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Camino Primitivo

Pancho

Peregrino 2018
Past OR future Camino
2018
Hola All, I will be starting my second Camino ,Primitivo this time,September 13. Taking a train from Barcelona to Grado beginning there. Peregrinos who have done or will be doing this Camino please, I would appreciate suggestions or thoughts. Buen Camino!
 
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MCathleen

New Member
Past OR future Camino
2017
I walked the del Norte, switching over the Primitivo in Sept/Oct 2017. So it that is about the same time of year that you are going. It is good you are starting at Grado in September, because many locals go on holiday in October and I found bars and albergues closed. So it is not a bad idea to carry a stash of food, just in case.

I wrote daily blogs about my experience and you can read them here:
https://cathleensodyssey.com/camino-de-santiago/
If you just want to read about the Primitivo, start at Day 21.

A wonderful thing about the Primitivo and doing it in the fall is the solitude you get. Some days I barely saw a soul all day. Lots of time to think and contemplate. Some nights there was only one other person in the albergue. SO, it was a shocker when I arrive in Melide (joining the Frances) and found myself in a 160-bed albergue!

BODENAYA: Don't miss a chance to stay with David at Albergue Bodenaya for a real Camino treat!

RE Hospitales Route: I carried my own pack all the way, but I WAS 63 years old and walking solo, so I was a bit concerned about the Hospitales Route. (One young person said to me incredulously before I left the del Norte, "YOU'RE going to walk the Primitivo???" (I beg your pardon...LOL!!!)) But rumors of its difficulty had me a bit worried, so I had my bag carried around by bag transport for just that one day. It was probably a good thing. Actually the Hospitales is not really technically difficult at all. And there are some beautiful rolling strolls for part of it. BUT, it is a long etapa with no albergues or cafes. And, the hardest part for me was the cold wind on one of the ridges. If I had carried my pack, I am sure I would have been buffeted about quite a bit. As you will see in the post about it, I was very glad I had taken that path rather than the offered alternative. My experience of the Hospitales is described in this post: https://cathleensodyssey.com/camino-de-santiago-primitivo-days-26-27/

I am happy to answer any questions.
 
Past OR future Camino
2022_ViadelaPlata_Sanabres_hopefully
Hi Pancho. Primitivo is a wonderful choice. I’ve walked it twice. But I think you already have a enough information from the links above.
You are starting in Grado so perhaps your time is limited or you already know Oviedo.
If not, if your program allows you to spend a day or an afternoon in Oviedo i don’t think you will be disappointed. So perhaps overnight in Oviedo and take an early morning train or bus to Grado.
I’ve started both Primitivos from Oviedo and finished the Salvador there. I have many ‘favourite’ Spanish towns - Oviedo is right up there. Buen Camino.
 

MCathleen

New Member
Past OR future Camino
2017
Hi Pancho. Primitivo is a wonderful choice. I’ve walked it twice. But I think you already have a enough information from the links above.
You are starting in Grado so perhaps your time is limited or you already know Oviedo.
If not, if your program allows you to spend a day or an afternoon in Oviedo i don’t think you will be disappointed. So perhaps overnight in Oviedo and take an early morning train or bus to Grado.
I’ve started both Primitivos from Oviedo and finished the Salvador there. I have many ‘favourite’ Spanish towns - Oviedo is right up there. Buen Camino.
Yes! I also love Oviedo and took a couple rest days there. A city full of public art!
 

brian560

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
CF, VdlP 2016, Port. Central, Norte , Port. Coastal (2018).San Salvador and Primitivo (2019)
Hi Pancho. Primitivo is a wonderful choice. I’ve walked it twice. But I think you already have a enough information from the links above.
You are starting in Grado so perhaps your time is limited or you already know Oviedo.
If not, if your program allows you to spend a day or an afternoon in Oviedo i don’t think you will be disappointed. So perhaps overnight in Oviedo and take an early morning train or bus to Grado.
I’ve started both Primitivos from Oviedo and finished the Salvador there. I have many ‘favourite’ Spanish towns - Oviedo is right up there. Buen Camino.
The Menu del Dia's in Oviedo are good too.
 

Felizald

New Member
Past OR future Camino
Primitivo
I walked the del Norte, switching over the Primitivo in Sept/Oct 2017. So it that is about the same time of year that you are going. It is good you are starting at Grado in September, because many locals go on holiday in October and I found bars and albergues closed. So it is not a bad idea to carry a stash of food, just in case.

