to 8pm) in the sacristy.

 

[Laurie Sanantone]

CdeM pilgrims: Just a reminder that you will be asked for your passport with you when you pick up your credential.

 

[MikeJS]

Off to Colmenar Viejo about 27kms. Left the hotel on the outskirts of Madrid at around 0730. It was dry and warm at the start but probably nearer 26 degrees c by the time I stopped. The route out was marked but not reliably. I do wish they would stick to the simple yellow arrows as then you know what to look for. I used Mapy.cz and Wikiloc to navigate. Once the suburbs ended and I got ink to the more open space the markings were much better. The official markers, Mapy.cz and Wikiloc all showed the same route until near the end of the open area just before you get back near to the road and railway. At this point the arrows had been remarked and showed a different route to my maps. However, a quick check showed the old route was closed so now you just go the other side of the rail line. Rest of the way into Tres Cantos was straightforward. I did not stop to detour into Tres as I intended to stop on the route to eat my lovely fresh roll with tuna and olive oil. After the short break I headed off towards my day’s destination. A well marked route that crosses a river about 11 times. All crossings had the normal stone blocks as stepping stones but a few were missing. Luckily, I only lost my balance once. However, glad I was not there a week or so ago when they had torrential range. You can still see the scars in the landscape. Arrived at the Grand Hostel El Chiscon in Colmenar Viejo just after 1300. Must say it was bigger and grander than I expected. I plan to eat on the Hostel tonight as there does not seem to be much else in the immediate area and it popular at lunch. Off to Cercedilla tomorrow. It’s 1500 and I can hear thunder and lightning close by. I hope it’s all gone by tomorrow.

 

[MikeJS]

The storms and rain stayed away and all was great last night. Opted to eat at the hotel which proved to be a good choice. A bottle of wine and a bottle of water plus a 3 course meal with coffee was only 16 euros. It was a great walk today. Left at 0730 and arrived in Cercedilla at 1500. Recorded as 36kms. Route out of Colmenar Viejo is well marked and follows a grit and granite tack for most of the way to Manzanares de Real. Mostly easy walking with a few scrambles. Had 2nd breakfast in MdR at Hostel La Pedriza. Coffee and a lovely chunk of tortilla. Got here just before 1030. Rest of the route was well marked but could have done with more shade. There was some talk in previous threads about avoiding the big loop in the road after Navacerrada and using the GR route instead that cuts across. When I walked there today there was a Camino arrow just after the big restaurant where you cross the M-601 that took a path to the left and cut a big section off. Even better it had a fair bit of shade. Photo from Mapy.cz attached. Staying in the Hostal Longinos tonight ready for the high trek tomorrow to Segovia.

 

[JWB]

Enjoy the beautiful trek tomorrow, lot of stony Roman roads to the top. After the high top splendid views and nice down walking to Segovia.

 

[Albertagirl]

@MikeJS
I too made a reservation in Hostal Longinus for when I walk through there in a couple of weeks. It is the furthest along that I could find a bed at a reasonable price, as both Villa Castora and Albergue Las Dehesas are booked for my date. On my last time through on the Madrid, I walked by the way of Valsain, where I spent the night, then walked on to Segovia by the road. I would much prefer to stay on the direct route this time, but am not confident of my capacity to walk the direct route in one day from Cercedilla. I shall be looking for what you, and any other pilgrim, have to say about your walk along this route.

 

[NualaOC]

On my last time through on the Madrid, I walked by the way of Valsain, where I spent the night, then walked on to Segovia by the road. I would much prefer to stay on the direct route this time, but am not confident of my capacity to walk the direct route in one day from Cercedilla. I shall be looking for what you, and any other pilgrim, have to say about your walk along this route.

@Albertagirl - for what it's worth, I suggest trusting your gut on this. If you don't feel confident about your capacity to do this in one day, perhaps listen to that voice!

There's nothing complicated about the walk from Puerto de la Fuenfría to Segovia, but I recall it feeling really long with no shade or intermediate stopping points. Despite being very fit that year, and having a head-start by staying in the youth hostel, I was totally exhausted on arrival in Segovia. I could barely speak when checking in to my hostel!

Wishing you well with your planning and walking. Nuala

​

 

[MikeJS]

@MikeJS
I too made a reservation in Hostal Longinus for when I walk through there in a couple of weeks. It is the furthest along that I could find a bed at a reasonable price, as both Villa Castora and Albergue Las Dehesas are booked for my date. On my last time through on the Madrid, I walked by the way of Valsain, where I spent the night, then walked on to Segovia by the road. I would much prefer to stay on the direct route this time, but am not confident of my capacity to walk the direct route in one day from Cercedilla. I shall be looking for what you, and any other pilgrim, have to say about your walk along this route.

