LIVE from the Camino Camino Madrid - Starting September 2023

[DTCamino]

Started yesterday in Madrid and walked to Tres Cantos. I get now why people say take the train to Tres Cantos and start there. Although I like Madrid a lot, walking so many miles on concrete and then still having to walk along the freeway for hours wasn’t such a great experience. I got my credential in Madrid the night before, and had dinner with friends which was nice, however the 10miles I walked in Madrid the night before and those miles on the concrete the next morning took their toll. I limped slowly into Tres Cantos yesterday, got groceries, McDonald’s (I was too sore to walk further for food) and went to sleep. The Ramada had comfortable beds at least!

 

[DTCamino]

Forgot to show the inside of the credential

 

[DTCamino]

Tres Cantos to Manzanares el Real today. Much nicer walk although a lot of up and down and some of it a little sketchy thanks to the rain damage. In Colmenar Viejo I met a Spanish peregrina and over coffee she told me there were 3 other peregrinos in the albergue last night. She and I walked the rest of the way, and despite my poor Spanish we had an enjoyable walk. All 5 of us ended up at the same place in Manzanares called La Pedriza, the other 3 came in about 2 hrs after I checked in. La Pedriza was crazy busy, it seemed like all the locals came for lunch on the patio at the same time we arrived. Laundry and dinner to follow and supposedly the castle in the morning on the way to Cercedilla

Lights of Tres Cantos this morning

One of the many “bridges” to cross

Unofficial “bridge dance” -a shout out to a purple clad Camino Blogger

Colmenar Viejo

Spanish Peregrina leading the way

Manzanares in the distance

 

[Larry OHeron]

Walked the Camino Madrid in 2022 with my partner. We also started in Madrid, and although very urban, we did enjoy the walk out of the city. Lots of countryside and farmland ahead of you. Enjoy the Sierras for the decline and the descent. We chose not to walk all the way to Segovia and stop short in a town although I don't remember the name of it. I do remember that everything was closed in that small town.

 

[AnaRosario]

Started yesterday in Madrid and walked to Tres Cantos. I get now why people say take the train to Tres Cantos and start there. Although I like Madrid a lot, walking so many miles on concrete and then still having to walk along the freeway for hours wasn’t such a great experience. I got my credential in Madrid the night before, and had dinner with friends which was nice, however the 10miles I walked in Madrid the night before and those miles on the concrete the next morning took their toll. I limped slowly into Tres Cantos yesterday, got groceries, McDonald’s (I was too sore to walk further for food) and went to sleep. The Ramada had comfortable beds at least!

I know right!!!! I got lost trying to get out of tres cantos

 

[DTCamino]

Manzanares el Real to Cercedilla
Started again just before sunset and walked by the Castilo Vieja. It was a beautiful walk around the outskirts of the Sierra de Guadarrama Parque this morning. Had breakfast in Mataelpino and then a beverage and snack in Navaverrada. There is some issues with the Buen Camino app map going through Navacerrada towards the end and I sorted out the issues with the Buen Camino map after the Restaurante La Fonda outside Navacerrada. (See original Camino Madrid post from David with the explanation). After that straight to Cercedilla where the albergue en el Politedeportivo is currently closed. I had reservations at Hostel El Aribel for the night so the closure wasn’t an issue. A beautiful if short day of walking with nearly 2000ft in total elevation gain.

The old castle


City lights of Manzanares


The countryside


Mataelpino town square


Mountains on both sides


The turn after La Fonda

 

[David Tallan]

I'm glad it was more straightforward for you than for me!

 

[DoughnutANZ]

I had a KML file that I referred to when I was unsure. In general I didn't have any problems. I think that the KML file came from Ray y Rosa originally.

At one point I may have walked a slightly longer route but both routes had arrows and so I was happy with the choice that I made.

I never considered myself "lost".

 

[Laurie Sanantone]

I emailed the folks at Buen Camino and received a reply this morning:
“Thank you very much for your extensive information. I will return to this point to review it. However, I am going to change it now in the track, so that subsequent downloads of the app already have the corrected track.”

 

[C clearly]

A beautiful if short day of walking with nearly 2000ft in total elevation gain.

Is this elevation gain correct? I am looking at the profile on Gronze and don't see how it could be so much.

 

[DoughnutANZ]

Is this elevation gain correct? I am looking at the profile on Gronze and don't see how it could be so much.

Perhaps he is referring to cumulative elevation gain rather than the difference between the start elevation and the highest elevation.

 

[DTCamino]

Alltrails is pretty accurate and as you can see I forgot to start it immediately after leaving the hotel and forgot to restart it after a break, so elevation and distance should be a little higher than what’s shown.