I wrote daily blogs about my experience and you can read them here:
https://cathleensodyssey.com/camino-de-santiago/
If you just want to read about the Primitivo, start at Day 21.

A wonderful thing about the Primitivo and doing it in the fall is the solitude you get. Some days I barely saw a soul all day. Lots of time to think and contemplate. Some nights there was only one other person in the albergue. SO, it was a shocker when I arrive in Melide (joining the Frances) and found myself in a 160-bed albergue!

BODENAYA: Don't miss a chance to stay with David at Albergue Bodenaya for a real Camino treat!

RE Hospitales Route: I carried my own pack all the way, but I WAS 63 years old and walking solo, so I was a bit concerned about the Hospitales Route. (One young person said to me incredulously before I left the del Norte, "YOU'RE going to walk the Primitivo???" (I beg your pardon...LOL!!!)) But rumors of its difficulty had me a bit worried, so I had my bag carried around by bag transport for just that one day. It was probably a good thing. Actually the Hospitales is not really technically difficult at all. And there are some beautiful rolling strolls for part of it. BUT, it is a long etapa with no albergues or cafes. And, the hardest part for me was the cold wind on one of the ridges. If I had carried my pack, I am sure I would have been buffeted about quite a bit. As you will see in the post about it, I was very glad I had taken that path rather than the offered alternative. My experience of the Hospitales is described in this post: https://cathleensodyssey.com/camino-de-santiago-primitivo-days-26-27/

I am happy to answer any questions.
The albergue in Bodenaya is a real treat and glimpse of the old days experience. Worth staying overnight with David. I stayed there in August 2019 (last time I went on holidays, dear me!). Somebody I met the night before in San Juan de Villapañada (a really nice albergue to stay at, for another communal experience, just 5K passing Grado).
 
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rscohen

New Member
Past OR future Camino
Frances from Le Puy-en-Velay ('10-12) from Montgenevre '14-15) from Vezelay ('18), from Seville 2020
Don't miss Domingo's albergue. It's about 2 km off trail, but the best albergue I experienced on the Primitivo. About one long day after Oviedo. Highly recommended by a Spanish guidebook I used. He often cooks for his guests. I was lucky to meet him.
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
San Juan de Villapanada (Domingo’s place) is closed. Bodenaya is open but takes in only a handful because of Covid. And Grado is open snd has stopped taking reservations.

There are reports of bed crunches so reserving ahead might make sense this September.
 

Felizald

New Member
Past OR future Camino
Primitivo
San Juan de Villapanada (Domingo’s place) is closed. Bodenaya is open but takes in only a handful because of Covid. And Grado is open snd has stopped taking reservations.

There are reports of bed crunches so reserving ahead might make sense this September.
Is San Juan permanently closed? I believe Domingo was retired and running the albergue on a volunteer basis, if I recall correctly.
 
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Pancho

Peregrino 2018
Past OR future Camino
2018
I walked the del Norte, switching over the Primitivo in Sept/Oct 2017. So it that is about the same time of year that you are going. It is good you are starting at Grado in September, because many locals go on holiday in October and I found bars and albergues closed. So it is not a bad idea to carry a stash of food, just in case.

I wrote daily blogs about my experience and you can read them here:
https://cathleensodyssey.com/camino-de-santiago/
If you just want to read about the Primitivo, start at Day 21.

A wonderful thing about the Primitivo and doing it in the fall is the solitude you get. Some days I barely saw a soul all day. Lots of time to think and contemplate. Some nights there was only one other person in the albergue. SO, it was a shocker when I arrive in Melide (joining the Frances) and found myself in a 160-bed albergue!

BODENAYA: Don't miss a chance to stay with David at Albergue Bodenaya for a real Camino treat!

RE Hospitales Route: I carried my own pack all the way, but I WAS 63 years old and walking solo, so I was a bit concerned about the Hospitales Route. (One young person said to me incredulously before I left the del Norte, "YOU'RE going to walk the Primitivo???" (I beg your pardon...LOL!!!)) But rumors of its difficulty had me a bit worried, so I had my bag carried around by bag transport for just that one day. It was probably a good thing. Actually the Hospitales is not really technically difficult at all. And there are some beautiful rolling strolls for part of it. BUT, it is a long etapa with no albergues or cafes. And, the hardest part for me was the cold wind on one of the ridges. If I had carried my pack, I am sure I would have been buffeted about quite a bit. As you will see in the post about it, I was very glad I had taken that path rather than the offered alternative. My experience of the Hospitales is described in this post: https://cathleensodyssey.com/camino-de-santiago-primitivo-days-26-27/

I am happy to answer any questions.
Thank You so much! I sat and compared your Hospitales Camino with my guide book. I could sense the invigorating experience.
 