I will be posting today’s story shortly but thought I would answer your question first. It is a tough first 8km but well worth it. The marked route is a bit of a scramble for the last few kms but there are plenty of other options. Just look on mapy.cz

 

[MikeJS]

Cercedilla to Segovia 30km

Had a late lunch (1630) in Cercedilla yesterday as nothing near the Hostal and I was not sure if the ones in town would serve dinner. Left at 0730 and got to the Hostal at 1400. Great walk today and quite tough. I even had to stop a few times for a rest. Certainly matches some of the harder days on the Norte and Olvidado. Just about straight uphill from the Hostal for about 8km to the highest point of about 1800m. The first half is simple enough as it is either by the road or on forest tracks. Then you get to the first of the wonderful Roman bridges and onto an ancient road. I’m sure it was flat when built but if has degraded somewhat over the years. It gradually gets steeper and more degraded until you are mostly scrambling over small rocks. Really pleased to see the top. From there it was mostly downhill through pine forests and then meadows as you get nearer to Segovia. Fortunately, until the last 7kms or so it was primarily in the shade. Staying at Hostal Don Jaime I y II which is right in the centre and near to the Camino. Off to AirBnB at Nieva tomorrow, about 35kms but it should be less hilly. Anyone stopped in Villeguillo recently? Is there somewhere to eat?

 

[Laurie Sanantone]

Mike, here is my May photo of the opening/closing times at the Villeguillo Centro Social. Of course it could have changed since then. This might be the phone number: 34 645 76 7128.

 

[MikeJS]

Segovia to Nieva 38km. Left at 0730 and artist 1530. I ate at Munoz 2 last night that is just 50m up the road from the Hostal. Not as expensive as the main tourist places down the road. I also introduced the waiter called Cesar to the SayHi app. Quite intense thunderstorms last night but all dry again by morning. I could see rain in the distance north of me but it kept moving away. In fact stayed dry until I arrived at the AirBnB place when we got a little bit of rain. Lovely simple walk today that started with a bit of a surprise as I heard the roar of modern day dragons behind me as hot air balloons started lifting off apparently from within the city. Track was well marked and it stayed partly cloudy most of the way which was a relief given the flat stretches that this stage involves. That said there were a few pine forests being harvested and this was the first time I have noticed mistletoe on pine trees. No services on the way but the bar in SMlRdN was open so I stopped for a beer and a snack. There is a local store as well but it was closed. Quite surprisingly there was a Pharmacy open in Nieva. The place I am staying is convenient for me as I wanted somewhere beyond SMlRdN. If is a bit hippy dippy with composting toiles and rustic huts but it has the key requirements and they offer a meal. However, expensive at 40 euros. I’ve stayed in much better albergues. Not sure about tomorrow yet. Coca is too close at 20km. Alcazaren is OK at 45kns if the weather is ok. Other alternative is Villeguillo but not sure of the services there. I will decide on the way - may the Camino provide.

 

[David Tallan]

Segovia to Nieva 38km. ... Lovely simple walk today that started with a bit of a surprise as I heard the roar of modern day dragons behind me as hot air balloons started lifting off apparently from within the city.

I saw the same as I headed into the city (although I wasn't close enough to hear it).

 

[VNwalking]

Buen camino, @MikeJS !
I'm enjoying your posts a lot.

 

[MikeJS]

Nueva to Villeguillo 28kms. Lovely clear morning again and a very well marked way. Mostly through pine forests which gave plenty of shade. However, the ground is sand so not the best of surfaces for long walks. Go to Coca at 1130 and had a choice of at least 3 bars for coffee. Then carried on towards Villeguillo. Still undecided whether to stop there of not. However, when I arrived the Bar Social was open (it closes 1600 to 1900) and they confirmed they would do food that night. The albergue key holder’s address is on the bar door. Had a small beer and a snack while checking the rain radar. I felt plenty strong enough to walk the additional 17kms and it looked like the rain would stay away for a couple of hours. I set off towards Alcazaren but it started to rain lightly after 20 mins. Left me in a quandary. Turn back or go on? I turned back as I new there was a good albergue there with a place to eat and I did not want to have to walk another 17km in the rain. Plus it’s a bit early for 40km plus day. The albergue here is very pleasant. Simple but well maintained with a fridge and microwave. Also the bar social was very welcoming. Probably off to Puente Duero tomorrow. No Wi-Fi here so not uploading photos- nothing special in any case.

 

[MikeJS]

Mike, here is my May photo of the opening/closing times at the Villeguillo Centro Social. Of course it could have changed since then. This might be the phone number: 34 645 76 7128.