 

[DTCamino]

Perhaps he is referring to cumulative elevation gain rather than the difference between the start elevation and the highest elevation.

That’s correct

 

[DTCamino]

Cercedilla to Segovia
Started early to get a jump on the climb while it’s cooler and was glad I did. The climb out of town until you hit the Roman road is smooth. That Roman section was something else. I wonder if before the torrential rains it was easier, but doing it in the dark with that elevation gain and poor footing was not enjoyable. I noticed an alternate route a runner was taking and if I had to do it again, I give it consideration. The rest is all downhill which is actually harder on me as the cartilage is torn in both my knees but the first part was lovely through the trees. The last part down into Segovia not as much.

The “easy” part of the Roman road

The climb stats


I think you could walk the Cordel de la Fuenfria and avoid the rocky Roman ascent

Signage on top


Beautiful forest road


Natural spring


Is this the ruins of one of Phillip II hunting lodges?

Segovia

 

[DTCamino]

Segovia to Santa Maria Real de la Nieva
Up early again as it’s another long day. I’m finding the Buen Camino app to be annoying as it wanted me to climb a 40 foot wall today to get out of the city. I see how the two YouTube Camino bloggers kept getting lost because if you were to follow the app strictly it asks you to go places that are not possible. Truly the best way is the fallback of following the flechas(arrows). Sometimes even then it isn’t the quickest or most comfortable route but I’m sure most peregrinos are used to that. Clearly the Frances has spoiled me. Speaking of being spoiled another 30+ kilometer day with no bars open or other services. I’m beginning to miss the Frances and my daily(multiple times) cafe con leche. It’s a pretty walk and I love the pine tree groves and softness of the sand.

Leaving Segovia


Segovia in the dark


One of many places where the arrows go one way and the App another


Valseca is official(y) closed for coffee


Small chapel (Se vende)


Prerequisite balloon shot


Collecting pine resin for medications et al


Another deviation (I eventually stopped there were so many)


Stats for the day


Well earned snack in Santa Maria

 

[DTCamino]

Segovia to Santa Maria Real de la Nieva
Up early again as it’s another long day. I’m finding the Buen Camino app to be dry as it wanted me to climb a 40 foot wall today to get out of the city. I see how the two YouTube Camino bloggers kept getting lost because if you were to follow the app strictly it asks you to go places that are not possible. Truly the best way is the fallback of following the flechas(arrows). Sometimes even then it isn’t the quickest or most comfortable route but I’m sure most peregrinos are used to that. Clearly the Frances has spoiled me. Speaking of being spoiled another 30+ kilometer day with no bars open or other services. I’m beginning to miss the Frances and my daily(multiple times) cafe con leche. It’s a pretty walk and I love the pine tree groves and softness of the sand.

Leaving Segovia
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Segovia in the dark
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One of many places where the arrows go one way and the App another
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Valseca is official(y) closed for coffee
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Small chapel (Se vende)
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Prerequisite balloon shot
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Collecting pine resin for medications et al
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Another deviation (I eventually stopped there were so many)
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Stats for the day
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Well earned snack in Santa Maria
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Dry was a typo, I meant annoying

 

[DTCamino]

Santa Maria Real de la Nieva to Coca

Short day so I left around 8am because breakfast was included in my room price. And what a room! A queen size bed, with private bath in a garden setting, with a wash machine and kitchen available if wanted. If you ever stay in Santa Maria I encourage you to contact Rincon Naïf directly for accommodation. It’s on a quiet side street and the owners were incredibly gracious. They put on a full breakfast spread for just me, and if you desire they will show you their huge art collection. It was probably the best night I’ve ever spent on the Camino. My two hour siesta overlooking the garden didn’t hurt either. Their website posts a higher price but when I contacted them directly it was only $40 euro. Lots and lots more pine groves today which means soft walking for my feet and knees. Finally a town was open on the way for coffee and breakfast and it was a good one. I had a nice visit in Coca before bedtime and I’m feeling much better about the Camino Madrid.

Breakfast for 1


This is the “extra” artwork they have in the breakfast room. They have multiple rooms for viewing or you can just sit in the gardens and relax


I snuck into the cloisters this morning


More pine trees and soft walking


Daily calendar already updates by another pilgrim. Extra sticks are behind the bench


If you look carefully in the distance the farmer is actually “shrink wrapping” his field. I’ve never seen that done before.


Nava de Asunción has there own local Banksy who paints these all over town. Great breakfast for $3 in town at the bar!


Entering Coca


Coca castle, interesting to walk around inside and see how they used to repel invaders


Coca bullring I assume. No bull here.