Pancho

Peregrino 2018
Past OR future Camino
2018
I walked the del Norte, switching over the Primitivo in Sept/Oct 2017. So it that is about the same time of year that you are going. It is good you are starting at Grado in September, because many locals go on holiday in October and I found bars and albergues closed. So it is not a bad idea to carry a stash of food, just in case.

I wrote daily blogs about my experience and you can read them here:
https://cathleensodyssey.com/camino-de-santiago/
If you just want to read about the Primitivo, start at Day 21.

A wonderful thing about the Primitivo and doing it in the fall is the solitude you get. Some days I barely saw a soul all day. Lots of time to think and contemplate. Some nights there was only one other person in the albergue. SO, it was a shocker when I arrive in Melide (joining the Frances) and found myself in a 160-bed albergue!

BODENAYA: Don't miss a chance to stay with David at Albergue Bodenaya for a real Camino treat!

RE Hospitales Route: I carried my own pack all the way, but I WAS 63 years old and walking solo, so I was a bit concerned about the Hospitales Route. (One young person said to me incredulously before I left the del Norte, "YOU'RE going to walk the Primitivo???" (I beg your pardon...LOL!!!)) But rumors of its difficulty had me a bit worried, so I had my bag carried around by bag transport for just that one day. It was probably a good thing. Actually the Hospitales is not really technically difficult at all. And there are some beautiful rolling strolls for part of it. BUT, it is a long etapa with no albergues or cafes. And, the hardest part for me was the cold wind on one of the ridges. If I had carried my pack, I am sure I would have been buffeted about quite a bit. As you will see in the post about it, I was very glad I had taken that path rather than the offered alternative. My experience of the Hospitales is described in this post: https://cathleensodyssey.com/camino-de-santiago-primitivo-days-26-27/

I am happy to answer any questions.
Hola, question, did you start the Hospitales from Campiello or Borres ?! Which location were you able to send your pack ahead to Berducedo?
 

MCathleen

New Member
Past OR future Camino
2017
Hola, question, did you start the Hospitales from Campiello or Borres ?! Which location were you able to send your pack ahead to Berducedo?
Campiello. I stayed in Hostal Casa Ricardo and the host gave me a tag and arranged for the pickup. But I had to know which Albergue I was going to stay in at Burdecedo. When I arrived, there was my little pack waiting for me! There are only 2 or 3 albergues there. I stayed in Hostal Camino Primitivo in Burdecedo.. So wherever you stay, your host can probably arrange the transport.
 

Pancho

Peregrino 2018
Past OR future Camino
2018
Campiello. I stayed in Hostal Casa Ricardo and the host gave me a tag and arranged for the pickup. But I had to know which Albergue I was going to stay in at Burdecedo. When I arrived, there was my little pack waiting for me! There are only 2 or 3 albergues there. I stayed in Hostal Camino Primitivo in Burdecedo.. So wherever you stay, your host can probably arrange the transport.
Thank You
 
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Felizald

New Member
Past OR future Camino
Primitivo
I stayed in Borras in 2019 and it's highly UNRECOMMENDABLE. Also for sending your rucksack better option is Campielo and the options for a hearty lunch/dinner when you arrive are great.
 

Pancho

Peregrino 2018
Past OR future Camino
2018
I stayed in Borras in 2019 and it's highly UNRECOMMENDABLE. Also for sending your rucksack better option is Campielo and the options for a hearty lunch/dinner when you arrive are great.
Another peregrino suggested albergue samblismo for a stay.
 

Pancho

Peregrino 2018
Past OR future Camino
2018
I might take your advice, campiello to berducedo 27km. I’m taking the hospitales route.
 

Felizald

New Member
Past OR future Camino
Primitivo
Another peregrino suggested albergue samblismo for a stay.
Yes. It's a better start for the Hospitales route. Much shorter than starting from Campielo. I couldn't get a bed at Samblismo. But it's just the one albergue. Not sure if Correos picks up you rucksack from there. I carried mine all the way so I am not sure if Correos has pick ups at every albergue.
 
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