Thank you. Similar now, closed 1600 to 1900 Wednesday to sun. I’m here now and the bar seems great as is the albergue.

 

[MikeJS]

Villeguillo to Puete Duero 43kms
The meal at bar social was very average last night. Just the equivalent of sausage egg and chips. Disappointingly average. Lovely walk today mostly overcast then a short spell of rain then sunshine. At least the rain damped down the sand on the track. As lovely as the pine forests are I have seen enough of them. Got to Acazaren at 1030 and felt a little tired already. However, after a large coffee and half a metre of tostadas with olive oil, garlic, tomatoes and ham I was ready for the next section. This was at Bar Hogar(?) and for only 5 euros. The albergue at PD is a lovely place and Sarah is a great host. Seems all the restaurants have gone on their holidays at the same time! So she is cooking. Unfortunately, it’s another tortilla. However, as home cooked I have my fingers crossed. Probably off to Castromonte tomorrow. No Wi-Fi again so no pictures- nothing special to see in any case.

 

[jsalt]

Really enjoying your posts - thanks for updating each day. Hoping to go back again next year (maybe).
I loved the albergue in Castromonte.



And this is where it all happens (the bar, meals . . . )

 

[Laurie Sanantone]

Jill, did the bar in the photo provide a meal for you? When I was there this spring, they offered only bread and muffins.

 

[peregrina2000]

Things change, people die, but the story of the bar owner in Castromonte is a classic. I was lucky enough to meet him and his wife. And they cooked me a meal!

 

[Laurie Sanantone]

I remember this lovely story, Laurie. Sad to say, it seems Braulio’s bar has closed. The only bar I could find in town was the one in Jill’s photo.

 

[DTCamino]

Villeguillo to Puete Duero 43kms
The meal at bar social was very average last night. Just the equivalent of sausage egg and chips. Disappointingly average. Lovely walk today mostly overcast then a short spell of rain then sunshine. At least the rain damped down the sand on the track. As lovely as the pine forests are I have seen enough of them. Got to Acazaren at 1030 and felt a little tired already. However, after a large coffee and half a metre of tostadas with olive oil, garlic, tomatoes and ham I was ready for the next section. This was at Bar Hogar(?) and for only 5 euros. The albergue at PD is a lovely place and Sarah is a great host. Seems all the restaurants have gone on their holidays at the same time! So she is cooking. Unfortunately, it’s another tortilla. However, as home cooked I have my fingers crossed. Probably off to Castromonte tomorrow. No Wi-Fi again so no pictures- nothing special to see in any case.

I see you doing some 40k+ days. Was that by design, due to accommodation issues, or just walking longer stretches if your legs feel good that day?
I don’t mind a long stretch like that if I have to, but 24-30k days tend to be my favorite.

 

[jsalt]

Jill, did the bar in the photo provide a meal for you? When I was there this spring, they offered only bread and muffins.

Yes, they did basic meals in the evening. It was the only place open. This was on 1 April 2018, so it may all be different now. It was very lively - the social club that evening.

 

[peregrina2000]

I see you doing some 40k+ days. Was that by design, due to accommodation issues, or just walking longer stretches if your legs feel good that day?
I don’t mind a long stretch like that if I have to, but 24-30k days tend to be my favorite.

I’m not @MikeJS but I know his habits well enough to report that he likes these long days. Lots of people walk the Madrid at typical stages in the 20s-low 30s, so don’t worry!

 

[MikeJS]

I see you doing some 40k+ days. Was that by design, due to accommodation issues, or just walking longer stretches if your legs feel good that day?
I don’t mind a long stretch like that if I have to, but 24-30k days tend to be my favorite.

It is simply my preference. There are other options. If I did shorter sections I would not know what to do with all the spare time! My natural walking pace is about 5kms per hour.

 

[MikeJS]

Really enjoying your posts - thanks for updating each day. Hoping to go back again next year (maybe).
I loved the albergue in Castromonte.

View attachment 156644

And this is where it all happens (the bar, meals . . . )

View attachment 156645

Yes the albergue is great. Unfortunately the bar says no meals now (or at least today).

 

[MikeJS]

Puente Douro to Castelmonte. 37kms



A tougher day than the distance would lead me to expect. In part because there are a few sneaky steep but short hills but also because I picked up a cold on fri which has reduced my energy levels. On top of that I pulled a lower back muscle on sun morning! OK when I am walking but the transition with the rucksack is awkward. All that said it was a nice hike with plenty of small places to break up the day. Picked up some bread and cheese in a very small shop in Cigunuela and had a coffee somewhere I can’t remember! Now waiting outside the albergue. There are numbers call on the door at it states it’s open from 0900 to 2200. They came within 10 minutes of my call. Great albergue lots of space and a washing machine. Kitchen has great facilities which is useful as the one bar seems not to do any food. Fortunately I always bring something as there was little open from my start to here. I know that previous posters (David Taland??) have said there were 2 bars but the lady opening the albergue insists now there is only 1. And there is only one on their map. Off to Cuenca de Campos tomorrow - or Tamariz. Let’s see.