 

[David Tallan]

I hope you had better luck getting the albergue keys in Coca than we did!

 

[DTCamino]

Same problem unfortunately

I hope you had better luck getting the albergue keys in Coca than we did!

 

[DTCamino]

Coca to Alcazaren

Up later as it was a short day and again lots of walking through the pine trees, always good for my feet and knees. Also lots of shade! Made Alcazaren and three of the four Spanish pilgrims were already there, I ran into the 4th in Villeguillo, where we had coffee and walked the rest of the day together. The albergue in Alcazaren although decently designed was very small with 8 beds. Did laundry and went to dinner with the other peregrinos. One of the Spanish peregrinos and I had been talking earlier about our love of Spanish soup, and even though the bar wasn’t serving food, he talked them into making “Sopa de Ajo” a garlic soup with lots of goodies thrown in. A great way to end a day!

Torre de San Nicolas


Sunrise


Rolling countryside


More pine forests!


Sopa de Ajo!!

 

[DTCamino]

Alcazaren to Simancas

It was boiling hot in the Albergue all night, so out by 6am as I had just lain there and sweated most of the night.

The albergue never cooled off from the 86 degree day we had the day before. It was a full moon so it was possible to walk long before sunup without using a light. More pine forest walking which I like, I had to watch the arrows vs Buen Camino carefully or I’d end up road walking which I’m not a fan of. I got a private hotel in Simancas and after grocery shopping went to bed early as it had been another long, hot day.

This is by moonlight, no flash or other light source


Gentle walking


Sunrise


One of these things is not like the others. Can you pick out the americano?


We decided this pilgrim statue was me as I also carry a mochilla roja




Long day over

 

[DTCamino]

Simancas to Penaflor de Hornija
I went to Simancas rather than Puente Duero yesterday which in retrospect was a mistake. Due to the volume of peregrinos I thought I could get early to Penaflor de Hornija today and have all my clothes etc done beside anyone else arrived. Wrong- not only will they not let you in before 2pm in Penaflor, they don’t respond to texts or calls before then, both directly or in WhatsApp. I had considered walking to Castromonte, but couldn’t check the internet to confirm the albergue there either.
At 145pm the other pilgrims showed up and then shortly after the hospitalero responded and let us in.

On the good side I had a nice break in a bar for 2 hrs drinking Mahou 0.0, a non alcoholic beer that I like, and then the Fiesta of the Rosary started once church let out with a band that walked through the streets playing for 4 hrs. The local bar has a really good menu Del Dia, if you get a chance definitely stop here for food, they have a chef, who knows there way around a kitchen here!
I watched the grandfathers in the town drink many bottles of wine and conga dance after the parade through town. Later in the night the whole town met for dinner and were dancing in the streets until 10pm. Quite an experience!

Simancas at night


There are seven of the metal statues spread out on this segment of the Camino Madrid just like the ones on Alto de Perdon on the Frances


Starting to see a lot of windmills


By moonlight



Church in Wamba, I was here 2 hrs too early to get in. I’ll make an effort to see it next time


Camino marker and windmills


The climb up to Penaflor


The parade for the fiesta de Rosary. The man in the white shirt encouraged me to film it as it was “unico”


Great food here, if you order a meals there were some outstanding, and well prepared choices

 

[David Tallan]

I'm pretty sure Bar Hornija is where I ate, too. When I was there they sponsored a little local fiesta with a flamenco band in the square outside the bar.

 

[Levi]

I think it's a Party Town. When I was there a few years ago the whole town seemed to be on the beer. There was a bull running (not expressing my feelings about this) and the party was still going on when I left the next morning.

 

[DTCamino]

Penaflor de Hornija to Medina de Rioseco

Left in the dark with the 3 Spanish peregrinos and stopped at a small bakery/bar for coffee and muffins. Then went to Valverde de Campos where the bar was set up for the day but closed. A local saw us taking a break in front and brought us each a beer from his home, and refused payment. (The kindness of strangers) Then off to Medina de Rioseco for a very good lunch at Casa Manolo. The town has a quirky old section where the buildings hang over the street.