 

[David Tallan]

I know that previous posters (David Taland??) have said there were 2 bars but the lady opening the albergue insists now there is only 1.

I said there were two bars in Peñaflor. I didn't stay in Castelmonte. Of the two bars in Peñaflor, only one served meals.

 

[MikeJS]

I said there were two bars in Peñaflor. I didn't stay in Castelmonte. Of the two bars in Peñaflor, only one served meals.

Aaah. Sorry, I must have made a mistake in my notes!

 

[MikeJS]

Castelmonte to Cuenca de Campos 38km



Lovely clear sky to start and a little chilly. Easy route to Median di Rioseco and got there about 1000. A clearly beautiful town but at the time not a lot already open. Popped into a couple of place but they only had sweet things to eat so carried on through the town and just before the start of the canal there is every peregrinos saviour, Dia supermarket! Topped up my general supplies and bought a couple of savoury treats. Eat this in the little park at the head of the canal. Seems strange to me they did not have a cafe there. Then followed the lovely track alongside the canal towards Tamariz. Again, at the end of the end of the canal theirs is an old and very dilapidated mill building. Probably a factory in its time. 5 storeys high and mostly surrounded by water. Now just a wreck and nothing there. Seems a real pity as in many other countries it would be a destination with bars and boat. Carried on to Tamariz and as it was only 1300 walked on again. Planned to stop in Cuenca and hoping the Tata was open. It was! Got there at 1500 and they stopped serving food at 1600 so opted to stay there as well. Did not think I could be certain of getting into the albergue and wash and changed in time! Had a fantastic meal. Room was 25 euros and the meal was 17 euros including a very good bottle of rose and second helpings of the main course! They also served vegetables! Having a short stroll atm to walk off lunch! Unfortunately, there seems to be nowhere open here this evening! Maybe Sahagún tomorrow? Is tomorrow really my last day on the Camino Madrid? Any recommendations for the place to stay? I have Wi-Fi again so there are photos.

 

[jsalt]

I like the municipal albergue in Sahagun. It has compartmental bunk beds, and you get a code for access in the evening. Excellent value and great location.

 

[MikeJS]

Cuenca de Campos to Sahagún 40kms



A simple walk today that was unremarkable, mostly flat and well marked. Villon was the first stop as there was a bar open before 0900. I grabbed a coffee and walked on. There are some quite remarkable buildings in the town and it makes you wonder how they stay up. I say first stop, but there was nothing else to stop for on the way. I had a satsuma and some cured ham to eat on the way so was fine. I am staying at Hostal Escarcha (listed on Gronze). Quite a few other places I contacted today were full. Welcome to the Frances. Walked into the main square and there are about 4 bars all with peregrinos outside. I saw 4 in total on the Madrid. This is likely to be my penultimate ‘live’ post as I will be on the Frances for a bit, then the Salvador and then Olvidado. I’ll post a very short summary after this.

 

[MikeJS]

Camino Madrid Summary

I arrived in Madrid on Monday 11 September 23 and got to Sahagún on Wednesday 20 September. Overall, the Madrid is very well signed and extremely well supported with albergues. In fact almost too many as the few perigrenos there are are spread across lots of small place to stay. Hence there are often few, if any services available in many places. It is important to look ahead to see what may be available and top up your supplies when ever you can. Even these opportunities are limited. I saw 4 other peregrinos on my Camino. A Hungarian man walking south. A Dutch man and a Canadian lady in the hippie place in Nieva and a Spanish man In Castromonte. To flourish, it needs more walkers. But you will not get significantly more until the services improve. Not sure how I feel about this particular Camino at the moment. The Olvidado is still my all time favourite. After that I liked the Salvador/Primitivo combination and the Invierno comes close. I like the Madrid for its lack of crowds but aside from a few highlights such as the climb over to Segovia there is little that stands out - maybe I have done 1 too many.

 

[jsalt]

After walking the Madrid with 2 other forum members in 2018, I then intended to walk from Sahagun to Leon, and then start the Salvador. The sheer numbers of peregrinos in Sahagun frightened the living daylights out of me. So instead I took the first train to Leon, and commenced the Salvador the next day. Really enjoyed that one too.