Tree in the dark


Sunrise and windmills


Turkish toilet in the bar in Castromonte


Castromonte church


Garden walk in Medina


Medina de Rioseco buildings

 

[DTCamino]

Medina de Rioseco to Villalon de Campos

Peaceful walk along the canal this morning, I didn’t have any problems with mosquitoes ironically until I left the canal a few miles behind. Went through Tamariz de Campos, nothing was open, but “La Tata” restaurant was open in Cuenca for a snack, however the albergue there was shut for 2 days for reasons unknown. Then across fields with sunflowers and clear blue skies to Villalon

Canal path with bridge


Water was controlled through here but I’m not clear if it was to power something or for loading/unloading the barges


Sunflowers


Ruins in Tamariz de Campos


Villalon in the distance

 

[DTCamino]

Villalon to Santervas de Campo

I was planning to walk to Sahagun today but knee was too swollen for that kind of mileage so I did a short day. Very nice albergue connected to the Ponce de Leon museum. There is a bar about 25 yards from the albergue to the left as you exit. You’d never know it was there unless you asked and we were treated very well there. No food so bring your own to cook in the albergue. The hospitalero from Villalon was nice enough to offer to drive our groceries to Santervas so we bought a feast in Villalon and he stayed to share it with us before heading back to Villalon. A pretty great day including a tour of the town and the Ponce de Leon museum.

Villalon in the distance


Making adobe?


Santervas and pilgrims


A donkey named “Hote” in Santervas


Fields of Santervas, alfalfa is a big part of local economy


Santervas church

 

[DTCamino]

Santervas to Sahagun final day

Up early again as I have a train to catch in Sahagun back to Madrid. Had coffee and treats in Grajal de Campos then on to Sahagun. I picked up my Camino de Madrid certificate at the TI/Cluny Albergue. I had a celebratory drink with the other peregrinos, before they walked on to Calzada de Coto as it was madness in Sahagun with all the peregrinos roaming the streets. A beautiful two week Camino even if a little short on that morning cafe con leche!

Albergue/Ponce de Leon museum


Sunrise on the Meseta


Grajal de Campos castle


Sahagun in the distance


Completion certificate

 

[Anniesantiago]

Segovia to Santa Maria Real de la Nieva


Well earned snack in Santa Maria
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Where did you sleep in Santa Maria? I notice the nice little albergue is closed now?

 

[DTCamino]

Rincon Naif, probably the highlight of all the places I stayed. Great hospitality and lovely room over the garden. Link is below, I booked direct. Breakfast was included, however dinner was not, but there’s a nice restaurant nearby and I enjoyed dinner at the nearby bar.

https://www.rinconnaif.com/

 

[David Tallan]

Where did you sleep in Santa Maria? I notice the nice little albergue is closed now?

I stayed at Hostal-Restaurante Avanto (private room). Relatively inexpensive at the time but probably not as nice as Rincon Naif.

 

[DTCamino]

I stayed at Hostal-Restaurante Avanto (private room). Relatively inexpensive at the time but probably not as nice as Rincon Naif.

I was originally going to stay at the Avanto but Rincon Naif is in town whereas the Avanto is outside of town. They only charged me $40 euro so not too expensive considering how nice it was.

 

[DoughnutANZ]

I stayed at Hostal-Restaurante Avanto (private room). Relatively inexpensive at the time but probably not as nice as Rincon Naif.

I followed the road from Pinilla Ambroz rather than the trail as I had an injury that day. I called into Hostal-Restaurante Avanto for a coffee and bumped into a fellow pilgrim that I had first met in Cercedilla who suggested sharing a room and splitting the cost and so I also ended up staying there.

It was an okay place to stay, could do with a refurbishment but was value for money.

 

[JWB]

Last April 2023 I also stayed at Rincon Naief. Booked directly via Whatspp. Superbe room and breakfast.

 

[DoughnutANZ]

I followed the road from Pinilla Ambroz rather than the trail as I had an injury that day. I called into Hostal-Restaurante Avanto for a coffee and bumped into a fellow pilgrim that I had first met in Cercedilla who suggested sharing a room and splitting the cost and so I also ended up staying there.

It was an okay place to stay, could do with a refurbishment but was value for money.

Something I just remembered.

The fellow pilgrim had already enquired about a room before I arrived and so he went back after meeting up with me and requested a shared room. His Spanish was much better than mine. I was standing close by as he spoke with the person responsible for the accommodation and I noticed that he got a little upset with something that that person said.

I didn't understand the conversation myself and when I asked him about it he was reluctant to say what had upset him. Eventually he told me that the host had made a disparaging comment about us sharing a room with two single beds, insinuating that we were homosexual.

This isn't something that particularly bothers me but it is probably worth noting that the person who we dealt with may well be discriminatory although it may also have been that the person was disappointed that they lost a potential sale of a second room.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

We stayed at Hostel Restaurant Avanto and our room was quite nice. It was $50 last October and I thought the cost quite reasonable, although the location wasn't great. The dinner I ordered was very good, as well. Not the most modern of hostel/hotels, but very clean. On the Madrid Way, options are often limited and I appreciated this stop and not needing to walk on farther as it was a day we were winging it.